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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-21-2012 07:50 AM
thenorsepole I run my wiring and washer line under the roll bar padding. Unzip the padding, tuck, re-zip and fuggetaboutit.
03-21-2012 07:25 AM
Cruise missile Mine tuck in the seat belt plastic cover thingy.

Pop the seat belt guide "up" (oval shaped piece the belt runs through) and then the two halves of the base can be pulled apart.

I used a thin screwdriver to encourage the base to come apart.

Once open, tuck the hose and harness in there and re-assemble. The hose and harness need to be un-twisted to fit in there neatly.

I became determined to firgure this out because of the little pictures on that trim piece. It's actually quite easy to do tool-less now that I've done it.
03-20-2012 08:18 PM
adrenalin Good questions. I just took my hard top off today and installed the soft top. Talk about a learning experience. Anyway, due to the lack of instructions I also have no clue what to do with the washer hose and wire harness. I did remove the panel that showed pictures of the harness and washer symbol however there is no way to get the stuff tucked in there. I did however find a piece of plastic that had a nut in the middle that wasn't connected to anything (interesting). So what exactly are we to do with the washer hose and harness once the hard top is removed?
02-15-2012 12:00 PM
tdbohannon thanks. Just ran outside and folded it over in to the channel. Worked like a charm.
02-15-2012 10:57 AM
daggo66 Your pictures cannot be seen. You need to use a picture hosting site such as Photobucket.

The front edge of the windows do not tuck into the door. As soon as you drive down the road they will pull out. The leading edges tucks back into the "C" channel of the plastic door surround. The surrounds need to be installed when you first install the soft top.

To install the windows, start the top zipper about an inch or two. Then tuck in the leading edge. The edge of the window should fold into a "U" with the inside leg od the "U" tucking into the "C" channel of the door surround. Then tuck the lower plastic piece into the body channel. Finally zip the window all the way around and smooth over the velcro. Then go back and make sure the leading edge is tucked all the way in.
02-15-2012 10:08 AM
tdbohannon
First time hardtop off / soft top on questions....

It was 72 and sunny yesterday so I couldn't resist!
After reading numerous helpful posts, I got over my apprehension and removed the hardtop myself using 4 eye bolts screwed in to the rafters and 2 cambuckle straps run front to back. After removal I lowered it down on to the homemade storage dolly (used the plans referenced on here and it worked great) and all in it only took about 15 minutes. I was shocked by the simplicity. I can see the point of a hoist system if you don't have both tops and need to repeatedly remove / reinstall, but for going on / off twice per year I don't think I'd bother taking the time to install one even if it was free...

Anyway, on to my questions. The first relates to the washer hose / rear window power plug. Is there a good way to hide or protect these? On the trim panel where the rear seat belt feeds down to the mount, there are indicators for power and washer and some 'tabs' that appear to be intened to remove that part of the panel.
It didn't remove easily and I didn't want to force it. Is it intended to be removed for hiding the exposed ends?

The second question regards the point where the rear side windows mesh with the rear door seal. The instructions that come with the jeep / top / and accompanying DVD are crap (unless I"m looking in the wrong place) but it looks like the stiff leading l-shaped edge is just supposed to end up wedged between the door and pillar. This works out OK at the bottom, but the top couple of inches keep popping out and at speed they pull out further.
Is this normal? Is it something where over time as the roof and window panel expand a bit it will fit more flush?

Thanks in advance for any answers or insight. I've really enjoyed learning on the forum so far..

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