|12-26-2012 01:04 PM|
Well I don't drive it anymore. I drive 145 miles a day and got around 16 mpg with the Jeep.
I would look at getting calipers with a parking brake built into them. I feel that a t-case parking brake would hang down more than I would want it to. I decided on just going with the TSM caliper (New Lg GM Rear Calipers). I have the big caliper with 7" bolt spacing.
I followed your build, I need to get around to outboarding my rear shocks.
|12-25-2012 02:30 AM|
filling up every other day??? what MPG you get? I finished my build(for now). and I ended up building custom caliper mounts for the 9" to mount a K5 small caliper to it. I don't have an e-brake right now either I figer I'l get a drive line e-brake when I want one. I've been drive'n it around for a few weeks now and I've been getting 16.8ish MPG on 35x12.5, here is what mine looks likt now that its drivable and mostly done.
|07-17-2012 10:58 PM|
I have really been putting off buying anything for the Jeep the past few months since I got the new job. Since we will have no money after the baby is born we have been trying to get everything for the house we have been needing to get. Also started filling the nursery.
I am going to be buying a few hundred for the Jeep soon though. I still need DOM tubing, some hub bearings, TRE's. I do want to get some new long travel shocks and shock towers but that might be a bit much for now.
I am definitely past the half way point. SYE, CV driveshaft, t-case mount, rear axle, exhaust. I now need to get the front axle, driveshaft (probably going with a u-joint adapter to 1330) and OBA system(all parts bought except for air tank). I do need to still fix a problem with my t-case. It doesn't shift out of 2Hi, I believe I need to shave my shift rod even though the instructions said I didn't on my year. I have read that some still had to shave it down or maybe I left that spring out. The front is going to take just as long as the rear even though I have a much better idea of what I am doing. I am going with a 3 link+trackbar setup but will have to balance the placement of all that to get as much uptravel as I can with no binding. Also I am wanting to stretch the front a few inches.
There are a number of other things that need to get done on it. But that doesn't count for the axle swap to be done.
|07-14-2012 12:06 AM|
Thanks for the info, I'm going to stick with the drums on the 9" but I'l try some chevy truck brake lines for the front and rear. sounds like it would work for the front, since I'l be use'n chevy calipers up front. I'm not sure if i'm going to run an e-brake right away.
|07-13-2012 11:48 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||I like your build man Do you DD your wrangler or have another car, I don't think i saw. I agree with you about the save money but lose time aspect. Thats fine with people who love to work on stuff and get the satisfaction of doing everything themself. The big issue is having another vehicle. Anyways, you have been doing some cool stuff, I'll check in. How far are you along on the build until completion would you say?|
|07-13-2012 11:21 AM|
Oh i have done something semi recently. I welded on tabs to my tire carrier to mount my hi-lift jack on.
|07-13-2012 11:18 AM|
Thanks. I've been busy with a new job and the hours of commuting through DC. Not to mention getting ready for a baby in the house. The build has slowed down a lot.
I actually don't have a parking brake right now. Though I have all the parts to install 8.8 brakes on it, including custom Currie rotors with 5x5.5 bolt pattern. I need to get new axle bearings and take it to a shop to get the 8.8 backing plate on. As it goes on before the bearings and axle retainer. I am going to use ZJ parking brake cables which I heard would work. I got them at the house and they do match the 8.8 brakes and my stock e-brake hookup.
I am actually thinking about using a different caliper now. If you want the parts. I already have a caliper mount welded on my axle with a mount spacing of 7.05", which works with old 70's calipers. If I find an eldorado caliper with a built in e-brake that would save me alot of time as it is just bolt on and I would only have to fabricate a cable.
For the brake cables. I went with a chevy truck rear brake line from the frame to the axle. It is maybe 6" longer with the stock connections. Also you can use the brake hoses you have and drill out the caliper side to the correct diameter. That is what I did instead of trying to track down new hoses. My calipers took a 7/16"-20 banjo bolt, I used a step drill and it conveniently deburrs the hole after you get it to the right size.
|07-13-2012 08:44 AM|
What part number did you use to hook up the rear 9" ebrake to your TJ ebrake. Alos what hardware did you use to bot your EB axles to your stock brake lines? I'm doing this swap too & I'm stuck on the brakes.
Very nice build by the way!!!
|03-06-2012 04:02 PM|
|jameslee97206||Nice work man and congrats on the baby|
|03-06-2012 02:04 PM|
Finally getting a little more done. Got around to replacing the front lower control arm bushings. Found out that they are Rancho control arms. I feel practically no difference in driveability after the new bushings went in. Even though the old ones were real bad, the metal sleeves could move around in the bushing. My front vibration must be coming from something else. Oh well, I have all new front axle parts going in at some point.
I finally wired up my fan switch so that I can bypass the fan controller. Did this after the second controller died. I also picked up a hobby box from radio shack to place all the relays and fan controller. Anyone want a schematic? I had to use 2 relays since the switch I had was only a 3 position center off SPDT. I wanted the center position to be auto, up to be off and turn on a dash light, down to be manually on. The wire have been wrapped after the pic and I plan on putting silicone on the ends. I think water killed my last two fan controllers. Sadly this box takes up all the room for my second horn I installed. Will have to find a new spot for it.
I also mounted my air compressor. It was real easy. Now I just have to plumb all the lines...
Next up fix my damn window that keeps falling down on the highway in 38 degree weather. I haven't had the door panel on it in months. Sometime soon, move axle shock mount back down to allow more uptravel. I need to outboard the shocks.
Also got great news a few weeks ago. My wife is pregnant! Also means I better finish it in the next few months or it won't be getting done in at least a year.
|02-02-2012 03:06 PM|
Though, the way I did it is the way I first invisioned. I'm only missing two things... well three things in my driveline that I wanted. Full float 9" with lockouts, high pinion front, and a 3 speed transfercase(big money). Ok so I really want a diesel jeep too but who doesn't(4bt turbocharged).
I'm getting my triangulated 4 link rear and 3 link front with all rebuildable adjustable ends and heavy duty control arms for less than what the kits would cost. Granted it does take more than 10x the time to install. You will end up spending more than you think and run into tons more problems than bolt on parts. I think it will be worth it when I'm all done. All built by me, designed by me, and installed by me. No one can accuse my Jeep of being a bolt together bought Jeep.
|02-02-2012 02:43 PM|
Sometimes I wish I went with a kit. Like the teraflex long arm or the Rock Krawler kit. Though I do kinda wish I went with a bolt on longarm frame mount from teraflex. Would have taken out all the guess work for finding all the right angles. Even getting a rear 4 link frame mount from gen right would have been good to. But they want 250 for just frame mounts. I got all my rear suspention mounts for that amount. Another thing I should have probably done was get adjustable upper mounts, so that I would be able to dial in my anti-squat.
Teraflex longarm bracket. Just wanted the bracket not the arms. My arms are stronger than these at 2" OD and 1/4" thick. My uppers are the same strength as these. If doing a triangulated rear you'll probably have to cut the rear upper mounts off and reweld them at more of an angle.
Genright rear 4 link mount.
|01-14-2012 02:09 AM|
|06TJX||Great build! I have been looking on threads all over the place to figure out the best way to approach a build like this. I am at a loss to buy the RE 5.5" lift or just build my own with DOM and heim joints. Figured it would be cheaper doing it this way but the RE kit bolts right in and is a tried and true product. If you had the money would you buy the kit or build your own? Can't wait to see the front done, this will be a beast!|
|11-18-2011 11:57 AM|
Thanks, just waiting for my christmas bonus to start working on her again. Need to restore 4wd before any snow comes.
|11-18-2011 11:53 AM|
|KKhamesi||hey i have seen your jeep at NOVA and i love it! looks good man|
|10-27-2011 03:40 AM|
|TheDoc||Great work thanks for the excellent update.|
|10-25-2011 06:28 PM|
I gave it an alignment and now it is all good. Been driving it to work the past week. This will get me by till I save up to get the front axle all cleaned up and ready. Thing I still need to change:
1. Mount a muffler and get an exhaust pipe installed.
2. Figure out parking brakes. The brakes are actually better than I first thought, will stop me just fine at speed. Will test possibility of using F8.8 brakes.
3. Rear alignment with a machine. Lasers are better than the measuring stick.
4. The shock mounts were set to far outboard and I couldn't get a bolt through the mount so they are mounted on the inside of the mounts.
5. Totally forgot I still have the passenger door apart trying to fix the power window motor, need to get that back together.
6. Air plumbing for the ARB. The line is just hanging of the axle.
7. Find a 5th 15x8 black wheel with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern and 2" back spacing for the spare(may buy 3 as the other 2 I got are rusted up).
8. Repaint and mount spare tire carrier. Make high lift jack mount on it too.
9. Get long travel shocks and outboard.
(There is more but that is all I want to put in the list to look at )
|10-12-2011 12:36 PM|
|TheTJRod||A funny thing about my jeep right now is because I have a different bolt pattern from my front axle to my back I can only use what is available. I have 4 5x5.5 BP wheels in black steel d-window that I am using 2 on my rear. I traded my 4x4.5 BP black wheels and 33" tires for chrome wheels and 35" tires. So I have black wheels on the back and chrome ones on the front. Sadly I have no idea how long I will have to go like that. I might just get wheel adapters 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 so I can have the same wheels for now. Also I could reuse them when I get around to building a trailer, common 1k-3.5k trailer hubs are 5x4.5. With the adapters I could use all the same wheels and tires. Don't have a picture yet but will post one up when I get home.|
|10-12-2011 10:24 AM|
That JK was in the Spotsylvania Town Mall. 95 and route 3 (exit 130)
Yea, well I haven't been able to get much done. The front axle is on hold due to finances. My wife lost her job and could only get a part time job in retail with her bachelor's degree. Not to mention one of my cars was in an accident, and since that car was already in an accident years before now denying it collision coverage in this one. I had to fix it back up just to get us to work. I still have a rear quarter panel to replace that includes part of the door frame. I had to make a framing out of angle iron to mount the door lock mechanism to keep the door closed (functions perfect I might add), also had to replace that door (sadly all I could find is a darker gray than the rest of the car and manual everything).
The axles I bought were on a jeep in a storage building that caught fire. The heat only hit the front of the jeep. Luckily the jeep didn't have the vortec engine in it at the time, it was at a shop getting bored out. Anyway I don't trust any of the bearings on the spindle, the ball joints, seals, tie rods, and rotors, and lock outs(the selectors were plastic and one side completely melted off), and axle u-joints all have to be replaced. That is all in the ball park of 500 bucks, though it will almost be like a new axle then and I know the parts will last for years. I also need the tubing for the front control arms and track bar, which will be another $150. Then the air hose tubing, fittings. I am still somewhat undecided on what type of tubing to use but I do already have a pump, 5 gallon tank, all the switches and relays, air manifold, and a in cab gauge ready for the install. Just need the fittings and tube for connecting the axles.
I have all the mounts, frame and axle, that I need, the control arm and track bar ends, and a truss for the front. This will keep me busy till hopefully something comes along.
Now to where my Jeep is at the moment. Since the other car is not going to be passing an inspection any time soon till I replace the gaping hole near the rear door. I had to get my Jeep driveable. Luckily the d30 didn't sell that day though both my upgraded steering did. Also I cut one of my control arms in half to get it out be cause it was being a pain. I keep everything that I replace though and had my original steering. 20 bucks at rock auto got me a new upper control arm and replaced a seized caliper for another 20. My Jeep is on all four wheels right now, brakes installed and bleed waiting for the driveshaft to get back from it's trip to High Angle Drivelines in CA from getting it shortened. Also got around to installing the rear shocks and realized that I placed the mounts to far apart, I have them on the outside of the mount. That will be plenty to hold them on while I am just driving around town but I wouldn't want to go off road like it is.
Oh and still need to find a solution to my exhaust. I cant us the original muffler anymore as it won't fit with the long arms. I am trying to find a flange adapter that will fit to the one on the cat so I can just bolt up just a muffler to keep the cops from looking at me till I can get an exhaust shop to fill in the rest. I could cut the flange off my old exhaust but I like keeping stock things intact so I can resell them, or reinstall them if I have to.
|10-10-2011 11:58 PM|
|10-10-2011 11:49 PM|
|Ageless Stranger||I just ran across this thread. Very, very nice build up man! Any updates?|
|08-24-2011 11:53 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||This thing is gona be a monster|
|08-24-2011 11:38 PM|
|aTX427||that is a lot of work|
|08-16-2011 03:04 PM|
|TheTJRod||Oh I also removed my front axle and got the idea of using bumpstop extensions from looking at the ones on my front axle. So all I got to do is buy another pair of isolators to do the front. After today I am going to start working on the front. For the rest of the week I will be cutting off all the brackets and weld on the truss for the front axle. I still think I am going to get to a stand still with needing money for parts. I still need to freshen the front axle and I need a frame side track bar mount and all the metal tubing. Not to mention I don't have all the parts for plumbing the air system.|
|08-16-2011 02:55 PM|
Oops. I neglected to update again. I got all the stuff done that I planned to, other than finding the banjo bolts. Over the weekend I went out and bought two banjo bolts(a side note: the 3 places I went to didn't even know what I was talking about, I had to find it in their store and show them). I knew I would need 2 for the front so even if I found the originals I wouldn't be out money. And luck would have it that when I went looking for the copper washers that I found the bolts sitting there with them.
Ok so the rear isn't on it's own weight yet. Though it soon will be now. I was waiting to figure out a better way of keeping the coil springs centered on the mounts. All I had was a flat plate to set the spring on and a bolt in the center with a coil retainer(basically another flat plate). The last time I got the axle on it's own weight, I centered the springs when I put them in. Though as soon as I put some weight on it the spring slid around on the bolt. Kinda unnerving if I'm going to be driving around like that. I bought 2 coil isolators, they are from the rear upper mount, to help me limit any noise and metal to metal contact. I realized that I could use bumpstop extensions to get the spring centered. I also realized that we used thick plastic sheets at work to cutout products for military use. I grabbed some scrap of 1" thick heavy duty plastic and cut out two circles 2 1/2" diameter. They fit perfectly into the isolators and after a mock fit found they will work perfectly for what I want.
I have all the brake hardware and a comfortable way of keeping the springs in place. I'm now ready to install the axle for good.
|08-10-2011 12:12 PM|
Found a buyer for my d30, it will be gone on Friday.
Things to do today. Weld on the shock mount and brake tab, then paint it. Find those banjo bolts and hook up the brakes and bleed them some. Will have to wait for the paint to dry so true completion of the rear won't be till tomorrow.
For tomorrow, install shocks, finish anything on the brakes left over. Install wheels and remove jack stands for good on rear.
Still required for rear. Find if my driveshaft will fit. Get a proper alignment. Hook up air line for locker and vent line.
|08-10-2011 11:44 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||This is looking ridiculous, nice man!|
|08-10-2011 11:10 AM|
Well I did my best to cycle the suspension and to my great luck the coils will bottom out before the control arms do. Also set the shock mount at that point to get the greatest amount of travel out of it Anyone have a small scrap of 2.25"-2.75" OD pipe/tubing lying around to use to center the coils. Also looking for coil spring isolators to keep the metal on metal contact low. Posted my quest for a brake line and was given a good idea. To just drill out the lines I had to 7/16. Only thing I had in that size was my step drill bit so after drilling it out to the right size it conveniently turns into a deburring tool. Worked out great, now where did I put those banjo bolts?
Still a little bit of room left to move it back.
Shock is not connected to axle but is almost exactly where it will end up. Sadly I think that will be the limit of my down travel due to the shock, anyway the coil was about to come completely out of the top. Also I want to get a stiffer longer shock or maybe some RS9000's
|08-08-2011 07:00 PM|
Just hit a major milestone on saturday. I got the rear end on it's own weight and removed the jack stands. Though I am having tons of problems trying to find the right brake line to go from the hard lines to the caliper. Also still looking for a good way to get an e-brake as I need it to stay legal. I don't like how the coils sit in the lower bucket. It only has a bolt to hold it in place and seems to move around alot that I am sure will give me problems while offroad. I still need to add the shock mounts and the hard line brake mount tabs(though not really required).
Brake lines I need are 10" or shorter with a 7/16" banjo bolt hole and I am guessing the 3/8-24 line connection
|08-05-2011 03:42 PM|
Got the new calipers and turned in the super crusty old ones. Didn't get new brake lines for the calipers as it seemed like I couldn't find a part number for them. I cleaned them up though. Got a rear brake line that I don't remember what it came from but is 7" longer than stock, though it has a more of a Y block than a T block. Part #77315 Alt #BH2018
I slid the axle under and started connecting the control arms. Aparently either one or more of my mounts are off or one or more of my control arms are different lengths as I could get all but one connected. It got to dark to continue with bugs in my face I decided to stop till tomorrow. As long as all it takes is to adjust my control arms to fit then I'll have the jeep off the rear jackstands today.
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