|02-06-2011 01:25 AM|
Rich's solution to the castle nut issue is a better solution, go with it.
And yes, you definitely need to get rid of the dropped pitman arm. Really. Without a doubt. Not making it up
|02-06-2011 12:32 AM|
I'm not comfortable with just bending the ends of the Cotter pin down into the Castellated nut. It's Mickey Mouse, not good practice. Slip a hardened washer over the stud under the nut to space it up so the Cotter pin goes through the ears of the Castle nut.
CAUTION - it happened to me and to a friend - The supplied Castellated nut is not hardened, the stud is. Under stress the nut's soft threads strip out, the nut slides up and cuts the Cotter pin, then off. When the stud slips out you lose all control. (As a trail fix a lug nut might hold well enough to get home.)
The stud's threads get damaged beyond safe repair, requiring a new tie rod. Currie won't replace the pressed in TRE end.
Hardened Castellated nuts are rare - specialty houses like Nutty Bolt in Hesperia can order hardened Castle nuts, about $4.00 ea. (Yes I know they have slash marks, but for something else. Drag a file across yours, if it's hardened you'll know it.)
So far I've ruined 2 Currie tie rods, one as noted above, the other I snapped in half. (Forgings don't like to bend.) But still - they make the best set-up I've seen!
|02-05-2011 11:21 PM|
|NUTnOUT||forgot to add the pics.......|
|02-05-2011 11:20 PM|
guess i'll do the same with the cotter pin. can you look at these pics and tell me for sure that i need an oem pitman arm please. if i do need one I would like to install one BEFORE i take it in for an alignment.
i also dont have the patience to keep taking everything apart and checking the toe-in and centering the axle. would taking it in for an alignment take care of these measurements/checks?
|02-05-2011 07:57 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||I just looked at my Currie TRE at that same location your TRE's grease boot is squished and mine is squished just like yours, it must be normal. My cotter pin hole is too high too but as mentioned above, I just have the cotter pin bent down into the castle nut.|
|02-05-2011 05:52 PM|
|NUTnOUT||thanks jerry. I got that sleeve out of the track bar mount. Now i need to get a 5/8" drill bit to drill out the mount hole so the bigger track bar will bolt up to it. the Tie rod i got from northridge 4x4 which is the currie tie rod so it should be the right one. where i mounted the other end of the tie rod to the drag link looks fine so i think maybe the knuckle is worn/reamed out......dont know how to fix that.......dont want to buy a new knuckle or spindle.|
|02-05-2011 02:51 PM|
Whatever the Pitman arm says on it doesn't matter because it obviously has a major drop to it which should NOT be on your TJ due to you having a non-dropped track bar mount. That's a combination that is guaranteed to produce bump steer which is only felt when driving over bumps or dips on the road. You really need to get rid of that dropped Pitman arm and replace it with the factory Pitman arm. Older Jeeps like the CJ and Wrangler YJ need dropped Pitman arms with any suspension lift, not so with the TJ unless there is an aftermarket dropped upper mount for the track bar which your TJ does not have.
The track bar mount you have in your second photo is stock, that silver-looking thing hanging out of it is not stock.
There is not normally a sleeve where the TRE stud fits into the knuckle, I don't know why yours is fitting up so far into the knuckle unless the hole in the knuckle has been reamed out or the stud is not for the TJ.
|02-05-2011 02:42 PM|
the pitman arm says YJ400 on it and the steering seemed to be fine before i took it all apart except for the bad track bar. the tie rod bar was bent to hell from the previous owner smashing it on a rock. the track bar i bought has a 5/8" bolt that goes in the upper mount where the sleeve is at and it doesn't fit through the sleeve so i obviously need to remove it somehow. does anyone have a picture of what a stock mount looks like where the upper track bar mounts on the driver side frame?
jerry, is there supposed to be a sleeve in the knuckle where the TRE goes through because i didn't see anything?
|02-05-2011 02:03 PM|
I've had the cotter key hole above a castle nut like that before, I just bend the cotter key down on both sides with a punch until it is in the gaps to prevent it from turning. But the fact the boot is compressed so much makes me wonder if there is a sleeve or something missing to prevent the tapered stud from fitting so far into the knuckle.
So far as that sleeve in the upper track bar mount goes, it's not factory so no telling why it's there, perhaps the previous owner had to reduce the hole size for an undersized track bar mounting stud. If your new track bar mounting bolt fits the original track bar mounting bolt hole size, then yes that sleeve needs to come out.
I can tell you this that if you are not also installing a dropped track bar mount there, that you need to replace that dropped Pitman arm with the non-dropped factory Pitman arm. With a stock upper track bar mount as is in your second photo, that dropped Pitman arm you have installed is causing bump steer. Get rid of it, replace it with the factory non-dropped Pitman arm.
|02-05-2011 01:52 PM|
TRE Nuts and Track Bar mount
dont know how to post info to each picture but i have two pictures. one shows my new TRE nut torqued down to 55 ft.lb. you can see that the cotter/caughter/colder/codder pin hole is above the castle nut. do i just leave the cotter pin out? it looks like my grease boot is smashed pretty good too. what gives?
Also the other picture is my driver side track bar mount location. what is that sleeve hanging down? is it supposed to be there or should i try and pry it out? I bought a new currie TJJ track bar to mount there. somehow i dont think that sleeve is supposed to be there.