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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-06-2012 10:34 PM
Blacksurt No inspection here.....NM
09-04-2012 07:15 PM
AughtThree OK, I have to know because it's driving me crazy!

I'm currently in the process of a similar project... a 350 into my '98 TJ. Please tell me... how did you pass inspection?!

...or did you?
05-24-2012 06:11 PM
Blacksurt
Quote:
Originally Posted by LJIndiana View Post
When you used the fuel regulator to get the psi down did you have to run a return line to the tank?

The previous owner on my Jeep took the own fuel pump out. Fabricated a steel plate and mounted an aftermarket sending unit. Also a pipe/tube to feed an external pump mounted on the edge of the skid plate.

I think my pump has failed and am thinking about going back to the in tank pump & sending unit. I still have the factory pump so just wanted to know what I might need to get it going. Regulator, return (if needed),
Thanks for any advise!
I used a Aeromotive bypass regulator (from Jegs) with a return line. The whole set up was like 300 bucks, I used braided lines and the return is spliced into the gas tank vent line. I found a brass T at Lowes, i think for poly tubing. I have had no problems so far.
05-24-2012 01:57 PM
LJIndiana When you used the fuel regulator to get the psi down did you have to run a return line to the tank?

The previous owner on my Jeep took the own fuel pump out. Fabricated a steel plate and mounted an aftermarket sending unit. Also a pipe/tube to feed an external pump mounted on the edge of the skid plate.

I think my pump has failed and am thinking about going back to the in tank pump & sending unit. I still have the factory pump so just wanted to know what I might need to get it going. Regulator, return (if needed),
Thanks for any advise!
05-16-2012 05:31 PM
Blacksurt
Quote:
Originally Posted by LJIndiana View Post
I just bought an 05 TJ with a 350v8 installed. Runs great.

All of the after market gauges are mounted on top of the dash. Want to do a set up like yours with custom dash.

When I unplug my stock cluster it killed everything. How did you get around this issue? Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks

Also, I'm using my gps as a speedometer.
Just to be clear when I did my conversion I did away with the computer completely.

I made the dash panel myself, I used a plastic air conditioner baffle laminated to some 1/8" plywood. I used leds for the turn signals and brights indicator (o'reilys). The fuel gauge was a little tricky as the factory gauge is a 240 full/ 33 empty sending unit. Use a 220/20 gauge and just put a 20 ohm resistor in line or use a rheostat with 20 ohm in its range(radio shack). Volt meter is easy just wire to a switched 12 volt. Oil pressure will connect right next to the distributor (towards the drivers side) on the back of the motor. There should be a place on the side of the head on the drivers side right behind #1 cylinder for the water temp, or on the front of the intake somewhere. As far as speedometer gos I went with a speedhut gps speedo works great. As far as AC I really cant help with that.


When you take out the stock instrument cluster there are 2 plugs. Here is the colors you need.


Tan=Right turn
Black/Lt Green=Ground
Orange=dash Lights
Red/Green=High beam
Dark blue/White=Hot Switched
Pink/White=Hot
Gray=Left turn


Along the drivers side frame rail(next to fuel lines)

From the fuel sending unit
Brown/Yellow=I grounded this one
Dark blue/Light green=to fuel gauge


Dark green/White=is the positive to fuel pump.

Black=ground for fuel pump


As far as making the dash panel I made a cardboard template to make sure all of the gauges would fit. The completed cluster is screwed to the dash trim from the front, you can see in the forum pics. I used a aftermarket tach which is bolted to the change tray in the top center of the dash.


Hope that helps....
05-16-2012 09:37 AM
LJIndiana I just bought an 05 TJ with a 350v8 installed. Runs great.

All of the after market gauges are mounted on top of the dash. Want to do a set up like yours with custom dash.

When I unplug my stock cluster it killed everything. How did you get around this issue? Any help with this would be appreciated. Thanks

Also, I'm using my gps as a speedometer.
02-12-2012 11:20 PM
Blacksurt If you look at #12 in this thread it about adds it all up. The rebuilt 350 ran 2500 the rest ran about 3000. I did have to put 2 inch lift spacers and the heavier 6 banger springs in the front. Also in the thread is the color code for the dash wiring and how to make the aftermarket fuel gauge work with the factory fuel sending unit. With the stock 4.10 gears 60mph is 3k rpm. 4k rpm is 80 that is running 31 inch tires. I don't drive it much over 60-65 and it does fine at that.
02-07-2012 05:00 PM
nrlemley How much did this end up costing you in total, minus the cost of the 305. I want to do a 350 swap in my 2.5L 4 banger. I desperately want more power. How is it on the highway? Good over 55? Bad? Good with further modifications? I'm going to try to get all of the parts as cheap as possible, because I'm in high school, I have no knowledge of doing anything to this magnitude, and I'll have to add on costs for installation by a local shop....
01-18-2012 02:47 PM
klpossinger TreeClimber1, that is one really nice custom cluster! What gauges are they?
01-15-2012 03:26 PM
Blacksurt If you still have what's left of your cluster, want to sell it? I'm trying to build another like mine for a buddy.[/QUOTE]


Cluster looks nice, I sold the original on ebay....
01-15-2012 02:36 PM
TreeClimber1 Sweet build.

Wish I would have found it earlier.

I've done a couple V8 swaps into Wranglers. If your fuel pressure regulator craps out, consider just pulling the pump out of the tank, and replacing it with a piece of hose. Then you can use the mechanical pump off the engine block. That's how I ran my YJ with an AMC 401 before I went to fuel injection.

On my TJ, I built a similar guage setup, but with electric guages. Had a buddy cut a piece of steel, then recessed it into the OEM cluster, behind the original plastic. Then installed the guages.

If you still have what's left of your cluster, want to sell it? I'm trying to build another like mine for a buddy.
01-15-2012 02:15 PM
Blacksurt
Update 98 TJ

Jeep now has a rebuilt Chevy 350 4 bolt main, just installed Crane 100052 Cam. Over 5000 miles on conversion with no problems.1998 Jeep TJ Chevy 350 Crane 100052 cam - YouTube
08-02-2011 09:16 AM
Blacksurt
Dash wiring information mecanical gauges

I have had questions on the dash wiring so I thought i would go ahead and post.

I made the dash panel myself, I used a plastic air conditioner baffle laminated to some 1/8" plywood. I used leds for the turn signals and brights indicator (o'reilys). The fuel gauge was a little tricky as the factory gauge is a 240 full/ 33 empty sending unit. Use a 220/20 gauge and just put a 20 ohm resistor in line or use a rheostat with 20 ohm in its range(radio shack). Volt meter is easy just wire to a switched 12 volt. Oil pressure will connect right next to the distributor (towards the drivers side) on the back of the motor. There should be a place on the side of the head on the drivers side right behind #1 cylinder for the water temp, or on the front of the intake somewhere. As far as speedometer gos I used a mechanical which was a little work to make work, I had to change the sending unit on the transfer case (assuming yours still has the NP231) to mechanical, I found mine on ebay and I had to cut the dash behind the speedo to make room for the cable which is still tight. If I had to do over i would have just used the stock electric sending unit and just gone with an electric speedo. As far as AC I really cant help with that.


When you take out the stock instrument cluster there are 2 plugs. Here is the colors you need.


Tan=Right turn
Black/Lt Green=Ground
Orange=dash Lights
Red/Green=High beam
Dark blue/White=Hot Switched
Pink/White=Hot
Gray=Left turn


Along the drivers side frame rail(next to fuel lines)

From the fuel sending unit
Brown/Yellow=I grounded this one
Dark blue/Light green=to fuel gauge


Dark green/White=is the positive to fuel pump.

Black=ground for fuel pump



As far as making the dash panel I made a cardboard template to make sure all of the gauges would fit. The completed cluster is screwed to the dash trim from the front, you can see in the forum pics. I used a aftermarket tach which is bolted to the change tray in the top center of the dash.


Hope that helps....
07-30-2011 06:47 AM
Durban Looks good man I have an 88 yj with a 350 she a beast. Have fun try and keep it on all four lol.
07-18-2011 10:46 PM
Blacksurt Update: pulled out the 305 and put in a rebuilt 4 bolt main 350. Ran into some heat issues solved those with a 19" flex fan.
05-16-2011 03:09 PM
Blacksurt For anyone doing a build like this If you are going to be doing any highway driving over 55 you might want to consider a transmission with overdrive or consider changing out differential gears. Mine runs about 3500 rpm at 55, so forget about 75 for a distance. I built mine for primarily off road use so seldom need 55 even. It is fun to drive in town though, I could smoke anything light to light.
05-16-2011 02:58 PM
Blacksurt This is what I bought, bolts right in as stock. Keeps my 305 super cool. I used the Novac weld in mounts in the furthest back position, there was plenty of clearance. I went ahead and hung the motor where i wanted it then put the radiator/electric fan in just to double check before welding.
Jeep Wrangler 87-04 New V8 Conversion Radiator Chevy | eBay
05-16-2011 10:20 AM
burton160w What radiator did you get and would that also work with a 350? I like how thin it is and the clearance it's giving you between the fan and the engine.
05-16-2011 09:59 AM
Nuts Thanks for that information, Blacksurt; the 305 sounds like what I need; fuel economy is a factor, right up there with the power of an 8. It looks like a weekend job when you have all the parts.
05-15-2011 10:33 PM
Blacksurt A 350 and a 305 fit wise would be exactly the same. I actually had a chance to get a 383 stroker (350 Chevy with a 400 crank 400HP) for the same money. I really didn't want something to radical, I will be driving it regularly and fuel economy was a factor also. 4.10 gears and 220HP out of the 305 is enough for what I wanted. If you are building a weekend warrior go for the 350...
05-15-2011 08:58 AM
Nuts Nice building. You put in the 305 and probably considered the 350 as well. Was this because of the presumably better mileage on the 305 or size/fit considerations or for some other reason? I ask because I will purchase a second Jeep and want to do what you did here. Thanks.
05-14-2011 11:58 AM
Blacksurt Here is the Jeep running....finally got the mechanical speedo drive so all the gauges are working. Had to go with single exhaust flowmaster 40. we could have squeezed a pipe down the drivers side but it would have been to close to fuel lines. Put the 6 cylinder springs and 2" lift on as well.

YouTube - 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ Chevy V8 conversion
05-01-2011 07:27 PM
Blacksurt Nice, old school.
05-01-2011 09:26 AM
scgeek12 looks awsome, love the valve covers, had them in my first camaro a few years back -
04-30-2011 10:27 PM
Blacksurt Thanks, for the comments on the dash....Just ordered a set of 4.0 springs (ebay 50.00 shipped). From what I have been able to find out the 4 banger weighed 340 lbs, the 6 weighs 515 lbs and the 305 I put in weighs about 575. Take a little off for headers and the soon to be aluminum intake, the 4.0 springs should work fine. I'm not ready to spring for a lift kit yet, the 4.0 springs should work until then.
04-30-2011 07:56 PM
Blacksurt Oh yea exhaust is going to run another 250.00. Flowmaster 40 duals out the back.
04-30-2011 07:53 PM
Blacksurt Got it fired today. Did not have to get drive shafts redone, transfer case sits about 1/2 inch forward of original. Cost of project just over 3k.

Engine 300.00
Gaskets-Timing gear set-oil pump-etc 100.00
Gauges 100.00 Oreily auto parts (everything pictured)
Fan 2500cfm ebay 75.00
Block huger headers 70.00 ebay
radiator 130.00 ebay
Transmission lines Jegs (braided steel kit) 130.00

+Hoses-fuel regulator-fuel line-fluids-fan relay-power steering hose- about 200.00

Novak: rebuilt adapted turbo 350, 23 spline input shaft np231, motor mounts, transfer case shifter and Freight. Just under 2000.00.

I will need a set of 6 cyl springs. Its saggin in the front some. Might just do a 2" lift (springs and shocks).

Project went like clockwork. 2 hours to position and weld in mounts. I advise tack welding them in with the motor in place then pulling motor up and then put beads all the way around. Don't forget to check radiator/fan clearance before you tack them in.

I rented a transmission jack and put it in from below. (about an hour). I know some like to put the whole drive line together and thread through the front, I couldn't do that due to the lack of space. I did all of this in my driveway with no garage. Long live the shade tree mechanic.
04-30-2011 04:28 PM
Nuts Did you fire it up today? I am thinking of buying a 350 (or the dauntless V6) jeep for my second vehicle. So your thread is really instructive. Please keep the updates and photos coming.
04-30-2011 01:46 AM
herbie instrument panel looks fantastic nice!!!
04-30-2011 01:45 AM
n00bkiller944 Looks awesome! I love all of your gauges!
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