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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-23-2013 06:45 AM
ajleemax800
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav5942 View Post
aj-what hitch are you using? Saw JK pulling a 24' RV trailer.
I have the stock receiver hitch with a 4 in drop receiver
2 in ball
08-22-2013 07:34 AM
dklassen Interesting how my wife's 2003 Jeep Liberty is rated to 5000lbs but the JKU is only 3500lbs. Why? Because it's considered a convertible. In Europe the JKU is rated much higher. Same JKU that's sold here.

I pulled a single axle, no trailer brakes loaded to the max enclosed trailer (5000lbs) with the Liberty from CA to TN. Except for going over the rockies, I hardly knew it was back there. No problem pulling, no problem stopping.

The JKU should handle 4k easy.
08-22-2013 07:09 AM
JandS
Quote:
Originally Posted by mslandsurveyor View Post
One of the limiting factors that I can see for the JKU is the rating on the hitch. Ours came with a Class II with up to 3500 lbs. That, in and of itself, suggests a hardline of 3500lbs to me!
This is an extremely good point. Exceeding the rating of the hitch could lead to damage to your vehicle even if it didn't lead to an accident. Think about it this way - do you want oncoming drivers exceeding the rating of their hitches?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JeeperJake View Post
...we should also realize the US ratio of litigators/square mile versus any potential issue-at-law is higher than anywhere else in the world...
The old "I don't understand this problem, so I'll find a group of people who is different from me and blame them!" logic. If you can find me some evidence that lawyers, and not engineers, are behind the tow rating, I'd love to hear it. Do "ambulance chasing" personal injury/wrongful death lawyers sometimes take the fun out of things? Sure, but those same lawyers have led to a LOT of the safety advances you find on every vehicle and product sold today. Does it add expense? Sure, but we don't have people getting maimed in routine accidents anymore at nearly the rate we used to.

You think "they don't make 'em like they used to" or "safety is for wimps"? Watch this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPF4fBGNK0U

Quote:
Originally Posted by daggo66 View Post
You are giving really bad advice. If anything unforseen were to happen (accident) and someone was towing over the vehicle's rated capacity, they would be completely screwed.
Listen to this guy. Anyone can do what they want with their Jeep, but if you get into an accident with an overloaded Jeep, you're not only going to get roasted by the cops, but you're looking at a personal injury/negligence lawsuit with punitive damages. Punitive damages are not covered by your auto insurance and generally can't be discharged in bankruptcy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 12JKUR View Post
My bet is the OP is long gone!

That being said, the OP was under 3,500 lbs so no prob.

If he bought a JKU anywhere in the world except the US, he would be good to 5,000 lbs from what I understand. A US JKU can handle far more than 3,500 lbs.
Your Jeep is capable of towing more than 3500 pounds, but can it do it safely? Do you realize that in the US, we have higher speed limits than most other areas of the world? You can do 85 in parts of Texas and 75 many other places. It takes MUCH longer to stop from 75mph than 60mph.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL2 View Post
Tow rating is a few different factors...

- Engine/Power/Torque: sure, it's important
- Brakes: if you're gonna move it, you better stop it
- Suspension: if you hook it up, you better hold it up
- Cooling: you can move it, but how long?
- Safety factor: there's what your engineers tell you it will do...and what your lawyers say is "OK."

Braking - what if you're towing in WV/UT/WY or somewhere with some hills...can you stop your trailer on your way down a 6%+ grade safely? I see threads on here where guys cannot stop just their Wrangler with slightly larger tires and stock brakes...what happens when you add a trailer? Something to consider here as well.

Suspension - maintaining control of the whole shebang is what your springs/shocks and rollbars, etc. do. Ride in an unloaded 3/4 pick-up with a tow package and you'll get a feel for how stiff a rear-end can be. However, the RTI score is likely to disappoint (the Power Wagon being a contrary example that shows what can be done if you desire both flex and the ability to tow an M1151).

If you want to tow with your Jeep, the key is identifying which factors limit the Jeep's performance and modifying them appropriately. If you don't want to bother and you have money to throw at the problem, you can upgrade the cooling, the brakes and go with a stiffer variable rate suspension.
Thank you for providing a detailed analysis of what makes up a tow rating. It sure beats the misinformation in this thread. Most Jeepers upgrade to heavier wheels and tires without ever considering that they're overloading the stock brakes. Additionally, the Wrangler's stability control and limited slip computer parameters were designed for the stock size tires and stock weight wheels and tires. I am sure they can compensate to a degree, but at some point a lifted Jeep with gumbo tires is going to overwhelm the safety features and become a hazard.
08-22-2013 07:01 AM
dav5942 aj-what hitch are you using? Saw JK pulling a 24' RV trailer.
08-22-2013 06:45 AM
ajleemax800 I happen to have a 12 rubicon with 4.10 on 35's and tow a V nose 24ft snow mobile trailer. Loaded it is right at 5000lb. I take 3 trips a year about 400 miles each She pulls fairly well at 68 mpr i get 9.5 mpg and will hold 5 gear with auto. Any faster Like 69 mpr I am in 4th and get 7.5 mpr I have a 2.5 in lift and extended Bump stops. with the correct amount of tung weight I am about .25 to .5 in off the Stops . When I loaded trailer with less tung weight the rear felt pretty Loose My guess is the real limit is how soft the rear suspension is. My long bump stops stiffen up the suspension to . I plan on installing a set of rear air bags You can order a set of Air bag inserts for the Rear of JK for around 100.00 on ebay. Then you could adjust the stiff ness of the rear..
This is just my experience. Tower be ware...
09-07-2012 08:41 AM
JeeperJake ...we should also realize the US ratio of litigators/square mile versus any potential issue-at-law is higher than anywhere else in the world...
09-07-2012 08:02 AM
Gin LOL but they no longer exist...
09-07-2012 07:42 AM
Con Artist Buy a Hummer H3 Alpha. They can tow 6,000 lbs.

09-07-2012 07:33 AM
Gin Wow! Well that's almost 1000 lbs more than North America specs...
09-06-2012 07:17 AM
Fas550 On the U.K. Website the towing rates are listed as follows for the 2012 w Penstar
Max towing with trailer braking system: 2000 Kg
Max Towing without a trailer braking system 750 Kg
1 Kg = 2.2Lbs
Given there is a margin of safety factor on official figures; you be the judge
04-28-2012 06:19 PM
12JKUR Yup, a brick towing a brick must be terrible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Netra View Post
12JKUR had an interesting comment about Jeep Wranglers outside of the USA. I checked out the Jeep Australia website and found that the towing capacity of the Wrangler Unlimited was indeed almost 5000lbs!!
Compare Models - Wrangler Unlimited

The extremely limited towing capacity (specifically the trailer "frontal area") is the only reason I have not yet purchased a Wrangler. I had heard rumors that the towing issue was because of cooling system or brakes or whatever, but I guess the reason is liability related.

For those researching Wrangler towing capacity, be sure to see the "allowable frontal area" in the vehicle's manual - it is pathetic.
04-26-2012 10:51 AM
Netra
Wrangler tow capacity - >3500lbs outside USA

12JKUR had an interesting comment about Jeep Wranglers outside of the USA. I checked out the Jeep Australia website and found that the towing capacity of the Wrangler Unlimited was indeed almost 5000lbs!!
Compare Models - Wrangler Unlimited

The extremely limited towing capacity (specifically the trailer "frontal area") is the only reason I have not yet purchased a Wrangler. I had heard rumors that the towing issue was because of cooling system or brakes or whatever, but I guess the reason is liability related.

For those researching Wrangler towing capacity, be sure to see the "allowable frontal area" in the vehicle's manual - it is pathetic.
04-09-2012 09:50 PM
tropical36
Quote:
Originally Posted by pasteris71 View Post
Gin, get that in writing! They are full of it. My dealer told me not to tow more than 3000 lbs and make sure I had a transmission cooler.
I agree for using the passing lane in Appalachia and the Rockies.
04-09-2012 09:48 PM
Gin Well, we already know that it can officially tow up to 3500 lbs. My JKU has a manual transmission. I dont think I need to add more cooling device, but I may be wrong on that one. For the 10000 lbs part... 100% sale pitch... But I still believe it could do it, but not for long though...
04-09-2012 09:46 PM
tropical36
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gin View Post
My dealer told me I would'nt have any trouble pulling my Kodiak RV (3100 lbs) and he told that if I wanted to I could easily pull a 10000 lbs boat off the water... then my mouth went down the floor.
I have no doubts. Even with pulling 10K out of the water. You'd want to be in 4WD low, of course. After that and for going anywhere, it'd be up for grabs and I for one, would be hitching it up to something else.
04-09-2012 09:33 PM
pasteris71 Gin, get that in writing! They are full of it. My dealer told me not to tow more than 3000 lbs and make sure I had a transmission cooler.
04-09-2012 09:03 PM
Gin My dealer told me I would'nt have any trouble pulling my Kodiak RV (3100 lbs) and he told that if I wanted to I could easily pull a 10000 lbs boat off the water... then my mouth went down the floor.
04-09-2012 12:19 PM
tropical36 Wheel base is taken into account also and the JKU is still shorter than a lot of them out there. An equalizing system would help with the hitch weight. The OP suggests very short runs as a rule so if it were me, I'd go for it. Keep my speed down, etc...and I'm betting that nothing will break or fall off. Hopefully his trailer has a good braking system as well.
04-09-2012 11:46 AM
mslandsurveyor One of the limiting factors that I can see for the JKU is the rating on the hitch. Ours came with a Class II with up to 3500 lbs. That, in and of itself, suggests a hardline of 3500lbs to me!
04-09-2012 10:04 AM
tropical36
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12JKUR View Post
My bet is the OP is long gone!

That being said, the OP was under 3,500 lbs so no prob.

If he bought a JKU anywhere in the world except the US, he would be good to 5,000 lbs from what I understand. A US JKU can handle far more than 3,500 lbs.

If you were involved in a wreck or needed warranty work, and either ins or chrysler wanted a reason NOT to pay (that's what they do), youd be on your own.

Have heard of Toyotas blowing up engines if they were pushed a little, never heard of such a thing w/a jeep.

Good luck w/that F(ake)J(eep)
I agree and I think you're right. The Jeep will pull 5K and even if it won't, I doubt if it'll blow the engine. One must remember that all these figures are based on many factors including traveling down the interstate at 70mph, without fear of losing it all, so there's more than one way to comprimise and prevent disaster.
Anyway, good to get the thread going again, with the OP to answer present or without them....
04-09-2012 09:10 AM
12JKUR My bet is the OP is long gone!

That being said, the OP was under 3,500 lbs so no prob.

If he bought a JKU anywhere in the world except the US, he would be good to 5,000 lbs from what I understand. A US JKU can handle far more than 3,500 lbs.

If you were involved in a wreck or needed warranty work, and either ins or chrysler wanted a reason NOT to pay (that's what they do), youd be on your own.

Have heard of Toyotas blowing up engines if they were pushed a little, never heard of such a thing w/a jeep.

Good luck w/that F(ake)J(eep)
04-08-2012 10:16 PM
tropical36 DJL2....
Speaking of WV, that's where this scenario mostly took place in the 60's and 70's. Now, we did have supplemental brakes for these things and a darn good thing. They were the hydraulic controlled electrics and typical of heavy RV travel trailers.
04-08-2012 09:24 PM
DJL2 Tow rating is a few different factors...

- Engine/Power/Torque: sure, it's important
- Brakes: if you're gonna move it, you better stop it
- Suspension: if you hook it up, you better hold it up
- Cooling: you can move it, but how long?
- Safety factor: there's what your engineers tell you it will do...and what your lawyers say is "OK."

As an example, the BMW 335 with the N54 engine was designed for air cooled operation. Under hard use, it exceeded design parameters and would overheat, the engine would electronically limit its performance to prevent damage, no towing required. That's an engine with 300 hp and 300 lb-ft towing nothing at all - power is not everything.

Braking - what if you're towing in WV/UT/WY or somewhere with some hills...can you stop your trailer on your way down a 6%+ grade safely? I see threads on here where guys cannot stop just their Wrangler with slightly larger tires and stock brakes...what happens when you add a trailer? Something to consider here as well.

Suspension - maintaining control of the whole shebang is what your springs/shocks and rollbars, etc. do. Ride in an unloaded 3/4 pick-up with a tow package and you'll get a feel for how stiff a rear-end can be. However, the RTI score is likely to disappoint (the Power Wagon being a contrary example that shows what can be done if you desire both flex and the ability to tow an M1151).

If you want to tow with your Jeep, the key is identifying which factors limit the Jeep's performance and modifying them appropriately. If you don't want to bother and you have money to throw at the problem, you can upgrade the cooling, the brakes and go with a stiffer variable rate suspension.
04-08-2012 08:37 PM
tropical36
Quote:
Originally Posted by suicideking View Post
I know this thread is a month old, found it searching for tow capacity.

My boss decided it was ok to tow a boat that slightly exceeded his tow capacity in a V6 Nissan Pathfinder and blew the engine. He tried all kinds of BS to get insurance to cover it and of course they didn't.

So yeah, don't be like my dumb ass boss: NEVER exceed towing capacity...
Not arguing the point of exceeding capacity but if that was the case, then we should have blown everything up in the old days.
Who weighed anything and where were towing capacities listed for the cars that people welded and bolted hitches on? Answer: No one cared. Not to mention, inadequate cooling systems, slipamatic auto transmissions, no oil coolers, etc... The biggest thing going for them, were some good solid frames and bumpers in most cases that still required some sort of rear suspension reinforcement to keep it off the ground and your lights out of the trees when driving at night, and just like overloaded pickups full of rocks or gravel...
As for insurance companies, they'll use any excuse not to pay.
04-08-2012 07:59 PM
suicideking I know this thread is a month old, found it searching for tow capacity.

My boss decided it was ok to tow a boat that slightly exceeded his tow capacity in a V6 Nissan Pathfinder and blew the engine. He tried all kinds of BS to get insurance to cover it and of course they didn't.

So yeah, don't be like my dumb ass boss: NEVER exceed towing capacity...
03-14-2012 06:02 PM
strider_mt2k
Quote:
Originally Posted by pat@fieldsauto.com View Post
How To Job Rate
Some uninformed buyers believe that any vehicle can tow any trailer. But this is not the case. There are numerous factors that have to be taken into consideration when recommending a vehicle for trailer towing. Otherwise, the buyer may find his/her vehicle struggling to get up a hill with a trailer being pulled by an inadequate drivetrain, or losing control of the vehicle because of improper weight distribution, or breaking down because of overloading. Whatever the case, you can help buyers make the right vehicle purchase decision based on their trailering needs.

Determining Trailer Weight
There is a maximum trailer weight that a vehicle can pull depending on a vehicle’s size and drivetrain. Therefore, it is necessary for your customer to provide the loaded weight (and frontal area) of the trailer that will be hitched to their vehicle. In most cases, the trailer manufacturer will supply the GTWR.

When specifying a trailer-tow vehicle, you need to determine the total loaded weight of a trailer. Guessing won’t do because there’s a possibility you may underestimate the total weight, which could cause numerous problems. The safest method is to use the GTWR, even if the customer currently does not tow at the fully loaded capacity. If the trailer is ever fully loaded in the future, the vehicle will be capable of hauling the load.

Tongue Weight
Trailer tongue weight (TW) is described as the downward force exerted on the tow vehicle’s hitch ball by the trailer tongue coupler. In most cases, the trailer tongue weight on a drawbar should not be less than 10 percent or more than 15 percent of the trailer load.

Placing too much weight on a trailer hitch can damage suspension and driveline components of the vehicle, while too little weight can cause the rear end of the tow vehicle to lift — thereby reducing a vehicle’s rear-wheel traction, which can cause trailer sway or jackknifing. Special care should be taken to ensure the trailer load weight is distributed correctly. Proper weight distribution affects tongue weight and trailer handling.

Combining Vehicle and Trailer Weights
When selecting a vehicle to meet your customer’s towing needs, you will need to know the loaded gross vehicle weight (GVW) of the tow vehicle (without the trailer tongue weight), as well as the loaded gross weight of the trailer (GTW). Their combined weight is called the gross combination weight (GCW). Here’s the formula:

GVW + GTW = GCW

Just like the maximum weight rating of a trailer, there is a maximum combined weight rating given to vehicles designed to pull a trailer. This measurement is called the gross combination weight rating (GCWR), and it’s used to establish a vehicle’s safe towing limit.

When choosing a vehicle that will be hauling a trailer, you will have to determine the GCW of the vehicle and loaded trailer and then compare it with the GCWR of the vehicle. Doing this is easy:

Determine the GVW of the vehicle (with tongue weight).
Add this to the GTW to determine the GCW of the vehicle and trailer.
Make sure the GCW doesn’t exceed the GCWR of the vehicle.
It is the reasoned informed input of members like this that I became a supporter of this place.

Thanks man.
03-14-2012 04:50 PM
tropical36
Quote:
Originally Posted by JustMike View Post
Maybe I'm not reading something right, but on the Canadian Jeep.ca website it lists the GVWR for the Sahara at 5337lbs and the Rubicon at 5448Lbs when you build it!Where's the 3500lbs you guys are talking about?
You should be able to find about anything you want to know along these lines by clicking here..... The 2007-2010 Jeep Wrangler
There's a link on the page that will switch you over to the unlimited versions as well.
03-14-2012 03:10 PM
daggo66 Towing capacity.
03-14-2012 03:08 PM
JustMike Maybe I'm not reading something right, but on the Canadian Jeep.ca website it lists the GVWR for the Sahara at 5337lbs and the Rubicon at 5448Lbs when you build it!Where's the 3500lbs you guys are talking about?
03-06-2012 12:54 PM
pkmcd99 Glad I got my cdl. Wont worry bout all the math in the Jeep. Ill just jump in the frieghtliner : P
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