|06-20-2013 03:35 PM|
|06-20-2013 03:31 PM|
|06-20-2013 03:21 PM|
I'm not very well-versed on this specific subject, but when it comes to making the seal, did you try using RTV blue instead of the gasket that comes with it? The more manipulative nature of the rtv may allow it to make a better seal with the warped pan. I mean, if there's a large enough gap, it won't matter what you do.
Just an idea.
|06-20-2013 03:10 PM|
I wasn't able to find an aluminum pan other than the TCI or Summit. Both do not have bungs built-in.
I used the gaskets that came with the pans. They are a black rubbery material.
If you want to, you could read my recent aluminum pan post and let me know what you think.
|06-20-2013 01:49 PM|
Did the pan warp while being welded? If you go aluminum are you installing a pan with a built-in bung with the required 1/8" NPT thread for the sensor?
Back to the steel pan, what kind of gasket did you use? A rigid gasket like from Lubelocker might be the key to getting it leak-free.
Edit: Never mind, I just read your later thread that says you're already well past this.
|06-20-2013 01:34 PM|
After all that work it leaked. I just couldn't get the pan to lay flat enough. I decided to go the aluminum route.
|06-06-2013 12:43 PM|
|ipleadda2nd||I have another pan and bung. I would weld it in and paint it for someone if they were interested. I would only charge for the parts and shipping.|
|06-05-2013 03:53 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||No sealant or teflon tape should be applied to the sensor threads, it won't leak and it needs a good electrical connection. Though if you really want to apply some type of sealant, one layer of teflon tape is fine since the sensor threads will cut through it well enough to make a good ground connection. To make sure the pan is well grounded, I removed the paint from around one of the bolt holes on the pan.|
|06-05-2013 03:27 PM|
Also, did you remove the coating from any of the pan bolts to make sure there is a good electrical connection between the pan and transmission?
|06-05-2013 01:55 PM|
|06-05-2013 01:12 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Nice job, that is the same location I ended up installing my 32RH's temp sensor bung into as well. The more tempting driver's side is where I first mounted the bung but it placed the sensor too close to the driveshaft.|
|06-05-2013 12:50 PM|
Finishing Up Pan
After painting I ran the tap through the bung threads again. I don't want any phosphate wash getting in the way of the temp sensor grounding through the pan. I also cleaned the inside of the pan just in case.
I had to buy a 1/2-20 tap because the fluid drain plug was going in hard.
Here it is completed.
Here you can see how far the temp sensor sticks out. There will be plenty of room between it and the drive shaft.
I will install pan this weekend and finish this thread.
|06-05-2013 12:45 PM|
Here's the bung I used.
You need to find a place on the pan to mount the sensor that will not get in the way of anything under the tranny or around it. After reading a few posts I new where to mount it.
32rh tranny deep oil pan - JeepForum.com
32RH/TF999 Temp Sensor Bung Location - JeepForum.com
I chose the forward half of the 45 degree angled side on the driver's side of pan. See below pics. This is where Jerry recommends and after looking at it, I agree. Just make sure you don't mount it inline with a bolt hole. Otherwise you would need to remove the sensor to remove the pan. Also, I mounted it slightly lower than halfway on the pan side.
The bung needs an 11/16" hole. I drilled a 5/8" hole and enlarged it with a Dremel.
I chose a series of overlapping spot welds. I would start at the base of the previous spot weld and push the puddle back onto it like BlackMagicBrakes talks about in this post.
I have a Hobart 187 welder using: heat 4, wire speed 30, gas C25 @ 20psi, wire 0.350". Since your welders probably different, this is for me to reference later.
Here's the inside of the pan. Notice how the weld penetrated all the way through the pan. I'm not sure if this is kosher or not.
The threads in the bung didn't warp due to the heat, but some spatter got in them. I used a tap and cleaned it up.
I wanted to test for leaks before installing the pan. I happened to have some used motor oil. The driveway concrete is not the best place for this. It didn't leak!
I'm only painting the outside of pan. I will not paint the mounting flange.
1. Cleaned with Acetone.
2. Scuffed with a Scotch‑Brite Roloc disc.
3. Cleaned with Acetone.
3. Applied Phosphate/Zinc wash. Avoided inside of pan, mounting flange, and threads. Wiped dry and let air dry for a bit.
4. Cleaned with Acetone.
|06-05-2013 12:41 PM|
Deep Transmission Pan and Temp Sensor Project
I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport with the 32rh auto tranny.
I want a temp sensor for my trans fluid. The best idea I heard was getting the Mopar deep transmission pan and mounting a temp sensor in the side. The deep pan is a little taller and holds more fluid than the factory pan. The extra fluid is nice when climbing a steep hill.
Here's the pan.
The tranny pan mounting flange doesn't lay perfectly flat. I compared to another identical pan and it had the same issue. I needed to finesse it flat, only about 1/8" off.
I used a piece of 1x4 board and a hammer. I took my time and got it flat.