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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2011 11:15 AM
ray1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by louie72 View Post
just wondering.do you think it was the temp. sensor and you just needed to reset the computer or do you think it was the o2 sensor.mine does the exact same thing and after all you have been through i am glad i ran across this post.and i thank you for being very desriptive.this helps me a bunch.
I'm sure it was the O2 Sensor. I did a search on the net and found out that with a bad O2 sensor, they can cause havoc. After I disconnected the battery all the codes went back to normal.

All I did on my YJ was turn the key on and off 3 times, without starting it, and the 3rd time leave it on. The "Check Engine" light will begin to blink a series of codes. Write them down and see what ya have.

--ray--
01-23-2011 03:03 AM
armadillo O2 sensor on mine. Replaced it and it's running great. mpg went from 10 to 13!! 13 sucks, but not as bad as 10. Going to regear soon. Hopefully get a couple more mpgs out of her.
01-22-2011 09:34 PM
louie72 just wondering.do you think it was the temp. sensor and you just needed to reset the computer or do you think it was the o2 sensor.mine does the exact same thing and after all you have been through i am glad i ran across this post.and i thank you for being very desriptive.this helps me a bunch.
01-07-2011 03:30 PM
ray1111 I made it to work fine just keepin it at 50-55. I decided to change the oil and clean the plugs. While I was doin this I disconnected the battery negative for bout an hour. I took the jeep for a drive on the highway then up town and back home the highway route. I checked my codes and all is clean. The O2S sensor codes are gone.
I'm hopin this will do it.
Thanks for all your help gang. It is greatly appreciated.
--ray--
01-06-2011 06:41 PM
armadillo Not a clue about the O2 sensor. Checked the ohm on my cts and it was out of spec. Instaled new on.... no change. I've noticed that when its acting up the idle is at 1300-1500 rpm. Normally 800. Wonder if this is a cause or effect of the real problem?
01-06-2011 03:20 PM
ray1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by armadillo View Post
Hey rey1111, sounds like you may have affected the problem when you changed the CTS. Check the terminals for any sines of a lose or bad conection / wires .
Did you mess any other plugs when you did the CTS ?
I have changed the CTS, fuel filter, distibutor cap and rotor cap, TPS and now the O2Sensor. I just changed that O2Sensor and took it down the highway.
I ran a code test when I got back. Now it is coming up 21, 02Sensor and 52, O2 Sensor Rich condition. Any ideas? Or is it that I didn't drive it far enough for the puter to reset?
I never had the 52 before I changed the O2Sensor...

--ray--
01-05-2011 10:31 PM
armadillo Hey rey1111, sounds like you may have affected the problem when you changed the CTS. Check the terminals for any sines of a lose or bad conection / wires .
Did you mess any other plugs when you did the CTS ?
01-05-2011 10:14 PM
armadillo Same issues here. Let us know if or when you figure it out. Just bought the chilton manual and a digital ohm meter. Intermitent electrical problems are not easy to find.New TPS,FPR,ASR,FF,IC and FP. The TPS did cure a dead spot in the throtel but the "stumble" is still there, some times.
01-04-2011 02:28 PM
ray1111 What can a bad oxygen sensor do? That is one of my codes.
--ray--
01-03-2011 05:49 PM
ray1111
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandomThoughts View Post
Just a quick thought: When the fellow changed out my cat, he said I had gotten lucky that the cat hadn't blown chunks into my muffler, which would block it as well and cause back-pressure to create the same problem. It would be occasional as the crud bounced around. Probably not, but thought I'd mention it just the same.


Take care... RT
Thanx Random but I did take off my whole exhaust to clean out the cat and it was all intact. I just replaced the TPS, throttle position sensor and it did no good.
--ray--
01-03-2011 04:39 PM
RandomThoughts Just a quick thought: When the fellow changed out my cat, he said I had gotten lucky that the cat hadn't blown chunks into my muffler, which would block it as well and cause back-pressure to create the same problem. It would be occasional as the crud bounced around. Probably not, but thought I'd mention it just the same.


Take care... RT


Quote:
Originally Posted by ray1111 View Post
Well I just took off the exhaust system and totally wiped out the inside of the cat. It still does it. I'm gonna have to go google the fuel return line pics and see if I can't find it and do that last test with the fuel line pressure. If anything, I'll go and open up my 8x8 inch hole I made in the back above my fuel pump just in case it did go out and pinch it off there.
Thanx for the help gang.
--ray--
01-02-2011 10:11 AM
ray1111 Well the problem is back after replacing the CTS, coolant temp sensor. It lasted about 2 weeks.
At 40-55 when I let off the gas a little to cruise at that speed it starts chocking. If i totally let off the gas to slow down it's fine. If I have let off the gas to cruise and it starts actin up and I give it more gas to go, it sounds fine. Now it's just when I let up a little to cruise at that speed. Ugh.
--ray--
12-21-2010 07:32 PM
SandyMushYJ I have heard of drivability problems caused by the CTS, but I never thought about it. I love my Snap-On Solus scanner, but it makes me think less.
12-21-2010 07:28 PM
ray1111 Actually it was a guy from another forum that mentioned it. He put it to me this way.
"Have you tried the coolant temp by the thermostat?" My reply was no, never thought of it.
His reply was, "Replace it then buy me a beer."
I replaced it and now I owe him a beer.
Before I replaced I thought about it and it does sound a bit logical. After thinking about it, when I took the jeep straight to the highway it was always at the same distance that it started to act up. At that distance is when the engine would be warming up and the cts not working would not be send the correct signals to the computer.
Well, like I said, so far it's working: Time will tell.
--ray--
12-21-2010 06:05 PM
SandyMushYJ Well, now, teach us something: What led you to try a CT sensor?
12-21-2010 04:05 PM
ray1111 So far it has turned out to be the Coolant Temp Sensor. There are two heat sensors on my jeep; one on the block for the temp gauge and one by the thermo for the computer. I changed the one by the thermostat.
I took my ol' YJ out on the highway and ran the crap out of it tryin to make it do it again but it wouldn't. I'm goin to try and drive it to work tomorrow which is bout 20 miles away and see what happens.
Thanx everyone for you replies and suggestions.

--ray--
12-19-2010 07:00 AM
ray1111 This is what I've been lookin at TPS:
Duralast/Throttle Position Sensor (TPS318) | Throttle Position Sensor | 1993 Jeep Wrangler 4WD 4 Cylinders P 2.5L MFI | AutoZone.com

and this:

Duralast/Vehicle Speed Sensor (SU394) | Vehicle Speed Sensor | AutoZone.com

Could these be possibilities?

Thanx
--ray--
12-19-2010 06:24 AM
ray1111 P.S.
I neglected to say that this didn't happen all at once. I had it happen one day then two days later it happen a little bit. Now it's everyday.
--ray--
12-18-2010 04:39 PM
ray1111 Appreciate it Frenchie. What sensors do I start with? Like I mentioned before here, I would just jump into it and start replacing everything but bein laid off for 2 years doesn't help that at all.
--ray--
12-18-2010 03:08 PM
Frenchie It doesn't sound like a fuel issue to me...sounds more like a sensor to me other wise around town would be a issue and it would happen right off the bat not abit down the road.
12-18-2010 01:40 PM
ray1111 The lowest gear/rpm that I had it mess up in was 4th at problably 2000. Other than that it's usually in 5th at around 2500 rpm give or take a few. I can jump right on the highway here at the house and it usually don't do it until about 2-3 miles. I can still drive around town here fine.
--ray--
12-18-2010 01:05 PM
Frenchie What rpms are you in when the studder begins and it may be your map/mass senor
12-18-2010 11:05 AM
ray1111 Well I just took off the exhaust system and totally wiped out the inside of the cat. It still does it. I'm gonna have to go google the fuel return line pics and see if I can't find it and do that last test with the fuel line pressure. If anything, I'll go and open up my 8x8 inch hole I made in the back above my fuel pump just in case it did go out and pinch it off there.
Thanx for the help gang.
--ray--
12-16-2010 06:02 PM
SandyMushYJ On most fuel-injected engines, the supply line is slightly larger than the return line. Maybe 5/16" supply and 1/4" return. I will try to find a location description via Google before I brave the rain to look under my hood.
12-16-2010 04:09 PM
ray1111 I bought a fuel line tester.
To do a test for my fuel pump my Haynes book says to pinch off the return line momentarily to get the pressure upto 95psi and immediatly turn off the engine and let it set for 30 minutes to see how much pressure drops. Either I am totally illiterate or just plain stupid, but I can not determine which line is the return on this 93. Almost 4yrs of college and you would think I'd be able to read of book. Ugh!
--ray--
12-16-2010 02:57 PM
RandomThoughts Happened to my '97 (5spd 4cyl). It started at 45 (off and on) then got progressively worse/slower. I could drive around town at first, then... not so much. The tone of the exhaust changed and there was a odd smell. A few weeks beforehand I heard the catalytic converter "death rattle", but mistook it for a loose shield and didn't check it out before I started to have a problem. Changed the converter and it is right as rain.

It mildly upset me as a converter is a bit above what I can fix by myself with my current tools and location. Ah, well, C'est la vie.


Merry Christmas... RT
12-16-2010 02:43 PM
SandyMushYJ Should be a Schrader valve on the fuel rail, and Chilton's says it should be about 39 psi w/engine running.
12-16-2010 02:35 PM
ray1111 I have an Advance Auto local and they said they didn't have that to rent out. They are the ones that will sell me one for 41.99. I just need to know if the 93 YJ has the Schrader valve test port. I know where it is, I just don't know if that is what it's called.
Thanx for all the great replies gang.
--ray--
12-16-2010 07:38 AM
White-Lightning I just fixed this problem on my jeep. It turned out to be the TPS. I got a new one at AutoZone for $35.00. Hope this helps.
12-15-2010 07:40 PM
SandyMushYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by ISUSteve View Post
A lot of auto places have loaner tools; I know Advance Auto here does. They are free to borrow as long as you return them.
Exactly; Autozone, too. You usually "buy" the tool with the understanding that it will be returned for a full refund. Done it several times. Just walk in and tell them you need a loaner or rental. On the other hand, Ray, a fuel pressure gauge is not a bad tool to have if funds permit.
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