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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-12-2012 04:06 AM
Jodfie ahhh ok! good morning tonk!...so is this add on bars to the OEM cage or a completely new bolt on cage?

edit: nevermind i answered my own question after researching...i like that t bar...
05-12-2012 03:01 AM
The Tonk You can actually see it bolted to the front roll cage bar
05-12-2012 02:59 AM
The Tonk One piece still. The middle cross bar is actually a rock hard bolt on cage.
05-11-2012 03:40 PM
Jodfie im still curious...did you make yours into pods or one solid peice? and if pods whats that inbetween them? the "center roof console-esk" peice
05-10-2012 09:24 PM
The Tonk
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471
Your write up is top notch.

Your pictures are sad.

What roll cage is that?
I believe it's a Smittybilt SRC 5 piece. The previous owner installed it.
05-10-2012 09:20 PM
The Tonk Hopefully this weekend I can snap more pics. I wasn't even thinking when it all started.
05-10-2012 06:44 PM
Aviator Please post more detail pics. Love the idea and hope to see more. Thx!
05-10-2012 05:53 PM
nick50471 Your write up is top notch.

Your pictures are sad.

What roll cage is that?
05-10-2012 01:08 PM
The Tonk
OEM Speaker Bar Project

Mods, I did not search if this was ever done. It probably has so delete if necessary. If not, here are the steps I did to make my sound bar. A lot of people have been asking me if I bought these. No, I like saving my money for better mods. If I can jimmy rig something, I probably will. Enjoy!



Tools:
- Angle Grinder with a metal cut off disk
- Reciprocating saw (Sawzall). If you get smaller cut off disks (less that 4"), you can use that instead.
- Drill with the correct size bit for your speaker screws and the mounting screws.
- Tap and die set (ghetto way is getting quality self tapping bolts and pray that it is stronger than the metal tubes).

- A buddy to shoot the shit with, a girl to admire your work, and a 12 pack of your choice of beer .

Prepping:
Being OCD, I make sure I measure 1 million times, then cut. With that said, I completely disregarded my natural tendencies making this bar. This was more of a test than anything. The bar consists of 2 stamped metal sheets welded together. The top part being flat (where the wires go into, and the bottom part being curved where the speakers are mounted on. Since I have no pictures, please remember this orientation.
- Unzip the protective cover from the sound bar. This is a good time to dye the cover back to black if your has faded in the sun. You can get the dye from Walmart. Make sure you get the one that you can just throw in the laundry and run a cycle while you are doing this mod. It should be done by the time all is ready to be mounted.
- Grab your speaker covers (if you are upgrading) and decide where you want to place them.
- Cut the foam so that you have a place to mount the speakers on the metal bar itself. The foam is held on by a sticky booger like material that I think is epoxy. The robots do not care where the glue is so good luck taking it off. It was a pain in the ass but if you pull quickly enough, it comes off clean. It's not bonded to the metal. The cooler the metal is, the easier it is to pull off.

What I did:
1) Measure the cross bar's width and divide by 2. Give yourself about a 1/2" on each side for the bar cover thickness.

2) Measure out the number you got from Step 1 from the bottom center of the bar (middle of the light box) going outwards.

3) Cut the bar.
a) If you are making pods cut all the way through. Watch for the speaker wires and the wire for the dome light if you want to preserve the OEM wiring. They are decent sized wires and can be used for the new speakers. Also, leave a 1" lip so that you can bolt it down to the cross bar. Just remember that you will lose the use of the speaker bar cover if you make pods.
b) If you want to keep this as a single piece that spans from the driver side to the passenger side, cut till the top section of the bar and just cut off the bottom section. This will keep the wires intact and still glued on the bar to be reused for the new speakers.

4) Start cutting the holes for your new speakers. Again, rule of thumb. Measure 1 million times, cut once. You only have one bar. I placed the 1" tweeter first, then the 6.5", and finally the 4". Once the holes are cut, drill the mounting holes.

5) Test fit the speakers to make sure they fit. I would suggest to blow out all the shrapnel before test fitting. Unless you like metal shavings on your magnet.

6) Wire the speaker wires. I wired the 3 driver side speakers in parallel to the stock wire. Do the same for the passenger side. Since we cut out the dome light, I have ordered 2x 20 LED dome light replacements. Once those come in I will wire those to the dome light wiring so I can have better lighting in the cab.

7) Pull everything out. Time to weld on a piece of metal to enclose the speaker bar. I have yet to do this because 1, I do not have a welder nor have I ever welded before and 2, it a MFing jeep.

8) The bar cover should be done. One hopes you moved it to the dryer or hung it up to dry . Zip the cover back on the bar.

9) The hole for the 6.5" just needs slits cut so they fold into the bar. I cut the 4" and the tweeter holes in an asterisk pattern. This will allow the cover to fold into the bar and if you accidentally cut the hole too big, it will fill in the gap.

10) Mount all your speakers back in and make sure you hook up the wires. This is a good time to test your speakers to see if they work. Just turn on your jeep and plug the bar back in.

11) Mount the bar on the roll cage. The tubes in the front are a smaller diameter than the back ones so a little love is needed to bend the mounting point to the bar. Drill in 2 holes on the bar and tap it for the right size. I reused my bolts from the back.
a) If you made pods from the bar, drill 2 mounting holes for the cross bar. You will need to find bolts for these. I did not make pods so this is all on you.
b) if you kept the bar as a single piece, the sound bar cover will squish up in between the cross bar and the top part of the sound bar. This is ok. I see this as squeak/rattle prevention for the future. You can also drill 2 holes to securely mount the bar on the cross bar but I did not think this was needed.

12) Extend the pigtail so that it reaches the female side on the sound bar. You can get some black wire channels to hide the wires and zip tie it to the bar. Or if you still have your bar covers (I still have to get the custom covers from quadratec for my cage) you can run it under there.

13) Plug it all in and enjoy music whilst topless.

Please be aware that you are responsible for your own stupidity. I definitely was (see the crappy placement of the speakers). This was a fun cheap project that only took a couple of hours measuring and cutting. Please for the love of god use protection. If anything get some goggles or at least use your sunglasses. Metal shavings in your eye is no joke. This is what mine turned out as.


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