|01-15-2014 09:03 PM|
Is it better then to just leave the stock axles so they can be the failure point? I'm in the process of ordering chromoly axle shafts and I rather the shafts be the failure point rather than the pinion gear.
|05-27-2013 05:10 PM|
|JoabsJks||I did a test drive to eagle rock yesterday afternoon and went all the way to bull, i want to go to BV hopefully next week|
|05-27-2013 01:53 PM|
|Sinister6||Looks good! Gotta get you out on some runs!|
|05-27-2013 01:36 PM|
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|04-27-2013 09:54 PM|
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|04-11-2013 12:27 PM|
The Artec truss though, is just not that critical. Furthermore, the axle i did was not fully disassembled so preheating and welding it hot would be very risky, on top of having concerns for warping the housing in the first place.
This is what i did on the thick top plate:
Root pass: PT 185 @ 120 amps, i pulse the pedal just enough to make sure i'm getting some pen and to get it wet enough to take a good bit of fill. I used 1/16" er70 filler. I'm sure i was using well less than 120 amps.
Filler passes: Miller 252, 17.3/200 .030 wire, quick back and forth motion to fill in the rest of the gap between the top plate and housing. then a quick 'eeee' motion to fillet off the cap.
I then used the MIG to do a quick fillet of the bottom of the vert plate to the tube juncture, and then i think i only did a short 1/2" stitch up the curvature of the housing on the vert. plate.
|04-11-2013 11:37 AM|
|Rooster454||I'm finally going to do mine in the next few weeks when I get a free weekend. I've talked to a few people that have done one and hey all preheated the cast and wraped it in a welding blanket when finished to keep some good heat in it for a while. They did the tube stitch by stitch to keep it from getting too hot and warping. That's my plan as of now|
|04-11-2013 08:23 AM|
|04-10-2013 10:35 PM|
right on. If you gave it a close inspection after it fully cooled and there are no cracks, then you got nothing to worry about.
TBH, it doesn't matter that much anyways. you could probably put some tacks on it and call it good, that truss adds a reedonkulous amount of beef to that axle. if your actually gunna use half of that beef, you shoulda built a 60!
|04-10-2013 08:40 PM|
|04-10-2013 08:37 PM|
I did not pre heat too pretty much followed the same with the root passes let it cool down then I welded the truss to it, no cracks, no weird noises while they cooled down, I guess I will find out when I put 37s and a few trail rides, I read a lot of people do it this way and don't have issues. so with the limited resources I have I made it work.
|04-10-2013 04:51 PM|
|chrisfp88||Glad you finally go it all set up! But you promised me when I sold it to you complete pics. That means under the Jeep with the new diff cover! lol|
|04-10-2013 03:28 PM|
|04-10-2013 11:27 AM|
That is SUCH a slick package of parts. I welded up one of those for Bumble77 from the forum here, and I have to say it goes together really easy and adds an insane amount of strength to that setup. Can't go wrong for $250!!
Did you pre-heat for the welds on the 3rd?
I did not. I did a root pass with the TIG and then two more filler passes with MIG and let it cool down between each pass. I judged this connection as one with only moderate structural concerns and have had good luck with this "limit the heat input" approach for those applications. no cracking whatsoever.
I also did not fully weld every single junction. it just seamed excessive to do so.
|04-09-2013 09:18 PM|
|04-09-2013 09:17 PM|
I love the Artec stuff.
|04-09-2013 09:10 PM|
ARTEC TRUSS Armor Kit
Finally after 2 weekends of slowly welding im done.
waiting on new ball joints and axle bushings, inner seals. will be installed by the end of the month.