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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-04-2012 06:54 AM
DJL2 Hey, one inch is a significant increase - at least to an engineer =).

Oh, of note, it was like showing up to a party where everyone wears the same costume yesterday - so many OME shocks around. We had a group of five or so and OME shocks were on three of our trucks, for example.
11-03-2012 09:11 PM
sneck
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL2 View Post
As to the shock travel...well, it's better than my stock shocks, so I cannot complain.
Well no, its not really. I love love love OME kits, so don't get me wrong. But they are an overland kit, not a crawling kit. So even though its a 2" lift, its less than an 1" longer travel then stock. But they ride sooooo nice
11-03-2012 05:50 PM
DJL2 Sneck, I'm running OME coils (619 in front, 618 out back) and shocks (60066 up front, 60067 out back). The springs are significantly stiffer than stock, so I think the smaller bumps are a little more noticeable to her at around town speeds. To me, the JK definitely corners flatter.

The shocks are great, so far. Marina and I went out to Uwharrie NF today with some fellow forum members. It was a great time, but also a great opportunity to shake the rig down. The OME shocks did a great job of controlling pitch and roll during the ride today. We primarily worked around Dutch John and Daniel - it was as good a test as any, because running out at "URE" is what prompted me to lift my JK in the first place. It did exactly what I wanted and gave me the clearance I needed to get over and around the place.

I definitely have some work to do in terms of line selection and driving accuracy, but with some good spotting things went fairly well. I did managed to scratch and/or gouge my LCA frame mounts, exhaust (in two places), fuel tank skid, t-case skid and maybe one or two things I cannot remember at present. 35" tires would add some added "goof" room, for sure, but there are two things to note here - one, as I said, better driving would have prevented some of it and, two, at stock height some of those "oops" moments would have been catastrophically (or at least superficially) bad.

As to the shock travel...well, it's better than my stock shocks, so I cannot complain.
11-02-2012 03:57 PM
sneck
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL2 View Post

@ DB - yes, again, my wife drove it for the first time post lift yesterday. When she came home she had a few remarks:

- She doesn't really appreciate the added stability while cornering
- Bumps are more noticeable to her now
- She can still get in without trouble (I swear her legs must be longer than mine)
- Lastly, the tires look small and it would be good to get a bigger set

Her driving style is a little more aggressive than mine in some respects. She is used to our 335i - and she drives everything like she drives our 335i on a subconscious level until she spends enough time in it to adapt. Thus, when she drives we average perhaps 17 mpg or so (maybe even less) and when I drive we average 18.5-19 mpg. She gets into the skinny pedal hard when the JKUR doesn't go like she wants. While the Jeep isn't slow, it is nowhere near as quick as a 3600 lb vehicle with more power and torque.
interesting she notices the bumps more, does she mean she aims for bumps to hit, or that the ride is harsher? i think almost every review ive read of OME is that it is the king of plush; it would be hands down the best shock/spring combo if it wernt for its terrible shock travel length! what springs did you get? I know I loved my OME setup at the 2" standard 4door springs, and I still love the ride with the 4" super HD springs (although I wouldnt mind something a bit plusher when traveling around 10 mph!)
11-02-2012 02:39 PM
Dick Blonov Found this reference on torque values.


DB
11-02-2012 01:40 PM
Hilldweller
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Blonov View Post
Good point. Wicking compound? Like green lock-tite?

Just found this. Not sure how reliable it is, but interesting for sure!



DB
Yeah, Green --- #290.

I thought there were others too but I'm going from memory. I went to the Loctite page and I don't find more...
11-02-2012 12:55 PM
Dick Blonov Good point. Wicking compound? Like green lock-tite?

Just found this. Not sure how reliable it is, but interesting for sure!



DB
11-02-2012 12:45 PM
Hilldweller Permatex has always famously alledged that there is 0% friction change ---- which I find hard to swallow.
The product is wet, slippery. The fastener moves more easily until the product is dry.

Now, just how slippery is it? 10%? 20%?

Is is safer to just apply a wicking type threadlock compound?
11-02-2012 12:35 PM
Dick Blonov Permatex says re-assemble parts using normal torque values?

DB
11-02-2012 12:21 PM
Hilldweller
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Why does anti seize change the torque rating?
Until it dries it's the same as grease. Wet and slippery.

Same reason that anti-seize on a sparkplug often leads to a broken plug.
11-02-2012 10:56 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL2
@ KJ - yeah, that's my concern...125 lb-ft WITH anti-seize is likely to be the equivalent of significantly more than 150 lb-ft...I might need to talk to the guys at Permatex on that and get their take. Sent an e-mail to JKS about it, haven't seen anything back yet.

@ DB - yes, again, my wife drove it for the first time post lift yesterday. When she came home she had a few remarks:

- She doesn't really appreciate the added stability while cornering
- Bumps are more noticeable to her now
- She can still get in without trouble (I swear her legs must be longer than mine)
- Lastly, the tires look small and it would be good to get a bigger set

Her driving style is a little more aggressive than mine in some respects. She is used to our 335i - and she drives everything like she drives our 335i on a subconscious level until she spends enough time in it to adapt. Thus, when she drives we average perhaps 17 mpg or so (maybe even less) and when I drive we average 18.5-19 mpg. She gets into the skinny pedal hard when the JKUR doesn't go like she wants. While the Jeep isn't slow, it is nowhere near as quick as a 3600 lb vehicle with more power and torque.
Why does anti seize change the torque rating?
11-02-2012 10:53 AM
DJL2 @ KJ - yeah, that's my concern...125 lb-ft WITH anti-seize is likely to be the equivalent of significantly more than 150 lb-ft...I might need to talk to the guys at Permatex on that and get their take. Sent an e-mail to JKS about it, haven't seen anything back yet.

@ DB - yes, again, my wife drove it for the first time post lift yesterday. When she came home she had a few remarks:

- She doesn't really appreciate the added stability while cornering
- Bumps are more noticeable to her now
- She can still get in without trouble (I swear her legs must be longer than mine)
- Lastly, the tires look small and it would be good to get a bigger set

Her driving style is a little more aggressive than mine in some respects. She is used to our 335i - and she drives everything like she drives our 335i on a subconscious level until she spends enough time in it to adapt. Thus, when she drives we average perhaps 17 mpg or so (maybe even less) and when I drive we average 18.5-19 mpg. She gets into the skinny pedal hard when the JKUR doesn't go like she wants. While the Jeep isn't slow, it is nowhere near as quick as a 3600 lb vehicle with more power and torque.
11-01-2012 10:39 AM
kjeeper10 Per poly the grade 8 bolts can be torqued to 150 ft lbs,
11-01-2012 10:32 AM
Dick Blonov Looks good! I see new shoes in your future

DB
11-01-2012 10:27 AM
DJL2
More Photos, some additional notes...





I made some quick measurements...not apples to apples with stock, because I do have an Oly 500 series bumper, but - ground to bumper in the rear is 23 inches, in the front is 22 inches (although there is some error in there...again, that was my super accurate tailor's tape). That last photo is my Rubi next to a colleague's Rubi - I forgot to double check if he is running OE springs w/o spacers...next time I'll take a low angle shot to highlight the running height difference, but I was starting to feel like a creeper.

Yes, I acknowledge I am not good at Jeep glamour shots...at some point, I will find somewhere to take the obligatory "flex" pic.
11-01-2012 08:27 AM
DJL2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Blonov View Post
Oops. 2012 I looked at mine again and I think you also need to remove (or maybe just lift) the battery tray out of the way.

DB
I am reasonably certain I was removing parts of the battery tray - there is a lot of plastic bracing material under there.

I am still working on a proper glamour shot, but you can at least look at my Jeep sitting in the parking lot at work.



Look at how tiny those tires are! Also, you can see the JKS logo on the track bar and the OME shock of course...clever marketing!

I did the adjustable sway bar links with a buddy's help last night. Air tools make things WAY easier and the grinding/cutting wheel was not ideal for the actual cutting, but the "connector" was smooth and threaded up with no issues. The OE rears were, wait for it, almost precisely the perfect length for the lifted front.

I was thinking of trying to talk my dealer ship into a 5-tire rotation and a nice inspection of all the suspension bolts (for torque) for one of the free services that came with my new JK - I have been doing my own work and it seems a shame to waste four free services.

The important bit - where does my JKS sticker go? =)
10-31-2012 01:44 PM
Dick Blonov Oops. 2012 I looked at mine again and I think you also need to remove (or maybe just lift) the battery tray out of the way.

DB
10-31-2012 01:10 PM
Matador
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dick Blonov View Post
Remove the airbox

DB
Is this true for 2012 models? When I did an install on a 2012 we had to cut away at the liner. I then discovered that jeep redesigned the liner for 2013 models and now there is an opening similar to the driver's side, not as much but enough to get the job done. But, the airbox is a much better approach and good to know if it does apply to 2012 models.
10-31-2012 01:01 PM
Dick Blonov
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJL2 View Post

Unless you have the hands of a small child, you will not be able to work in the space above the shock on the front passenger corner. I ended up grabbing my dremel and doing some cutting and grinding of the plastic bits to afforded myself just enough room to get everything back together. I'd be interested to know of a more elegant/patient solution.
Remove the airbox

DB
10-31-2012 11:52 AM
kramer2k
Quote:
Originally Posted by pluke the 2 View Post
and if you have any pictures, i'd like to see your jeep...
+1
10-31-2012 11:46 AM
pluke the 2 And if you have any pictures, I'd like to see your jeep...
10-31-2012 11:42 AM
pluke the 2 Well. First. Let me you tell you that I have owned many different JK's and I have had first had experience with Long Arms and Short Arms from different suspension companies. OME has the quality and customer service that is second to none.

Second, you're an engineer, engineers over engineer and they waste a lot of time on small details. I work with many different types of engineers every single day.


Third. Great review on the overall install. I understood most if not everything. So i'll try to answer your questions.

1.) JKS (and others) highlight the importance of cranking the jam nut into place on their adjustable track bar to lock in the adjustment. Given that the track bar cannot twist in circles (fastened at both ends)...how exactly is it going to change length while it's mounted on your Jeep?

The JKS Trackbar is a threaded sleeve and stud screwed together. The threads can get damaged if the jam nut isn't properly secured resisting it's movement. The Jam Nut will reduce force applied to the threads while the suspension moves. You can strip the threads if you do not properly secure this nut.


2.) JKS specs anti-seize, but keeps the factory torque spec...that's a lot of torque on those bolts and mounts. I wonder what the propensity to shear bolts is (specifically, Grade 8 9/16), if any?

Not sure on this one. But if you torque it to specifications, assuming both are the same thread types, than you should be ok... I think fine thread botls are the same regardless of the type of material used. You wouldn't torque a course thread at a rated torque specification as the same a fine thread bolt...

3.) How much do the rear shocks move at the upper mount and can that potentially damage the shock? They're only toqued at 37 lb-ft (not much).

They shouldn't be moving at all assuming you have them properly centered and torqued to the right specification. I'd also use locktite here.

4.) Why does Jeep clamp the brake lines with so much slack on the caliper side when that could facilitate articulation on the chassis side? Why are there so many ties/fasteners for the wiring? I yanked some just to drop the axle enough to get the OME springs in.
I don't care for Jeep Engineering, but lots of aftermarket suspension instructions - instruct you un-clip these fasteners and zip tie them appropriately.
10-31-2012 10:35 AM
DJL2
OME 2" lift thoughts, notes, miscellany

No, this is not really a new topic. Many an esteemed member of this forum used or uses this lift. However, judging by the fact that no one uses the search function (mostly), this will probably be new to someone. Additionally, it'll help me kill some time organize my thoughts and solicit some feedback and ID faults before something important falls off my Jeep. Feel free to come along for the ride...or just tune this out, it won't hurt my feelings.

I ordered from the guys at Northridge 4x4 via phone. We talked about the project a little, I opted for the kit and upgraded to the Nitrocharger Sport shocks. Though we discussed my Jeep and my objective we didn't get into specific part numbers...this led to some interesting surprises for me later on.

The kit was delivered in three packages (trackbars stapled and taped together, coils stapled and taped together, shocks and miscellany boxed) via UPS and free to me. I looked at my shocks and they were the expected 60066 and 60067. I check my coils and had part numbers 2619 and 2618. I probably could have gotten by with 2617 in the rear - my constant load is not 150 kgs. Surprise one. I had to double check the catalog to find 2619 - spec'd for Diesel JK's it has the intermediate spring rate of the 2616 and 2628 specified for petrol JKs, but it's longer. Surprise two. I assume Northridge specs the 2619 in their kit in order to level (or partially so) the Jeep. What's it all mean?

When my front coils came off, they measued around 17 3/4, 17 7/8 inches or so ('18 series springs).

The OME front springs measued about 20 1/4 going in (which is exactly the height they're spec'd at).

When my rear coils came off, they measued around 14 1/2 inches (59 series springs).

The OME rear coils measued about 18 inches going in which leads me to believe I measued incorrectly - that value doesn't really meet the common sense test (they're spec'd at 17 1/8). I'm inclined to believe on observation of the Jeep that they were very close specified height, so that's what I'm working with now.

So, I added a 2 1/2 longer spring to the front and a 2 5/8 long spring to the rear. However, both springs are stiffer than the factory parts. So, while I have 2.5 inches of extra spring length to work with, I'm actually seeing a little more than that in running ground clearance. Using my super accurate tailor's tape, the lowest hanging bits (stock skids) are about 12.5 inches off the deck. So, I should enjoy a nice increase in my break over angle...which was the point of the exercise in the first place in large measure.

The JKS track bar goes in with my Northridge 4x4 replacement bolts...which is good because the stock bolts are not just fully threaded, but a different diameter as well. You can bolt up the chassis mount and then adjust the track bar and match it to the axle mount which saves time. A little ratchet strap (rated for a few thousand pounds, used to move my motorcycle) is fine for shifting things around to get the track bar mounted. Getting an f'in wrench on the bolt (particularly in the rear) for the trackbar axle mount - miserable. Jeep had a stellar idea when they welded on the flange to those bolts so they self-secured while you tightened them. This should be the standard for these bolts.

Miscellany -
If you put anti-seize on a stock bolt, remember to reduce your torque accordingly. I sheared a bolt head because I used an incorrect torque value (over spec for dry...waaaaaay over spec for a bolt with anti-seize). That's a pain and Jeep WILL hose you if you need to order bolts/fasteners from them.

Unless you have the hands of a small child, you will not be able to work in the space above the shock on the front passenger corner. I ended up grabbing my dremel and doing some cutting and grinding of the plastic bits to afforded myself just enough room to get everything back together. I'd be interested to know of a more elegant/patient solution.

Don't forget to loosen brake line brackets, ESP wiring and anything else that is mounted to both the wheel/brakes and frame...otherwise you'll droop the axle until those items (wires, brake lines) are taking the weight instead of the jack. Oh, yeah, lift the Jeep however you want, but you're going to want a jack under the diff once there's effectively nothing but brake lines, wiring and breather tubes holding it on the vehicle.

Figuring out the right reference points to center the track bars/axles can be tough. I'm still not sure I did it right...but we'll see. Re-centering the steering is the easiest part of the entire process, so no reason to skip it.

Subjective assessments -
Folks talk about how the ride compares to stock and I'm not able to say as yet (had it on a day). Generally, I think this boils down to bump compliance for most people. I don't really notice any additional harshness. I would rate my Rubi's ride as "OK" before and it's "OK" now.

Steering hasn't really changed much to the feel of things. It might help that I spent three weeks in Louisiana not driving my Jeep. At this time, steering feel or stability doesn't seem like an issue.

Cornering is much improved. Honestly, the OME coils and shocks are almost dangerous in that they make it easy to forget your Jeep is now significantly higher. The stiffer spring and the shocks keep the body a lot more controlled during cornering, they greatly reduce the Jeep's tendency to wallow and roll. That ought to help with my wife's occasional discomfort during more spirited driving.

Over all, the Jeep is more pleasant to drive.

I have a 30 inch inseam on a tall day and my Jeep is now about as tall as I can comfortably get into. ACE rock rails are starting to seem like an increasingly better idea (particularly when it's time for new tires). Inside the Jeep, I don't really notice the difference, which is a good thing.

Questions - yes, I realize some of these need to be directed to the component manufacturer.

1.) JKS (and others) highlight the importance of cranking the jam nut into place on their adjustable track bar to lock in the adjustment. Given that the track bar cannot twist in circles (fastened at both ends)...how exactly is it going to change length while it's mounted on your Jeep?

2.) JKS specs anti-seize, but keeps the factory torque spec...that's a lot of torque on those bolts and mounts. I wonder what the propensity to shear bolts is (specifically, Grade 8 9/16), if any?

3.) How much do the rear shocks move at the upper mount and can that potentially damage the shock? They're only toqued at 37 lb-ft (not much).

4.) Why does Jeep clamp the brake lines with so much slack on the caliper side when that could facilitate articulation on the chassis side? Why are there so many ties/fasteners for the wiring? I yanked some just to drop the axle enough to get the OME springs in.

Cosmetics:
The red shocks on the Rubi are a nice color, particularly since I'm an Engineer. That said, yellow has been my favorite color since I was a kleiner kind. The lift and the fact that the OME shock body seems larger than OE makes the shocks stand out. It takes a little bit of attention away from the JKS adjustable trackbar if you're into flaunting what you have. The OME coils and shocks look pretty nice out of the package. The shocks do tend to shed paint relatively easily though - it'll be interesting to see what some time off road (and on, in bad weather) does to the finish. The JKS trackbar is classy looking - robust, with a nicely finished exterior. In general JKS stuff seems to be well turned out. Some folks will remark that a lift Rubi with stock tires looks silly...I concede that may indeed be the case depending on your asthetic. It doesn't really bother me though...I'll try and hold out until I've worn out my KMs before I change to something else (I like the KMs).

I still need to swap my sway bar links...we'll see how that goes.

Well, I really beat that to death. I was hoping for something more concise, it just didn't work out that way. I suppose at some point I can post a picture and you guys can laugh at my tiny tires.

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