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Old 03-07-2012, 11:27 AM   #31
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:34 PM   #32
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I got a quote from Fonse Performance. To have the block cleaned bored and honed, cam bearings Removed and replaced, valve job, pistons pushed onto the rods. Crank resurfaced, rods checked for roundness, remove and replace oil plugs, and Tins cleaned, all for $950. Does this sound reasonable to you guys?

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Old 03-07-2012, 03:58 PM   #33
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Also said they would check the block and head for cracks
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Old 03-07-2012, 05:00 PM   #34
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That's about right tell em Dave Wilson sent ya I can tell you they'll do good work.
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Old 03-08-2012, 07:38 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperRob View Post
I got a quote from Fonse Performance. To have the block cleaned bored and honed, cam bearings Removed and replaced, valve job, pistons pushed onto the rods. Crank resurfaced, rods checked for roundness, remove and replace oil plugs, and Tins cleaned, all for $950. Does this sound reasonable to you guys?

Yeah that sounds about right, does that include reassemble?
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:18 AM   #36
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There should be a way to flag accounts of members who make these sorts of statements:

Quote:
Originally Posted by chalikman
So i got pissed off bc i didnt know what my jeep motor made so i took it to my buddys speed shop today and after puting it in the truck and driving it all the way there and running it tests proved that it made 447 hp and 521 ftlbs of torque so that made me happy to know what the damb thing makes even though it cost me 400 bucks for fuel and dyno run im happy that i at least know what my motor can make at least to the crank so now to put the motor in the jeep and bring the jeep down and see what she makes to the rear axle so i will update as soon as i get the motor in and all done
Sometime somewhere he might give someone advice about tires or something and it won't be so apparent that he's been smoking bath salts.



I also find the report of a 520hp 2.5L AMC engine that he hand assembled, to be highly dubious... especially coming from an individual that can neither spell nor punctuate.



FYI, a motor is an electrical dvice that converts electricity into work. An engine is the thingy that utilizes combustion to generate the work.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:34 AM   #37
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:36 AM   #38
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:28 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudboy

Yeah that sounds about right, does that include reassemble?
I planned to reassemble it myself.... So I didn't ask. I wanted to learn more about how the motor works that's why I choose to do most the work myself.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:26 PM   #40
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That's cool Jake will set up the rings and have them correctly installed on the rods (pistons will be numbered for you) so the assembly should go smoothly. If you need a hand let me know.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:44 AM   #41
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rings are already filed and what not?
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:47 AM   #42
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I planned to reassemble it myself.... So I didn't ask. I wanted to learn more about how the motor works that's why I choose to do most the work myself.

Thats cool. best way to learn right there and you get to ride around with the pride of knowing you put your motor together.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:16 PM   #43
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Yup rings filed and installed with the right clocking, a typical newb mistake I've seen is a guy slaping the rings on not paying attention then wondering where all that compression went.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:23 PM   #44
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I ordered this video http://video.boxwrench.net/basic-engine-building.htm from box wrench does a great job telling u how to do EVERTHING. Check out there YouTube for an example.
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:44 PM   #45
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Fonse said the the cylinders will need to be bored .060 over. I'm a little skeptical of this much bore. Fonse said that if they make the piston then it is "safe". Just wanted to get some of your thoughts. Thanks.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:02 PM   #46
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I also felt the same way, had a 400 done a while back only wanted .10 over but they actually will only do what is needed. Unfortunately that means you really do need a .60 over but how many times did you want to rebuild anyway, think of how many miles you've got before the need to. Just use some purple ice in the radiator to help keep those thinner walls cool and you'll be good.
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:30 PM   #47
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I also felt the same way, had a 400 done a while back only wanted .10 over but they actually will only do what is needed. Unfortunately that means you really do need a .60 over but how many times did you want to rebuild anyway, think of how many miles you've got before the need to. Just use some purple ice in the radiator to help keep those thinner walls cool and you'll be good.
I'm not as concerned about another rebuild as I am the heat. I got a big E-fan off of a corvette (shouldn't have a problem cooling a 2.5). Also plan on putting on 160F thermostat. I haven't heard of purple ice Ill look into that. Would an aluminum radiator be over kill/waste of money (I'd rather spend 400 on something else if i don"t HAVE to spend it on a rad)?
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:23 AM   #48
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Maybe just go for a new stock Rad if yours is original or significantly older. I would stay away from the 160 stat, 180-185 is best less fluctuation in temp. Purple ice is the same as water wetter you can use either, both at Berlin pepboys.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:39 AM   #49
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Plus a 160 sounds a little cool for a fuel injected motor to run properly. Don't know the 4 cylinders as good as the 4.0
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:49 AM   #50
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Yup oem computers have tune changes for every few degrees of change. At 160-170 your motor is not running as efficient as it could. That low of a stat is more for aftermarket efi or carb and usually just in racing.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:51 AM   #51
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it will never reach closed loop right? and constantly try to adjust to compensate for the temperature killing performance and efficency
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Old 04-19-2012, 11:59 AM   #52
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I'm getting frustrated with Fonse. I was initially told the engine would be done in 2 weeks but it took them 3 weeks to tell me what size bearings and pistons to order. I dropped off the bearings and pistons to him yesterday. When I asked how long he laughed and said 2 weeks. I don't get why it would take another 2 weeks if the block and crack are done like they said it was... I think these guys are taking me for a ride...
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Old 04-20-2012, 04:04 PM   #53
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I'll admit not the fastest turn around but id put money on it being done right the first time. They are most likely swamped with boat engines right now.
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Old 05-03-2012, 07:47 AM   #54
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Just picked up the engine yesterday!! Work looks good! I'm excited to start putting it back together. I plan to paint it tonight. @4x4builder does your offer still stand to help me reassemble? I have plenty of beer and food for the grill.

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