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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-16-2014 08:02 PM
i82much For the most part, changing out a part or two on a modern naturally-aspirated engine or doing some chip programming just isn't going to get you that much. The intake tract, valve timing, bore size, stroke, exhaust tract all work in concert to make power.

Changing just the throttle body is kind of like trying to fill your engine oil faster by switching from a quart bottle to a gallon bottle but using the same funnel.

If you ported your heads, revised your cam timing, installed a freer-breathing exhaust, swapped out your throttle body, and reprogrammed your rev limiter 500 RPM higher you'd definitely see some more power. But I just don't think these type of mods do a whole lot on their own.

Forced induction is another matter, generally the factory tunes are pretty conservative and the forced induction device is electronically limited. That is where the big power gains come in by chipping a modern forced induction vehicle.
01-16-2014 07:42 PM
aussie red jk Mine is a auto 3.8ltr i have read heaps over the net about this tb change and as far as i can work out, the people who fitted this on without any other mods. And went from stock tb and cai at the same time to viper and large cai. noticed the most increase in performance. When you plug in the viper for the first time you have to turn ignition on without starting the engine engine for a min of 30 seconds for computer to relearn. Then hold throttle wide open for another 30seconds. Foot off throttle and start. Just what i have read. Cheers
01-16-2014 10:59 AM
nvkid Has any manuals noticed less hesitation with the larger TB ??
01-16-2014 08:02 AM
Paul04tj Unless the intake diameter itself is matched to the new diameter of the TB, I don't see any performance gains coming from this.

Maybe thats why this thread faded away two years ago?
01-16-2014 07:47 AM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie red jk View Post
Hi peps from aussie red from down under, just my 2bobs worth from down under. I am going to put one of these on my 2011 jku as soon as I can get one sent over to aust. I live at sea level and have mountains to climb, I will keep you informed might take about a month from now. Cheers.
Please do, thanks!
01-15-2014 10:44 PM
aussie red jk Hi peps from aussie red from down under, just my 2bobs worth from down under. I am going to put one of these on my 2011 jku as soon as I can get one sent over to aust. I live at sea level and have mountains to climb, I will keep you informed might take about a month from now. Cheers.
10-01-2012 09:08 PM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Same rpm range during acceleration.

Obviously louder with the CAI. I removed the CAI, that's when I first noticed it still whistled. Thought maybe I had a air leak but no.
You mentioned this in the past so I just chalked it up as being normal.
Ya same here, my findings copied from another thread...

2009 Auto W/3:73's, Airaid CAI, Hypertech, Magna Flow here. So far no codes and a little better driveabilty. Sounds like it's getting the air it needs now without all the effort. The slight whistle is back at about 2K. Seems to like kicking down into passing gear and back up into overdrive a little better at highway speeds. Hoping for some mileage increase as a nice side effect. Keep my fingers crossed for no bad codes and or limp mode issues stated on the other Viper TB posts.
09-21-2012 04:04 PM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Happy for the most part.

I have only two complaints, neither of which I'm certain is related to the throttle body.

First, the engine has a squeal/whining/whistle sound at certain spots in the RPM band. It's done it since a little while after I put in the intake, the VTB seemed to cure it, then it came back. It's annoying, but that's about it.

Second, at high altitudes, my throttle control sensor sometimes has a little fit, the light comes on, and I lose power. I've got to pull over, turn the jeep off and then back on, and then it's fine. This happens about once every other day whenever I go to the NC mountains--about 3500 feet above sea level. It never, ever does it in Raleigh--about 350 feet above sea level.

For both of these issues, I've thought about putting all the stock stuff back on just to see if they go away. Honestly though, I truly have no idea whether they're actually caused by the VTB, the intake, neither, or both. Putting back the stock stuff would just be an experiment.
Thanks for the follow up. I can deal with those small issues as well!
09-21-2012 02:47 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH

Interesting.

Somewhere between 2200 or so and 3000, there's a high-pitched squeal or whistle. It has no apparent effect other than to make the sound. It's been doing it for over a year now. I took it to the dealer awhile back (when I was still under warranty) and all the techs were over 45 and couldn't hear it. Notably, it only happens under load when I'm driving--revving the engine in the driveway won't do it.

I've always assumed it was due to the combination of the wide and smooth flow from the intake pipe and the wider throttle body. Just that these somehow yielded a squeal or whistle. But maybe not. I have no idea.
Same rpm range during acceleration.

Obviously louder with the CAI. I removed the CAI, that's when I first noticed it still whistled. Thought maybe I had a air leak but no.
You mentioned this in the past so I just chalked it up as being normal.
09-21-2012 02:34 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
I have the same whistle stock.
Interesting.

Somewhere between 2200 or so and 3000, there's a high-pitched squeal or whistle. It has no apparent effect other than to make the sound. It's been doing it for over a year now. I took it to the dealer awhile back (when I was still under warranty) and all the techs were over 45 and couldn't hear it. Notably, it only happens under load when I'm driving--revving the engine in the driveway won't do it.

I've always assumed it was due to the combination of the wide and smooth flow from the intake pipe and the wider throttle body. Just that these somehow yielded a squeal or whistle. But maybe not. I have no idea.
09-21-2012 02:28 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH

Happy for the most part.

I have only two complaints, neither of which I'm certain is related to the throttle body.

First, the engine has a squeal/whining/whistle sound at certain spots in the RPM band. It's done it since a little while after I put in the intake, the VTB seemed to cure it, then it came back. It's annoying, but that's about it.

Second, at high altitudes, my throttle control sensor sometimes has a little fit, the light comes on, and I lose power. I've got to pull over, turn the jeep off and then back on, and then it's fine. This happens about once every other day whenever I go to the NC mountains--about 3500 feet above sea level. It never, ever does it in Raleigh--about 350 feet above sea level.

For both of these issues, I've thought about putting all the stock stuff back on just to see if they go away. Honestly though, I truly have no idea whether they're actually caused by the VTB, the intake, neither, or both. Putting back the stock stuff would just be an experiment.
I have the same whistle stock.
09-21-2012 01:48 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by 09-SAHARA View Post
MTH, still running the V TB and happy with this set-up?

Will be doing this in the near future and wanted some long haul feedback.

Thanks for the great write-up!!
Happy for the most part.

I have only two complaints, neither of which I'm certain is related to the throttle body.

First, the engine has a squeal/whining/whistle sound at certain spots in the RPM band. It's done it since a little while after I put in the intake, the VTB seemed to cure it, then it came back. It's annoying, but that's about it.

Second, at high altitudes, my throttle control sensor sometimes has a little fit, the light comes on, and I lose power. I've got to pull over, turn the jeep off and then back on, and then it's fine. This happens about once every other day whenever I go to the NC mountains--about 3500 feet above sea level. It never, ever does it in Raleigh--about 350 feet above sea level.

For both of these issues, I've thought about putting all the stock stuff back on just to see if they go away. Honestly though, I truly have no idea whether they're actually caused by the VTB, the intake, neither, or both. Putting back the stock stuff would just be an experiment.
09-21-2012 01:40 PM
SilverSahara
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Stage 1. I did a write-up on it awhile ago where I mentioned that it produced no noticeable change in engine performance, though it actually did get me better mileage. I've been meaning to take it back out for sometime to see if my mileage drops again. Whatever it does, the viper throttle body doesn't seem to bother it.
MTH, still running the V TB and happy with this set-up?

Will be doing this in the near future and wanted some long haul feedback.

Thanks for the great write-up!!
06-11-2011 12:58 PM
trennmaschine Mike - That sounds right! Spectre is a total flash site (I hate them and I especially hate all the noises that they use).
The Lowe's part clears it up - 3" to 3" coupler, so no reducer is necessary. I'm going to pull the trigger on this since other research I've don seems to align with the better response you experience. I'm not looking for a 1/4 miler, so I think my expectations of the 'butt dyno' should justify the ~ $150 for the setup. Thanks for the reply!
06-11-2011 12:24 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by trennmaschine
Mike
I found the throttle body at mopar and they recommend a spectre performance coupler. The one I think fits the stock air to stock throttle body is this -
Spectre Performance - Official Site
Can you confirm this is the right size?
I can't get your link to work on my iPhone, but I just used this: (http://www.lowes.com/pd_23478-34146-...&stop_mobi=yes).

It fit both my AEM intake tube and the viper throttle body, and cost just a few dollars.
06-11-2011 02:46 AM
trennmaschine Mike
I found the throttle body at mopar and they recommend a spectre performance coupler. The one I think fits the stock air to stock throttle body is this -
Spectre Performance - Official Site
Can you confirm this is the right size?
06-05-2011 08:18 AM
bigbodied
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Unless you've got a 6 speed and keep the stock 32" size tire forever, you're still undergeared. But anyway . . .

Like I mentioned in the initial review, the engine seems to run more smoothly and struggle less to get up to speed. Sounds classically like "butt dyno," but there you have it. I like it and would get it again.

You will likely need to go to a hardware store and get a flexible coupler--3" wide by 3" to 4" long should do it. The intake tube for my AEM intake is wider than the stock throttle body, and, therefore, the rubber coupler that came with it tapered to the size of the stock throttle body. The viper throttle body matches the size of the intake tube, so I needed a coupler that went straight across.

I'd expect your K&N would be similar.
i do have a 6sp and plan on keeping the stock tired size for a lil bit so my 4.10 gears are suffice for now... i will be going to 40" goodyear tires over the next year or two, and at that point in time i will be upgrading to 5.38 gears.

thanks for the feed back dude!
06-05-2011 12:40 AM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by trennmaschine
MTH - What JET chip do you have? I have a stage 2 JET chip as well as a K&N air filter (stock box), and have also updated my coil, wires, and plugs, and have a Borla stainless twin catback. If the TB swap has helped with what you're describing, I'd like to give it a go myself.
Stage 1. I did a write-up on it awhile ago where I mentioned that it produced no noticeable change in engine performance, though it actually did get me better mileage. I've been meaning to take it back out for sometime to see if my mileage drops again. Whatever it does, the viper throttle body doesn't seem to bother it.
06-05-2011 12:35 AM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRubi

Mike - you have had no problem with the ETC kicking in? I am thinging about pulling the trigger on this, but a few members have mentioned this issue.
None, nor have I had any problems at all for the several thousand miles since installation. I have a 2010 6 speed, with an AEM intake and dry filter, and am not using a superchip.
06-05-2011 12:35 AM
trennmaschine MTH - What JET chip do you have? I have a stage 2 JET chip as well as a K&N air filter (stock box), and have also updated my coil, wires, and plugs, and have a Borla stainless twin catback. If the TB swap has helped with what you're describing, I'd like to give it a go myself.
06-04-2011 11:34 PM
SilverSport
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH View Post
Unless you've got a 6 speed and keep the stock 32" size tire forever, you're still undergeared. But anyway . . .

Like I mentioned in the initial review, the engine seems to run more smoothly and struggle less to get up to speed. Sounds classically like "butt dyno," but there you have it. I like it and would get it again.

You will likely need to go to a hardware store and get a flexible coupler--3" wide by 3" to 4" long should do it. The intake tube for my AEM intake is wider than the stock throttle body, and, therefore, the rubber coupler that came with it tapered to the size of the stock throttle body. The viper throttle body matches the size of the intake tube, so I needed a coupler that went straight across.

I'd expect your K&N would be similar.
Mike - you have had no problem with the ETC kicking in? I am thinging about pulling the trigger on this, but a few members have mentioned this issue.
06-04-2011 08:20 PM
nvkid I`ve had mine on for 5 months now. I can get 20mpg hwy. and 18 around town. Sometimes while coasting down a hill for a couple miles,(in gear-auto)my electronic throttle control light comes on and motor won`t throttle up. I stop,shut her off and restart,all`s fine. Shows code P2173 high air flow/vacuum leak detected (slow accumulation).
06-04-2011 07:02 PM
MTH Unless you've got a 6 speed and keep the stock 32" size tire forever, you're still undergeared. But anyway . . .

Like I mentioned in the initial review, the engine seems to run more smoothly and struggle less to get up to speed. Sounds classically like "butt dyno," but there you have it. I like it and would get it again.

You will likely need to go to a hardware store and get a flexible coupler--3" wide by 3" to 4" long should do it. The intake tube for my AEM intake is wider than the stock throttle body, and, therefore, the rubber coupler that came with it tapered to the size of the stock throttle body. The viper throttle body matches the size of the intake tube, so I needed a coupler that went straight across.

I'd expect your K&N would be similar.
06-04-2011 05:55 PM
bigbodied im not worried about gears, my ruby has 4.10 gears.--what was the biggest change that you noticed after about a week of driving the jeep around with the viper TB?-- and would you do it all over again if you had the choice?

really want to throw a supercharger on but thats a down the road mod. still have a lot of things in the drivetrain and suspension area before that...

i think im going to try it out man, but wont be able to do it for about another three mons due to being away from home... but when its complete i will def re-post on let you know on my success or disaster...
06-04-2011 02:48 PM
MTH As I understand it, a throttle body spacer is meaningless on non-carbureted engines, so by all means--get rid of it.

Usually I'd recommend a regear instead of all the air stuff, but since you're already there it's fairly low cost to complete the whole set up by swapping in a viper throttle body. At that point you've done just about everything possible from an air standpoint short of a supercharger.

I have no idea whether it will work with your superchip and overall set up. Seems to cause no problems for some, but does for others.
06-04-2011 12:19 PM
bigbodied i have a k&n intake, throttle body spacer, upgraded ignition coil, wires, and plugs. also have headers, cat back exhaust and a superchip flashpaq.

i know i would have to lose the spacer if i went w/ this throttle body, but 1. would i even see a diff in performance over the stock TB and TB spacer? 2. i know you said the SC flashpaq pretty much works against it, but with all the other mods do you think that everything would be able to work in coheasion?
03-09-2011 09:38 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister
What concerned me is where he said "couldn't rev past 4000" even after removing the SC.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MTH
I'll give 4k+ a go on the way home.
Hit 4700 tonight no problem and then shifted. I don't know what was happening with the other guy.
03-09-2011 03:56 PM
kik Real nice write up and informative. With my 10 Rubi 2dr 6spd I don't have any performance issues and since I'm carrying a bit less weight with the 2dr there isn't a specific benefit to me which would warrant making the switch. But, I appreciate the info. so I could make an informed decision.
03-09-2011 01:58 PM
MTH
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Sinister View Post
What concerned me is where he said "couldn't rev past 4000" even after removing the SC.
Yikes. Missed that . . . .

I haven't tried to rev past 4k RPMs. I generally shift around 2500 to 3k for gas mileage purposes. I've revved up to about 3700 or so though and it sounds better than it ever has.

I'll give 4k+ a go on the way home.

Edit: Now that I think about it though, I'd probably leave it installed even if it does cause the Jeep to top out at 4k. I've hardly ever broken 4k in the nine months I've had the Jeep. By contrast, I'm in the sub-3500 range everywhere I drive. Thus, the Viper TB's improvements at sub-3500 so far would probably make it worth it to say goodbye to 4k+. (Though I might revisit this the next time I need 4Lo . . . .) In any event, I'll check this evening.
03-09-2011 01:55 PM
Mr. Sinister What concerned me is where he said "couldn't rev past 4000" even after removing the SC.
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