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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-09-2014 10:51 AM
TrippleYoi Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. I went with the Bazooka sub and it's like night and day.
08-14-2013 11:01 AM
louczar Thanks again for the feedback! I am looking more into it and talking to some old audio junkies here at work. They are very divided on using an amplified output from the deck to the original amp. The only other variable is that the THD would be amplified by the stock amp. That shouldn't be a major issue having the frequency cut off for the correct range of a sub.
08-14-2013 09:33 AM
Big Sarge Well I'm not as audio savvy as others so hopefully they will chime in. I can only tell you that from personal experience, and doing that other Jeep for uponone, and what many others here have done, you will have no issues with the setup that I described. I do understand enough to know that not having the proper ohm rated speaker for an amplifier can cause it to heat up and eventually fail. As far as what impedance the factory radio and other aftermarket head units put out I do not know. Again I have personally installed two of these "stock" subwoofer setups with the kicker and had no problems thus far. I have been runing my sub for nearly a month already with no issues.
08-14-2013 09:00 AM
louczar His stock deck is almost completely non functional. The CD player does not work and the volume / power control arm is broken internally. The only way to try to adjust the volume is to use pliers on pull on the volume arm to turn it. It doesn't really work well as turning it clockwise will increase and decrease the volume. We got it set to a nominal level and use the 3 band EQ to adjust the volume up and down at this point

Until I take the console apart, I wont really know if he has a sub / amp in it or not. That was why I asked about the stock amp being proprietary to the stock deck.

If the stock amp is getting its input from the rear speaker wires, then that would not work well when I replace the deck that has (what I believe) will be an amplified output to the speakers (unless it is designed that way). You could probably add some info on that part with the experience you have with the system.

As I am typing this, I am wondering about what you said that the stock amp is getting its inputs from the rear speakers in the stock config. Using the rear speaker outputs from the new deck to the existing amp ( if it is there and if it is possible) may have an effect on the impedance on those channels in combination with the new sound bar speakers I plan to install. Amps typically use low level inputs. If this amp can use amplified inputs to drive, I dont expect it to affect the impedance of the rear speakers. But if it does and depending what type of impedance in would introduce could cause an issue with the new deck outputs. Paralleled resistance with the new speakers would change the 2 rear channel impedance. If the 4 ohm impedance is changed to a higher value, the new deck would not drive as much power to the sound bar speakers. If it is lower value, the 2 rear channels of the new deck would be driving harder and possibly cause heat / failure problems. I cant say for sure that this would happen. Most of the new decks only specify the output wattage and do not specify the expected impedance levels. In the past they have been 4/8 ohm.

Sorry for the long thought process. I'm just trying to think about all the variables that will / may come into play when we upgrade...
08-14-2013 06:40 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by louczar View Post
First off, nice thread!!! I just bought my son a 2002 wrangler and we have been doing all the maintenance on it from the axles up. That being said...

I did not know the jeep had a sub in it. His stock deck is semi functional (at best). I see where the sub should be. No surprise there is no sound coming out of it at this time. I will help him (me do the work and let him watch and learn) to update his stereo and speakers. His deck will have to be replaced!
From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub
This leads me to my questions...

From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub?

The amp has a proprietary interface to the stock deck (not a standard RCA out to normal amps)?

I will be installing a new deck, speakers (in dash and sound bar), sub and a small bridged mono amp that will have to have a built in crossover if the stock amp will have to be replaced with the deck. Everything will be of a proper size to fit in existing stock space.

I have looked at lots of the links from this thread and will be getting my list for his (my...lol) final selections.
Yes the stock amp is in The subwoofer box along with the sub. It is powered by the rear speaker leads. Unless he is looking to win competitions I would say just stick with the stock amp and the 1 ohm kicker that I listed previously. I run a stock head unit and that sub has plenty of bump. I did an install this past weekend for uponone, another forum member. I did the dash speaker brackets from Nalin (also a forum member) with the 5 1/4" in the dash and 6.5" in the soundbar with an aftermarket Kenwood head unit. His thumps way more than mine does due to the higher powered head unit. Let me know if you have any questions or need wiring help. If the sub was not installed originally you will have to build a wiring harness likely. My jeep and uponones jeeps are older and did not have the option for a sub when they were built but we both got our hands on the newer consoles and got them wired up and working.
08-13-2013 11:00 PM
Stevacho Sounds good. Let us know what items you went with. I will say that I am happy with the sub I have, but it is not an exact fit. Apart from trimming out the 'C shape' and other fins, I also heated up a section of the factory sub box. I did this so that I could create more room to allow the sub I purchased to fit. I am only telling you this due to that if you are going to run a separate mono amp for the sub, then the sub I purchased would be a great option. For as much as I like the little extra thump I am getting from the stick amp. I could be getting so much more, and kinda wish I was.
08-13-2013 09:31 PM
louczar First off, nice thread!!! I just bought my son a 2002 wrangler and we have been doing all the maintenance on it from the axles up. That being said...

I did not know the jeep had a sub in it. His stock deck is semi functional (at best). I see where the sub should be. No surprise there is no sound coming out of it at this time. I will help him (me do the work and let him watch and learn) to update his stereo and speakers. His deck will have to be replaced!
From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub
This leads me to my questions...

From what I read / seen so far is that the stock amp is in the console with the sub?

The amp has a proprietary interface to the stock deck (not a standard RCA out to normal amps)?

I will be installing a new deck, speakers (in dash and sound bar), sub and a small bridged mono amp that will have to have a built in crossover if the stock amp will have to be replaced with the deck. Everything will be of a proper size to fit in existing stock space.

I have looked at lots of the links from this thread and will be getting my list for his (my...lol) final selections.
07-30-2013 12:17 PM
Stevacho I am now debating weather I should tell Crutchfield to send me the 1ohm instead, or just wait and give the 2ohm a try once it gets here.

Thanks for the info, and I will also see what kind of information I can get Crutchfield provide me.
07-30-2013 07:59 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevacho View Post
I am very interested in your sub's performance and install because I ordered the 2ohm version of your sub.
Kicker 40CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I went with the 2ohm because I also read that the factory sub was 2ohm and DVC. I figured this would be a good replacement. May I ask why you went with the 1ohm, and what recommendations you or anyone on this thread have for me?

Also I will be running an aftermarket head unit.
Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
Well I ordered the 1 Ohm because I thought I had read some where that it was a 1 ohm DVC sub. I have also read things saying that the stock sub is a 2 ohm sub wired to show the amp 1 Ohm of resistance. So in short...... I ordered before I verified. That said, I went ahead and installed that sub. At first I had it wired in series off one channel only, while it sounded ok I was certain that I could get more out of it. After conversing with another forum member, he told me that his buddy is an audio guy and tested the two subs. The 1 ohm sub had 1.2 ohms of resistance, and the stock 2 ohm had 1.4 ohms of resistance.

Yesterday I went back in and re wired mine, wired it like the stock configuration. I must say it made a huge improvement! I was truly shocked that that little sub can put out that kind of sound. Time will tell if it heats up the amp or not, but for now I have not noticed any problems. I would reccomend this sub 100% to anybody. You also have to remember I was upgrading from not having a sub what so ever, as they were not even an option in 1998 for my Jeep.
07-30-2013 01:44 AM
Stevacho
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
I added the sub console to my 98 and got everything wired up. Of course the sub was blown but I expected that. I ordered a DVC 1 OHM Kicker (link below). I wired it only off the black and red pair in a series configuration. I feared ruining the factory amp by running both pairs. Does anybody have any input on running both pairs to a 1 ohm sub? Would it ruin my amp as I think?

Kicker 40CWRT671 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I am very interested in your sub's performance and install because I ordered the 2ohm version of your sub.
Kicker 40CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 2-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
I went with the 2ohm because I also read that the factory sub was 2ohm and DVC. I figured this would be a good replacement. May I ask why you went with the 1ohm, and what recommendations you or anyone on this thread have for me?

Also I will be running an aftermarket head unit.
Pioneer DEH-P8400BH CD receiver at Crutchfield.com
07-16-2013 08:11 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedyrev View Post
I don't think the stock head has enough punch to drive that speaker effectively. At 1 ohm your amp is going to be running hot. Wiring in a series gets you to 2 ohms but I don't know what the wiring is like at the amp side, so I can't give you advice there.
Subs tend to like more headroom. I always oversize the amp to the sub.
Yeah I kind of feared running the amp hot which is why I wired it in a series configuration. It sounds pretty good just was wondering if it could sound better. I have just read so many different things about the amp I don't know what to believe and what not to.

I have read that it is a 2 ohm DVC speaker. Then I have read that it is a 2 Ohm DVC wired to show the amp 1 ohm of resistance. I have even read that people put in 4 ohm speakers.

I tried to use my multimeter and get the actual resistance off the factory sub but it keeps showing me zero ohms. I tried on a few different speakers and it also shows zero. Not sure what I am doing wrong.
07-16-2013 07:56 AM
speedyrev I don't think the stock head has enough punch to drive that speaker effectively. At 1 ohm your amp is going to be running hot. Wiring in a series gets you to 2 ohms but I don't know what the wiring is like at the amp side, so I can't give you advice there.
Subs tend to like more headroom. I always oversize the amp to the sub.
07-15-2013 09:24 AM
Big Sarge I added the sub console to my 98 and got everything wired up. Of course the sub was blown but I expected that. I ordered a DVC 1 OHM Kicker (link below). I wired it only off the black and red pair in a series configuration. I feared ruining the factory amp by running both pairs. Does anybody have any input on running both pairs to a 1 ohm sub? Would it ruin my amp as I think?

Kicker 40CWRT671 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 1-ohm voice coils at Crutchfield.com
07-13-2013 06:55 PM
unlimitedsoldier ok so im guessing the sub is a 6.5 inch?
07-09-2013 02:22 PM
OhSixTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by idostuff View Post
put in the WX65X last night to replace the factory sub (wasn't blown, just wanted a little more bass). connected both sets of wires as displayed in speedyrev's pic above. and when i fired the system up, there is noticeably less than with the factory sub. didn't know that one set of wires was bass and the other was hp. thanks for that info. guess ill go home tonight and pull it out again and remove the high pass wires. im assuming that will fix the issue?
I had the same results. So I put the factory sub back in.
07-09-2013 02:21 PM
idostuff put in the WX65X last night to replace the factory sub (wasn't blown, just wanted a little more bass). connected both sets of wires as displayed in speedyrev's pic above. and when i fired the system up, there is noticeably less bass than with the factory sub. didn't know that one set of wires was bass and the other was hp. thanks for that info. guess ill go home tonight and pull it out again and remove the high pass wires. im assuming that will fix the issue?
05-09-2013 10:12 AM
Gillmo Everything in my Jeep is factory.
I ordered the Pyramid 6.5 sub
05-06-2013 02:25 PM
OhSixTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by woansleftpeg View Post

Ah, I was assuming that Gillmo was talking about factory wiring - the stock sub in a JK and also I believe a TJ is a DVC, so if he's replacing that with an aftermarket unit then the wiring pairs should already have a matched output.

OhSixTJ, did you resolve your sound quality issue?
Yes. I put the factory sub back in! Haha
05-06-2013 01:54 PM
woansleftpeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgreenal View Post
To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
Ah, I was assuming that Gillmo was talking about factory wiring - the stock sub in a JK and also I believe a TJ is a DVC, so if he's replacing that with an aftermarket unit then the wiring pairs should already have a matched output.

OhSixTJ, did you resolve your sound quality issue?
05-06-2013 01:51 PM
pilgreenal So you would have to bridge the coils. Positives go to coil 1 with a third wire connecting to the coil 2 positive . Negatives go to coil 2 with a third wire connecting to the coil 1 negative.

I would find out which one the bass though for better sound imho.
05-06-2013 01:45 PM
OhSixTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgreenal View Post
To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
But no one knows which wires are miss and which are lows. So they connect both
05-06-2013 01:37 PM
pilgreenal To get the correct performance from a dvc both coils need the same input. I'm just going off what was said earlier that one pair is bass and one is mid bass. So you shouldn't have a dvc with one coil pushing mid bass and the other pushing bass.

Either have both push only bass or both push bass and mid bass. They both need to be the same.
05-06-2013 01:24 PM
woansleftpeg OK, but it goes some way towards answering the question. If he has a DVC sub coming then he has to use all four wires to get full response; if it's SVC then he has the choice of running a single pair or bridging two channels, depending on the amp that's driving it.
05-06-2013 11:37 AM
pilgreenal No, just no. Don't even go there. I know what you are thinking but if it is dvc both inputs need the same source.
05-06-2013 11:06 AM
woansleftpeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gillmo View Post
OK my new sub is on its way. One question when it gets here.
Wiring?? Do I use all 4 wires, wire them together, or only use 2 wires????
Did you order a dual voice coil or single voice coil sub?
05-06-2013 10:07 AM
pilgreenal Use all 4 and if it is too distorted for your liking go down to 2.
05-06-2013 10:02 AM
Gillmo OK my new sub is on its way. One question when it gets here.
Wiring?? Do I use all 4 wires, wire them together, or only use 2 wires????
05-06-2013 09:05 AM
Gillmo I just order my new sub yesterday. Thanks for all the help. I will post what I think after I install it.
05-06-2013 08:00 AM
pilgreenal As an audiophile I wouldn't do the put mid bass to anything over 8" but it wouldn't be bad in a 10". If you have any other speakers bigger than 4.5"-5" I wouldn't put the mid bass to the sub.

But on the flip side if you are amped or are using an eq just set the low pass filter so the sub isn't over worked trying to reproduce the mids.
05-04-2013 04:45 PM
speedyrev
Quote:
Originally Posted by hgesell View Post
I have the same setup, Grey/Brown Red/Black. You can hook up either combo Grey/Brown or Red/Black. One is low bass one is high bass. Or you can hook up both and get full range. The Pyramid WX65X sounds great and will keep me from happy for awhile. Red and Brown are + Black and Grey are -

I'd like to hear from a car audio person on what the effect of hooking up both channels to one speaker.
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