|05-21-2011 10:05 PM|
|gotwood03||I just finished my 4" zone lift today took 5-1/2 hours. I marked out the hole cut the mark out and put the washer in and worked great. by doing this it just rotated the dif up and align the drive shaft a little better if you have adjustable upper you should not need to do this. I drove it about 60 miles today no vibes rides great. I did not do the transfer case drop either. very happy with this lift.|
|05-21-2011 12:57 AM|
|05-20-2011 10:58 PM|
|burton160w||So I could just skip this step and keep the bolts that came with my Currie adjustables?|
|05-20-2011 10:51 PM|
|minderbinder3||It is strictly for alignment/camber purposes. Mainly so that the lift doesn't put too much of a bind on your control arms that your alignment cannot be adjusted. It can be offset by using the concentric bolt set or adjustable control arms. I would not worry too much about this if I were you.|
|05-20-2011 10:22 PM|
|burton160w||I have adjustable rear uppers so can i simply ignore this step and adjust through my UCAs?|
|05-20-2011 10:13 PM|
|gotwood03||I am starting my zone 4" lift tomorow. I have read this part a few times to my understanding we are supposed to put an offset washer on the control arm mark out the hole and use a die grinder to offset the hole. Most likely to adjust the pinion angle to reduse vibration. I let you now tommorow if it works.|
|05-20-2011 09:54 PM|
|the idiot magnet||
It means that where your front lower control arm's has a rough section under the big washer and you will need to smooth it out. This is for your front lower control arms and where they mount to the axle.
Some jeeps have the washers there and I believe some years do not.
|05-20-2011 09:16 PM|
Stuck Installing Lift
I'm stuck on a portion of installing my Zone 4" suspension lift.
I'm stuck on step 7 of the guide on installing the rear lift.