|06-06-2011 11:44 AM|
I think im just going to sell it and start over. I really compromised when i saw this jeep. I wanted a black jeep to make it black on black on black. Ive always wanted this type of vehicle but never been in the situation to make it happen. I looked for a whole month day after day trying to find the black jeep i wanted but it just never happend. So when i seen this one i got such a good deal on it i was going to just paint it black this summer. Then as time goes by and i drive it im finding these things that needs to be addressed. I think it will make someone else a good jeep but just not what im wanting.
Ill try to find a stock jeep and just do the work. With the money ill make off the sale ill be looking at 4k to spend on mods. Hopefully next week ill start a thread on what parts to buy for my new jeep. lol I really appreciate all the help. I love community forums.
|06-06-2011 11:14 AM|
Now adding/replacing the current body lift with a 1.25" lift is a good idea and can be done by anyone. Try that first and that should eliminate the issue with the transfer case.
|06-06-2011 10:55 AM|
|Tyewilly||I'd definitely switch the body lift for something more reasonable and get the 4low sorted out. You might consider trying to find a good set of used axles out of a four cylinder jeep, they come with 4.10 gears stock. It may be a lot cheaper than regearing the axles you've got. You may even be able to get a locker with the money you saved, and have spare parts.|
|06-06-2011 09:55 AM|
I wouldn't even say that it would cost $3k. $1200-1500 for the regear, including parts and labor. $120 for the JKS BL. If you have a jack, block of wood, and a wrench set you can do a body lift install and save more money. Hopefully removing the 3" one won't be too much trouble. Also I would suggest a MML as it helps with driveline angles and vibrations for that 4" lift.
Well, jp2611 said $3k to be "set". That says to me to install the smaller BL, a MML, a SYE kit and regear. Which would cost you around that much for a shop to do it all.
I'll also throw out that it is much cheaper to buy a jeep modded and freshen it up than to buy a stock jeep and mod it. Jeep mods translate poorly to trade in value. I still so wish that I got the TJ with the chevy 350 in it (also came across one with an LS2). Damn you emissions tests in my county!
|06-06-2011 09:15 AM|
Idk-just another opinion----From what I am "hearing" for what you want to do a regear and replace of body lift with a 1.25 and you would be "set". Already have the money invested in the Jeep-the previous owner couldn't have wheeled it in the condition it is in, so it hasn't been "beat on". I think I would find a couple of "good" shops, one for the regear and one for the lift. I would GUESS $3000 tops would cover everything.
Biggest decision will be what gears are going to work best for you? I think it would cost more to get another TJ or even JK close to stock and start over. You already have the 4" suspension and 33s" --If you regear and correct the bodylift you are done. Check the cost of a 4" suspension lift and 33"s a lot more than the $3000 I am guessing at.
just my .02
|06-06-2011 08:27 AM|
This is not my daily driver but i do drive it around. I would have taken it on my last vacation but the gas milage is 10-13 mpg at best. I would like to get a gear ratio that is better for highway use but still able to go offroad.
Im starting to think i should just sell this TJ and get me something that has not been modded and then put what i want on it.
|06-05-2011 11:33 PM|
|06-05-2011 11:26 PM|
All those plates are definitely drop down brackets for your shifter linkage. I agree with TJDave that your angle is so severe that it is preventing you from shifting to 4low.
To fix your shifter linkage after you remove the body lift you will need to remove all those drop brackets. The pivot point mounts directly to the U bracket and move the U bracket back up. Then adjust the shifter using the bolt that Jerry pointed out. Oh and while doing this and if you need to remove any of the rods try to pop them out while leaving the rubber bushings in the arms and not on the rods. Those things are a royal pain to put back in.
Most suggested body lift is the JKS 1.25" (this comes with a drop bracket to use on your shifter when you have a t-case drop and/or no engine lift). It is considered the max body lift you would want to install. Other good one is Daystar 1", I believe it comes with all new hardware so if any stock part is mangled you would have a replacement. Definitely wait for a guy that is experienced at removing a 3" body lift for what you would need to do to correct the "problems" with installing one.
|06-05-2011 11:08 PM|
The 3 speed has the lock up torque converter which does roughly the same thing as an OD gear. I would say either 4.11 or 4.56 would be fine. depends on if the OP wants a sportier ride or better MPGs.
|06-05-2011 11:07 PM|
|06-05-2011 11:00 PM|
|06-05-2011 10:57 PM|
I only have experience with the JKS 1.25" body lift. I also installed their 1" motor mount lift at the same time. I had some vibes after adding a 2" spacer lift years ago, the MML solved that without dropping the transfer case. There may be better ones out there, but the JKS has been working great for almost 4 years since the install.
Keep in mind, the PO probably messed with other stuff when he installed that 3" body lift that may need to be addressed. Find a buddy with a TJ and crawl under and around it and look for goofy stuff on yours.
Your tranny, 4.56 gears, and 33" tires are ideal.
|06-05-2011 10:53 PM|
|InvertChaos||The 2.72 ratio is in your transfer case. What most people swap out is the axle gears. I'm gonna guess that you have 3.07s. I actually went from 3.73s to 4.56s a few months ago. Its the perfect ratio for the 4.0L and 5 speed. However its not cheap and can set you back $1100-1800. Since this isn't your DD getting your highway power back probably wont be as important to you as it was to me though.|
|06-05-2011 10:52 PM|
|GrassKicker||Headbasha, do you live in the Cullman area? I am in Huntsville, I haven't been to Stoney yet but I want to. I have been a couple of times to Hale Mountain OHV. It is about 30-45 min. northeast of Huntsville in Elora, TN.|
|06-05-2011 10:48 PM|
|headbasha||Thanks dave, what BL should I go with? Will that kit come with all the stuff to fix the effd up stuff? Now, what about the power loss issues on highway and going up hill. That tag says 272 gears. What gears should I get? Should I stick with 33"?|
|06-05-2011 10:32 PM|
That flat plate hanging down from your tub is an add on bracket. The tub mount looks as if it has also been relocated and lowered. The whole thing is eff'd up. There lies your problem. The body lift is so tall, the angle to your shift lever is still messed up no matter how many fudged fix-its the PO added. You may (maybe) be able to adjust the slide rod to get your 4lo back, but I am doubtful.
I stand by my suggestion above.
|06-05-2011 10:21 PM|
I agree with TJDave that you should just get the 1.25" BL that's complete and that should solve most of your problems.
Don't go that 37" route because you'll still have to deal with the massive body lift, a regear, and new axles when you blow those up.
As far as the shifter linkage I can't be of much help. I know with my 1.25"BL there was a bolt that was preventing the linkage from engaging the 4lo all the way. Welding the linkage and taking out the bolt solved that problem.
|06-05-2011 10:09 PM|
|06-05-2011 09:36 PM|
I took some pics of the linkage now that i know what im looking at. Can anyone make a prognosis?
|06-05-2011 09:34 PM|
I dont see the logic behind any of that, unless it was a joke.
To the original poster. First thing I would do is get rid of the 3" body lift. Then adjust the transfer case linkage. That would most likely clear up any issues with shifting into 4lo.
|06-05-2011 09:34 PM|
|06-05-2011 08:57 PM|
Replace the 3" body lift with a 1.25" body lift. It will come with new bolts and grill supports so you will not have to worry about shortening or finding the right length body bolts. It will also come with a TC linkage bracket in case you need it (although I would recommend a Novak cable shifter). You will also be set for a tummy tuck should you want one in the future. Then, adjust your linkage by the above method.
|06-05-2011 08:38 PM|
Id get my Jeep fixed (something must be wrong other than the obvious issue with 4 low). Then I'd replace those half bald mtz's with some 37" TSL's and wheel with a ride home till you destroy the rear end and rebuild as you break shit.
If I already had a 3" sl and a 3" bl, I'd put some meat under there and enjoy.
|06-05-2011 07:44 PM|
Shifting from 4Hi to 4Lo would give you roughtly the same power boost and increase in engine rpms like shifting from 3rd gear to 1st gear would.
The 1" t-case drop is further exacerbating the situation caused by the 3" body lift... the two combined are creating a problem for the t-case shifter like a 4" body lift or a 4" t-case drop.
A 3" body lift often needs modification be done to the transmission shifter lever (bending) and fuel lines (extending them) next to the fuel filler cap so it may not be all that easily removed if you're not handy with tools and figuring out issues that it could have caused.
The above are just a couple reasons why I always recommend against the installation of a 3" body lift.
|06-05-2011 07:42 PM|
|SirCanni||4 low basically doubles your gearing. So If you have 3.07 gears, in 4 low will be like having 6.14 gearing. Get 4 low fixed and you'll be able to crawl over near anything.|
|06-05-2011 07:27 PM|
It also has a 1" transfer case drop. If i do take out the body lift, how do i do that? Or should i get a shop to do it. And what will it affect? Is that all that has to be done is just remove the body lift?
Also, Can someone explain the 4low as in how it works compared to 4high.
|06-05-2011 07:20 PM|
Your transfer case's shifter mechanism has likely pulled out of adjustment. The 3" body lift may be partly or even completely responsible for the shifter problem since a 3" body lift misaligns one side of the shifter mechanism's mounting bracket by 3".
There are transfer case mounting bracket kits made to correct that problem but they are a PITA to install and not 100% effective for more extreme situations like a 3" body lift causes. I'd get rid of the 3" body lift and then you can adjust the shifter mechanism so it reliably shifts the t-case into 4Lo.
The bolt circled in red in the below photo is what holds the shifter mechanism in adjustment but it's not so good at doing that if there is a 3" body lift installed.
|06-05-2011 07:12 PM|
|knnphillips||That sounds about like the same issue we had in Shell's TJ trying to get it into 4H we just had to find the sweet spot.|
|06-05-2011 06:58 PM|
|06-05-2011 06:44 PM|
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