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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-14-2011 11:33 PM
TheFix
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
In my personal opinion... if you do lots of deep soupy mud, yes. If you don't do much mud, I personally would not run a greasable u-joint. Well technically I do run a greasable u-joint but it's a CTM that's around $180 each with each bearing cap having its own needle zerk fitting.

The type of greasable u-joint I would not run unless I did a lot of deep soupy mudding is the type that has a single grease zerk fitting on the body that is used to grease all four bearing caps. That type of u-joint has been cross-drilled with grease channels inside the body so the grease can reach all four bearing caps which weakens the u-joint body.

For a huge percentage of us who offroad (or don't offroad) a traditional sealed u-joint is maintenance free and highly durable. I have run greasable u-joints a few times and to keep up with their grease demands is a PITA that is not warranted, in my opinion, by any socially redeeming values... unless (again) you do deep soupy mud a lot where a greasable u-joint then becomes a good idea. I haven't run greasable u-joints on my driveshafts in years and I'm happy I don't.
Makes sense to me... thanks for the thorough explanation.
03-12-2011 07:51 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheFix View Post
...are any of the u-joints that have a lubrication zerk worth considering?
In my personal opinion... if you do lots of deep soupy mud, yes. If you don't do much mud, I personally would not run a greasable u-joint. Well technically I do run a greasable u-joint but it's a CTM that's around $180 each with each bearing cap having its own needle zerk fitting.

The type of greasable u-joint I would not run unless I did a lot of deep soupy mudding is the type that has a single grease zerk fitting on the body that is used to grease all four bearing caps. That type of u-joint has been cross-drilled with grease channels inside the body so the grease can reach all four bearing caps which weakens the u-joint body.

For a huge percentage of us who offroad (or don't offroad) a traditional sealed u-joint is maintenance free and highly durable. I have run greasable u-joints a few times and to keep up with their grease demands is a PITA that is not warranted, in my opinion, by any socially redeeming values... unless (again) you do deep soupy mud a lot where a greasable u-joint then becomes a good idea. I haven't run greasable u-joints on my driveshafts in years and I'm happy I don't.
03-12-2011 11:52 AM
TheFix
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
A very good u-joint that is stronger and more durable direct replacement for the driveshaft's OE u-joint is Spicer's triple-sealed 5-785x.
I'd like to ask on (and add to) this thread, since it's something I've been wondering about for some time now, are any of the u-joints that have a lubrication zerk worth considering?
03-12-2011 10:42 AM
CollegeGeezer Here is the drivers side

Here is my Track Bar

Keep in mind...
99 TJ
4.0L
5sp.
Stock
No wheeling ( I'm a broke student and can't afford to fix it...)
Thoughts?

Also I am in Canada, what is the best place to buy the Spicers? What should I expect to pay?

Thanks everyone.
03-12-2011 09:29 AM
CollegeGeezer ill go out after breakfast and take a quick video maybe that will help
03-12-2011 09:16 AM
Jerry Bransford I don't know what free play you are seeing. The normal back and forth rotational driveshaft that is caused by the backlash (slop) between the ring & pinion gears, or from the u-joints themselves. The u-joints should only have any movement about the axises (is that a word? ) of their four bearing caps but no movement or slop along any other axis.

A very good u-joint that is stronger and more durable direct replacement for the driveshaft's OE u-joint is Spicer's triple-sealed 5-785x.
03-12-2011 09:11 AM
CollegeGeezer
U-Joint question....

So I finally climbed under the jeep and had a look around. I found that my track bar bushings are pretty much gone as it wiggles and jiggles.

I also grabbed my drivers side u-joint and moved it around. I noticed it has about 1/4" free play. I also noticed that if i grab the drive shaft coming out of the transmission and spin it, I can turn it back and forth because of that free play..

Im pretty certain that the ujoint needs to go so my questions are...

should I do both axles?

Should I do ball joints at the same time?

What else should I look into while I'm in there.

Is this freeplay the sign of a bad u-joint? I have been noticing a funny noise in the front end which is why i went underneath....

Ive read the write up on here and will pretty much follow that. Can you offer any advice for a first timer?

Thanks a bunch folks,

John

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