|09-17-2014 05:28 AM|
|Jaxon1023||Mine worked perfect|
|09-14-2014 08:56 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||They are pretty darn long. I had no issues with 3"|
|09-14-2014 08:51 PM|
|O_M_Jeep||I'm curious if the e-brake cables will work with a 4"+ lift|
|09-14-2014 08:25 PM|
|Jaxon1023||Yep that's it|
|09-14-2014 07:06 PM|
Link to the kit
|09-14-2014 06:15 PM|
|09-14-2014 06:14 PM|
Got mine all welded up with 4.88 Yukon gears and spartan locker.
|08-06-2014 10:31 PM|
|Sheklikak||I guess I didn't know the answer|
|08-06-2014 10:25 PM|
Plug the stock hole with weld. Drill and tap a hole on top of the diff and screw the old breather plug in.
Yes you will notice it. Add a taller coil or spacer to the front or add some weight to the rear in the form of a bumper or tool box. Or lighten the front somehow to help.
|08-06-2014 03:17 PM|
I already know how I sound, spazzy, but I'll ask anyway. Just some background; I wheeled with a D30/35 set up on 31's. A rougher trail than anticipated resulted in my TJ being towed home. It was just a bent main in the TC, but one thing lead to another and about 8k later I have several mods including the Ford 8.8. One special thing that I noticed is that the jeep sits like a 70's hot rod, all jacked up in the back.
Now I know that the 8.8 sits the frame about 5/8" to 3/4" higher (depending on who you talk to) but I feel my 6yr old RC budget lift springs are sagging. I was thinking 3.5" MC dual rate springs for it's smooth ride and I don't want to add a coil spacer to equal the jeep out.
My question is (and I think I already know the answer) will I really notice the slightly higher back end?
|08-06-2014 03:14 PM|
Probably a dumb question but.... I've been lurking here but am finally starting to fully assemble my own 8.8 for the install.
When lining up the truss kit we had to block the stock breather. Is there a preferred size or location for that or is it just as simple as a hole I can run a tube to? What about some of the "not used by a TJ" bolt holes on the top of the pumpkin, can I just drill that out and run a 1/4"npt there?
|07-29-2014 06:39 AM|
|07-29-2014 01:34 AM|
|Wondertwin1||Are there any brake kits out there to replace the old junkyard lines and hoses with? The old line doesn't mesh up well with my artec truss.|
|07-24-2014 04:56 AM|
Zero issues for me... But my exhaust dumps out under the pass door. Ran a new cat and high clearance muffler (hush power II) for the tummy tuck and gave me a ton of room. I feel confident however that I could have run it to the stock location.
I wouldn't change diameter but run a smaller muffler if you still have the stock one. The diff offset is very little and honestly I don't think you'll have an issue.
|07-23-2014 09:17 PM|
Wow, about 75 minutes to read this whole thread, I'm surprised at how many people ask questions that are answered several times in preceding pages, anyway, I just got my 8.8, out of a '99 Exploder, and it was clean and and a nice axle to start with.
I have wheeled my Š-35c very hard over the years, alloy shafts, Superior truss, Tru-Trac, 4.88s, and 33"s. It's worked so well for years, never an issue, but lately I find myself, late at night, to my shame, on TireRack and 4WD and other sites stealing looks and pricing 35"s and 37"s. So the Š-35c has to go, a sad day, but I'll sell all but the housing and brakes to someone who is making a trail capable DD.
I'm planning to do a ton of work on this install, Tru-Trac again (I love it where I live, snow & ice 9 months a year), truss, triangulated 4-link, air-shocks (coil-less coil-overs), fuel cell and back half.
I'm curious about just one thing (to start with anyway), I'm reading the off-set is not a huge deal, Stu Olsen covers it very well, a brazillion thanks to Stu and his contributers, but I'm wondering if I should relocate the exhaust and maybe change to a smaller diameter muffler to avoid any interference, I only saw one person post in here that the u-joint was rubbing the muffler, but I hate to find out at the last minute.
I am planning long arms and a small stretch, maybe out to 100", so I think that will solve the proximity issue (if any). Has anyone noticed any problems with the 8.8 housing being off-center?
Thanks for the input.
This is what I found delivered to my house one day, $250 for a complete assembly.
|07-10-2014 06:30 AM|
Any grease use quite sparing because you don't want in on friction surfaces
Moving points that could use grease on a drum brake
Threads in auto adjuster
Pivot point of each shoe
Inner cable to lubricate it where it slide against the housing it slides in
|07-10-2014 03:13 AM|
Ok so I got the 8.8 disassembled now, cleaned up and ready to go to shop this Saturday where they will weld the new Artec brackets and truss on.
Meantime I'm working on the brakes. I'm rebuilding the emergency brake and to do so have purchased a kit with new brake shoes and a kit with new springs etc.
Now the kit with the springs also includes a bit of 'white lithium grease'. Does anybody know what I am supposed to do with this grease / where to apply it??
Ps. when I began with this project I was really affraid it would be too difficult for my limited skills, but learning a lot along the way and the feeling of satisfaction will be awesome once the 8.8 is under my TJ
|06-28-2014 03:00 AM|
Ok thanks. Indeed does not seem very difficult....will just pull the shafts then.
First need to make some decisions on my final set-up of the drive-line....right now running dropped t-case without SYE / double cardan shaft. If I want the shop to weld the brackets correctly I do need to figure out first what I will do.....normal SYE, super short SYE, stick to stock skid plate or flat one...
It never stops does it? :-p
|06-24-2014 01:42 AM|
|fthwsrthu||Just to be clear...this isnt mine. I came across it on another site and felt that it should be passed along. Either way, it looked like it had just about every answer to the questions that are frequently asked.|
|06-22-2014 10:31 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||You can but its super hard. Crack the cover, drain it. And then pull the c clips and shafts. It's very easy. You need to undo the springs and stuff holding the e brake together and then you can unbolt the bolts holding the dust shields on.|
|06-22-2014 06:56 AM|
Probably simple question.... Trying to figure out how to disassemble the 8.8. I got the brake calipers and brake discs of but bit stuck now. Do I need to take out the axle shafts in order to get the dust shield, emergency brake etc? Or can I get all this stuff off (and cleaned up / rebuild where needed) without taking the axle shaft out (which I'd prefer)
The only bolts I can reach right now are the 4 bolts on each side at the very end of the axle tube, but all of them are really stuck. Not sure what part(s) will come off in case I do manage to unbolt these?
|06-18-2014 07:16 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||The LCAs sway bar mounts and shocks are all independent but they have good instructions on how to set them up.|
|06-18-2014 02:37 PM|
|Ryan Angela||Good info, thanks. The impression I got was that once the truss was set, everything else is a no brainer. I should know better than that by now though.|
|06-17-2014 04:40 PM|
As for the brakes, I stuck with what came in the 8.8, but I suspect the calipers might be sticking as I now hear a swush sound as the brakes getting hung up, goes away when I step on the brake pedal.
|06-17-2014 02:42 PM|
|06-17-2014 02:01 PM|
just got the tj back on the road, swapped dana 30 for a high pinion from Cherokee, the 8.8 with artec truss (DO NOT MAKE A MISTAKE WITH THE ARTEC, MISERABLE EXPERIENCE) drives straight, no vibrations, but very mushi brakes, bleed it several times, calipers in the correct position, but no matter how hard I step on the pedal, the brakes will not lock up. Pedal is had, does not feel mushi, but not very soft stopping.
|06-06-2014 07:40 AM|
|TJMARKS||limited slip would be sufficient for the wheeling you do. you wont need actuall lockers unless ur getting into big rocks or real off camber. really would be nice with the front locked and limited slip in the rear you will still be able to steer fairly well. locked at both ends really doesnt like to turn very well in 4.|
|06-05-2014 12:54 PM|
|Ryan Angela||Would it be foolish to think I can run with the limited slip that's in there and just lock the fronts? Not a daily driver, some snow and ice covered roads, mostly moderate dirt trails. Thoughts?|
|06-05-2014 12:01 PM|
|TJMARKS||just an fyi for all of you doing or considering the 8.8 swap. i have had one in my jeep for about three years now. 31 spline out of 2000 explorer with disc brakes. and the axle shafts hold up well no issues there. but as far as locker choice i would stay very far away from the eaton e locker. the elocker for 8.8 is a pin style rather than a colar and is very prone to rounding off the tips of the pins and cuasing a ratchet and eventually no lock. replaced mine once already and am about to again.|
|06-02-2014 01:18 AM|
|jeeperdad1977||I lucked up n found an 8.8 already setup gears n all in a wrecked tj. Simply swapped it over. I did however retrofit an 88 wagoneer front in my tj and referred it. I built all my own brackets( will buy next time) and set it all up. Lots of research and lots of sitting n studying what I had n what was on the web. I've been wrenching on jeeps for 13 years now. As far as tools I just make sure I have 1 of everything on the floor under jeep with me. I leave it there till I'm done with that particular project. To the untrained eye it looks like a mess but I can tell ya each n every tool n bolt laying there. Lol just my 2 cents|
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