|11-06-2012 06:10 AM|
I am replacing my oil pan due to putting a screwdriver through it while removing rust.
I have removed the exhaust, but the bolts and the factory nut holders are pretty rusty too. Any good spot to get them besides the dealer?
Good luck with yours!
|11-05-2012 10:39 PM|
RMS-Were in it to win it!!!!
Hey-I am also doing the RMS in my garage,so your not alone,just be patient,and be organized in your layout of bolts,(Cardboard Helps) To keep track of them all....Good Luck, PS-Get the ONE piece FelPro gasket!!
|05-08-2011 03:39 PM|
I had the same problem with my jeep and it was coming from the same spot. The leak was the valve cover gasket and the oil pan gasket. Both were very easy to change. You could have a RMS leaking to. I'm a mechanic I did mine stages because we can only work on personal cars on Saturdays at the where I work. When I did the oil pan I change the oil pump because it was going bad.
To drop the oil pan.
1: Spray the bolts and nuts on the exhaust flange down the night before you do the work.
2: Remove the exhaust pipe.
3: disconnect the ground on the battery.
4: Remove starter.
5: Remove trans cover plate.
6: Now remove the oil pan bolts, and it will drop down out of the way. Drain the oil first.
I didn't replace the RMS it was not my leak. You will see the RMS will be a little more work to install. I had a lift and air tools ,cuts the time in half. Good luck.
|05-08-2011 03:10 PM|
A dealer in colorado qouted 600. Need a flex socket for those exhaust bolts, that was the most time consuming part of the whole deal, removing and installing.
I want Jerry's mechanic!
|05-08-2011 02:46 PM|
I just talked to my cousin and I will start collecting my needed parts and supplies so when I am ready for my next oil change we can do this. We will start early on a Saturday in case we need to roll into a Sunday. I am going to start spraying exhaust, 02S, and oil pan bolts now though.
By the way: What does IIRC mean?
|05-08-2011 02:05 PM|
|05-08-2011 01:28 PM|
|05-08-2011 01:26 PM|
After reading the first write up that works, I too think it is my RMS but at least I will be able to scrape my Oil Pan, clean my filter pick up, and anything else in there.
I am thinking about tackling this with my cousin who will tell me up front if we can do it in his driveway.
|05-08-2011 01:25 PM|
|05-08-2011 01:18 PM|
Thank you for those links I will start reading them.
Here is a link to an album I made for you guys. It is on my Facebook which is public so everyone in the world should be able to see these even if you are not on facebook.
|05-08-2011 01:16 PM|
|05-08-2011 01:12 PM|
Check moparonlineparts.com or other mopar online sites, get up to 31% off list. the mopar seal does not come with the shoehorn piece but those are easily fabricated.
That said, here are some great rear main seal write ups so you know what's going on even if you pay someone for it. If you get as far as the pan off you are 80% of the way there. 15 dollar rear main seal, 3-500 in labor
Must haves: factory service manual and a torque wrench.
Note our 05 LJ the top and bottom seal were identical, they do not have the wings that some of these show.
|05-08-2011 01:08 PM|
|Austen||I have good photos I am about to post...|
|05-08-2011 01:07 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||Oh sheesh man make up your mind where the leak is coming from. Ok, now it sounds once again like it is the RMS that is leaking as I originally suggested it was.|
|05-08-2011 12:57 PM|
Just saw this post, It is the rear above the drain plug
|05-08-2011 12:56 PM|
I just came out from under the Wranglenater:
The leak is coming from theREAR of the Oil Pan above the end of the Drain Plug where it meets the next thing in line maybe the transmission or the transfer case, one or the other but that is where it is leaking Deff above the drain plug. Now I see what a monster this oil pan is to remove.
Now what do you guys say about what is leaking? I am going to take my digital camera down there instead of just my iPhone.
|05-08-2011 12:56 PM|
|Redrider94||It would seen to me if the leak is at the (front) of the pan like he is saying then it would be oil pan gasket, but of leaking in rear ( by transmission ) then it could be RMS or oil pan I think we need to know if it is in the front or rear of the engine.|
|05-08-2011 12:35 PM|
Nailhead: I just read your response now. If I do the OPG I will take your advice and get it from Jeep unless it so over priced. I will also buy a tube of their RTV as well. I do not think I will do my own RMS I would have to call on a guy to do that. But you gave me great info!
|05-08-2011 12:30 PM|
|05-08-2011 12:29 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||If it were me, if I am understanding everything you have said and that it's the front, not the rear, of your pan that is really leaking, I'd just go for the OPG. That's the easiest and fastest to change when compared to the RMS anyway.|
|05-08-2011 12:27 PM|
|05-08-2011 12:25 PM|
So time for a team huddle guys:
Jerry you are the Quarterback, should I buy the oil pan gasket for $20 and change it myself to the obsessive compulsive standard that I operate by to see if it works?
If it is the RMS I would have to change the OPG again.
What should I do?
|05-08-2011 12:21 PM|
|Nailhead432||From what u described, I'm going to agree with the oil pan leaking. Do not but a gasket at pep boys unless u want to do it again. Get one from the dealership and a small tube of grey rtv. OE oil pan gaskets are the only ones I have ever gotten to seal properly. In order to replace ur rear main, u will have to pull the rear main bearing cap off. It's a 2 piece lip seal and can be kinda tricky to replace the upper half (part in the block) if u haven't done one b4. Once again, get one from the dealership. I wouldn't replace an oil pan gasket without replacing the rear main seal as well unless I knew without a shadow of a doubt the it wasn't leaking. Installing the rear seal incorrectly can cause it to start pouring. If u still want to do this yourself, let me know and I'll share some secrets with u.|
|05-08-2011 12:18 PM|
|Scoob||There is a front main seal as well. But you need to take the front of the engine apart to get to it. Based on what you are saying about orange rtv. It sounds like somebody has already been there and maybe changed out the timing chain and pinched the front main seal while putting it back together.|
|05-08-2011 12:18 PM|
|05-08-2011 12:17 PM|
|Wallygator||He might mean one peice or two piece. Not sure if its an option on yours. But you only have 1 rear main seal.|
|05-08-2011 12:14 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||You just need a single two-piece RMS. Sounds like the kid at Pep Boys is trying to double his sales volume.|
|05-08-2011 12:08 PM|
|Austen||The price for the RMS from Pepboys is: $48.99 (two piece rubber) But now the kid is asking me if I need one or two.|
|05-08-2011 12:03 PM|
If you simply spray it with Gunk or other engine degreaser first and then just rinse it off, I wouldn't worry about water finding its way inside. Afterall, you drive through puddles and wet roads after rain wihtout worry.
Based on your belief the leak is at the front of the pan and the sloppy use of orange RTV, that is sounding more like the oil pan and not rear main seal... like the previous owner had the pan off for some reason and didn't seal it properly afterwards.
|05-08-2011 12:02 PM|
Pull the pan bolts and a few tugs later you will have the pan on the ground. Replace gasket and seal. Re-install and torque everything.
I can see changing the pan gasket there, but how do you change the rear main seal in that step?
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