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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-04-2014 06:59 AM
joe buell
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonnieSil View Post
Are you sure you didn't put the wrong bracket on each side or flip them upside down. I bought the kc bracket and they mount the other way. You wouldn't have that clearance problem if you flipped them.
They are not KC brackets I believe they are rugged ridge but I will have to check and I turned them every way from sunday thinking the same as you and this is the only way they FIT if I reversed them they would stick out to the sides of the A pillar and the doors would hit not my 1st rodeo but I bought them online and was not going to go through the headache to send them back but I do like the low profile and the right side is not in your line of sight as it would be if it were higher .
05-03-2014 01:55 PM
Jeepin Jesse How is the windshield glare with these? I read in another thread that the LED light has less glare than these halogens.
05-01-2014 05:46 PM
Hotsparks Very nice install, I really like the switch panel.
05-01-2014 11:33 AM
RonnieSil
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepin Jesse View Post
I was thinking the same thing when I looked at the pics. I'm thinking about doing this KC kitand had a couple questions. How is the light quality compared to others like Hella, PIAA, IPF, Delta? Why did you go KC? A couple of you went with the slimlites...can you post pics? Wondering if these are worth the extra cost on a pillar. I thought they were more for the grill.
At first I wanted LEDs but could find any that looked good for a good price. I wanted the classic KC style lights and the slim light came in 130w long range lights so I went with that. Was only about $150 on Amazon and free 2 day shipping since I have prime.
05-01-2014 03:00 AM
Jeepin Jesse
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonnieSil View Post
Are you sure you didn't put the wrong bracket on each side or flip them upside down. I bought the kc bracket and they mount the other way. You wouldn't have that clearance problem if you flipped them.
I was thinking the same thing when I looked at the pics.

I'm thinking about doing this KC kitand had a couple questions.
How is the light quality compared to others like Hella, PIAA, IPF, Delta? Why did you go KC?
A couple of you went with the slimlites...can you post pics? Wondering if these are worth the extra cost on a pillar. I thought they were more for the grill.
04-30-2014 08:20 PM
RonnieSil
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe buell View Post
I only have one thing maybe 3 to share with all. be careful of the A pillar light mount bracket you choose. the set I bought and I do not remember the name .but they set way too LOW so the KC light mounting bolt will hit your hood I had to install light on bracket off jeep and cut the 3/4 bolts off as short as possible I will show the pics this will save you a lot of grief ?????but other than that easy install .and if you see the antenna I bent it about 4-6inches just above the mount at about a 45 degree angle and it keeps the antenna off the lights thanks for reading .
Are you sure you didn't put the wrong bracket on each side or flip them upside down. I bought the kc bracket and they mount the other way. You wouldn't have that clearance problem if you flipped them.
04-30-2014 07:56 PM
joe buell I only have one thing maybe 3 to share with all. be careful of the A pillar light mount bracket you choose. the set I bought and I do not remember the name .but they set way too LOW so the KC light mounting bolt will hit your hood I had to install light on bracket off jeep and cut the 3/4 bolts off as short as possible I will show the pics this will save you a lot of grief ?????but other than that easy install .and if you see the antenna I bent it about 4-6inches just above the mount at about a 45 degree angle and it keeps the antenna off the lights thanks for reading .
04-30-2014 12:47 PM
nmdesertrat Did the same install a while back. As said, no need to pay to get them installed. I went with the 130 Watt lights. Man they throw a beam and NO hood reflection. With the iffy high beams, Hella 55 W lights and the KC's...I can light up the night!!
04-30-2014 08:18 AM
OrangeJeepGuy
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonnieSil View Post
I ended up just cutting the wires and splicing in a connector, it was easy took me 20 minutes and it definitely looks better.
I might do the same.
04-29-2014 04:24 PM
RonnieSil I ended up just cutting the wires and splicing in a connector, it was easy took me 20 minutes and it definitely looks better.
04-28-2014 07:47 PM
RonnieSil
Quote:
Originally Posted by OrangeJeepGuy View Post
Did you all have any trouble with the wire connect being in the way when trying to run the wires for the windshield mounts? Those connectors are huge! There isn't enough room to fit. I was thinking about cutting the connectors off and just wiring up a spade connector.
I just did this install today i have the wires just sitting on the bracket right now. Tomorrow I'm going to wrap the connection in black duck tape and tape it down to the bracket. I'll let you know how it looks tomorrow.
But others then that I'm really happy with how it turned out.


Attachment 1041201
04-28-2014 03:03 PM
OrangeJeepGuy Did you all have any trouble with the wire connect being in the way when trying to run the wires for the windshield mounts? Those connectors are huge! There isn't enough room to fit. I was thinking about cutting the connectors off and just wiring up a spade connector.
11-18-2013 11:03 AM
stardalo
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sgobrecht View Post
Thanks for the great write up! Made the installation process for my KC's and A Pillar switch housing much easier!
Looks great! Glad I was able to help out.
11-18-2013 09:05 AM
Sgobrecht Thanks for the great write up! Made the installation process for my KC's and A Pillar switch housing much easier!
11-13-2013 10:22 AM
sunshine22
lighting help!

I dont have a JKUR, but I just bought an 02 sahara. I want to do a set up like this but can't find any forums that really give some good advice. I'm not into offroading just yet, but maybe in the near future. My problem is that I am not sure if it is worth spending all of the money on windshield mounts that I can't use on the road. I was planning on going with KC HiLites from Quadratec that come with the mounts included. I love the look, and would probably use when I need hi beams, but I was hoping for some advice moving forward.

Thanks
11-03-2013 08:09 PM
stardalo
Quote:
Originally Posted by micahd View Post
Thanks for this excellent writeup. I'm doing same thing on my '13 JKUR, except I'll probably just use the KC switch that comes w/ slim lites. I intend to have the KCs on whenever my hi beams are.

Here's the Q. As I understand from hours of reading another thread*, Wave Pulse Modulation (WPM) used in newer Wrangler headlight wiring is a problem. Apparently it'll fry the KC relay (quickly or eventually). Could you possibly listen to and touch your KC relay while the lights are on -- to see if you hear or feel buzzing/vibrating? If so, that's the WPM fluctuating the voltage.

The solution is pretty easy, you're supposed to solder in a 4700uf capacitor in parallel with the wire you attached to the hi beam power. But I'd rather not mod the KC wiring if it's not necessary. On the other hand, nor do I want to blow relays weekly!

Thanks if you can possibly check or advise.

*
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f132/th...tc-166997.html
Sorry for the delay. I checked on the noise finally today and I do not hear anything. Hope the relay does not get burned out. Been about 10 months since installed.
11-02-2013 02:15 PM
Putzy I got everything wired and no power. I'm going to go to harbor fright and buy a power meter to see if I get power to the switch. If I don't then I'm assuming it's the relay? I know nothing about this stuff. Ugggghh
11-01-2013 11:48 PM
t.schabel Dude I had the same questions. White goes to positive terminal; make sure you ground it before turning them on---I didn't and it blew a fuse which slowed me down because I couldn't figure out why they didn't work. I grounded mine by drilling into the metal and using a bolt and a wing nut to secure it against the sheet metal. Installing them is a pain in the ass especially when you've never done anything with automotive lighting. (Doing it yourself beats the 186 bucks my jeep dealer wanted to charge me for an install) Aiming them is kind a pain too; mine kept coming loose---I had to mess with aiming and tightening them for a week after the install to get them where I wanted them. All in all, I'd say it's worth it. They look good and are very bright. The hassle is worth the experience of installing them
11-01-2013 07:24 PM
Putzy I just tried to install mine and they do not work...uuggghhhhh!!! Where does the white wire connect to? Also can I just put the ground wire on the battery instead of medal? It's soooooo frustrating!!
10-30-2013 08:42 PM
micahd
KC light install on 2013 JKUR - added notes

Can't thank you enough for this post, it really helped my install last Sat of my KC Slimlites & windshield mounts on my 2013 JKUR. Below inline, I added some additional notes, tips, and challenges I ran into prefaced w/ MSD: each time. Hope they help the next guy along!

Quote:
Originally Posted by stardalo View Post
I had some time today so I decided to install my windshield mounted KC Hilite Driving lights onto my 2013 JKUR. Not really a hard install, just a bit time consuming. Took me 5 hours start to finish. I also bought a rugged ridge driver side pillar switch that I installed.

MSD: I used the KC switch but without its little mounting block, see photo at end.

For those interested in doing the install, I took some pics and will provide a brief description of how I did it. Now I am no pro, so feel free to chime in if you have a better idea or tips or useful suggestions. Hope this helps.

1.) Mount the mounts to the windshield. Pretty straight forward. Just unscrew the 2 screws in the corner of the windshield, put mount in place and screw back in.

2.) Install actual fixtures to mount. Leave loose for aiming.

3.) I removed windshield wiper blades. They pretty much just pop off, after removing cover and nut.

4.) I then removed metal section between hood and windshield. To do so, remove screws holding down. Then there are like 4 plastic pressure screw in the middle that just pop out when you pull on them. I used a large screwdriver covered in electrical tape to help coach it along.

MSD: This was possibly the toughest part of whole install! Maybe it was due to 40-degree temps, but these plastic poppers took me a LOT of work to get out. I eventually used the screwdriver suggested, plus grabbed the edge of each plastic screw w/ pliers to pull out. I considered replacing w/ some sort of black self-tapping screw, but in the end just tapped them back in.



5.) I removed door stop that keep drivers side door from swinging open too far. Once this is done, its a piece of cake to pry out side panel of dash.

MSD: Agree, just start on top or bottom and carefully pop the clips.



6.) At this point, I laid out all my wires. I basically ran the wires to the lights under the piece of hood that is in the top right and left hand corners of the hood. It conceals the wires pretty nicely and they dont seem to pinch at all.

MSD: Agreed. I had to remove the 4 10MM bolts that hold these pieces of the cowl down so I could run the wires properly -- the holes at corner near lights weren't big enough to allow the fat KC connector thru.

I also poked a hole in my firewall starting inside the car under the side section of the dash that i removed earlier. I then snaked through the white and green wires for the switch. These wires run pretty much the same path that the wire to the lights run, utilizing the drivers side hood corner. You can see the pieces I am referring to in the pic under #5.

MSD: I spent some time trying to figure this out, and landed on this easy method, prob same as OP's. I encased the wires from battery to both lights, and also the G/W wires, all in one piece of black wire loom. Looks very OEM. Run this right under the big black loom that snakes along top of firewall at rear of engine compartment, securing w/ wire ties. At the driver's corner, snake the driver's KC light wire out and up to the light under the piece of cowl mentioned earlier. Then I used an electrician's fish wire from INSIDE the car to poke thru the tan insulation "plug" you'll see at top of the plastic side cover you removed earlier. This plug is inside a round hole in the dash frame maybe 3/4" in diameter. Tape the G/W wires to fish tape and pull back thru. I did have to cut off the female crimped-on ends of the G/W wires to make them fit, it was tight getting back through in my case. I just re-attached 2 new female crimp connectors later.

7.) At this point, I mounted my relay. There are a group of relays on the passenger side top corner under the hood. In this spot, there is just enugh room to fit the relay for the KC's. I then used a self tapping screw to mount the ground that goes with the relay. My relay is the one on the left held in place with a stainless self tapper, with the gound wire next to it.

MSD: I mounted my relay a bit forward of the battery in order to make sure my white wire could easily reach the pass's side high beam even when run alongside existing wiring. I bent the relay mounting tab over onto the top of the engine compartment side rail and secured w/ self-tapper. This also meant I could hide a lot of the KC wiring under the plastic shield next to the battery (see photo below from OP).




8.) Now I connected my Rugged Ridge Pillar switch. Note you have to cut out the spots for the switchs. I heated my utility knife blade with my plumbing torch a little. This made it a whole lot easier to cut out the spaces for the switchs. I then popped all 4 switches in as I plan on using them soon. You have to remove the driver side visor and the 2 screws in the top pillar section. I left this hanging in place as I began popping out bottom part of pillar.


Once this is done, the bottom pillar pops out. You need to pull the metal clip off the bottom pillar and reinstall on the Rugged Ridge pillar. I then connected the white and green wires to the RR switch using the directions on connecting the KC switch as RR did not mention how to connect switch. Now, the kit comes with a brown wire for grounding. I hooked it up to the switch and then removed one of the nuts located in the side panel dash area that is connected to metal and connected it to that.

MSD: As mentioned, I used the orig KC switch, but tossed the mounting block. Instead I drilled a 1/2" or so hole in the pillar and secured the KC switch in it with the retaining ring. It ended up being in a good spot, easy to reach w/ left hand and the green LED is noticeable at night to remind you the lights are on. Getting G/W/Brown wires onto back of switch once mounted isn't easy, I should have pulled the wires out thru the hole, slid on the retaining ring and attached wires, and then put the switch in place. Live and learn...

9.) At this point, I took the wire that is supposed to be tapped into my hi beams and tapped it into the battery just to make sure all was working. I then tied in the yellow wire into my battery terminal to supply it with power as well. Thank goodness all was working.

10.) Now I had to tie in the white wire to my hi beam. To do this, i removed front grill. Its held in place with plastic pop in screws. Just pop out and pull it forward. No need to disconnect. Then I removed passenger side headlight. To do so, just unscrew bezel, then twist off light. I then ran tie in hi beam wire along passenger side towards passenger headlight. I then found the hi beam wire. It is White / Gray. I stripped a small section, soldered together the wires then covered in liquid electrical tape I bought off amazon. Before putting grill back together, I checked again that my KC's only work when the hi beams are on. They did, thank goodness. I then closed up front grill and headlight.

MSD: VERY helpful to have this description. I did the same, and removing grill and headlight is the way to go. My only issue is that when all together, only ONE light worked! I started testing and found that KC hadn't put one light's female metal connector securely enough into it's weatherproof housing where the harness connects to the light. Grrr, poor QC. Also here, I worried about all I've read about JKs having wave pulse modulation headlight wiring, meaning the KC relay might get fluctuating voltage. So I bought a 7500u capacitor to install inline in the high beam wire, but haven't tied it in yet because I was curious if I'd hear the relay buzzing (as others have noted). Haven't had the lights on long enough to test properly yet, but I will.

11.) Now time to tidy up all the wires. There is a 1" piece of wire loom that runs the length of the fire wall. I neatened up all the slack and neatly zip tied all to this piece of loom.



12.) I then reinstalled the piece of hood that I removed in step 4 and put windshield wipers back on. A little tough to pop this in, but once again used large screw driver to help get it back in to plastic tabs.

13.) I finished installing RR pillar switch. I bunched the excess switch wire up with a zip tie and strapped it onto a piece of loom in the side dash panel are. I then finished RR Switch and popped back in side panel. The RR Switch is a decent fit. Looks sort of factoryish.



14.) I then aimed and tightened down nuts.

15.) Now this step will actually come tomorrow. I am going to disconnect my KC's at the fixture, pop on a piece of heat sink, reconnect, apply some liquid electrical tape allow it to dry then finish heat sink. Right now, the actual wires are exposed. They are hidden pretty good, but I don't want them getting wet the way they currently are.

Here is a few pics of the final mounted version:





10-29-2013 08:27 AM
OrangeJeepGuy I am trying to decide what is best for my windshield mount. Driving lights or Long range style?

KC HiLites 6" Apollo Pro Long Range Lights with FREE Windshield Mount Brackets for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

KC HiLites 6" Apollo Pro Driving Lights with FREE Windshield Mount Brackets for 07-14 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK - Quadratec

Q-Tech has them both on sale with free mounts.
10-16-2013 03:18 AM
jackor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alext View Post
I see you have snow where you are...

I noticed that too. nothing on the ground here in AK yet, but termination dust is working its way down and i'm gettin afeared.
10-15-2013 11:52 PM
MagicMtnDan
Quote:
Originally Posted by stardalo View Post
I had some time today so I decided to install my windshield mounted KC Hilite Driving lights onto my 2013 JKUR. Not really a hard install, just a bit time consuming. Took me 5 hours start to finish. I also bought a rugged ridge driver side pillar switch that I installed.
Great write-up, thanks for posting it!

Do you have any pics showing the wires and how you ran them from the lights into the cowl?
10-15-2013 08:13 PM
Republican Jeep Looks good and an inexpensive mod compared to lifts and bumpers.
10-15-2013 08:07 PM
micahd Thanks for this excellent writeup. I'm doing same thing on my '13 JKUR, except I'll probably just use the KC switch that comes w/ slim lites. I intend to have the KCs on whenever my hi beams are.

Here's the Q. As I understand from hours of reading another thread*, Wave Pulse Modulation (WPM) used in newer Wrangler headlight wiring is a problem. Apparently it'll fry the KC relay (quickly or eventually). Could you possibly listen to and touch your KC relay while the lights are on -- to see if you hear or feel buzzing/vibrating? If so, that's the WPM fluctuating the voltage.

The solution is pretty easy, you're supposed to solder in a 4700uf capacitor in parallel with the wire you attached to the hi beam power. But I'd rather not mod the KC wiring if it's not necessary. On the other hand, nor do I want to blow relays weekly!

Thanks if you can possibly check or advise.

*
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f132/th...tc-166997.html
05-08-2013 08:13 AM
GlobalResponder I just installed the same using the same "Rugged Ridge" A Pillar switch pod. I'm not happy with the Pod install on my '10 Wrangler. First, not sure if this pod is really intended for newer models, because the big cut out on the pod that is meant for where it should fit into the crevice of the upper portion is NOT lined up at all!
As well, I had to cut out a "notch" on the side panel, because the bottom edge of the pod gets in the way of the side panel cover.
Overall, not very impressed! I think they made these to be somewhat "universal" for a broad section of JK's and enough minor changes have been made between '08-'13 that warrants really more of a custom made product. Too bad they sell this stuff as "fits" my '10, when it really doesn't... I have made mine work, but I definitely wouldn't say mine looks at all "factoryish"... The only thing factory looking is the finish of the plastic itself, it tends to match the color and texture of my current interior, that's about it.

Secondly, why did they feel they had to mount the switches so close together? They put them so close together that when you cut out the switch holes, you're lucky if there is 1/8" of material left between each switch! I know that one day, cracks will develop on that thin sliver of material left on the pod! They could have at least put 1/2" between each switch and it would have even looked better too!

Glad to see yours worked out so well!
03-19-2013 07:54 PM
goodstrongbeer
Quote:
Originally Posted by BaldwinJeep View Post
I just mounted my KC 6" Slimlites on my windshield mounts tonight and will wire them up tomorrow night when I get the switch in. One question though, my antenna is hitting the rock guard on the light. Anyone else run into this issue? If so, what, if anything, did you do about it?
Antenna X stubby.
03-19-2013 07:50 PM
BaldwinJeep I just mounted my KC 6" Slimlites on my windshield mounts tonight and will wire them up tomorrow night when I get the switch in. One question though, my antenna is hitting the rock guard on the light. Anyone else run into this issue? If so, what, if anything, did you do about it?
02-26-2013 09:25 AM
stardalo I think the pillar mount is very much "factoryish" looking. takes some massaging to get it to sit perfectly but definitely can be done.
02-25-2013 09:09 PM
D.B.
Quote:
Originally Posted by stardalo View Post
I had some time today so I decided to install my windshield mounted KC Hilite Driving lights onto my 2013 JKUR. Not really a hard install, just a bit time consuming. Took me 5 hours start to finish. I also bought a rugged ridge driver side pillar switch that I installed.

For those interested in doing the install, I took some pics and will provide a brief description of how I did it. Now I am no pro, so feel free to chime in if you have a better idea or tips or useful suggestions. Hope this helps.

1.) Mount the mounts to the windshield. Pretty straight forward. Just unscrew the 2 screws in the corner of the windshield, put mount in place and screw back in.

2.) Install actual fixtures to mount. Leave loose for aiming.

3.) I removed windshield wiper blades. They pretty much just pop off, after removing cover and nut.

4.) I then removed metal section between hood and windshield. To do so, remove screws holding down. Then there are like 4 plastic pressure screw in the middle that just pop out when you pull on them. I used a large screwdriver covered in electrical tape to help coach it along.


5.) I removed door stop that keep drivers side door from swinging open too far. Once this is done, its a piece of cake to pry out side panel of dash.


6.) At this point, I laid out all my wires. I basically ran the wires to the lights under the piece of hood that is in the top right and left hand corners of the hood. It conceals the wires pretty nicely and they dont seem to pinch at all. I also poked a hole in my firewall starting inside the car under the side section of the dash that i removed earlier. I then snaked through the white and green wires for the switch. These wires run pretty much the same path that the wire to the lights run, utilizing the drivers side hood corner. You can see the pieces I am referring to in the pic under #5.

7.) At this point, I mounted my relay. There are a group of relays on the passenger side top corner under the hood. In this spot, there is just enugh room to fit the relay for the KC's. I then used a self tapping screw to mount the ground that goes with the relay. My relay is the one on the left held in place with a stainless self tapper, with the gound wire next to it.



8.) Now I connected my Rugged Ridge Pillar switch. Note you have to cut out the spots for the switchs. I heated my utility knife blade with my plumbing torch a little. This made it a whole lot easier to cut out the spaces for the switchs. I then popped all 4 switches in as I plan on using them soon. You have to remove the driver side visor and the 2 screws in the top pillar section. I left this hanging in place as I began popping out bottom part of pillar.


Once this is done, the bottom pillar pops out. You need to pull the metal clip off the bottom pillar and reinstall on the Rugged Ridge pillar. I then connected the white and green wires to the RR switch using the directions on connecting the KC switch as RR did not mention how to connect switch. Now, the kit comes with a brown wire for grounding. I hooked it up to the switch and then removed one of the nuts located in the side panel dash area that is connected to metal and connected it to that.

9.) At this point, I took the wire that is supposed to be tapped into my hi beams and tapped it into the battery just to make sure all was working. I then tied in the yellow wire into my battery terminal to supply it with power as well. Thank goodness all was working.

10.) Now I had to tie in the white wire to my hi beam. To do this, i removed front grill. Its held in place with plastic pop in screws. Just pop out and pull it forward. No need to disconnect. Then I removed passenger side headlight. To do so, just unscrew bezel, then twist off light. I then ran tie in hi beam wire along passenger side towards passenger headlight. I then found the hi beam wire. It is White / Gray. I stripped a small section, soldered together the wires then covered in liquid electrical tape I bought off amazon. Before putting grill back together, I checked again that my KC's only work when the hi beams are on. They did, thank goodness. I then closed up front grill and headlight.

11.) Now time to tidy up all the wires. There is a 1" piece of wire loom that runs the length of the fire wall. I neatened up all the slack and neatly zip tied all to this piece of loom.



12.) I then reinstalled the piece of hood that I removed in step 4 and put windshield wipers back on. A little tough to pop this in, but once again used large screw driver to help get it back in to plastic tabs.

13.) I finished installing RR pillar switch. I bunched the excess switch wire up with a zip tie and strapped it onto a piece of loom in the side dash panel are. I then finished RR Switch and popped back in side panel. The RR Switch is a decent fit. Looks sort of factoryish.



14.) I then aimed and tightened down nuts.

15.) Now this step will actually come tomorrow. I am going to disconnect my KC's at the fixture, pop on a piece of heat sink, reconnect, apply some liquid electrical tape allow it to dry then finish heat sink. Right now, the actual wires are exposed. They are hidden pretty good, but I don't want them getting wet the way they currently are.

Here is a few pics of the final mounted version:






Is the fit and finish of the pillar mount install nice and snug in a manner that it does look factoryish?
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