|02-10-2011 10:06 PM|
|02-10-2011 08:36 PM|
I just purchased my jeep a couple of weeks ago and the PO had a New Slave and master cylinder replaced by a local ma and pa shop. He told me the clutch has never been the same since. I bled that thing several times with no success and finally purchased a Motive Pressure bleeder. My clutch pedal is rock solid and I am very pleased. You Can pick up the kit to do this on Ebay for 45 bucks.
I just thought I would throw this out there for the ones having problems.
|02-10-2011 06:57 PM|
|KYJeepMan1||I use a syringe to suck the old fulid out, and then add new. I've done this for years with power steering, brakes and clutch. It an easy way to get fresh fluid into the system.|
|02-10-2011 05:29 PM|
|89JEEPYJ||just drain the cluth fluid and then put new fluid in and rebleed it|
|02-10-2011 05:25 PM|
Just came from outside, white specs ( water ) floating on top of the clutch res. Took the Jeep for a short spin, no clutch pedal, pump it 7-8 times, put her in gear and go. But no sooner than you let out the pedal the pedal goes soft again. I guess my question would be contaminated fluid or clutch plates going south??
Crawled under the Jeep (after sweeping away the snow) saw no visable leaks,and after re=peated pumping of the clutch pedal the level is still the same in the res. Let me know what you all think, and as always, Thanks, Cman.
|02-10-2011 04:59 PM|
|02-10-2011 04:07 PM|
|Garyk||If it looks like its trying to freeze then you have moisture in the fluid and needs to be flushed, DOT 3 will absorb moisture, that's why they say not to use an opened can of fluid.|
|02-10-2011 02:19 PM|
|cman||Went out and checked the res. under the hood, looks like it might have been trying to freeze?? Almost milky white. I'm thinking this could be the problem ?I t was -6 this morning, above freezing tomorrow. If the problem " clears " up tomorrow I would think moisture contamination? Then I would assume I need to replace the DOT 3 fluid, and probally should anyway. Any thoughts as always will be great. Cman.|
|02-10-2011 12:56 PM|
Donít fill it past max. The fluid can eat away at the cap..
BLEED YOUR LINE
*Remove master Cyl cap
*Have someone stand over the res with dot3
*Get a 1/4" or so I.D. clear hose few feet long. Put it over the nipple of the bleeder screw. Fill a glass jar 1/2 full of dot3 place end of hose in jar. (Keeps air from being sucked back into the line)
*Open your bleeder line under the jeep
*Press the clutch with your hand and watch the bleeder at the same time.
*Keep pumping the clutch until there are no bubbles coming out then close the bleeder
(Note do not let the res go empty it will suck air from the top and you will be pumping a lot more to get the new air out.)
If this does not fix your problem replace the master cylinder and bleed the line. If this does not fix your problem you will be looking at dropping your transmission to replace either your clutch, slave cylinder or both.
|02-10-2011 10:47 AM|
|02-08-2011 02:12 PM|
I had mine do the hard to shift thing recently. The seal in the master cylinder had started to go and it was slowly leaking the clutch fluid into the passenger compartment. The Dust Boot inside between the Clutch Pedal Lever and the Master Cylinder had actually started to melt from the fluid.
The replacement was easy, not very expensive and the new Master cylinder was actually short enough to fit under the radiator support bar and still be able to open the reservoir.
|02-08-2011 09:16 AM|
thanks for all the help
thanks for the advise guys, the fluid level was a little low, so i topped it off, does not seem to be any leaks that i can see as of yet. I think the crazy snow we had in the chicago area was a huge factor in the clutch acting up seeing as there was snow packed all around the master cylinder under the hood that morning. haven't had any problems out of it for the last few days, and ive drivin back and forth to work, and my folks house a few times, (around 300 miles total, and about half stop and go traffic) if i do find a leak in the master, i'll switch it out, looked through the haynes and it doesn't seem to be too difficult, again, thank you for all the advice it was all very helpful.
|02-07-2011 11:59 PM|
I have had the same problems in my '93. It can mean one or two things:
1. Like the previous guy was saying, you may just need to add some clutch fluid or bleed the lines.
2. Your clutch master cylinder might be going bad. This happened to me once when i was on vacation. Not too hard to fix and pretty inexpensive.
hope this can be a help.
|02-03-2011 10:57 PM|
well i gotta tell ya, you have been more than helpful today, i'll figure it out, i have 2 haynes manuals, but they're both at my parents house, when the suns out I'll have a look, i can drive her fine enough to work tonight.
Again, thank you for all the help today, i'll have to let you know how the two issues pan out (if you're interested)
|02-03-2011 10:54 PM|
|89JEEPYJ||lol i got a automatic and havent really ever worked on a manual besides on my dads XL-7. there should be a lil cup type thing by the drivers side firewall next to the motor but i honstely dont know where it is|
|02-03-2011 10:49 PM|
|mouse2959||jeez bud, i think i need to make you my best friend haha, the dash lights and now the clutch help, how do i go about adding fluid, i think thats about the only fluid I haven't had to add in the 10 years I've had her|
|02-03-2011 10:44 PM|
|89JEEPYJ||well clutchs do get worn down, if u beat on it usually lasts 50k but can last way longer. u might need to bleed the clutch or add more fluid|
|02-03-2011 10:41 PM|
heres another one for the forum here: just recently my clutch pedal is very soft, i can't feel the clutch until about halfway to the floor, and it is getting increasingly difficult to put her in reverse, 95 wrangler (4 banger), once i get going the drive gears are fine, but reverse is still a pain. I'm completely lost, never had to mess with the clutch before, It has been replaced about 2 years ago when I put a new trans in it, so its much newer than anything else on her.