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Old 06-18-2013, 11:54 PM   #1
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Raptor Lining

The Raptor Lining kit arrived today. Took the carpet out of the Jeep this evening and plan on taking out the seats tomorrow and vacuum out the interior. Toughest part was the secure box in the rear and trying to get up in the passenger corner to get the bolts loose.
I hope to get lots of pics along the way. I seem to have a lot of excess sealer build up in the tub, so will have to see how much i can sand down?
I am not very handy, so good luck to me.

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Old 06-19-2013, 10:03 AM   #2
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Good luck, man! Hope to do that myself at some point this summer. Post up how it turns out.

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Old 06-20-2013, 04:07 PM   #3
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You never know how common a problem is until it happens to you. Recommendation #1 - leave the backseat brackets in place when doing your lining. These bolts are prone to snap in half, due to the exposure to the elements. Sorry kids not rides till daddy can find someone to get these two broken bolts out. One was already broken, so i continued on thinking it I could work around it, until the other one snapped on the same bracket.... UH OH!
Second, make sure you have a long ratchet wrench to get these things out. That tool box mom and dad gave you in college to fix a futon, ain't gonna cut it. Thanks for a few friends for lending me some tools.
More updates to come...
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:27 PM   #4
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Successful!

UPOL Raptor Jeep Liner project -DONE!. My thanks go out to Bryan T. (tools), Jeff R.(tools), George Vincent (Nebel St Automotive for getting bolts out), Tom M (air compressor) and my lovely wife for buying me this Jeep!!
Nebel St Automotive in Rockville, Md has always been there for everything I need. Great place.
This a CHEAP and EASY project to complete. Prep is key. I stressed out for nothing. I hope I can get everything back in??
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:29 PM   #5
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more photos

more photos
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Old 06-26-2013, 12:31 PM   #6
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more photos

more photos. hope u enjoy.
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Old 07-08-2013, 01:50 PM   #7
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Love it, Going to have this done to my jeep as well. You did the door panels eh? I wonder the difference of the liner holding to plastic as opposed to metal.

When sanding did you use a hand sander (power) or just a sanding brick? How hard should one scratch up the paint?
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:25 PM   #8
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no door panels, but I did the tailgate. I just used 220 grit brick. and i also used the green industrial scour pads (can get at your local hardware store) for the harder to reach places, because they had more flexibility. I did enough scrubbing to get the gloss off the paint. all other places that i hit metal, i hit it with a primer. Prep was the toughest part. Spraying was easy. I only used 3 of the 4 bottles. I wish i used all 4 now. there are a few places that i now see that i missed. but i just use black spray paint for those noticeable spots.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:26 PM   #9
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I plan on double dipping with the high traffic areas. I read the product webpage and they even recommend spraying under the vehicles too.

Sanding Brick and some green scrubbies. For Primer I picked up a rattle can of Self-Etching Primer, that what your talking about?
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:43 PM   #10
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Ordered my Raptor Liner kit today. Never taken apart the inside of the jeep before so this will be interesting. I know I'm going to have to do something with the sound bar wiring, masking off the drain holes, bolts, filling holes, connections... I need to get a shopping list together it would seem.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:09 PM   #11
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X2 on watching out for those seat brackets. ended up snapping one of my bolts as well when doing this. Had to drill it out, and get the next size bolt, plus nut and washer and just threw grade 8 hardware in there. Looks out of place but it will hold up like it's supposed to.

I also used 3 bottles and wish i had used 4. Had a few spots you can tell are thin because it still looks shiny when the sun hits it right. Don't feel like taking everything back out and taping off everything again though.

And a easy fix for those bolt holes, get a box of those foamy ear plugs, mash em up and shove em in the holes. when they expand back out they seal off the threads nicely. Just don't forget to pull them before the liner dries.
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Old 07-11-2013, 01:56 PM   #12
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And a easy fix for those bolt holes, get a box of those foamy ear plugs, mash em up and shove em in the holes. when they expand back out they seal off the threads nicely. Just don't forget to pull them before the liner dries.

Each coat?
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Old 07-11-2013, 02:47 PM   #13
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i pulled em after the third coat. Pretty much did all three coats right after each other as it's a rough surface and i wasn't worried about runs. Just as long as it took me to pour in the hardener, shake it up and attach the bottle back to the gun is all the time i waited in between.

Turned out looking great though. But one biggie, do not let the gun tip too far over. There's a vent hole on top and blobs of the stuff will fall out resulting in big puddle spots. If you do, quickly smear it around and flatten it out as much as possible with your hand (wear gloves obviously). the next coat will cover it up fairly well.

and 2. Find a piece of plywood or something to practice spraying on so you can judge the distance you want to keep from the surface you are painting. Consistant air pressure and distance is key to a nice uniform looking end product.

And 3 if you think you have taped off enough surface around what you are spraying, double it just in case. I went up and over the window channels with mine, and had some overspray issues on the paint between that and the fender flares.. Had to get the goo gone out immediately to get it off the paint so it couldn't set up. It does take some time to harden so you have a little time to work with if you accidentally overspray.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:40 AM   #14
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ugh, freaking nervous haha. won't be spraying for at least 2 or 3 weeks, keeps raining every day here and going on Vaca next week but i'm getting as learned up as I can
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:30 AM   #15
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don't worry too much. I was scared i would mess it up too, had no idea what i was doing.

Just spend extra time on the prep. And tape off and bag everything you can, you will get overspray. You will be fine. The beauty of this stuff is it's a rough finish anyway, you can't see the runs like normal paint if you accidentally spray too thick of a coat.

I sprayed mine when I had 3 days afterwards that I didn't have to drive it. Set's up fine for light duty use in that time, just put in the driver seat and seat belt and such, anything you need to drive it safely.

Then give it a week before you start putting in the other seats, brackets, console, etc.

And be prepared for that wet paint smell to linger a few weeks before it goes away. Had to drive around with all the windows out for a while. It gets annoying for a while but it will finally go away.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:12 PM   #16
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Thats fine, its not my DD. I need to learn to take everything out as well. glad yours came out so good!
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:54 PM   #17
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any thoughts on using a Power, Hand Sander to help speed up the process? stick with 180 - 220 grit?
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:53 PM   #18
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I used 120 grit paper i think sand lightly., all you gotta do is scuff it up. For those valleys and channels those green scotch brite pads help get in there a bit.

Easiest way i found, get a bucket of soapy water and a rag, and a scotch brite pad spongy side. give it a good car wash inside first to get mud/dirt/dust whatever out of your way.

Then do your sanding/scuffing. then get a vacuum and suck up everything you can. Then hit it up with acetone, or something to get the leftover dust.

Pretty much ready to spray at that point. tape off and/or cover anything you don't want liner on, self etch primer on any bare metal spots, and go to town.
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Old 07-12-2013, 03:54 PM   #19
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search for a raptor liner post by golden sahara, he has pics, and i tagged some of my pics at the end of that post i think.
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:31 PM   #20
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I agree w/ Viper. it is not hard to get the gloss off the paint. Keep the back seat brackets in place, so you don't end up breaking bolts, seems to be a common problem. I am having issues w/ finding new ones to fit back in there. Been to HD, Fastenal, even went to Jeep and they gave me the wrong bolt. Still searching....
I stressed too over the week before I was going to do it... it was easy, don't stress. Focus on Prep. Spraying part is easy.... should not take you long to do. Use all 4 bottles and don't be afraid to get closer on the first bottle or two for a thicker coat. you can step back a bit on the final bottle to get a clean coating on top.
I wonder how well the last bottle will even stick on the surface of the liner, because it is slick!
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Old 07-24-2013, 06:07 AM   #21
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I just went to the hardware store and got some grade eight hardware. First i had to drill out the old bolt, which made the hole slightly larger anyway. Went and got a new bolt/nut/washer. Put it back in with a buddies help, now you have to hold that nut on the bottom side. Got the job done though, and it ain't moving anywhere.

But if you can get around removing those brackets in the first place, don't touch em. Those bolts snapping seem to be a common occurrence. Not saying 100% you are going to snap one, but there's a strong chance.
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Old 07-31-2013, 03:17 PM   #22
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Looks great! I have been thinking about doing this to my TJ. And a big thumbs up to Nebel St Automotive. Mark lives in my parent's neighborhood and has taken excellent care of all of my vehicles over the last 10 years.
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Old 08-28-2013, 07:01 AM   #23
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Started stripping the seats, bolts and plugs yesterday. I have a few questions and I hope I don't bug anyone with them.

I am debating removing the rear seat brackets, the back two brackets look to have new bolts in them while the front two look good and rusted. I hit them with PB Blaster before I went to bed last night so its had a good while to sit there. Do you still recommend leaving them in though? I just want a good even liner.

The trunk latch and I guess they are bump stops (not on the swing door but in the actual tub) did you remove them or just mark them off with tape?

Seat belts, I am not sure how one would remove these, or is this again just a tape off thing?

Also, here, Did you remove those four bolts up against the center of the jeep or did you just tape around them?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 08-29-2013, 10:00 AM   #24
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Another question. What size Torx wrench will I need for the bolts under the seats and the rear Seatbelt bolt.

My largest Torx wrench is just a smidge too small.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:44 AM   #25
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Pretty sure its a T47....

Just finished Raptor Lining mine.

Here are some tips...

*80 grit sandpaper. You want adhesion, you don't want this stuff to peel up after putting a lot prepping time in it.

* Red Scotchbrite pad, use on all the spots you cant hit with the sander... good for the groves on the floor and around the anchors.also hit the spots right up the the edge of the tape before you wipe down and spray.

* Seam seal any cracks in the factory seam sealer, prevents possible water from laying and possibly causing rust. some of my seams were cracked I removed the older seam sealer and applied new.

* Wax and Grease remover, use prior to spraying removes all contaminants from the tub. again better adhesion. a solvent soaked rag followed by a dry one....

I had some rust scales inside my tub, I small angle grinder with a 36 grit pad, to remove then hit it with some self-etch primer.

This stuff sets up pretty quick, By the time I cleaned up the Splatter Gun, I was able to start untaping, Untape it sooner then later, It's going to be alot easier when this stuff is still soft....Hope this helps you obtain the best looking liner.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:05 AM   #26
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Pretty sure its a T47....

Where does one obtain this? Everywhere I go I only find T40. Rather discouraging.
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Old 08-30-2013, 09:10 AM   #27
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Where does one obtain this? Everywhere I go I only find T40. Rather discouraging.
I'm pretty sure Lowes or Home Depot will have them....
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Old 09-19-2013, 10:45 AM   #28
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I wan to hit mine. just can't make up my mine if I am going to paint the jeep white, if so then I will do a white liner , if I keep her red .. red she is !
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:56 PM   #29
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I love the white and black. I don't think that i would want a white floor however. the UPOL raptor does have tinting options! Mine is holding up well. there are some places that I have hit hard with the corner of a toolbox and it marked it up. My buddy is doing his soon and I will get closer with the spray gun to get a thicker coat. and then farther away on the final coat to get that nice texture. I contacted the company and found out that you will not be able to patch with the liner, b/c it will NOT stick to itself. It will bond when curing, but not afterwards. Just an FYI.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:59 PM   #30
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I have torx that go all the way to 50. Hdepot has them in their tool section. I took the seat belts off the brackets from the bottom and then just zip tied them up out of the way. All the bolts, i just taped off.

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