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Topic Review (Newest First)
Today 05:55 PM
ptoncannon Made some progress on my stinger build today!! Got it fully mounted today and put these boxes on the side for stylistic purposes and to mount the support bar on. Will finish boxing these in tomorrow morning but I'm really liking the way it's turning out.

I think we will put the support bar on next, which we will make out of rectangular tubing and then the stinger will be after that. I just can't wait to finish it!
Today 05:33 PM
samizdad Decided to upgrade the speakers in the soundbar. Threw in some fiber fill from a pillow I had bought for another speaker project. Sounds pretty good.



Today 04:15 PM
Sinister6 Attachment 1331289

Autozone, part# in photo.
Today 03:58 PM
jawkDNA
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister6 View Post
So don't use a Volvo COS? Use one that goes in the cable...


Attachment 1331177

Simple, removable key and it works great!
Where does one get one of these?
Today 03:47 PM
gnater76
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister6 View Post
So don't use a Volvo COS? Use one that goes in the cable... Simple, removable key and it works great!
Better than a fancy alarm system. Hide it up under the dash and good to go. I like it!
Today 03:24 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister6 View Post
So don't use a Volvo COS? Use one that goes in the cable...


Attachment 1331177

Simple, removable key and it works great!
Had no idea that anyone made a cutoff switch besides the one i posted.

So, regarding my ignorant post about this: never mind... ;-)
Today 03:01 PM
Sinister6 So don't use a Volvo COS? Use one that goes in the cable...


Attachment 1331177

Simple, removable key and it works great!
Today 02:56 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister6 View Post
^^^^ it's a simple battery cutoff switch, why wouldn't it fit/work?
Posts are very different size. I do not think the posts for the Jeep battery will fit the euro one in the Volvo. Maybe a solidly built one that fits our battery is out there someplace. I have never come across one.
Today 02:51 PM
echo2
Today 02:42 PM
Sinister6 ^^^^ it's a simple battery cutoff switch, why wouldn't it fit/work?
Today 02:15 PM
Holton345 Regarding the traffic in this thread about battery terminals and connectors, I recently purchased one of these for my old Volvo.

The RWD 700 and 900 series cars from the 1980s and 1990s have a problem with servos for the auto door locks sticking in the locked position when you lock the doors. The worn servo (which is a true PITA to get to and service) will sit there all night keeping that plunger (that normally retracts after the doors lock) in the extended position. This drains your battery.

These same cars have issues with the dome lights draining the battery as well, like with the TJs problem with the melted stub in the fog light switch on the back of the Multifunction Switch, causing the fogs to come on when you have them turned off, sometimes staying on all night and draining your battery. The Volvos suffer from the dome lights turning on and staying on until you open and re-close the door. Eventually you have to remove the dome light or replace it. They, like all Volvo parts, are very expensive.

For owners of old 700/900 series Volvos this electrical crap gets expensive and is really difficult to fix. So a Volvo specialty company (sort of the Volvo version of Quadratec) sells these nifty battery disconnects. If you plan on not driving your 740 for a few days and it has been draining your battery, you simply turn the knob when you park the car. It cuts off the battery so it cannot be drained. After a week or whatever, you decide to take the old brick for a spin, twist the knob and you have a ore or less fresh battery. (This does not always do the trick if it is really hot outside - like 105║ or so - as that alone can drain your battery if you do not start the vehicle every day.)

I will try this out on my old 1990 brick and see how sturdy it is. If it is good I will get another one for my TJ. I think it would be a fair security measure. A kill switch is something that a crook looks for, if they are experienced. A hidden kill switch (or a magnetic one like I had on another TJ) makes it much harder for the scumbag to figure out.

The main way to defeat the scumbags (short of shooting them - lol) is to delay them. They do not want to risk being caught, so anything you can do to slow them down is a good thing. If you can make them confused enough they will usually go away. (This is not the case in a darkened backyard car port when no one is home, but works well in parking lots or in front of a house. Guys who strike in those locations like to be gone as quickly as possible, and if that means your car or possible incarceration they usually cuss you out and walk. I have watched four security camera videos of my TJ being gone through by scumbags and them walking away after less than five minutes because they could not get any juice. Not one of them decided to pop the unlocked, easy access hood we all have. Not one. (Further, I am betting that most of them could not have driven off my 5 speed anyway, once they realized it had that weird third pedal, heh, heh, heh... Manual trannys are a sort of security, too.)

Anyway, I am hoping that this gizmo will allow me some options regarding my battery. What with my constantly screwing with the battery to clear codes and whatever, being able to work on the rig and not have to manually remove the negative wire every time will be a boon for me. If it aids in security or battery long-term storage life in the process, even better.

I do not know if I can even get this to fit my TJ. But again, if it works and turns out to be sturdy enough I will post back about it.
Today 02:10 PM
MyRed88
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_in_rc View Post
You can pull the fuse for the dome lights or buy the springs that are made for the plungers that keep them in the closed position. Any of the on-line stores carry them but I can't remember a brand name right now.
I got two fuse taps an inline fuse and a toggle switch to solve that problem
Today 01:56 PM
samizdad Changed the oil. Cleaned the throttle body and got some fuel cleaner.
Today 01:19 PM
ptoncannon
Quote:
Originally Posted by echo2 View Post
Are you going to cover the pos. side with a barrier of any type? I changed mine out a while back with these.... I ordered a piece of red Kydex to make a snap on cover for the pos side....just in case.
I probably will end up doing something to cover them just to prevent corrosion and keep anything off of them. Just trying to get them to work for now so I can get back and forth to work! Lol, I almost bought those too but I liked the fact of having the too less disconnect since I've been welding in my car a lot.

And as for how well they sit on there. They fit well for me! I haven't had any issue of it not fitting tight enough, in fact i had a problem with it being TOO TIGHT and went through hell to get it undone! Haha, I would highly recommend this if you need them replaced
Today 12:53 PM
echo2 Solved my cooling issues with a bigger fan....so this is kinda a moot point.....but it would have worked well....and who knows....I may put it in at a later date. Will paint black.

Heavy duty speaker grill...10"

Electric range eye cover....11"

Electric fan....9"

Today 12:24 PM
jeff_in_rc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ander1219 View Post
Couldn't take the doors off my tj because the light wouldn't turn off and it shot my battery.. What did I do.. Disconnected every damn light and took the doors off
You can pull the fuse for the dome lights or buy the springs that are made for the plungers that keep them in the closed position. Any of the on-line stores carry them but I can't remember a brand name right now.
Today 12:18 PM
Ander1219 Couldn't take the doors off my tj because the light wouldn't turn off and it shot my battery.. What did I do.. Disconnected every damn light and took the doors off
Today 12:18 PM
Sinister6 We went out and played!
Today 12:14 PM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by echo2 View Post
That would be the one....many vendors....so shop for best price....

Specs:

  • (6) each Comfort Grip Handles for Lifting and Towing (they spring back for convenience)
  • Large Spring-Loaded Catches
  • Large Stacking Ribs
  • Chemical Agent Decontaminable
  • Automatic Pressure Relief Valve
  • Edge Casters
  • ID Plate, Label Holder
  • 33" x 21" x 13" overall dimensions
  • 30" x 18" x 11" inside dimensions
  • Only weighs 25 lbs.
Thank you!
Today 12:08 PM
echo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Holton345 View Post
Which one? I see several sizes. The 33x21x13 one looks like it might fit. Yours fits really well. Can you post the dimensions? I will get one as soon as you post them up, or can confirm that what I posted is correct. THANKS!!!
That would be the one....many vendors....so shop for best price....

Specs:

  • (6) each Comfort Grip Handles for Lifting and Towing (they spring back for convenience)
  • Large Spring-Loaded Catches
  • Large Stacking Ribs
  • Chemical Agent Decontaminable
  • Automatic Pressure Relief Valve
  • Edge Casters
  • ID Plate, Label Holder
  • 33" x 21" x 13" overall dimensions
  • 30" x 18" x 11" inside dimensions
  • Only weighs 25 lbs.
Today 11:54 AM
Holton345 Click on User CP at the top of the page to see your updated subs.
Today 11:44 AM
Mad Mac The pictures and narratives are great and I am subscribed to this thread but I am not receiving notifications. I have no mods to report, but I am posting this anyway to see if that will get me notifications. Cheers.
Today 11:43 AM
Holton345
Quote:
Originally Posted by echo2 View Post
ebay....it's a Hardigg medical chest.

Which one? I see several sizes. The 33x21x13 one looks like it might fit. Yours fits really well. Can you post the dimensions? I will get one as soon as you post them up, or can confirm that what I posted is correct. THANKS!!!
Today 11:42 AM
jeff_in_rc
Quote:
Originally Posted by echo2 View Post
So far so good.....They are definitely solid and have multiple connection points. Little pricy but it's a jeep....everything can be a little pricy....

I had to get post shim....but no noticeable difference in connectivity.

In short...I'd buy them again for another vehicle.
Thanks, that is exactly what I wanted to hear!
Today 10:00 AM
echo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff_in_rc View Post
Hey echo how do you like those battery connectors? I have been looking at them for a while now. TIA!
So far so good.....They are definitely solid and have multiple connection points. Little pricy but it's a jeep....everything can be a little pricy....

I had to get post shim....but no noticeable difference in connectivity.

In short...I'd buy them again for another vehicle.
Today 09:49 AM
Rewind
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptoncannon View Post
Replaced my battery terminal connectors. After looking around, I couldn't find a write up on replacing the terminals so I came up with this.

I just bought the terminals from advanced auto for like $6. They have 2 bolts on the top, not necessarily intended for this use but there is a good connection regardless. They were coated so I had to grind the coating off the top with a bench grinder so a connection could be made. Anything could easily do that though, even a knife. Then I bought the 4 ga. battery lugs from autozone for I think $3.50 for a set of 2, you need 4 lugs in all. Then I just cut wiring from existing corroded terminals, pulled the insulation back, and crimped the lugs on and bolted it all together. Very simple fix and I like it because now I have an easy way to take my battery off!

Only did the negative terminal though.. Tan out of daylight yesterday. Positive will be the hardest because the bolt is stripped and terminals are melted... That will be done tonight

I'm interested in this. I read a few reviews that said the terminals would not stay tight. Let us know how this works in the long run!!!
Today 09:37 AM
jeff_in_rc Hey echo how do you like those battery connectors? I have been looking at them for a while now. TIA!
Today 09:14 AM
echo2
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptoncannon View Post
Replaced my battery terminal connectors. After looking around, I couldn't find a write up on replacing the terminals so I came up with this.

I just bought the terminals from advanced auto for like $6. They have 2 bolts on the top, not necessarily intended for this use but there is a good connection regardless. They were coated so I had to grind the coating off the top with a bench grinder so a connection could be made. Anything could easily do that though, even a knife. Then I bought the 4 ga. battery lugs from autozone for I think $3.50 for a set of 2, you need 4 lugs in all. Then I just cut wiring from existing corroded terminals, pulled the insulation back, and crimped the lugs on and bolted it all together. Very simple fix and I like it because now I have an easy way to take my battery off!

Only did the negative terminal though.. Tan out of daylight yesterday. Positive will be the hardest because the bolt is stripped and terminals are melted... That will be done tonight
Are you going to cover the pos. side with a barrier of any type?

I changed mine out a while back with these....



I ordered a piece of red Kydex to make a snap on cover for the pos side....just in case.
Today 07:45 AM
Fullback40 Such a simple yet highly useful mod.
Today 07:15 AM
ptoncannon And I do know that the cable lugs I took a picture of were for 2 ga. Wire. I just didn't know what to buy so I bought a few things.
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