|05-15-2013 03:27 PM|
I researched the purpose of the booster and realize it is supposed to assist in making the brake pedal operate with manageable pressure on the pedal, yet it still seemed softer than it should be (I have bled the lines in the past with a friend and it could be stiffer). I guess I didn't point that out in my last post, my bad.
My thought is the pedal remaining stiff with the booster unplugged is a sign that the brake lines do not need to be bled, thoughts?
As for checking for the "whoosh" sound on the booster, where would I start to look exactly, around the seams? I checked the hose and connections and all seems pretty secure but I'll check again in the hopes it just needs the line to be replaced.
In the event it is the booster would I just need to replace the entire thing or is it possible to fix singular leaks?
|05-15-2013 12:02 PM|
|05-14-2013 07:05 PM|
At this point would I need to replace the booster?
Any step by step web pages to follow?
|05-14-2013 07:02 PM|
|RevCo666||OP: Did you by chance do a panic break recently? Reason I ask is I had similar issues and found out the rear drum needed to be sanded down and adjusted. Was find afterwards... Just a thought.|
|05-14-2013 06:59 PM|
|bc3_Jeep||I would look for a possible leak in the vacuum booster/circuit.|
|05-14-2013 06:16 PM|
Hey folks, been a while.
Alright, I've noticed that when pressing down on the brake pedal there is a bit of softness as I begin to press with a slight "sucking" sound, then it will stiffen up and the everything is fine. The brake pads are fairly new and I have no problem stopping, the pedal does not go to the floor.
I also notice that at random times when I either accelerate or cruising my brakes will squeak until I press the brake pedal. This comes and goes sporadically.
I thought at first to bleed the lines as my mind is thinking if there is air in the line it is not allowing the calipers to open completely (hence the squeak), but I read up on bench bleeding the master cylinder and wonder if this is the right way to go?
Now I picked up the little bleeder kit for the lines at O'Reilly's for $8 and noticed at has additional hoses and 02 attachments-is this possible to use for bench bleeding as well?
I have reviewed various videos on bench bleeding and am wondering if the master cylinder for my 2000 TJ even needs to be removed? I figured for other vehicles it is because of lack of space-but in my TJ I have tons of it and it looks level the way it is mounted. Thoughts?
One more question (sorry for this): reviewing my master cylinder and everything attached I noticed a block piece that the two lines from the master cylinder attach to right underneath, and three lines run out of
(the fourth port is capped). What is this piece, and in the event I do bleed the master cylinder would I have to take this piece into special consideration?
Thanks for all of your help!