|04-06-2013 11:00 AM|
|Scl||This is exactly how my pump on my 1999 looked. $30 for a new one, not rebuilt, at NAPA.|
|01-30-2013 11:34 AM|
|01-30-2013 08:06 AM|
|jeepsrgreat||Minus 31C last night and minus 18C this morning and jeep is warm ...life is getting better!|
|01-27-2013 11:06 PM|
|jeepsrgreat||New pump is in....no leaks...now to see if I have heat. Won't know till Tuesday night.|
|01-26-2013 11:12 PM|
|jeepsrgreat||Well...put it all together and did a complete system flush. Thought why keep flushing the heater core and have the rest of the junk in the system plugging off the core. Found that the pump was not as good as I thought. After flushing the pump seal was shot. Must have been enough junk in it to keep it from leaking. Off the the parts shop in the morning for a new pump. Hope it works....forecast is for -35C for Tuesday.|
|01-26-2013 01:09 PM|
|jeepsrgreat||Picked up flushing chemical. New thermostat. New cap. Going to put it all together and see what happens.|
|01-26-2013 08:06 AM|
|ohioviper||Take heater core hoses off where they mount to the engine and hook up a garden hose and flush it both ways for a long time and then do it again.Ive flushed sons 2000 3 times now and Im still getting junk out of it.|
|01-26-2013 12:53 AM|
|jeepsrgreat||Pulled the pump today....it looks like new inside. Going to put it back together tomorrow. Going to flush the core again while it's apart. I will get heat....I will win....thinking positive.|
|01-23-2013 09:47 PM|
Waiting for a warmer day
|01-20-2013 08:42 PM|
|ohioviper||Changing the water pump is an easy job.If you have a lot of miles just go ahead and do it right if you have the money .Change water pump ,thermostat ,all hoses and serpentine belt and idler and tension-er and the fan clutch.If your radiator is questionable now is also the time to replace it.|
|01-20-2013 05:47 PM|
|jeepsrgreat||I'll try this when I get a chance....I kinda hope these is no flow so the problem is solved.|
|01-20-2013 03:22 PM|
Looks like he just looked for flow out of the t-stat housing. I like the evevated hose because it requires a pump in good health to pass the test.
|01-20-2013 03:15 PM|
|Whitfimb||You can do what the op did. Drain and refill with water, then remove the heater hose from the water pump plug it (heater core side) Install another hose, Hold the hose up high - 18" above the radiator or so. Fire the jeep up. See what kind of flow you get. It should flow like a water hose. Only ru it quick as you should be pumping cooling water out of the open hose. The op got no flow out of the eleviated heater hose. The bad impeller would not overcome the head pressure (weight of the water in the evelated hose). I need to do the same test.|
|01-20-2013 11:34 AM|
|jeepsrgreat||I've have the low heat problem as well. I have done the flush. Checked the blend door. Heat blows warm, but never hot. At around minus 15C I have just about lost all heat, and yet I see others driving with soft tops. I have flushed and checked enough that I have given up on the problem and wear gloves and a toque. After seeing this, I'm thinking it may be my pump. Does any one know if there is a test I can do before I pull it? A pressure test of some sort? Not sure if it matters, I have a '98 4L with no ac. I have heard jeep heaters are directly linked to the bowels of hell, all I have is a warm summer breeze.|
|01-20-2013 06:32 AM|
When I was wrenching for a living the Jeep water pump with no impeller was seen on occasion. We attributed it to the new environmental friendly style coolant that turns acidic and and attacks the impeller metal.
Importance of the pH Value in Engine's Coolant / eutechinst.com
From the time the coolant is introduced into any type of engine it starts a gradual degradation process into corrosive acids. This degradation is a function of time, temperature and the types of metals used in the engine and components construction. Once the coolant turns acidic all engine metals start to dissolve. The results are leaking water pumps, heater cores and radiators.
With the increasing number of aluminum engines and components the corrosive process is accelerated since the coolant degrades much faster in contact with aluminum than in typical cast iron engines. During the preventive maintenance of any engine, in addition to the freezing point, the pH value of the cooling system should be checked.
|12-13-2012 02:08 PM|
|12-13-2012 11:58 AM|
I would supplement the heater core flushing process by adding a step of having a solvent sit in the core for a while and then flushing and backflushing. From what I've researched, the safe solvents for the core are a mixture or heated water and vinegar or a heated critic acid solution.
I've read that some people have used CLR with success but I think it is too strong and may cause damage. Others have used radiator flush or "minute" flush but I haven't seen any positive effective reviews of these types of solvents.
|12-13-2012 10:06 AM|
|12-08-2012 11:20 AM|
|12-08-2012 08:09 AM|
Did changing the water pump fix the no heat in the cab problem? My Jeep does the same thing and I am reasearching what options to look at for fixing it.
|12-07-2012 10:16 PM|
after seeing that i will be replacing mine just to know i have a new one.
Jeeps are amazing in their ability to run even thru a life of abuse.
|06-11-2011 09:57 AM|
Mine liked like that when I replaced it. Amazing that the jeep was still running at all, but mine never even overheated. I flushed heater core, and around block, and radiator. Replaced all hoses,heater included.
You'll be fine.
|06-11-2011 01:15 AM|
Update (if anyone is interested):
Finally got around to changing the water pump, and this is what I found:
Really surprised it wasn't overheating, although with the t-stat sitting right on top of the pump housing, I suppose it could move enough water to keep it (the temperature sensor) cool. The real question is what kind of damage may have been done in the engine itself where small passages like the heater core weren't allowing much flow. Anyone out there seen this before?
|04-20-2011 02:34 PM|
|04-20-2011 12:55 PM|
|04-20-2011 12:51 PM|
|04-20-2011 10:20 AM|
|04-20-2011 09:16 AM|
|99Wrangler4x4||Hey! I have a 99 TJ!|
|04-20-2011 09:07 AM|
|randy and teri||
its easier to set the thermostat into the recess and then put the housing down around it rather than try to keep the thermostat in the housing defying gravity.
i dont know anything about reverse flow water pumps but when checking a system with the cap off the rad, i havent had one push water out of the top prior to it heating up. normally it does nothing until the thermostat opens, and then you can see it circulating.
i would just replace the pump, mainly since the amount of time spent redoing the same little things is probably more time than it would have taken to do the water pump
the upside is once its done, you know what you have and that its correct and clean.
|04-20-2011 01:25 AM|
No luck on the thermostat
Spent four hours on it this evening, to no avail:
- disconnected the supply hose to the heater core, cranked engine and watched to see if water came out the t-stat housing; it did NOT flow out, even though I had previously pushed water out that opening by flushing with a garden hose into the supply side, through the core back to the block and out the top; this maked me suspect either the water pump is wonky or there is some sort of anomaly inside the t-stat housing
- disconnected return heater hose at pump, back-flushed the heater core using garden hose, then blew compressed air into it to agitate things without pressurizing it, then flushed again; through all of this didn't get much gunk out, but did see some particles (hey - it's got 186k miles on it). Then blew air, drained as much as possible from the siphoning effect, elevated the hoses and put CLR in the supply hose until the water started to trickle out the return hose; put maybe 2-3 cups worth of CLR in and let it sit for a couple hours while we did the other stuff (see below); flushed out the CLR with garden hose and got some more gunk, but nothing dramatic
- went ahead and removed t-stat housing to examine gasket and t-stat; all seemed in good condition, the thermostat actually looked like it had been replaced when the radiator was done just before we bought it
- replaced t-stat, had a heckuva time getting the thing to stay put while we mounted the housing; first time it slipped, didn't get a good seal and leaked water before even putting pressure on it; redid that, got it to hold under pressure, and engine temp holds right where it's supposed to, but still no heat on the heater hoses
Next step is (unfortunately) the water pump. When I was running it after we had put everything back together, and it was heating up, the level in the radiator kept overflowing until the thermostat opened, at which point it sucked the water level down and I had to replace everything that had come out. Since I'm working on the theory that the pump is turning the wrong direction, would it be possible that it's trying to move water up through the radiator and over to the block through the top radiator hose? I cannot see it being able to do that, but I have to ask because it's been so long since I did a radiator flush that I've forgotten how much swell there is due to the water heating up in the block.
Appreciate all the suggestions.... keep 'em coming!
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