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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-28-2013 01:48 AM
rgwinn Good info,

Looking at JW Speakers or HID Projectors
11-23-2013 04:57 AM
gecko4 I agree, this procedure is for JK(U) Wranglers only, not to be taken as a general procedure for all vehicles.
11-22-2013 10:33 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by gecko4 View Post
This is the proper procedure, by the book: Tape a line on a level floor 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from and parallel to the flat wall that will be used as the lamp alignment screen. The level floor will be used as the horizontal zero reference. An adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the alignment screen can be used as the vertical zero reference. If there is no adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the screen, tape a second line on the floor perpendicular to both the alignment screen and the first line, and outboard of either side of where the vehicle will be positioned. This will be used as the vertical zero reference. Position the vehicle so that the side of the vehicle is parallel to the vertical zero reference, and so that the front of the lamp lenses are in the vertical plane of the parallel line taped on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from the screen. Rock the vehicle side-to-side three times to allow the suspension to stabilize. Jounce the front suspension three times by pushing downward on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the distance between the optical center of one of the lamps being aimed (head or fog) and the floor (horizontal zero reference). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape placed horizontally to the floor. This line will be used as the lamp horizontal reference. Measure the distance between the vertical zero reference and the optical center of the nearest lamp being aimed (head or fog). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape placed vertically across the appropriate (head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference for the first lamp. Measure the distance on center between the first and the second lamp being aimed. Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a second piece of tape placed vertically across the appropriate (head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference for the second lamp. HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT NOTE: Due to the linear nature of the headlamp cutoff, a properly aimed low beam headlamp will project the top edge of the high intensity pattern on the alignment screen from the horizontal line to 50 millimeters (2 inches) below the horizontal line for domestic market vehicles, or to 125 millimeters (5 inches) below the horizontal line for export market vehicles. No horizontal (right/left) adjustment is required for this headlamp beam pattern in domestic market vehicles. Export market vehicles have a second horizontal (right/left) adjustment screw provided. The high beam pattern will be correct when the low beams are properly aimed.

The above should be done after tire pressures are checked, and with a full tank of fuel.
Not entirely accurate, there is no one size fits all formula for this. Some cars require the aiming to be done at 15 feet, others at 33 feet. Some cars require a 1/2" deviation from headlight center @25 feet, some requre 3" at 33 feet. For a person to adjust the lights at home, they want them as horizontal (perfectly level) as possible, with a MINOR drop (1-2") to prevent oncoming traffic glare.

How to Adjust Your Headlights - Aim Your Headlights - Popular Mechanics
11-22-2013 09:48 PM
gecko4 This is the proper procedure, by the book: Tape a line on a level floor 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from and parallel to the flat wall that will be used as the lamp alignment screen. The level floor will be used as the horizontal zero reference. An adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the alignment screen can be used as the vertical zero reference. If there is no adjacent wall or floor member that is perpendicular to the screen, tape a second line on the floor perpendicular to both the alignment screen and the first line, and outboard of either side of where the vehicle will be positioned. This will be used as the vertical zero reference. Position the vehicle so that the side of the vehicle is parallel to the vertical zero reference, and so that the front of the lamp lenses are in the vertical plane of the parallel line taped on the floor 7.62 meters (25 feet) away from the screen. Rock the vehicle side-to-side three times to allow the suspension to stabilize. Jounce the front suspension three times by pushing downward on the front bumper and releasing. Measure the distance between the optical center of one of the lamps being aimed (head or fog) and the floor (horizontal zero reference). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape placed horizontally to the floor. This line will be used as the lamp horizontal reference. Measure the distance between the vertical zero reference and the optical center of the nearest lamp being aimed (head or fog). Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a piece of tape placed vertically across the appropriate (head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference for the first lamp. Measure the distance on center between the first and the second lamp being aimed. Transfer this measurement to the alignment screen with a second piece of tape placed vertically across the appropriate (head or fog) lamp horizontal reference. This is the centerline reference for the second lamp. HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT NOTE: Due to the linear nature of the headlamp cutoff, a properly aimed low beam headlamp will project the top edge of the high intensity pattern on the alignment screen from the horizontal line to 50 millimeters (2 inches) below the horizontal line for domestic market vehicles, or to 125 millimeters (5 inches) below the horizontal line for export market vehicles. No horizontal (right/left) adjustment is required for this headlamp beam pattern in domestic market vehicles. Export market vehicles have a second horizontal (right/left) adjustment screw provided. The high beam pattern will be correct when the low beams are properly aimed.

The above should be done after tire pressures are checked, and with a full tank of fuel.
11-22-2013 09:05 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKUTBFE13 View Post
Yes, I performed the work in the garage and established the center-height point of the stock lights on the wall. Used that as a reference to target the JWs. It's easy to access the adjustment screws even with the grill fully back in place.
Contrary to popular belief, is is NOT the correct way to adjust headlights. The correct method is as follows...

1) park your jeep where your headlight is 20' away from a wall on level ground.
2) measure (at the jeep) the height of the center point (bulb) of the headlight to the floor. Record measurement.
3) go to the wall with your headlights on, and mark out the same height from step 2 but subtract 2". Make a tape line.
4) adjust headlights to hit that tape line.

Done.

Your original headlight aim is irrelevant. Same goes for lifted vehicles, the original center point on the wall is irrelevant.
11-22-2013 08:41 PM
JKUTBFE13 Yes, I performed the work in the garage and established the center-height point of the stock lights on the wall. Used that as a reference to target the JWs. It's easy to access the adjustment screws even with the grill fully back in place.
11-22-2013 05:15 AM
RubiChick
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKUTBFE13 View Post
I installed JW Speakers in my 2013 JKU in about 45 minutes without taking the grill completely off (only disconnected the top tabs and the turn signal tabs). Would have taken less time with the grill completely off but my bumper light bar was in the way of pulling it all the way off. The only other component that isn't in the 8700 Evo box is the H4 to H13 harness which many retailers provide either with the purchase or for an additional charge, so be sure to check the fine print before completing an order. The same applies to Trucklites as they also need a conversion harness to be "plug and play".
Have you tried adjusting the aim on your JW?
11-21-2013 08:14 PM
gecko4 I installed the trucklites last night. I couldn't believe how out of adjustment my headlights were. I noticed, during the install, one headlight didn't seem to be positioned properly, even before I removed the factory lights. After the install, I took the jeep for a spin, and had an extreme bright spot just in front of the jeep. I pulled it up to a wall, the left headlight was pointed down, and to the right of centre. After the adjustment, the bright spot was gone, and the light was dispersed more evenly in front of the jeep. Much better lights than stock.
11-21-2013 07:16 PM
JKUTBFE13 I installed JW Speakers in my 2013 JKU in about 45 minutes without taking the grill completely off (only disconnected the top tabs and the turn signal tabs). Would have taken less time with the grill completely off but my bumper light bar was in the way of pulling it all the way off. The only other component that isn't in the 8700 Evo box is the H4 to H13 harness which many retailers provide either with the purchase or for an additional charge, so be sure to check the fine print before completing an order. The same applies to Trucklites as they also need a conversion harness to be "plug and play".
11-21-2013 10:35 AM
aggie84 are the jw easy to install?
i drive 2013 jku is there any other things that i should buy?
10-25-2013 05:53 PM
JK-linux
Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
I recommend 55w and 6000k. That will burn almost white. If you run 35w I'd stick with 4300-5000 (5000 almost no one makes.)

Also, led headlights produce heat at the rear of the housing but the front (lens) doesn't heat up, so you will have buildup issues. HIDs run warm enough to warm the front lens and keep the buildup from freezing.
Thanks for the input. Most appreciated!
10-25-2013 05:13 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by JK-linux View Post
I'm looking at placing an order with hidprojectors.com. Does anyone with a JK and HID lighting have a preference on Kelvin color between 4300K and 5000K? I'd like crisper white, but have no interest in bling, blue colors, looking like a Lexus or impressing anyone who would actually be impressed with the color of my headlights. For reference, I had a 2008 Dodge Charger with OEM Bi-Xenon HIDs and liked that color very much. Thanks! Follow up question: do the hidprojectors produce more heat/warmth than LED lighting? I live in the semi-cold North (Minnesota) and figured Trucklites might not take to the sustained wet 10 degree winter weather as well as something that gives off a little heat. (Resurecting old thread since some folks here apparently run hidprojectors.com lighting)
I recommend 55w and 6000k. That will burn almost white. If you run 35w I'd stick with 4300-5000 (5000 almost no one makes.)

Also, led headlights produce heat at the rear of the housing but the front (lens) doesn't heat up, so you will have buildup issues. HIDs run warm enough to warm the front lens and keep the buildup from freezing.
10-25-2013 10:52 AM
RubiChick I have the JW speakers headlights and I totally love them. I didn't like how the TL's and that's mainly why I got the JW.
10-25-2013 09:35 AM
numbah1 I've had Truck-Lites for a couple of months now and they're light years ahead from the stock halogens. For the money I'm glad I didn't go w/ JW Speaker and get the same performance for twice the money.
10-25-2013 09:05 AM
JK-linux I'm looking at placing an order with hidprojectors.com. Does anyone with a JK and HID lighting have a preference on Kelvin color between 4300K and 5000K? I'd like crisper white, but have no interest in bling, blue colors, looking like a Lexus or impressing anyone who would actually be impressed with the color of my headlights. For reference, I had a 2008 Dodge Charger with OEM Bi-Xenon HIDs and liked that color very much.
Thanks!

Follow up question: do the hidprojectors produce more heat/warmth than LED lighting? I live in the semi-cold North (Minnesota) and figured Trucklites might not take to the sustained wet 10 degree winter weather as well as something that gives off a little heat.

(Resurecting old thread since some folks here apparently run hidprojectors.com lighting)
07-11-2013 01:43 PM
InvertChaos
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrWardner View Post
I've debated all of these options. I actually have a brand new set of HID's from theretrofitsource.com, but haven't installed them because I've been wanting to get some jw's. truck lite seems like a great option too because they are so much cheaper than jw.
I just got the Morimoto Mini H1 kit from theretrofitsource.com and will be installing them in my TJ. Which ones did you get?
07-10-2013 03:41 PM
DrWardner I've debated all of these options. I actually have a brand new set of HID's from theretrofitsource.com, but haven't installed them because I've been wanting to get some jw's. truck lite seems like a great option too because they are so much cheaper than jw.
07-08-2013 10:58 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
Cool, I will look into his kit, along with the slim ballasts. The HIDs sure have a great beam pattern.
Go figure, the ones that are not "street legal" have the best spread, the best effective distance, and the best controlled scatter. Shows you how much DOT compliant means. I have driven cross country twice, and the ONLY time I got pulled over (in Colorado) for my headlights was a cop with a Jeep asking me where I got them.
07-08-2013 09:39 PM
HK_Runner Cool, I will look into his kit, along with the slim ballasts. The HIDs sure have a great beam pattern.
07-08-2013 09:24 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
I think you may be right. However, I need to find a really high-quaity setup with high-end ballasts and bulbs. I don't want to deal with those burning out constantly. Any recommendations?
I have had no problems with mine. My bulbs are the ones Tom provides with the kit, and ballasts I run DDM 55W slim ballasts. Have had them in for over a year and never an issue. I also have a spare set just in case one does fail I can replace it inside of 4 minutes and be on my way. They don't cost a lot, so if one fails, it's not a big deal to swap them out. My wife's Honda has DDM ballasts/bulbs as well, and they have been running strong for 4 years now. I haven't had an issue with a slim ballast failing on me, only those old school silver brick looking ones.
07-08-2013 08:50 PM
HK_Runner I think you may be right. However, I need to find a really high-quaity setup with high-end ballasts and bulbs. I don't want to deal with those burning out constantly. Any recommendations?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC View Post
Do yourself a favor and take my advice. Get the HID projector headlights. You won't be happy with any LED setup because they are not nearly OEM HID quality. Yes they are better than OEM Jeep lights, but are inferior to an OEM quality HID projector setup. Bonus is you can customize them to suit your own taste.
07-08-2013 08:42 PM
NFRs2000NYC
Quote:
Originally Posted by HK_Runner View Post
I ended up returning my TLs after a couple of days. I didn't like the reflective foreground, nor the artifacts. I found the foreground lighting a bit too reflective and they fatigued my eyes. I am in the minority but I prefer the clean beam pattern of the stock lights. However, they are simply not bright enough. I'll figure out the next step- JW Speaker or the HIDs.
Do yourself a favor and take my advice. Get the HID projector headlights. You won't be happy with any LED setup because they are not nearly OEM HID quality. Yes they are better than OEM Jeep lights, but are inferior to an OEM quality HID projector setup. Bonus is you can customize them to suit your own taste.
07-08-2013 06:25 PM
HK_Runner I ended up returning my TLs after a couple of days. I didn't like the reflective foreground, nor the artifacts. I found the foreground lighting a bit too reflective and they fatigued my eyes. I am in the minority but I prefer the clean beam pattern of the stock lights. However, they are simply not bright enough. I'll figure out the next step- JW Speaker or the HIDs.
07-08-2013 02:44 PM
1 Bad Snake Awesome find thank you.

Quote:
Originally Posted by justin-branam View Post
$400 for a pair with free shipping on the Truck-lite's. I bought mine from this guy and had them the next day!

Truck Lite 27270C 7" Round LED Headlamp Complex Reflector Trucklite Trucklight | eBay
05-28-2013 09:32 AM
HK_Runner It's pretty common with the 7" round headlamp. Motorcycles, for example, generally use one headlight. Why would they buy two?
05-28-2013 01:19 AM
Haywireryder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgt93 View Post
The price is close, if you only want one JW headlight


Wow,,, I never read the fine print on Ebay. Who in the he!! sells head lights seperate ???? Geez,,,Truck lights are looking better now...

So are the JW's light years ahead ? Big price jump.

Thanks,
Mike
05-24-2013 10:43 AM
justin-branam $400 for a pair with free shipping on the Truck-lite's. I bought mine from this guy and had them the next day!

Truck Lite 27270C 7" Round LED Headlamp Complex Reflector Trucklite Trucklight | eBay
05-24-2013 09:28 AM
Sgt93
Quote:
Originally Posted by Haywireryder View Post
Question,, I kept reading that the JW's were twice the price of Trck-Lites,, all the prices I've seen have been within $15 bucks or so of each other,, am I missing something here? Is there a higher end model ?? I also am contemplating the upgrade on my headlights but I'm not sure out of the two which way to go. HID isn't in the running. Any advice?

Thanks in advance.
The price is close, if you only want one JW headlight
05-24-2013 05:04 AM
abassillo truck lite you can get for 500$

http://www.quadratec.com/products/97009_8000.htm

the cheapest I have seen jw speaker is in the 700's

http://www.rebeloffroad.com/product-p/jw8700kit.htm

there are some sites I have seen the 8700 for 500 but it was a single headlight not the pair, have you seen different?
05-24-2013 01:51 AM
Haywireryder Question,, I kept reading that the JW's were twice the price of Trck-Lites,, all the prices I've seen have been within $15 bucks or so of each other,, am I missing something here? Is there a higher end model ?? I also am contemplating the upgrade on my headlights but I'm not sure out of the two which way to go. HID isn't in the running. Any advice?

Thanks in advance.
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