|08-11-2013 06:52 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||My Spectra fuel pump & FPR lasted about a year before it started letting the fuel drain down out of the fuel rail. I now have to cycle my ignition switch 6-8 times to get fuel back up to the fuel rail so the engine will start. I installed the Spectra out of low funds desperation, I'll be replacing it with an OE Mopar asap.|
|08-11-2013 05:33 PM|
ok, so.... your fuel pressure was low... that means the fuel pump itself is gone/going.
if your fuel pressure is high it means your regulator.
normal pressure is 45-54 psi. <according to the haynes> I replaced my whole fuel sending unit with one from spectra premium. Got it off amazon.com. cost me 120.00 free shipping. comes with a new everything. even the rubber gasket that seals the ring to the tank. I had to replace my tank skid, so I replaced that while I was down there too. also the straps. <looking back I should have done the rear track bar too >
|08-11-2013 05:01 PM|
|Dlwmorgan||So I just changed my FPR and still have the problem to crank the ignition a few times to get it started. And by a few times i mean like 20-30 minutes. Are there any other solutions? I am going to replace the spark plugs to see if that helps even though I just changed them not to long ago. I'm out of ideas on what the problem is. Could it be the crank sensor? Any help would much appreciated!|
|07-09-2013 12:34 PM|
|06-24-2013 06:55 PM|
|tightlines||Okay, I have been having similar issues. Just ordered an new FPR and hopefully I can get-R-dun as soon as the part comes in. Thanks for the info Jerry. I will post the results of my efforts.|
|01-20-2013 12:03 PM|
Great post up Jerry,thanks as iam having some problems with mine i think as well.
|09-20-2012 08:06 PM|
|09-20-2012 08:03 PM|
|BigGreenMachine||Is this guy ^ always arguing with you Jerry?|
|09-20-2012 07:59 PM|
|09-20-2012 07:52 PM|
The FSM is wrong? Uh huh, whatever you say.
Edit: Oh nice edit to delete where you just claimed the FSM was wrong.
|09-20-2012 07:48 PM|
Not everything in the FSM is correct.
Fact is, the FSM does not state that there is a check valve in the FPR.
|09-20-2012 07:44 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Go argue with the FSM.|
|09-20-2012 07:35 PM|
Fuel entering the regulator has two ways to get out. One of those options should be unavailable below about 50 psi. Unless it leaks.
Reasonable people don't invent theories that happen to fit the circumstances and them preach them as gospel.
|09-20-2012 07:07 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||You're just being argumentative... that "relief mechanism" is a relieve valve (valve is the word you used for it elsewhere) which also serves as a check valve. When it leaks, it allows the fuel to drain past it and back down into the gas tank... as you even described in another of your posts today. Reasonable people who aren't just trying to be argumentative simply call it an anti-drainback valve since when it works properly, it prevents fuel from leaking around the FPR and back down into the gas tank.|
|09-20-2012 06:24 PM|
There is a check valve in the pump assy, but the FPR is your most likely culprit. In the vast majority of cases, replacing the FPR will solve a "slow start" condition.
|09-20-2012 05:43 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Your mechanic is wrong, the fuel pressure regulator which contains the anti-drain back valve is located on top of the fuel tank as described above.|
|09-20-2012 05:12 PM|
|jleahy||I spoke to my jeep mechanic today and he told me the FPR is located at the fuel outlet under the hood and that the check valve is located on top of the tank. I have a 4.0 and am wondering if it's possible that just the FPR could be bad vs. the check valve or as someone posted, it would have to be both? Can someone clarify please?|
|09-05-2012 01:59 PM|
yeah, I think thats mostly the case.
the assembly is actually the same but early on in 97 they were still using the YJ plugs, they upgraded the plugs late in 97 and retrofit all pumps. the only options I have at the moment are.
1) splice the old wiring onto the new assembly
2) splice a new plug to the jeep side
3) buy a $50 wiring harness from jeep to convert old plug to new
I will likely just splice the wiring harness from the old into the new, unless I can find a reasonable adapter.. I really don't like those options but they will work.
|09-05-2012 12:11 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||VERY early '97 TJs often used 1995 Wrangler YJ parts, particularly electrical like sensors. You may need to use a fuel pump out of a '95. I had to use a '95 Throttle Position Sensor when I needed to replace it in my '97. The '97 TPS I first bought had a different connector than what my '97 had but the '95 TPS fit perfectly.|
|09-05-2012 11:56 AM|
as far as I know the only actual difference between the 15 and 19 gallon pump assembly is the fuel gauge arm. its shorter on the 15 because full is at a shallower spot on the tank.
one thing im trying to figure out... My 97 has a square plug, and all replacements seem to have a rectangular plug...
this is what mine looks like
It almost looks like a dodge dakota fuel assembly.. im so confused
|07-12-2012 08:01 PM|
My 97 Wrangler TJ Sport build sheet states it has a 15 gallon tank and when I dropped the tank and pulled the fuel pump assembly I noticed that it was for a 15 gallon tank (Says it on the side). I bought the fuel pump assembly for the 19 gallon tank and it appeared identical in size compared to the 15 gallon pump I pulled. I threw the new pump in and it fit and worked like a champ. I also did the mod to cut down the breather hose as well. Filled up the tank and was able to get over 17 gallons in there.
From what I can tell, if you have a 15 gallon tank and need a new fuel pump assembly, just buy the one for the 19 gallon tank because it is cheaper, fits and works great. I was seeing the 15 gallon tank fuel pump assembly selling for almost $100 more in some cases. Some brands were only $20 more but why waste your money when you don't have to.
|07-09-2012 07:36 PM|
|07-09-2012 07:22 PM|
|Leeroy Jeepkins||i have the same problem and just ran a 24 hr test on my jeep. last night i decided to park my Jeep with the front facing downhill (I usually park the opposite way). when i went to start the Jeep it started much faster.i'm thinking once with the ignition trick might be best. don't quote me on this but i believe front facing downhill keeps fuel in the line via gravity.|
|07-09-2012 07:16 PM|
|arineod||Just about 96k for me on my 97 TJ Sport|
|07-09-2012 04:15 PM|
|Gorving3||About how many miles are most of you getting on your Jeep before the fuel pressure regulator/fuel pump has to be replaced? I have approx 65,000 on my 2001 Wrangler 4.0 and was wondering if I'm getting close to "D" day or if it's generally over 100,000 miles. Or maybe time enters into the factor as much as useage.|
|07-09-2012 02:24 AM|
|Redsand||Think mines going out too, gonna keep it less than 1/2 tank for a few weeks just in case|
|07-09-2012 01:28 AM|
|Gorving3||I noticed RockAuto has 5 different brands of fuel pump assemblys ranging in price from $155 to $354. Bosch is the highest price one, does it really make any difference in quality and performance which brand/price a person gets?|
|07-08-2012 03:28 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Sometimes a build sheet says 15 gallon tank near the top but later says it was upgraded to a 19 gallon within a package of options... especially on a Sport which seldom came with a 15 gallon tank. And the rumor says the 15 gallon tank is really a 19 gallon tank but with a different vent hose length. Some say they have modified their vent hose to turn their 15 gallon tank into a 19 gallon tank. If I were a betting man I'd bet the 19 gallon tank fuel pump would fit your TJ.|
|07-08-2012 01:43 PM|
|arineod||I plan on replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. My build sheet says I have a 15 gal tank on my 97 TJ sport. The fuel pump assembly for the 15 gal tank is a lot more in price! Will the 19 gal fuel pump assembly work/fit?|
|03-24-2012 08:03 PM|
ok guys I may have the same type of problem however if my jeep sits overnight it isn't a hard crank however if I drive it to the store then come back out it doesn't want to crank. I tested the pressure on the fuel bar after I turned the key off and not a drop of fuel came out. While running it as strong as ever well really stronger I just rebuilt the engine and bored it out a little. I did get about gallon of water in my tank during a hurricane last season and to drop my tank and empty it while I was at the coast to remove the water and junk from it. I have had this problem for over a year however it just seems to be getting wrost now any help I will be thankful
|This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|