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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-27-2013 07:19 PM
tmcd94 Youre at the other washington then! The wrong washington..... The ones who suppourt the penguins and steelers!
08-27-2013 05:59 PM
brachilius Actually...I am a 1/2 hour south of Pittsburgh. Go steelers!!!
08-27-2013 05:55 PM
tmcd94 Yep thats crazy that were that close, and doing the exact same swap! Im going to start playing around the pinion angle and perches after I order a new cv driveshaft so it may be about a week before I get into it!
08-27-2013 05:01 PM
brachilius Heck...your in Philly!
08-27-2013 05:01 PM
brachilius Haha! Let me know if you need any help.
08-27-2013 04:18 PM
tmcd94
Quote:
Originally Posted by brachilius View Post
Here is a pic of the welds of my ruff stuff shock mounts on my 8.8. It used my Lincoln from Lowes and .035 flux core wired. Notice the heat transfer through the opposite side. This weld is going no where,
Looks good to me, yet Im no welding expert. Good thing Washington, Pa is only around an hour away from me I pulled my 8.8 from a junkyard call junkyard barbie. Its from a 2001 with 4.10s and limited slip didnt get to crack the cover off it yet. Im going to order the ruff stuff hard ware tonight.
08-27-2013 11:00 AM
Yjforfun I'm a 18 year union Ironworker and have welded everything under the sun. You should always put a return or (wrap) on your welds. This will prevent the weld from (breaking it's back) under stress. And the quality of a weld is far better than quantity of bad welds. Practice on some scrap before the real deal to make sure your temp setting and wire speed is good.
08-27-2013 10:29 AM
crunky
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
looks good..if you run a bead down the backside also it will be even stronger
...or at least wrap the existing welds a tiny bit further up the insides.
Looks great none the less, I might go for one of those.
08-27-2013 10:24 AM
brachilius I am self taught. I welded a full cage when I was 19 and have been welding off and on since then on my own projects. I am 36 now.
08-27-2013 09:41 AM
harleydragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by brachilius View Post
Here is a pic of the welds of my ruff stuff shock mounts on my 8.8. It used my Lincoln from Lowes and .035 flux core wired. Notice the heat transfer through the opposite side. This weld is going no where,
looks good..if you run a bead down the backside also it will be even stronger
08-27-2013 09:12 AM
87 Florida YJ Looks real good to me. Are you self taught?
08-27-2013 09:05 AM
brachilius Here is a pic of the welds of my ruff stuff shock mounts on my 8.8. It used my Lincoln from Lowes and .035 flux core wired. Notice the heat transfer through the opposite side. This weld is going no where,
08-27-2013 08:09 AM
bc3_Jeep
ALSO not fully correcft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
E=IxR
voltage = current x resistence

This formula works FINE in DC circuits, but, in AC circuits, impedance due to inductance and capacitance ALSO need to be compensated/taken into account.

A combination of Impedance and Resistance is the culprit when you run too small of a diameter OR coil up an extension cord. It is these impedances which cause inductive heating due to APPARENT POWER vs REAL POWER.......

THIS is why I tell people to consult with EXPERTS instead of your forum wannabe,........
08-25-2013 09:29 AM
harleydragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 Florida YJ View Post
I'm speechless
they say that there is a first time for everything......
08-25-2013 09:17 AM
87 Florida YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
I thought MC2 was that guy that wears the funky pants
I'm speechless
08-25-2013 09:00 AM
harleydragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87 Florida YJ View Post
And don't forget E=MC2. That ones good too
I thought MC2 was that guy that wears the funky pants
08-25-2013 07:48 AM
87 Florida YJ And don't forget E=MC2. That ones good too
08-25-2013 07:45 AM
harleydragon E=IxR
voltage = current x resistence
08-25-2013 01:42 AM
bc3_Jeep NONE of these replies are fully correct.

The smaller the wire size and the longer the extension cord are, the MORE CURRENT it will TRY to provide for a given load. Power will attempt to remain equal across the circuit and if the smaller wire causes voltage drop, the current will attempt to rise to compensate. Also, if you leave ANY portion of the extension cord coiled up (ANY PORTION), it can cause inductive heating of the cord and melt it/start a fire under these kinds of loads EVEN IF it is correctly sized.

Voltage is NOT a constant. It can AND will be lowered at the point of use by internal resistance of wire AND current draw of the load. Volts dropped will be proportional to the current X the resistance of the cord. The larger the cord diameter (8 is larger than 10 is larger than 12 is larger than 14) The smaller the diameter of the wire, the more voltage lost for a given current. These are called I squared R losses and can be VERY significant in these kinds of situations. If you repeatedly blow a breaker your extension cord COULD be too small of wire.

You CAN but SHOULD NOT replace your breaker with a 20Amp UNLESS......A) the wire running FROM the breaker to the outlet (all of it, not just what is AT the outlet) is 12 or larger...... and B) Your outlet is ALSO rated for 20Amps.

If you have ANY doubts, contact a JOURNEYMAN ELECTRICIAN (not forum boards).... you are putting your property/family in danger not fully understanding these situations.
08-25-2013 12:46 AM
Cseistrup If you are going to use an extension cord, make sure it is rated 20 amps and keep it as short as possible. The longer the cord, the more the voltage drop.
08-24-2013 11:23 PM
Square_Eyes I swapped both front and rear axles in my heep with a little Lincoln 120 and haven't had any problems what so ever, just make sure the metal is clean and if are worried make a few passes on whatever youre welding.
08-24-2013 11:16 PM
Tyler92yj If the welder over loads the breaker it will just trip all you have to do is reset it its not a big deal if it does just turn down the heat a little I also used a 120 lincon to so my 8.8 swap welds haven't broke yet I've been wheeling about 10 times since the swap I used .030 wire
08-24-2013 11:05 PM
tmcd94 I believe in both cases of the 90 amp and the 140 amp out put both of them still recommended to be ran on a 20 amp line. Either way Im going to be looking into a 140 amp output, and getting as thick and short of a extension cord as possible to run from my kitchen.
08-24-2013 10:18 PM
harleydragon
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbannin View Post
The voltage and wire size do not matter. It is the amperage output of the machine that you need to consider. There are machines that run on 120 v but only have a 90 amp capacity output that you can buy cheap but there are machines that run on 120 that have 140+ amp output that cost a bit more. I know - I weld for a living. Do not buy a low amp machine because it will not do the job and you will regret it.
the voltage is a constant in this case 120 volts..the wire size and length of the extension cord does matter..the longer the cord and the smaller the wire then the more resistence it will have which will make less current available to the machine..yes,a 140 amp welder will weld thicker steel than a 90 amp welder but the circuit breaker and wiring that the welder is plugged into has to be able to supply the power that the welder is demanding
08-24-2013 09:57 PM
mbannin The voltage and wire size do not matter. It is the amperage output of the machine that you need to consider. There are machines that run on 120 v but only have a 90 amp capacity output that you can buy cheap but there are machines that run on 120 that have 140+ amp output that cost a bit more. I know - I weld for a living. Do not buy a low amp machine because it will not do the job and you will regret it.
08-24-2013 09:18 PM
harleydragon the longer the extension cord and the smaller the wire in it then the less current that will be available for the welder..so use as short of a cord as possible and as large a gauge one as you can find
08-24-2013 05:52 PM
tmcd94 Yeah I dont want to re wire, nor do I even know how to wire in a 20 amp line. Im going to look into those three you listed and hopefully theyll have some payment plan with 0 interest. Harbor freight is having a huge sale tomorrow and its pretty tempting to check it out.
08-24-2013 05:43 PM
CAJUN YJ I have a Hobart handler 140. I run it off of a 15 amp breaker with no issues. This machine burns very good for a 120v machine. I burned in my motor mounts in one pass with some .035 flux core wire. I'm no pro at welding but a 110-120v machine will beable to burn your perches in good as long as u get a quality machine. Miller, Lincoln, Hobart......
My issue was I wasn't going to re wire stuff in my shop just to have a dedicated outlet just for my welder. That's why I went with a 120v machine
08-24-2013 05:32 PM
brachilius Make sure it is a heavy duty extension cord. I picked one up at sam's club for $25. It is construction grade.
08-24-2013 04:49 PM
tmcd94 In my kitchen I know I have 20 amp breakers. Im going to pull my outlet out in my garage and just check for the possibly that there is #12 wired in. Worst case scenario Ill run an extension cord from my kitchen.
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