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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-30-2007 08:07 PM
GrnTJ glad to hear you got it all worked out!
07-30-2007 08:19 AM
2/40's
Quote:
Originally Posted by dj_chizzle View Post
BUMP

had any luck figuring out your problem? i will probably be doing my brakes next weekend for the first time and was wondering if there was anything i should look out for...
I finally figured it out this weekend!! I took it to a local shop to have them balance the two front wheels and they tell me i have a bent rim.

They tell me these "type" of tires need to be rotated often. they pointed to a number of raised areas (in very broken english) but i'm suprised i have a bent rim considering i don't drive over potholes and i haven't taken it off road yet..

the brakes are still working fine..
07-12-2007 07:41 AM
erickpl Even the parts store will tell you to use brake cleaner, but that is still wrong. Residues will help prevent the pads from gripping properly. When I did my rotors last weekend, I hosed em both with a good shot of Simple Green, tilted them to have the excess run off, then set them in the sun for a few minutes to dry as I took the tires and old stuff off.

During break-in, your pads will likely stink if you are doing it correctly. Once broken in, they shouldn't have the smell or sound anymore.
07-11-2007 11:13 PM
2/40's
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJeeper View Post
Ummmm, no. :chair: The rotors come covered with oil to keep them from rusting. You are supposed to remove it before installing them. Soap and water works wonders, or Simple Green. Do not use brake cleaner, it leaves a residue.
I wish i had known that before i put them on.
07-11-2007 10:56 PM
TJeeper
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2/40's View Post
it appears as if the rotors come out of the box coated with a sort of grease that aids the break-in process..
Ummmm, no. :chair: The rotors come covered with oil to keep them from rusting. You are supposed to remove it before installing them. Soap and water works wonders, or Simple Green. Do not use brake cleaner, it leaves a residue.
07-11-2007 09:19 PM
2/40's good call erickpl!... i'm in ohio on business right now but as soon as i get back to NJ i'm swapping the rotors...

btw: i came across a thread on another jeep forum and someone had the same smoking issues i had after swapping in new rotors & pads (ebc performance)... it appears as if the rotors come out of the box coated with a sort of grease that aids the break-in process..
07-08-2007 10:53 AM
erickpl Have you tried swapping the parts that you put on? I mean, swap the rotors from side to side and see if the problem follows the rotors. If so, you may have a bad rotor. If it doesn't follow it, the problem lies with the tire/wheel and just rebalance it.

Best way to track down new problems after doing a mod is to change the configuration. This process will isolate if the problem is the new rotor or the tire/wheel assembly.
07-07-2007 03:49 PM
2/40's I pulled off the wheel and looked everthing over.. the only thing i noticed was that my tire was a little warped.. they're still fairly new.. so i checked out my spare tire (looking to swap the two) and noticed my spare has a brad sticking out of it.. when i get back home i'm going to swap both front tires to see if i can replicate the issue on the driver's side..

..the rotors came out of the package with a grease-like substance on them... you may have to wash that stuff off. i didn't, and after driving it around a bit and doing some down-hill braking, my brakes were smoking! i hosed them off and we had some rain for a few days and now i'm stopping smoothly and quickly. i've only done about 200 miles since the change and i'm still happy with the PBR rotors & pads...
07-07-2007 10:51 AM
dj_chizzle BUMP

had any luck figuring out your problem? i will probably be doing my brakes next weekend for the first time and was wondering if there was anything i should look out for...
07-06-2007 01:39 PM
2/40's OK so i read the sticky re: deathwobble and i'm still perplexed..

the problem is that i didn't change my suspension.. only the rotors & pads.
07-02-2007 08:18 AM
2/40's driving to work this morning, i'm still getting the feedback from the front right wheel. ..still goes straight but i feel wobbling/hopping..

any ideas?? i didn't knock the weight off the tire.. the dealer did have to tighten my sway bar the last time i brought it in for service.. has anyone experienced this issue before? since the dealer tightened the sway bar i haven't touched it.
06-30-2007 09:31 PM
2/40's i finally got around to putting on the new pbr rotors & pads and now i'm getting the shakes at around 53 mph from the front right side. is it possible i have a balance issue?
06-13-2007 04:20 PM
2/40's many many thanks!!
06-13-2007 02:44 PM
1BLKJP Changing pads and rotors there are only 7 lugs/bolts that you have to remove. I don't know exactly what the torque specs are for the 13mm bolts for the calipers, but don't lean on them to hard. You want to tighten them up just to the point where you feel it in your wrench. Don't want to strip them out.

The lugs should be about 110 pounds.
06-13-2007 08:50 AM
2/40's ok.. so i got my pbr rotors & pads in the mail yesterday, i'm putting everything on tomorrow.. can anyone provide me with the torques specs for this job?
05-31-2007 04:51 PM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2/40's View Post
Here is a pic of the PBR rotor.. looks cast..

It is.
05-31-2007 03:44 PM
2/40's Here is a pic of the PBR rotor.. looks cast..
05-31-2007 03:14 PM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2/40's View Post
OK! i checked out their website and it doesn't mention being all-cast.. does this mean it is not all-cast..

Here are the specifics as marketed for OEM Replacement disc rotors:

High-carbon, grey iron Lower noise propensity
Higher resistance to cracking

Optimised rotor design Significantly reduces rotor coning under high temperature

Unique ventilation Optimal cooling behaviour without increased mass
Improved resistance to thermal judder
Low transient and permanent deformation

Precise machining tolerances Extremely low brake shudder
Very low levels of lateral run-out
Description was written by an amateur.

There is no common descriptive term to describe any ailment brake rotors produce known as "shudder". The correct term is judder which sounds close to shudder, which is only used when you don't know what you're talking about.
05-31-2007 03:11 PM
mrblaine cast


composite

05-31-2007 11:58 AM
Jerry Bransford None of that indicates they are cast or composite. I would simply ask the manufacturer or the dealer to be sure that those are all cast rotors. Dang, there was a great comparison photo posted posted somewhere in the past week or two that shows the difference between cast and composite rotors, I couldn't find it though.
05-31-2007 11:09 AM
2/40's
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Just make sure it's an all-cast rotor and not the cheaper composite rotor design that came on earlier TJs. You can still buy composite rotors in the aftermarket so be wary there. All-cast hold up MUCH longer, can be turned at least several times, and are not prone to warping like the lighter weight composite rotors are. Avoid the gimmicky cross-drilled, slotted, or dimpled rotors too that don't help a Jeep's braking in the least.
OK! i checked out their website and it doesn't mention being all-cast.. does this mean it is not all-cast..

Here are the specifics as marketed for OEM Replacement disc rotors:

High-carbon, grey iron Lower noise propensity
Higher resistance to cracking

Optimised rotor design Significantly reduces rotor coning under high temperature

Unique ventilation Optimal cooling behaviour without increased mass
Improved resistance to thermal judder
Low transient and permanent deformation

Precise machining tolerances Extremely low brake shudder
Very low levels of lateral run-out
05-31-2007 10:42 AM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2/40's View Post
sorry for the mix-up.. i was calling autozone to see if rotors were sold in sets or individually. at $55 i was hoping that was a set but i think that price is for one Duralast rotor only..

"high performance OEM apps and a lot of aftermarket stuff that's high performance as well" - i think i'm convinced, i'm going with the PBR... half the price + excellent quality = satisfied (&loyal) customer..
Please read what I said carefully. Their calipers are known for being high quality. I have no experience with their rotors.
05-31-2007 10:31 AM
Jerry Bransford Just make sure it's an all-cast rotor and not the cheaper composite rotor design that came on earlier TJs. You can still buy composite rotors in the aftermarket so be wary there. All-cast hold up MUCH longer, can be turned at least several times, and are not prone to warping like the lighter weight composite rotors are. Avoid the gimmicky cross-drilled, slotted, or dimpled rotors too that don't help a Jeep's braking in the least.
05-31-2007 09:58 AM
2/40's sorry for the mix-up.. i was calling autozone to see if rotors were sold in sets or individually. at $55 i was hoping that was a set but i think that price is for one Duralast rotor only..

"high performance OEM apps and a lot of aftermarket stuff that's high performance as well" - i think i'm convinced, i'm going with the PBR... half the price + excellent quality = satisfied (&loyal) customer..
05-31-2007 09:51 AM
mrblaine
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2/40's View Post
What's the difference? the PBR is $28/rotor and the Duralast is $55/rotor (i called autozone to confirm but they forgot i was on hold)..
That's a bit confusing. PBR is an Australian company known for high quality calipers used on high performance OEM apps and a lot of aftermarket stuff that's high performance as well. The Cobra and Corvette OEM calipers are PBR.

I would guess their rotors are good, but have no experience with them.
05-31-2007 09:38 AM
2/40's
PBR vs. Duralast rotors

What's the difference? the PBR is $28/rotor and the Duralast is $55/rotor (i called autozone to confirm but they forgot i was on hold)..

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