|04-19-2013 01:37 PM|
|Square_Eyes||There ya go :-) much cheaper then what i went with and you will get them without having to deal with the numbnuts at ballistics lol|
|04-19-2013 09:48 AM|
|04-19-2013 09:44 AM|
Off-Road Fabrication Parts - RuffStuff Specialties
|04-19-2013 09:39 AM|
|Square_Eyes||The bushing i used is ballistics fab 2.63" weldable bushing they are $32 each|
|04-19-2013 09:36 AM|
|Square_Eyes||Im sure they would ill get you a phone number and the name of the guy I was working with and send you a pm|
|04-19-2013 09:31 AM|
|Thriller||Does your local shop ship cause I think that's a great price on the tabs. What size was those bushings. Again thanks for the help|
|04-18-2013 10:29 PM|
|Square_Eyes||The tabs i got from the local shop, he charged me $3 each, i got the creeper joints from that shop for $38 each. Got the bushings at ballisticsfab.com, wont order from them again but their product is great lol|
|04-18-2013 10:11 PM|
|Thriller||Nice info been wanting to do this for sometime. Where did you order the brackets and joints ? Thanks for this helpful info|
|04-18-2013 05:53 PM|
I built some traction bars this week and decided to do a little write up on building mine since i had trouble finding a decent build thread on them to begin with. I went with a two bar design after speaking to a guy i met that owns a local shop, hes running a similar set up on his CJ with 40s and a super charged V8 with around 550HP so i figured after hearing about his experiance with the traditional ladder bar set up i would build the two bar set up.
I started by building a cross member so I didnt have to attach anything to the thin stock skid plate.
The bar is 2" square tubing that is 3/16" thick that measures 42"(outside of frame rail to frame rail), I cut the ends off at a 45° angle for aesthetics, welded the tabs 10" apart for a little bit of triangulation to help with articulation and then welded the bar in place. You could weld the bar to some plate and make it bolt on but I chose to weld it to the frame for simplicity.
I built the bars out of the same material as the cross member (2"x2"x3/16"), I cut the bars at 24 1/4" long (my rear axle is set back an inch so this measurement will vary).
I used creeper joints at the cross member side. I welded the large nut to the end of the tube and did not use a lock nut on the joint so that the bar can rotate when flexing the suspention. I made sure to take my end result measurements with the creeper joint exposing about 1/4"-1/2" of threads so i have some adjustment for more lift or moving the rear axle back further.
For the axle side of the tubes I cut out the ends to fit the bushing (balistics fab weldable bushing) using a jig saw with a metal cutting blade, its not presice and needs to be cleaned up with a grinder after words for a nice fit but it gets the job done when you dont have a notcher. Easiest way to get the right curvature is to place the end of the bushing on the tube and trace it with a sharpie.
After finishing both bars I installed the bushing guts and threaded in the creeper joint and bolted it on at the cross member, I bolted the tabs to the bushing end and held it up to the axle to figure out where it was going to go on the housing. Im running a ford 9" rear axle, so picking a place to weld the tabs was a bit easier since the whole housing is once piece and I didnt have to worry about welding to cast steel. Make sure when choosing a place to mount on the axle that it is below the center line of the axle, this will keep it from rotating upwords which is the whole point of adding traction bars. I then tac welded the tabs on and removed the bar and fully welded them in. I followed the same precedure for the other side.
After welding the tabs in and greased all the joints and bushings and bolted them in using 5/8"x 4.5" long bolts and nylock nuts.
Axle wrap was eliminated and as fst as I can tell flex wasnt hindered at all! Hope this helps and thanks for reading! If you have any questions post em up and ill answer as best as I can