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Topic Review (Newest First)
02-19-2012 09:38 AM
Kevbz here's a link to that that .pdf. I cant upload it, its a bit to big...but if you cant download it I can email it to you

it on my google docs

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B7_...Q2MGFkN2Q1OGVh

page 4 tells you how to identify the axle, and about page 86 the info on TJ d44's starts, the bill of Material numbers are listed, telling you what year it is from.

about page 68 is the front 44 info

they also list every part you need to make it complete, and part numbers if you find yourself buying it and needing parts down the road, although I think they are so well used most aftermarket kits come with everything you need.
02-19-2012 09:38 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
I think that is all, but I may may have missed a thing or two.
don't forget knuckles and ball joints.

also make sure the house includes bearing caps. bearing caps are specific to the housing, and there should be identifying marks on each bearing cap and on the inside of the housing.

no bearing caps = big paperweight.
02-19-2012 09:19 AM
Kevbz Just off of the top of my head, and you may already know this but if I was looking at them I'd look at where the pinion goes in, checking for breaks or cracks that would allow a leak or the pinion bearing to wobble. Granted you won't see anything microscopic but dents crushed or cracked.

Take a long look down it looking for bends in the tubes, almost like looking at a 2x4 at the lumber store. Look for damage in the housing, if the carrier or gears grenaded in there, there may be damage.

Mounts should look factory welded.

You don't have the luxury of all the rotating parts being on it to check for function.

That and direct questions spread out through conversation help find the hidden stuff. I always make small talk, telling "I had a buddy once..." stories then ask a direct question "are these mounts factory? " catches liars off guard and you can here it in their voice.

But then again when it comes to my money, I always think I'm getting screwed! But at 125.00 for the pair you are doing awesome and if you find out later they are junk, they are worth that in scrap.

Bring a magnet, there is a d44a that's aluminum from grand Cherokee.

I just bought a d44 complete and found a Dana/Spicer book that let's you run the numbers on the tubes (called a B O M #, bill of materials) and see what year it is, I downloaded the pdf and had it in the my phone.

Not saying you don't know what to look for, I'm just pessimistic about good deals, and always look for the hidden catch.
02-19-2012 08:37 AM
LiftedTj Thank you. Your help is much appreciated. Hopefully going to check them out next week. I hope they aren't to bad.
02-18-2012 07:28 PM
doclouie First off I wish I could find a Dana 44 housing as that is a steal of a deal as long as they are straight. Here is a list of what you will need at least for the rear if it is totally stripped:

Carrier
Ring & pinion to match the front gearing
Carrier & pinion bearings and pinion seal
Carrier & pinion shim kit
Axle shafts
Axle bearings and seals
Whole brake assembly kit (if you are going with drum brakes)
Drums or rotors
New pads or shoes
Drum back plate
Wheel cylinders or calipers
Brake lines or hoses
Caliper bracket

I think that is all, but I may may have missed a thing or two.
02-18-2012 07:12 PM
LiftedTj
Dana 44 housing

I found a set of front and rear dana 44s out of a TJ. They are only the housings for $125 for the set. What all needs to be purchased to get them operational? Diff covers are not included in the deal, just the housings. Thanks for the help

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