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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-14-2013 04:53 PM
gbendezu My advice, check the forum out google whatever problems you're having before taking it to the stealership. I had the same issue when i bought my Jeep, also first Jeep. No chime.checked the forum and after a 5 minute search through my tool box i had it fixed. Jeeps are great and easy to work on.they break a lot but that's why they are YOUR Jeep.because you spend so much time working on them. That's part of the fun too.
05-14-2013 03:23 PM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
Luckily your warranty covers... bet it's some connection somewhere that has failed and is causing your ECU to go pop.
Final Update:
The problem was an ignition coil causing high voltage to backfeed into the PCM and make it go pop.
Got her back and she's running great. Been cruzin around today topless enjoyin it. Hopefully the only requests I'll be making in the future on the forum will be mods and upgrades.

Thanks everyone.
05-07-2013 11:45 AM
kyjeep Just get a can of flex seal. That stuff allows you to make a boat out of an S-10 or put a screen door in the bottom of your John boat. LOL!!!!
05-07-2013 11:43 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
I'd have a lot less fun if I lived in that sort of fear.
I'm not saying the first time you splash in water you'll instantly be dead, but after wasting time on the trail chasing issues with water getting into places, it's convincing enough for me to not bother. Plus, it's just not my kind of fun.

The point I'm making is simple; if you splash water where it shouldn't be you're going to have a bad time. There is no mystery, it's just dead simple common sense.

I'll take big rocks over splashing in puddles any day, but to each his own.
05-07-2013 11:12 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post

Water isn't conductive, it's the crap that's in it and your vehicle that causes it to be. Read: dust, salt, etc. If you're just talking the engine bay, provided the ecu is watertight, the rest of the connections should have no issues due to their distance from each other and the lack of ability for the water to pass any current. I'd personally only worry about water in the intake.
Thanks for the physics lesson, but I know water splashing like that can easy pug a wire into a sharp area aka fan, feder edges, hot parts of motor, especially with how some people run accessory wires for lights winches etc. once the insulation is compromised, it's easy for a wire to touch a metal part and cause issues etc. sure it doesn't happen every time, but eventually it will happen. Water also causes rust etc on exposed metal parts. Yes it's not a huge deal, especially if you maintain your vehicle. But there is risk and driving like an idiot through a puddle isn't worth the potential damage. If your into mud, water proof your junk some more. Also while we're in the subject of water fording, consider the diffs tcase trans etc, their limits, and the position of the breather holes. I'm not against mudding or puddle splashing or whatever your into. Personally I tried it and hate it and the damage it can cause. If your into it, prepare your vehicle according. I would rather put good, specific info on the risks of this behavior out there than just say " downy worry about anything but your intake" because some serious guys may want to address all the issues and completely water proof their rig. That's all I'm really getting at. Yes the intake is the major concern. But others exist as well.
05-07-2013 10:57 AM
wranglerbob1 Sorry about your bad luck man but if I were you I would be looking for a local shop or if need be another stealer.. Seems like every time it is in the stealers hands something else is wrong/broke or need replacing.
I had a Toyota PU years ago that came with warranty and took it in one time for something minor. Stealer told me I needed other stuff that was bad. Little did they know a week before those parts were all replaced by me . Just looking for money and told them to piss off and left. Tried to call me later that day to say they made a mistake-LOL.
Good luck with your ride.....It gets better.
05-07-2013 10:55 AM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
Never said the opposite, and that wasn't the point I was making. The point I was trying to make was fording that kind of water, or even water much shallower than that, at the kind of speed to make it "shoot out of the flares like geysers" as the OP said can certainly cause problems.

I'd have a lot less fun if I lived in that sort of fear.
05-07-2013 10:54 AM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Good point, Except water can cause shorts, knock wires loose, splash up into the intake, etc. not as big of a risk but still exists. Evidence is what the OP is now dealing with.
Water isn't conductive, it's the crap that's in it and your vehicle that causes it to be. Read: dust, salt, etc. If you're just talking the engine bay, provided the ecu is watertight, the rest of the connections should have no issues due to their distance from each other and the lack of ability for the water to pass any current. I'd personally only worry about water in the intake.
05-07-2013 10:32 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
Never said the opposite, and that wasn't the point I was making. The point I was trying to make was fording that kind of water, or even water much shallower than that, at the kind of speed to make it "shoot out of the flares like geysers" as the OP said can certainly cause problems.
05-07-2013 10:31 AM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post

As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
Good point, Except water can cause shorts, knock wires loose, splash up into the intake, etc. not as big of a risk but still exists. Evidence is what the OP is now dealing with.
05-07-2013 10:30 AM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_wolfman View Post
Update:
Well not much to update. Dealership is at a loss as what's causing the problem. They are consulting with Chrysler. Will update again as soon as I learn something.

Luckily your warranty covers... bet it's some connection somewhere that has failed and is causing your ECU to go pop.
05-07-2013 10:29 AM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
You'll probably have better luck if you drive slowly through any standing water. Anytime you have water "gushing out like geysers" from the fenders, you can be sure it's splashing inside just as well. Anytime you have water splashing around like that you're taking your chances. Those other Jeeps you see aren't splashing into the water, they're driving slow and being careful; there is really no big mystery.

That's not to say it isn't possible for some problems left by the previous owner aren't contributing, but regardless driving recklessly into water will cause issues. I've witnessed someone start out the day at Rausch Creek with a beautiful Rubicon and end up leaving the park on a flat bed because he thought his snorkel made him invincible to water.
As long as you're not fording higher your front grill/floorboards, i.e., potentially submerging your intake you shouldn't have to worry about anything.
05-07-2013 10:11 AM
tx_wolfman Update:
Well not much to update. Dealership is at a loss as what's causing the problem. They are consulting with Chrysler. Will update again as soon as I learn something.
05-03-2013 11:29 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_wolfman View Post
So with the dealership now stating something about ignition coils, he didn't go into details, any thoughts or ideas?

I live on the Gulf Coast of TX. We get some serious rain and the roads flood quickly. Stating the obvious here, don't drive through high water, an inch or two of water on the roads is normal. I'm trying to find a solution to keep from this happenening again, when I see jeeps almost sunk and not having these porblems. I'm speaking of electrical issues, not sucking water down the intake, just to be clear.
You'll probably have better luck if you drive slowly through any standing water. Anytime you have water "gushing out like geysers" from the fenders, you can be sure it's splashing inside just as well. Anytime you have water splashing around like that you're taking your chances. Those other Jeeps you see aren't splashing into the water, they're driving slow and being careful; there is really no big mystery.

That's not to say it isn't possible for some problems left by the previous owner aren't contributing, but regardless driving recklessly into water will cause issues. I've witnessed someone start out the day at Rausch Creek with a beautiful Rubicon and end up leaving the park on a flat bed because he thought his snorkel made him invincible to water.
05-03-2013 10:43 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neil F. View Post
4.0 PCM is in the same location. Again, water on the PCM is not a common cause for issues.
So with the dealership now stating something about ignition coils, he didn't go into details, any thoughts or ideas?

I live on the Gulf Coast of TX. We get some serious rain and the roads flood quickly. Stating the obvious here, don't drive through high water, an inch or two of water on the roads is normal. I'm trying to find a solution to keep from this happenening again, when I see jeeps almost sunk and not having these porblems. I'm speaking of electrical issues, not sucking water down the intake, just to be clear.
05-03-2013 10:34 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
I wasn't trying to offend you, I just hate people who join the forum just to complain and bad mouth their jeep. It doesn't seem productive to me at all. You obviously care and do want to take care of your jeep, and just wanted to vent. That wasn't obvious to me at first though. I apologize if I offended you.
We're cool man. Yes, I wanted to vent and yes, I wanted feedback to learn from. I got both. All good. V
05-03-2013 10:26 AM
Neil F. 4.0 PCM is in the same location. Again, water on the PCM is not a common cause for issues.
05-03-2013 09:48 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by n00g7 View Post
I wouldn't bother with the whole magnet business, if there are chuncks missing from your gears, OI! Otherwise, all you need is (1) steel brush (2) scraper (3) Oil (4) brake cleaner and (5) rtv.

Pull the drain plug first. If it comes out, pull the diff cover. Scrape the seal off the diff cover, scrape the seal off the diff, then brush. This is a good time to paint your diff cover (brush first) and rattle can the rest of the ugly shit under your jeep while you're at it. Liberal use of brake cleaner for the cover and the diff itself. For ref, I use an entire can when changing both front and rear.

So do that for the back, let everything sit until dry. Use the RTV on the cover and the diff itself, make sure to be on the inside of the bolt holes. After applying RTV, let it sit for for 5-15 mins and slap the cover on hand tighten bolts and go to work on the front doing the same thing. Once you have the dif cover on the front, go back to the rear and tighten the bolts... I just use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket on the handle for a little extra leverage -- close enough for hand grenades and horseshoes. Fill til it oozes and pop in the plug... then do that for the front and you're done. Simple. Maybe an hour-three hours depedning if you paint/have a lift/jack whatever.
Thanks for the info. If there's one thing I do have, it's tools. I normally work on things that fly, not drive.
05-03-2013 09:42 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by EnglishBulldog1 View Post
TX I am sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I have had my own to, not to the extent you have had. Mine is mostly thing do not go well when doing projects. I have learned to like the difficult jobs now, adds to the fun. Remember JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket). Hope things go your way soon.
Thanks Bro. Yes, I'm learning that jeep acronym first hand.
05-03-2013 09:39 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by kev58896 View Post
As for the diff cover, if you're gonna be back inside there much, like lots of us Jeepers are, a $20 lube locker is a good investment. Special gasket for the diff, means you won't have to sit there scraping RTV every time you open it up, just the first time.
Do you have a vendor or part number for this item? I'd like to take a look at it.
05-03-2013 09:33 AM
tx_wolfman I want all readers to remember that my jeep is a 2.4L 4cyl. My PCM is on the right hand firewall. I don't know anything about the 4.0L engine or component location of these engines. Learning as I go, I wish I would've bought a 4.0, but the deed is done and I'll work through it.

I ask for any ideas on "waterproofing" (I use that term loosely, nothing is ever waterproof) the PCM. I will use GoldenSahara00's idea of using dielectric in the connectors to help keep out water. Dow Corning DC4 is great for this and I can get it at work. I'm thinking about fabricating an aluminum plate to go from under the PCM and bend around to the top to help deflect any future water from hitting it directly. And yes avoiding water is a major key to this also. My jeep has it's first allergy, WATER!!

I will post what the dealership finds is causing the PCM to fry as soon as they installed the new one as soon as I find out.
05-03-2013 09:11 AM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot68 View Post
I understand your main concern at this point is getting the Jeep back on the road but when your able get the contract provisions and take another look. Sometimes the verbage can be deceiving. I worked in the extended service contract industry for years, I'm not saying it isn't possibly however I have never seen even the most basic powertrain plan not cover the engine block and heads.
I will definitely reread it when I get it back. I may PM you, if I may, to get your take on the exact verbage in the contract. AUL is the warranty company. I don't know if that's who you worked for or have knowledge of them, but I'd like to recoupe some of if not all the money spend on that problem.
05-02-2013 10:22 PM
EnglishBulldog1 TX I am sorry to hear about all of your troubles. I have had my own to, not to the extent you have had. Mine is mostly thing do not go well when doing projects. I have learned to like the difficult jobs now, adds to the fun. Remember JEEP (Just Empty Every Pocket). Hope things go your way soon.
05-02-2013 09:53 PM
scot68
Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_wolfman View Post
I don't have the extended warrany paper work on hand right now, it's in the jeep at the dealership. I did read it when the head issue was at hand. The way it read was only "internally lubricated parts", ie cams, valves etc.
I read that, and knew in my head that they wouldn't cover it before the dealer told me. I can get the exact text to you when I get the jeep back, if you like. But, yes I did read the warranty myself, not just trust the dealer.
I understand your main concern at this point is getting the Jeep back on the road but when your able get the contract provisions and take another look. Sometimes the verbage can be deceiving. I worked in the extended service contract industry for years, I'm not saying it isn't possibly however I have never seen even the most basic powertrain plan not cover the engine block and heads.
05-02-2013 09:51 PM
kev58896 Sorry you've had such bad luck with it. Keep working through it! Jeeps are a labor of love, sometimes leans more to one side than the other though.

I've got the 05-06 gas tank issue as well. I'm just gonna order the GM filler hose and do that mod so I can fix it for $30. And I'm glad to get the #4 fuse trick off this thread, since I've got my doors on right now and want my lights.

As for the diff cover, if you're gonna be back inside there much, like lots of us Jeepers are, a $20 lube locker is a good investment. Special gasket for the diff, means you won't have to sit there scraping RTV every time you open it up, just the first time.
05-02-2013 09:17 PM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by tx_wolfman View Post
Very good idea, Thank you. Did you have to replace the diff seals or were they ok after removing the covers?

I wouldn't bother with the whole magnet business, if there are chuncks missing from your gears, OI! Otherwise, all you need is (1) steel brush (2) scraper (3) Oil (4) brake cleaner and (5) rtv.

Pull the drain plug first. If it comes out, pull the diff cover. Scrape the seal off the diff cover, scrape the seal off the diff, then brush. This is a good time to paint your diff cover (brush first) and rattle can the rest of the ugly shit under your jeep while you're at it. Liberal use of brake cleaner for the cover and the diff itself. For ref, I use an entire can when changing both front and rear.

So do that for the back, let everything sit until dry. Use the RTV on the cover and the diff itself, make sure to be on the inside of the bolt holes. After applying RTV, let it sit for for 5-15 mins and slap the cover on hand tighten bolts and go to work on the front doing the same thing. Once you have the dif cover on the front, go back to the rear and tighten the bolts... I just use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket on the handle for a little extra leverage -- close enough for hand grenades and horseshoes. Fill til it oozes and pop in the plug... then do that for the front and you're done. Simple. Maybe an hour-three hours depedning if you paint/have a lift/jack whatever.
05-02-2013 09:02 PM
tx_wolfman Update:
Talked to the dealership this afternoon. Here's the scoop. They fixed all the wiring under the dash that was "compromised". They installed a brand new PCM and it INSTANTLY fried. HAHA. That's all I can do at this point, laugh. They are supposed to have a pow wow tomorrow over this thing. He did state something about ignition coils, but at this point they are still unsure what the hell is going on.
05-02-2013 08:49 PM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lusus_Naturae View Post
Since you mention the diffs already - stick a strong magnet on the sides and pull the magnet to the bottom of the carrier, think of it as sweeping everything possible to the bottom. Then pop the diff cover off and do a complete oil change on them. Pour the oil in a metal pan and attach the magnet to one side of it and swish the oil around and then dump it out again into a bucket. Any metal shavings will now be left stuck to the magnet in the pan. You shouldn't have much, maybe some fine metal dust, maybe a few like sand granules. This also insures you have good fluid in the diffs since you did it yourself. I always ran 75-140 oil in mine for many reasons.
Very good idea, Thank you. Did you have to replace the diff seals or were they ok after removing the covers?
05-02-2013 08:48 PM
tx_wolfman
Quote:
Originally Posted by scot68 View Post
Exactly... He mentioned the warranty covered a dash module which would indicate he has a more comprehensive plan. Typically even the base powertrain plans cover the block & heads.. It's speculation at this point but maybe they denied the head because they tried to say "failure of a non covered part (spark plug) caused the failure of the normally covered head"???
OP, why was the head not covered? What exactly did the dealer tell you?
I don't have the extended warrany paper work on hand right now, it's in the jeep at the dealership. I did read it when the head issue was at hand. The way it read was only "internally lubricated parts", ie cams, valves etc.
I read that, and knew in my head that they wouldn't cover it before the dealer told me. I can get the exact text to you when I get the jeep back, if you like. But, yes I did read the warranty myself, not just trust the dealer.
05-02-2013 06:54 PM
Lusus_Naturae Since you mention the diffs already - stick a strong magnet on the sides and pull the magnet to the bottom of the carrier, think of it as sweeping everything possible to the bottom. Then pop the diff cover off and do a complete oil change on them. Pour the oil in a metal pan and attach the magnet to one side of it and swish the oil around and then dump it out again into a bucket. Any metal shavings will now be left stuck to the magnet in the pan. You shouldn't have much, maybe some fine metal dust, maybe a few like sand granules. This also insures you have good fluid in the diffs since you did it yourself. I always ran 75-140 oil in mine for many reasons.
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