|06-26-2012 01:10 PM|
|cphilip||Now that I have had some time to get back to it... don't think the Sub is operational. But I got all four speaker sets working well. So the sound is better.|
|06-26-2012 11:11 AM|
|lee indy||the PO on my CJ5 must have been a plumber. lets just say i ordered all new stuff from painless and did it myself and it was still a pain.|
|06-26-2012 10:48 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||Lol you think that's bad, you should see mine po was the devil|
|06-26-2012 10:27 AM|
I think I got it. Still not 100% sure there wasn't a dead stretch of wire that caused them to do this but I bypassed that section with new wire just to eliminate that possibility.
I was just certain (wrongly) that the start of this disaster would be behind the radio. Surprisingly not. There was no tapped or cut wiring there like I expected. In fact, I don't think a White with Blue stripe even originates there. So I put all that back in and went and started following it where I left off yesterday
Under the foot well of the drivers side where it disappears up under the dash. I saw that is came suspiciously close to that front drivers side Speaker so I took that dash section out and removed the speaker but found no tapped wire into that speaker either.
But low and behold, right next to the steering column, was this big white plug and originating from it was a short piece of white with blue stripe wire that they had piggy backed onto with, get this, three more short pieces of thin speaker wire joined together to run no more than a foot!
So... I eliminated that and made complete runs with good crimp connections using Blue (didn't have White with Blue) 12 Ga wire and presto! It all works.
And I even think the Sub might be working but not sure yet. I did leave that run over to it that they seemed to have done as I suspect they had somehow pulled this or damaged it all in some way doing something I cannot fathom why. But since it did have a White with Blue wire I am pretty sure it had to originally be in that loop for some reason. Perhaps some lame accessory install or something caused them to remove it and then badly reattach it? Who knows.
This White with Blue Stripe wire appears to originate from the main bundle under the steering column so what it exactly is I do not know. A relay or something to the Sub too? Then why does it also power the rear right speaker too? I don't quite get it... yet.
|06-25-2012 08:02 PM|
I think I will attempt to do that. But... problem is... I got nothing at the sub to return too. I can return the other wires depending on what I find behind the Head unit tomorrow... and see what I got then. Hopefully will have the right rear speaker then.
But at the sub... there is no abandoned wire to reattach. There is just that stub of a piece coming out of the plug. Nothing laying there to reattach. I guess it could be overlooked so I will hunt it down. .
Could be it was light Grey with Blue stripe... but I am pretty sure it was White. Will confirm tomorrow.
I'll throw the charger on the good camera on tonight and maybe take some pictures. That might help.
|06-25-2012 07:46 PM|
Geeeze, I am a bit dyslexic, I fear! I was looking at the diagram for a blue wire with a white stripe, but after looking at your post, it's a white wire with a blue stripe, right? Could this white actually be grey? The right rear positive lead comes from the radio as blue/white, but then changes to grey/blue to run to the sub and rear speaker. There are only two wires that carry positive dc voltage to your sub, the remote turn on and the ignition feed. The sub amp's main power feed is listed as a back/red wire, the radio turn-on lead, which is listed as a light green wire, and the ground which should be a black/white wire. The other 8 wires going into the sub are all high-level input wires. These should show variable AC voltage with music playing on your radio. Can you confirm that there are only 11 wires running into your sub?
If it were me, I would probably just return everything to factory spec and see where that gets you. Cut out any hack-job wiring that the PO has been so gracious to leave you with, and reconnect the factory wiring the way it was originally if possible. Once it's all back to factory and not hacked, you can use the process of elimination to determine why the sub isn't working. I install auto electronics for a living, and let me tell you, I have seen some headaches!
|06-25-2012 07:36 PM|
This is very funny to me. I used to be a hobbyist stereo installer. That's an awfully thin wire for a sub wire! LOL
I ran 0 gauge (or was it 4 gauge? I don't remember) from the battery to the distribution block, then stiffening caps, then distribution blocks, then the amps, stepping down to 8 gauge wiring at the outgoing end of the distribution blocks out to the amps. Then, I would run I believe 8 gauge wiring to the sub and 10 gauge wiring to the speakers up front. I made my own connectors from Radio shack parts and cut the plastic part off crimps before crimping AND soldering onto wires where they were needed. Seats were taken out, carpet out as well, and new wiring from the head unit to the back as well. This was in a car I owned years ago. It's been 12 years since I've done any stereo hobbying. I don't need it anymore, either, as I can plug my hearing aids into my phone and completely bypass problems with noise laws, power issues, and frequency holes inherent in a given vehicle's design, with much better sound quality as well. It's really not that much cheaper to do it the new way, either, with hearing aids running above a thousand apiece!
Disclaimer - my Jeep stereo is completely stock, and I don't even use it except when friends ride with me. Don't come looking to see what I got...
|06-25-2012 07:21 PM|
Let me dig back into it tomorrow and be certain of my lay out and then post back.
I see a cut but short piece of white blue coming out of that big plug that plugs into the Sub. Its the only wire they cut there. They had then jumped that over to the White blue they had found in the bundle running past the Driver seat floor.
Then they had this other wire that comes from under the dash (also showing hot DCV) that I don't know where it starts from yet, hooked into the White Blue (that is also independently hot when disconnected so must also be feeding back?) that is then going towards the rear...
... so they also had this jumper from that over to that short piece of white blue off the Sub plug via running it under the drivers seat carpet to the sub. It does not run there naturally that way I don't think. I cannot see an abandoned wire there. But I see a factory insert into the plug with about two inches of that White Blue wire in it. Appears to be original.
They had abandoned the rest of the white blue near the drivers door frame... that came from forward of the wiring harness (towards the dash) that shows no power at all. This makes me think this circuit died or got cut some point and this was what they wanted to fix.
But then why the connection back to the Sub?
I will now have to back and verify that plug wire was white blue at the Sub... but I think it was. That bundle that plugs into the sub appear to carry a lot of wires. Not sure they all service the sub.
|06-25-2012 07:07 PM|
The blue with white stripe is your right rear speaker's positive lead in the soundbar, but it changes color when it leaves the soundbar, so this may not be the same wire you have tapped. I would use a multi-meter to check for continuity between the suspect wire and your right rear speaker wire; if it is the speaker lead and you have DC voltage on it, there's your problem. Trace it around to locate a short or find some more interesting wiring gifts from your PO.
Does the blue/white wire run to the center console sub's connector(under the front cupholders)? On the diagram I'm looking at, there are no blue/white wires running to the sub, the right rear speaker's positive input should be a grey/blue wire there. The factory sub's amp is just fed by the four channel amplified signal from your deck and amplifies it a bit further before feeding into the sub itself. If the wire your PO hacked up is the right rear speaker lead, that would explain why you don't have a rear speaker working; though I am not too clear why they would have hacked this in the first place.
If you can give me a bit more detailed of a description as to what is connected where and to what, I can give you some more direction; I have access to ALLDATA diagrams and am experienced with 12v electrical.
|06-25-2012 05:56 PM|
|O_M_Jeep||when I bought mine the PO had wired the speaker ground to the lights wire so when the stereo was on the lights (and alternator) pulsed, I ended up rewiring the entire system and fixing the "alarm system with remote start, but it doesnt work" wiring, thats the beauty of a used vehicle, they arent selling it because they love it.|
|06-25-2012 05:49 PM|
I just wish I knew what the problem was they were trying to solve so I could reverse engineer their solution. Now I got to figure out what they broke too while trying to solve whatever it was
My first instinct is the Sub was out and they tried to piggy back off one speaker to make it work again? Or perhaps one wire was broken and they tried to piggy back off something to get it working. All I know is one rear speaker is now out and the sub is not working. And the connection between what used to be the White with Blue stripe wire is central to the problem I face. I hope the rear of the radio is going tell me something tomorrow. And I can probably run some test wires direct to each component and figure something out.
|06-25-2012 05:27 PM|
|pickupman2500||same problem here guy put in like 3 instal kit wire harnesses and and 2 amp kits. one remote was running under my feet. good thing i looked because it was smoked.|
|06-25-2012 04:25 PM|
|monkeee2002||LoL! Yikes! Good luck.....|
|06-25-2012 04:12 PM|
I don't see the problem...
j/k My CJ has a wire going to the distributor that says "power windows" on it. Can't wait to chew into that rat's nest.
|06-25-2012 04:12 PM|
|Dextreme||LOL - Copper is expensive now....the PO probably pieced sections together based on what he had in a shop drawer. "Aw...it will work fine."|
|06-25-2012 03:54 PM|
OMFG! look what my PO left me to solve...
That Sirs, and Madame's is just one short run of wire that the PO (probably her boy friend) crafted to try and solve either the blown Sub or maybe a speaker out in the rear right. Thats like four pieces of wire used to go about 3 feet!
I started in today to figure out why all the screws were missing on the inside of the center console except for two that were so buggered up I had to drill them out. I also was going to start in on the Sub which was dead when I bought it. I had figured that the PO had made a lame attempt to gain access to it. Little did I know that they had at some point figured out not to go in that route but had gotten in.
They had snipped a White with Blue stripe wire off the main plug into the sub. And the wire then was gone and they had used some of this stuff to run it over under the driver seat to the bundle along the side wall, cut into that same White with Blue stripe wire again, jumped off it and left the end going towards the front done and then run, again, a wire towards the front. This mess then disappears up under the dash. Has DC Voltage both coming from it and the Blue with White stripe wire back there in the bundle also has Voltage coming from it, both when key on and radio on.
It appears the used whatever wire they could find in like 8" pieces and kept splicing it and splicing it... twisting it and then, in some cases, covering it with a little electrical tape. Its both speaker wire and then a piece of like 14ga electrical wire ... then speaker wire again... and so on.
I replaced the wires back in long single pieces but almost as they had with exception of joining this one hot wire coming from the dash (for now and until I can trace it all the way back to the radio) with good wire as best I could, eliminating all these splices and haven't got the time to continue today.
It looks like I am just going to have to pull the radio and see what they did back there first before I proceed with any plan and try and figure out what they did. I bet I am going to just have to rewire the whole thing. Possible the entire system for that matter. And likely replace the Sub and at perhaps at least one speaker.