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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-06-2007 11:24 PM
hardy1531 Go to several diffrent stores and listen to them. see which ones sound best to YOU. My personal opinion? I would suggest Infinity, or Alpine. Those sound good to me.
06-06-2007 07:26 PM
Triple88a I have a custom box that fits 2 6x9s in it that i'm tryign to get rid of since i made 2 to see if it will be any difference if i use thicker wood. Anyhow if interested let me know man.. check out my sound setup and the speaker box on my car domain pg 3
06-06-2007 04:51 PM
Which 6 1/2" speakers in soundbar?

I'm ordering the 33 enginering adapter plates and putting 5 1/4" speakers in the front. I've read where people are putting 6 1/2's in the soundbar. Anyone done it already? Curious if there are limitations as to the depth and also curious what has to be done to put the 6 1/2's in. Thanks is a review I read that I thought might be helpful:

These plates worked much better than the mounts that I tried to fabricate myself. I would rate them as "Superior" if the price were under $20 or, even better, if shipping were free. *hint hint* If you have just the stock front dash speakers, let me share my upgrade experience step by step. Hopefully you can avoid the mistakes I made in my '97 TJ. Step #1 -- aftermarket Pioneer DEH-P4700MP headunit. (22W RMS/50W peak) Slightly clearer and louder through stock speakers, but not much of an improvement alone. Sound is still muddy, tinny and impossible to hear with the top down on the highway. No base at all. Step #2 -- Boston Acoustics 746 4 X 6" 2-Way Plate Speakers. (60W RMS/120W peak) Less muddy, less tinny, highs are cleaner, but still no base. Still can't hear vocals clearly with top down on the highway. Unsatisfied with the results, I don't suggest these speakers in a Jeep at all. Step #3 -- Infinity Reference 5010CS 5 1/4" component speakers (75W RMS/225W peak) with my own fab'ed mounts. Tweeter mounted on windshield uprights facing in, and connected to the "-3db" cross-over connector. Muddiness and tinnyness is gone, vocals are clear with the top down at highway speed. But still sub-standard base response. Step #4 -- Phoenix Gold Octane-R 4.0:2 amp (75W RMS/150W peak). Mostly the same except it gets louder quicker at lower volume settings on the head unit. Base is slightly improved, but now I can't turn it up all the way because the speakers will be over-driven. Skip the amp if you just have front speakers. Step #5 -- unhooked the amp, and replaced my fab'ed mounts with the 33 Eng. adapter plates and added batting (I couldn't add batting with my mounts). Better base response than with the amp connected! Finally a usable basic sound system, even if it is not a real powerful system. Base is adequate for normal listening. Step #6 -- JL-Audio TR650-CSi 6-1/2" Component Speakers (50W RMS/100W peak) installed in a set of speaker boxes in the rear. Run through the Phoenix Gold amp. Now that is a powerful sound system! I'm not into intense thumping base, you would need a subwoofer for that. But adding the rear speakers and sound boxes changed the base response from adequate to full and rich. Sound system can almost completely drown out wind, tire, and engine noise with the top down at highway speeds. It also has great detail and fullness at lower volumes with the top on driving around town. Most of the high-range and much of the mid-range response comes from the front speakers. If I fade to the rear, the highs and mid suffer greatly. Having the 5 1/4" front speakers is very important to the overall sound quality when using the speaker boxes mounted low behind the seats. If I had it all to to over again, I would have skipped the amp. Even the rear speakers are 90%-95% as good without the amp. The amp almost makes it stupid loud. I also would have skipped the Boston Acoustics 4X6 speakers.

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