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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-03-2011 12:27 PM
patshea098 good call. ill prob do that.
05-03-2011 07:31 AM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by patshea098
so ill prob sell for 2500 to move it quick

or 3000 and best offer or something
I would say 25 is a fair price and it's nothing huge if ppl are looking specifically for that. That's prolly 6k new? I'd say set your bottom dollar at 2k list it as 3k so you got a little room to play with
05-02-2011 11:38 PM
patshea098 so ill prob sell for 2500 to move it quick

or 3000 and best offer or something
05-02-2011 10:53 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by patshea098
how much do yall think i could sell a 4.0L a 6-speed manual NSG370 tranny, and NV241OR transfer case with only 28K miles on them?
If my motor blew and had the cash, I'd give 3
05-02-2011 08:50 PM
patshea098 how much do yall think i could sell a 4.0L a 6-speed manual NSG370 tranny, and NV241OR transfer case with only 28K miles on them?
05-02-2011 06:08 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616

The 8.8 is a tuff axle to beat. I know a guy running a 1200 hp 8 second turbo mustang with a built 8.8 . 36" tires with a super 88 kit and you won't see any problems. The 44 is weak at the shaft ears and ball joints but with good shafts should be fine up to a 37" tire. I totally agree about the 14 bolt they are a big ground clearance killing turd and the ford 10.25 is by far the better choice! But if you were going to spend the dough to narrow one you may as well just build a 35 spline 9" which will give you plenty of strength and killer ground clearance!
We moved over to "axle choice" started by me if you wanna pitch n over there. Thank you for the info tho
05-02-2011 05:58 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by rda616

The 8.8 is a tuff axle to beat. I know a guy running a 1200 hp 8 second turbo mustang with a built 8.8 . 36" tires with a super 88 kit and you won't see any problems. The 44 is weak at the shaft ears and ball joints but with good shafts should be fine up to a 37" tire. I totally agree about the 14 bolt they are a big ground clearance killing turd and the ford 10.25 is by far the better choice! But if you were going to spend the dough to narrow one you may as well just build a 35 spline 9" which will give you plenty of strength and killer ground clearance!
We moved over to "axle choice" started by me if you wanna pitch n over there. Thank you for the info tho
05-02-2011 05:42 PM
rda616
Quote:
Originally Posted by 97wrangler-242 View Post
36s at most. Might look in to a stroker or super charger n the future. Think a ford 8.8 and dynatrack 44 would handle the thrashing?
The 8.8 is a tuff axle to beat. I know a guy running a 1200 hp 8 second turbo mustang with a built 8.8 . 36" tires with a super 88 kit and you won't see any problems. The 44 is weak at the shaft ears and ball joints but with good shafts should be fine up to a 37" tire. I totally agree about the 14 bolt they are a big ground clearance killing turd and the ford 10.25 is by far the better choice! But if you were going to spend the dough to narrow one you may as well just build a 35 spline 9" which will give you plenty of strength and killer ground clearance!
05-02-2011 05:33 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by patshea098
Thread Hijackers!!!! hahaha just playing

Well i plan on shaving the pumpkin on the 14 bolt eventually. But with 40's....i have plenty of clearance.
Sorry!!! Atleast I moved it! Lol
05-02-2011 05:31 PM
patshea098 Thread Hijackers!!!! hahaha just playing

Well i plan on shaving the pumpkin on the 14 bolt eventually. But with 40's....i have plenty of clearance.
05-02-2011 03:42 PM
Ibuildembig Sure Im there
05-02-2011 03:32 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
8.8's are pretty tough, Id try one if I were in your shoes. Im no fan of high dollar axle companies products that are nothing more than warmed over stock stuff. Honestly for the price of what they want for a 44, you can buy a 60 and go through it and be way better off....and if you did that, why not go for the 10.25 rear since its the same price at a pick n pull.
I just don't know what to do getting them cut down and having axle shafts made for the length i chose. This is why I can't decide on an axle set up lol. I want to b able to beat on them with out breaking since it's my DD but I can't afford to dump 8k n to axles. I was hoping to do front and rear for under 2500. Doubt that will happen. I can't weld and don't know much about customizing and axle as far as width. I guess I'll ask your final opinion on what I should do? I have multiple thread on axle tech if you wanna move this there?
05-02-2011 03:09 PM
Ibuildembig 8.8's are pretty tough, Id try one if I were in your shoes. Im no fan of high dollar axle companies products that are nothing more than warmed over stock stuff. Honestly for the price of what they want for a 44, you can buy a 60 and go through it and be way better off....and if you did that, why not go for the 10.25 rear since its the same price at a pick n pull.
05-02-2011 03:06 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
It all depends on what you wanna do with um and how much power you have.
36s at most. Might look in to a stroker or super charger n the future. Think a ford 8.8 and dynatrack 44 would handle the thrashing?
05-02-2011 02:44 PM
Ibuildembig It all depends on what you wanna do with um and how much power you have.
05-02-2011 02:41 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
A 60 rear is a piece of scrap iron....Id rather have a 9 inch

The biggest thing you have to keep in mind is a 60 is not a 60. There are more variations of that axle than any other. Very very very few of them are worth having in stock form. If you dont know beyond the shadow of doubt what your looking at, your better off buying a 70, 10.25, or 14bolt
Yea, I havnt looked in to the 60s much. I was considering a ford 8.8 rear and hp30 till I was told 36s would rip those apart. I'm so lost on choosing axles.... Ugh
05-02-2011 02:26 PM
Ibuildembig A 60 rear is a piece of scrap iron....Id rather have a 9 inch

The biggest thing you have to keep in mind is a 60 is not a 60. There are more variations of that axle than any other. Very very very few of them are worth having in stock form. If you dont know beyond the shadow of doubt what your looking at, your better off buying a 70, 10.25, or 14bolt
05-02-2011 02:16 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
Yeah its a Sterling made rearend....found in 85-97 Ford F250-350s.
Still stronger than a 60?
05-02-2011 02:14 PM
Ibuildembig Yeah its a Sterling made rearend....found in 85-97 Ford F250-350s.
05-02-2011 02:13 PM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig
14bolts are alot tougher than a 60 rear (60 fronts are alot different)...biggest problem with them is the drum brakes, leaky wheel seal problems, and they are shaped like a one bottom plow and will hang you up on everything. A 10.25 is a better choice.
What are 10.25s in? That's ring gear dia., right?
05-02-2011 02:11 PM
Ibuildembig 14bolts are alot tougher than a 60 rear (60 fronts are alot different)...biggest problem with them is the drum brakes, leaky wheel seal problems, and they are shaped like a one bottom plow and will hang you up on everything. A 10.25 is a better choice.
05-02-2011 02:09 PM
97wrangler-242 What's the strength of a 14 bolt compared to the Dana 44 and 60? Do you like your set up and how well is it handling 40"s?
05-02-2011 02:08 PM
patshea098 comp cut rear fenders, not front frenders and no they are uncut
05-02-2011 02:02 PM
Nailhead432 U can fit 40's on a 5.5" lift? U must be running uncut axles on it.
05-02-2011 01:58 PM
patshea098 Rustys Offroad 5.5" long arm
05-02-2011 12:35 PM
Nailhead432 What kinda suspension set up do u have? Can u send picks?
05-02-2011 12:30 PM
Nailhead432 I'll do it for u. If u can source the hard parts (engine, trans, t-case), I'll get the rest for u.
05-02-2011 09:03 AM
Ibuildembig Eeeek did someone say the H word
05-02-2011 05:37 AM
rda616 I got my engine at a you pull it type jy for $100.00 and the transmission as well. Fabricated my own transmission mount, got my radiator off ebay for $230.00, motor mounts from advance adapters and spliced my own harness. Because it was all chrysler my gages all worked. I didn't have a skim key to worry about with the ram pcm, so no reflashing to pay for. The pedal assembly and factort auto shifter work with the dodge parts . It's cheaper because you can use so many factory parts off your jeep and the donor. Other parts you need you can find at the jy off any 93-98 v8 zj.
05-01-2011 10:51 PM
patshea098 Ill prob just hunt for them seperate (feel free to help haha)

so again for about 7-8K, i can get all the parts needed and you to install it?
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