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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-08-2011 06:50 PM
mopardan97 Just some advice from what i have. My setup is a 8.8 from a explorer that already had 4.10 gears in it with an aussie locker. you will have to buy the mounting brackets for the axle and have them welded on the axle and it is some work but it is alot cheaper than some of the ready to run axles plus if you get it locally you can save on shipping as well. for the front axle of mine i got a hp d30 from a xj that had 4.10s to start with and that just bolted right in. so far it seems to be a good fairly inexpensive setup. just something to think about because i believe that was both axles with a rear locker(no front yet) for just over 1k i believe. from there you can add the 600 super88kit and have a decent non c-clipped rear end. btw my jeep is 6cyl 5speed just my.02
05-08-2011 12:21 PM
rubicon05
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTWarrior66 View Post
I wouldnt worry about the fenders. I'm in MD and all you need those for is inspection, just swap the stock tires back on for a day. If you ever get pulled over ( I'm in Montgomery County so this is rare) they'll issue you a fix it ticket and just swap the stock tires back on and you're set.
My excuse for this used to be."i just put these tires on and ordered the flares they will be in tommorow".
05-08-2011 09:39 AM
stuck05 high 44 up front, 8.8 out back 4.56/4.88 gears and put the rest away until you can afford to go 4 link front and rear (Y)
05-07-2011 09:40 AM
Hendog OK everyone. I'm getting real close to pulling the trigger.

I'm up in the air about getting a Trutrac for the front. Does anyone have one (front)? Is it worth it?
05-06-2011 05:02 PM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by AOR View Post
I would not build the M35. If you lock it and run 35s you will break something or bend the housing. Then have to do it again. The 8.8 is a solid option. The G2 axle is built with set 10 factory bearings and their brand of gears. I don't see why you would want to keep the rear drums. You can upgrade to rear discs for that unit for $552.32 (given the G2 unit is actually going to allow the original D35 drum brakes).

Then I would do a matching R&P for the front with alloy shafts. You will need a new carrier in the front if you don't go to a locker. Do the locker and only pay set up costs once. Don't forget the new seals, unit bearings, and ball joints. I would do an upgrade to your steering; see here and the body/motor lift to stay away from the SYE and CV issue.

so far you are at a tick above $2800. Then get you choice of f/r bumpers/tire carrier and your front gears, TruTrac etc (about $2035 for locker/gears/misc total rebuild).

Good Luck

Namaste,

Allen

Thanks for all the helpful info. I'm not sure I follow you on the G2 though. Do you or don't you recommend it?
05-06-2011 04:35 PM
POS YJ You need to be more careful on snowy roads, yes. A lot of times (75%), I have better luck with open diffs in the snow, and use the lockers when I get stuck just to get backed out, then I go open again. Two weeks ago I needed both lockers in 1st gear and low range (4:1) to barely idle through the snow. Any amount of throttle would get you stuck. Plenty of people do just fine locked front and rear in the snow, and I have had people argue that 4 tires spinning is always better than 2, as I pulled them out and drove around them open. There are a lot of variables. I have an idea as to why being open works better in snow sometimes, but it would be hard to put into words without going on a lot longer than I already have. It should, in no way, deter you from putting lockers in your Jeep. You just have to learn how to drive with them, if that makes any sense?
05-06-2011 04:28 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog
Does a Detroit Locker hurt snow performance?
Being locked os tricky in snow.
LSD or selectable lockers are best for snow.
05-06-2011 04:27 PM
AOR I would not build the M35. If you lock it and run 35s you will break something or bend the housing. Then have to do it again. The 8.8 is a solid option. The G2 axle is built with set 10 factory bearings and their brand of gears. I don't see why you would want to keep the rear drums. You can upgrade to rear discs for that unit for $552.32 (given the G2 unit is actually going to allow the original D35 drum brakes).

Then I would do a matching R&P for the front with alloy shafts. You will need a new carrier in the front if you don't go to a locker. Do the locker and only pay set up costs once. Don't forget the new seals, unit bearings, and ball joints. I would do an upgrade to your steering; see here and the body/motor lift to stay away from the SYE and CV issue.

so far you are at a tick above $2800. Then get you choice of f/r bumpers/tire carrier and your front gears, TruTrac etc (about $2035 for locker/gears/misc total rebuild).

Good Luck

Namaste,

Allen
05-06-2011 04:24 PM
Hendog Does a Detroit Locker hurt snow performance?
05-06-2011 03:37 PM
POS YJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
OK master of all that is offroad, lets assume that we dont all have an unlimited budget like you. Do you have some constructive advice as to what I should do?

I have asked about this idea for the rear sense I have to regear and get a locker/limited slip anyway:
G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

I have also asked about the Super 35 kit but it doesn't come with gears.

I would value your advice but you assuming that I'm "splashing in a couple mud holes" because I don't have the money to build a dedicated rock crawler isn't very helpful.
Calm down. I think you may have taken that the wrong way. My "dedicated" rock crawler is also my "dedicated"daily driver. Unemployment is far from an unlimited budget! I was just trying to find out how hard you are going to beat on your rig. Some peoples idea of 4 wheeling might be a lot more extreme, or a lot less extreme than mine. I would love to help you out, just wanted a little more info so you don't piss money away on stuff you won't be happy with. Since you mentioned rockcrawling, I will give you this just off the top of my head, I haven't run the prices.
8.8 rear with 4.88's and Detroit or other non selectable locker, no Tru-Trac.
Keep the 30 up front, 4.88's with a Detroit and Cro-Moly shafts.
4:1 kit for the transfer case.
Now wheel the piss out of it!!
One way I saved a buttload of money was to have a friend set up the gears. I know not everyone knows a mechanic capable of this, but ask around and you will probably find a laid off mechanic that will set the gears for under $200 each. I paid $100 for my 9", and $150(?) for the 44 front. I am not at all a Jeep guru, but I have learned the hard way ($$$$$) a few times and don't want to see someone spend 5k on something and be unhappy or broken on the trail.
05-06-2011 03:37 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog

OK master of all that is offroad, lets assume that we dont all have an unlimited budget like you. Do you have some constructive advice as to what I should do?

I have asked about this idea for the rear sense I have to regear and get a locker/limited slip anyway:
G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

I have also asked about the Super 35 kit but it doesn't come with gears.

I would value your advice but you assuming that I'm "splashing in a couple mud holes" because I don't have the money to build a dedicated rock crawler isn't very helpful.
Put the quadrajunk catalog down and call Gerald at Savvy Offroad. He will get you great pricing on everything you need from Superior Axle. I regeared front and rear, all new rotors, pads, u joints, master install kits, Detroit locker in rear, Aussie in front, Super 35 kit for $2600 all installed. I did most of the work myself. Nephew regeared for $300/axle.

The D44 in the link is ok but for that money get an 8.8 from ECGS.
05-06-2011 03:14 PM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by POS YJ View Post
Go anywhere trail rig? Are you running fire roads and splashing in a couple mud holes, or are you going to be going slow over big rocks with tires off of the ground undercut ledges. If it was my go anywhere trail rig, the 6k would be in the front axle alone probably, and the 30, 35, or even 8.8 would not even be a consideration. Give us a little more idea of what and where you plan on wheeling.

OK master of all that is offroad, lets assume that we dont all have an unlimited budget like you. Do you have some constructive advice as to what I should do?

I have asked about this idea for the rear sense I have to regear and get a locker/limited slip anyway:
G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

I have also asked about the Super 35 kit but it doesn't come with gears.

I would value your advice but you assuming that I'm "splashing in a couple mud holes" because I don't have the money to build a dedicated rock crawler isn't very helpful.
05-06-2011 03:09 PM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
I would not recommend running 33" or larger tires on a locked STOCK D35. S35 kit at a minimum or you will break an axle.
I keep hearing this.



Then wouldn't my idea of getting

G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec

solve the problem?
05-06-2011 03:08 PM
POS YJ Go anywhere trail rig? Are you running fire roads and splashing in a couple mud holes, or are you going to be going slow over big rocks with tires off of the ground undercut ledges. If it was my go anywhere trail rig, the 6k would be in the front axle alone probably, and the 30, 35, or even 8.8 would not even be a consideration. Give us a little more idea of what and where you plan on wheeling.
05-06-2011 03:07 PM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
I wouldn't spend that kind of money on that set-up. I would by a 8.8 from ECGS.

If you buy a S35 kit you don't have to get an air locker.

My 97 TJ is not a DD. It is a trail rig. I went with the S35 and Detroit Locker in rear and Aussie Locker in front. Drives fine on road and is a beast offroad.
Why? I understand that you prefer the 8.8 but it looks like the only way to get my gears and my locker built in. Right?
05-06-2011 02:52 PM
nick50471 I would not recommend running 33" or larger tires on a locked STOCK D35. S35 kit at a minimum or you will break an axle.
05-06-2011 02:47 PM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
Am I going to need a SYE and a CV shaft?

Is it possible to get by without this?




As of right now, I'm thinking about leaving the rear end alone and regearing w/ 4.56's front and rear and installing a Trutrac in the rear.

Thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
D35 locked with 33's or bigger is a disaster waiting to happen.



So shouldn't I stick with my plan above?
05-06-2011 02:23 PM
nick50471 D35 locked with 33's or bigger is a disaster waiting to happen.
05-06-2011 02:22 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog
Am I going to need a SYE and a CV shaft?

Is it possible to get by without this?

As of right now, I'm thinking about leaving the rear end alone and regearing w/ 4.56's front and rear and installing a Trutrac in the rear.

Thoughts?
You normally don’t need SYE/CV if lift is less than 3".
TT adds clearance and counts as lift.
So I have 2.5" OME lift and will be installing a UCF xcase skid on Sunday. The TT will add another 2" at least so I will also be adding a SYE/CV.
05-06-2011 02:18 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog

So the Detroit locker you are talking about is not a selectable locker? Is it an auto locker? Is it a real locker or a limited slip?
Yes real locker. Absolutely bullet proof.
05-06-2011 01:42 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog
Am I going to need a SYE and a CV shaft?

Is it possible to get by without this?

As of right now, I'm thinking about leaving the rear end alone and regearing w/ 4.56's front and rear and installing a Trutrac in the rear.

Thoughts?
U can use spacers on ur trans case skid. I suggest a tuck + sye and ds, just get it over with.
05-06-2011 01:23 PM
Hendog Am I going to need a SYE and a CV shaft?

Is it possible to get by without this?




As of right now, I'm thinking about leaving the rear end alone and regearing w/ 4.56's front and rear and installing a Trutrac in the rear.

Thoughts?
05-06-2011 11:11 AM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrenalineJunky45 View Post
hey man, im a bit further ahead a you in all this but when it comes to axles, im in the same boat. i too am looking at an hp30 front and an 8.8 in the rear. check out eastcoastgearsupply.com. as for gears i plane on 37's max, id go with 4.88's and i wanna run an ox locker rear with an arb air locker up front, these are selectable as you wont always need them and when off road, there wont be anywhere you cant go
As I said, selectable lockers are just too much $. Am I looking at the wrong ones?
05-06-2011 11:10 AM
Hendog
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
I wouldn't spend that kind of money on that set-up. I would by a 8.8 from ECGS.

If you buy a S35 kit you don't have to get an air locker.

My 97 TJ is not a DD. It is a trail rig. I went with the S35 and Detroit Locker in rear and Aussie Locker in front. Drives fine on road and is a beast offroad.
So the Detroit locker you are talking about is not a selectable locker? Is it an auto locker? Is it a real locker or a limited slip?
05-06-2011 03:06 AM
jrussblues I would wanna take care of skids, tt, sye, ds, lockers, discos, and regearing.
05-06-2011 01:55 AM
PTWarrior66 I wouldnt worry about the fenders. I'm in MD and all you need those for is inspection, just swap the stock tires back on for a day. If you ever get pulled over ( I'm in Montgomery County so this is rare) they'll issue you a fix it ticket and just swap the stock tires back on and you're set.
05-05-2011 10:00 PM
AdrenalineJunky45 hey man, im a bit further ahead a you in all this but when it comes to axles, im in the same boat. i too am looking at an hp30 front and an 8.8 in the rear. check out eastcoastgearsupply.com. as for gears i plane on 37's max, id go with 4.88's and i wanna run an ox locker rear with an arb air locker up front, these are selectable as you wont always need them and when off road, there wont be anywhere you cant go
05-05-2011 09:54 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
Ok, once I add all this up I keep thinking it would make more sense to just get this, no?

G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec



And I can't justify an air locker. These things are like $1,500 each installed!!!

I wouldn't spend that kind of money on that set-up. I would by a 8.8 from ECGS.

If you buy a S35 kit you don't have to get an air locker.

My 97 TJ is not a DD. It is a trail rig. I went with the S35 and Detroit Locker in rear and Aussie Locker in front. Drives fine on road and is a beast offroad.
05-05-2011 09:48 PM
Hendog Ok, once I add all this up I keep thinking it would make more sense to just get this, no?

G2 Axle & Gear D44TJTT373 - G2 Axle & Gear Rear 30 Spline Dana 44 Assembly with Detroit Truetrac for 97-06 Jeep® Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec



And I can't justify an air locker. These things are like $1,500 each installed!!!
05-05-2011 09:32 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hendog View Post
Ok, I'm not seeing where it comes with gears.

Where do I buy this kit? What can I expect as far as instalation hours that my tech will be charging for?
For a Super 35 make absolutely sure you only buy on built by Superior Axle. Many fakes that don't hold up.

Buy your S35 kit from Gerald at Savvy Offroad. Best prices anywhere. Buy all the gears axles master install kits everything from him. You will then only need a carrier for the front. I got mine from a junkyard.

The 8.8 option is also sound advice. East Coast Gear Supply would have gotten my business had I known of them sooner. More expensive than the S35 kit but a much stronger set up.
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