|04-28-2011 03:45 PM|
|Rexacon||More mods = more weight, more weight = less HP, more HP = more you can Carry , but any way you put it always = more money spent, more mods and money spent = awesome trailered Offroad only Rigged Jeep, And awesome Rigged Jeep= most Likely Divorced lol|
|04-28-2011 11:43 AM|
To the original poster,
I think all Wranglers are great DDs, So if you choose a Sport,Sahara or Rubicon,I believe your going to be very very happy.
Don't buy a Grand cherokee, they are not as much fun.
Enjoy your new Jeep Wrangler
|04-28-2011 08:19 AM|
Now why didn't I think of that ??
|04-27-2011 10:46 PM|
Lite is might!!!
|04-27-2011 10:30 PM|
|Rexacon||4:10s are fine with 33s just don't be adding heavy bumpers and amor. I had 4:10s and 33s and it was great till I added a SRC front bumper and XRC 10k winch then I lost 2mpgs and hills started making me down shift out of OD. But spend $1,200 on 5:38 gears and u will have All the power u need on that baby lol :handsup|
|04-27-2011 10:20 PM|
|04-27-2011 10:40 AM|
|04-27-2011 09:02 AM|
|04-27-2011 09:00 AM|
|04-26-2011 11:13 PM|
I can understand the appeal of customizing your vehicle to your own taste, but in many cases I would imagine the aftermarket parts on these custom rigs do not function well together as a complete unit. Or it takes many, many mods and lots of money to get it to a point where the parts do work well together. And there goes the warranty, reliability, etc.
Anyway, to each his own. I appreciate all the Jeeps out there.
|04-26-2011 09:51 PM|
One other thing. The Rubi comes with a super low 4 to 1 reduction transfer case. For me, with my 5.13's, this would be way too low for most of my wheeling. If your a slow crawling, obstacle tackling type it may be fine for you. I do trails mainly. I like to keep it in 4 low. My top speed is 22 mph. Perfect for trails & it crawls plenty slow for the types of obstacles I do. Once in a blue moon I'd use the 4 to 1 if I had it.
I would not swap for a new Rubi transfer case if you gave it to me.
So, moral is, take the time to figure out what exactly you are going to do with this jeep, & what kinds of wheeling you will be doing. Once you start building you can get going in a different direction real fast.
I will also say this, open differentials suck so bad. I mean really bad. I think all jeeps should come standard with locking diffs. At least the rear. That is where the Rubi's really shine. I can't imagine flipping three switches & being locked/locked/ disconected.
If I inherited a Rubi I think I would just put a 2.5 Terraflex lift on it & stay with 33's. Then keep the rest stock. Once you go 35's or bigger I think the stock 4.10's get a bit tall.
Bla bla bla...................
|04-25-2011 10:15 PM|
IMHO - If you'd keep the Rubi stuff, get the Rubi. If you'd swap it out for other stuff (different locker, gears, tires, etc.) get the Sport.
Resale was mentioned and that's the key. Say the Rubi is 8k more off the lot and worth 5k more 5 years from now when you trade it in. Now say it takes 5k to bring a Sport up to Rubi level. So you pay 3k more for the Rubi up front. But when you go to trade it in, all the aftermarket stuff isn't going to make much of a difference on that Sport. Here's a hypo:
Rubi - 30k, no mods, trade in for 20k in 5 years = 10k lost.
Sport - 22k, 5k mods = 27k up front, trade in for 15k in 5 years = 12k lost.
Just an example but you get the idea. Basically the extra $ you pay for the stuff on the Rubi up front you get back a fairly high %. Not so for aftermarket add-ons. Play with KBB if you want to see what I mean.
All that changes if you're going to keep the thing for a long time. Or if you'd mod the rubi stuff anyway. That was just my best shot at an "average buyer" example.
PS: This is from a guy who has played the "cheapest off the lot" game before. For an average buyer, it doesn't work out in your favor over the long haul.
|04-25-2011 09:12 PM|
This debate was hashed out in one of the magazines last month. Basicaly, they said if you are NOT going to mod the heck out of it BUT still want a extremely capable rig, right off the showroom floor, go Rubicon.
If you ARE going to mod it, like 35's, or 37's, lower gears, (yes, lower than 4.10's)stronger axles etc... Then you are wasting you money going Rubi!!!
I have a plain old X with the rear locked & the front axle sleeved & gusseted. It goes amazing places & I saved a boatload of cash.
|04-25-2011 08:53 PM|
Speaking of Rubi's is this a good deal, a great deal, or a so-so deal? Thinking I am finally going. 2012's can suck it!
Also even though the photo doesn't show it, it would be the softtop.
|03-28-2011 11:56 AM|
I was in the same boat back in January and test drove X's, Sahara's & Rubi's at several dealers and liked them all. I was looking for a DD that I could use to haul the family around, never get stuck in sand or snow around here and wheel when I can get away. For me, time is a luxury that I do not have enough of, I'm eating lunch as I read & write on this so I don't have time to swap axles, gears, etc.. myself nor do I have time to interview shops, be without a vehicle, etc.. for however long all this takes. I get off work and go straight to scouts twice a week, weekend events, etc...
The Rubi works for me, down the road on another construction project, maybe I won't be working 50+ hours/wk and I'll have time to buy another Jeep and set it up and pass the Rubi to the wife or daughter. They both like it and I know it's a safe vehicle free of the quirks I'm used to having with aftermarket products.
This is what worked for me, good luck with whatever you decide and no matter which Wrangler you get, I'll wave at ya!
PS - I believe the resale will be better on a Rubi, mostly because when I considered getting a used Jeep, I saw almost no Rubi's and those I did see seemed way overpriced.
|03-28-2011 11:31 AM|
|vze2372e||and like I said earlier, I *get* the light offroading part - he also said he may do more down the road ... even 5 minutes off road can test every aspect of the vehicle and driver, whether they chose to be in the situation or not. So "light offroading" doesn't mean much to me in that explanation, as long as "offroad" is mentioned.|
|03-28-2011 11:30 AM|
Build the x how you want, then see if you can get the rubi down to that price! If not, then you have your answer. I got mine out the door for about what it would have cost me to get an x at sticker price the way I would have wanted it.
Sent from my iPhone using WF Access
|03-28-2011 11:29 AM|
ha ha ha ha ha yea nothing to see here folks, return to your homes - Officer Bar Brady
Seems like a lot of justification all I'm saying - buy what you want - everyones finances differ as do their uses. Being a daily driver doesnt mean I won't run into a situation where I need the full capability of my rig - that being said, I have run into that situation (and thank god for the winch).
Like I said, do what you want - but if all the upgrades needed to turn a sport into a rubicon (which it will never be, in much the same way dropping a V8 into a 6 cylinder Mustang will never make it a GT) are considered, not to mention your time, warranty coverage and costs are factored in, I just don't see the point of nickle and diming things.
Just an opinion
|03-28-2011 11:16 AM|
|rics1997||I don't see the Rubi envy at all in here. Too me it seems like the Rubi owners are the ones that all up about it. I think everyone here is proud of what they got and don't see envy in anyones statement. People are just giving their options as they see it and envy has nothing to do with it. The OP said it was a dd with very little offroad so I see most statement following that line.|
|03-28-2011 10:57 AM|
Gawd I thought I was seeing things but is this rubicon envy? sure I could buy a six cylinder mustang for less than a GT, and then swap in a V-8 but it will never be a GT. There is nothing wrong with any of these trim levels, but if you want it all done right the first time, just drop the money on a Rubicon and dicker on the price. DONE.
It's not that I ever planned on driving my Rubicon off road every day, it's actually my daily driver, but when I DO go offroad, I want it as capable as can be allowed and in a few instances when I wasn't expecting it, that methodology has paid off.
As for the rubicon sticker .. yea it's generally in the first comment most people make (ie nice rubicon) so yea, bragging rights are worth the price -
Buy what you want, but you know what they say about justification ... it's just like masturbation. In the end, it's all good because it's a family of people on the same page. Just my two cents on this loooong mind numbing thread
|03-28-2011 06:58 AM|
|swingtail82||the Rubi IS the most capable factory rig when it comes to rock crawling and there's no denying that! if you don't plan on crawling much I'd say grab an X because the overall drive ratio is better for general wheeling imho(and I own a Rubi).|
|03-28-2011 06:54 AM|
Why buy a Rubicon if half the crap that makes it a Rubicon is just going to be swapped out, and another not really used?
Gears and a locker. That's all you need to add to that Sport to make it a Rubicon (after lift and tires which you're going to do anyway)[/QUOTE]
to make a sport a Rubi will cost more than what just buying a Rubi outright would cost.....the Rubi has a different transfer case with a 4:1 ratio unlike the sport. I don't know what you consider "Real" lockers to be, but last time I checked my wheels turned in syncronized fashion when locked(that would mean that my lockers do the same thing as the aftermarket lockers). The Dana 30 is fine for light wheeling, but over time if you wheel hard with larger tires it WILL have bent tubes and C's unless reinforced properly. the Dana 44 will do the same, it will just take longer for the problems to show up. the gears in the rubi are 4.10. basically I'd say if you plan on crawling get the rubi as it's the best base to start from. If you don't plan on crawling stick with the sport. If you were to go buy an Atlas transfer case, gears, lockers, Dana 44 front axle(new), electronic sway disconnect, and pay for install it will cost more than what it would have if you'd just bought the rubi
|03-27-2011 08:54 PM|
|11Unlimited||Thanks for all of the advice everyone!|
|03-26-2011 07:58 PM|
|Drifty||I believe in the current JP issue I just read covers this very well. In short all the editors point towards getting an X instead of the Rubicon. The X being a better all rounder where as the Rubicon is really a more narrow in use and most of the Rubicon's upgrades will be replaced by future mods depending on how you will use your jeep.|
|03-26-2011 07:21 PM|
|03-26-2011 07:13 PM|
|03-26-2011 06:59 PM|
Get an X then spend around 1300 to regear while your at it throw some selectable lockers for about 2000 front and back.For that kind of money spent on lockers it would be way better than the Rubi lockers.
Then add lift and tires which you will do even if you buy a Rubi...so in the end you have a much better rig than a Rubi with the exception of the 4:1 transfer case and E disco.Personally i prefer a Currie anti rock over the Edisco.Of course i say all that even tho i own a Rubi TJ but i bought it used and paid less than blue book.
|03-26-2011 06:39 PM|
Also the Rubi has electronic disconnects which is very handy. And the Rubi maintains a higher resale value compared to the other two.
I may sound like I am a Rubi fan, this is not the case. I bought a sport myself. But then I plan to go prorocks becuase the D44 is not strong enough for me.
|03-26-2011 06:16 PM|
Glad I am not California anymore then lol
But really it depend on what the options are for each. A stock (few options) sport is less then $25K too. In 2008 you could buy a base Sport for $20K
|03-26-2011 06:12 PM|
Sorry, but here in calif. 2008 Wrangler Xs are listing at $7/8/9 Thousand LESS than stock 2008 Rubis ie: $18/19K Xs vs 28/29K for Rubis--
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