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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-06-2011 10:16 PM
97wrangler-242 Get the ford 8.8 from east coast gear supply and find a hp Dana 30 out of a 95-99 Cherokee. Or if you want to run 4.10s pick up a lp Dana 30 out of a 4cyl wrangler. They had 4.10s factory and ecgs offers the 8.8 with 4.10s. Stock 8.8 and cromo shafts in the d30 with 4.10s is a nice combo for 33s at a decent price
06-06-2011 10:07 PM
firefighter777
Quote:
The axles are not difficult. The gears need are person that has done it before.

The OP stated he doesn't have time to do the work himself.
Nor the skill, I'll be honest. Thanks for the input, much appreciated.
06-06-2011 07:51 PM
nick50471 The axles are not difficult. The gears need are person that has done it before.

The OP stated he doesn't have time to do the work himself.
06-06-2011 07:04 PM
clg82 Are the superior axles easy to install?
06-06-2011 05:48 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter777
Looking to upgrade my axles. Currently have the weak D30 front and D35 in rear with 3.73 gears. I run 33's and wanted to regear but figured it would be stupid to regear the 35. So whats everyone's advice on the easiest route to go with the axles and gears more suitable for my set up. I can barely weld and dont have much experience with axles so thats something to keep in mind also. Thanks for the opinions everyone!
Since you are on a limited budget and already have a SYE. I would upgrade your D35 to Superior Axle S35 kit and Regear the front.
Out the door for everything installed you will be at $2500.
New gears, master install kits, rear locker everything.


You can't swap a D44 or 8.8 for that price unless you are given a gift.

Make certain you get a Superior Axle S35. Call Savvy Offroad.
06-06-2011 05:38 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig

Are you sure about that? I see U-bolts holding the joint to the yoke.
You are correct. He does have the SYE.
06-06-2011 05:09 PM
clg82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
Are you sure about that? I see U-bolts holding the joint to the yoke.



Slip Yoke eliminator....basically means you have a bolt on yoke on the case instead one one that can slip out if all hell breaks loose.

To me a CV is not an upgrade, but a downgrade actually. Its design uses two joints instead of one to create the angle needed to hook to the rear axle. In theory they will last longer buy dividing the angle by 2...but if you run a larger single joint you will increase the strength, decrease the cost, and the angle wont hurt it in the slightest.
Ok I see so you believe that it is possible to upgrade the rear axles without having to install a CV?
06-06-2011 05:03 PM
Ibuildembig
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
No SYE.

If you upgrade axles you should add SYE/CV
Are you sure about that? I see U-bolts holding the joint to the yoke.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clg82 View Post
So since I own a tj already it came with the SYE? and excuse me for the noob question but what does sye stand for? and also why do you not suggest going to upgrade the CV
Slip Yoke eliminator....basically means you have a bolt on yoke on the case instead one one that can slip out if all hell breaks loose.

To me a CV is not an upgrade, but a downgrade actually. Its design uses two joints instead of one to create the angle needed to hook to the rear axle. In theory they will last longer buy dividing the angle by 2...but if you run a larger single joint you will increase the strength, decrease the cost, and the angle wont hurt it in the slightest.
06-06-2011 04:59 PM
clg82
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibuildembig View Post
SYE's are on a TJ, but CV's are not if you upgrade to a larger u-joint which is what everyone needs to do anyway honestly. I will never run a CV in anything, too many parts, too expensive, and weak.
So since I own a tj already it came with the SYE? and excuse me for the noob question but what does sye stand for? and also why do you not suggest going to upgrade the CV
06-06-2011 04:55 PM
Ibuildembig SYE's are on a TJ, but CV's are not if you upgrade to a larger u-joint which is what everyone needs to do anyway honestly. I will never run a CV in anything, too many parts, too expensive, and weak.
06-06-2011 04:54 PM
clg82
Quote:
Originally Posted by sickboy98tj View Post
x2. Get the SYE and CV shaft in there ASAP. And you will need that if you go for the 8.8. I have that in my TJ from a '97 exploder eddie bauer (disc brakes, 3.73 gears to match my D30, added ARB) and I love it. I ran it w/o an SYE for a few months and due to the slightly off center diff had a catastrohpic uJoint failure and had to get towed home and to the shop. I finally broke down and bought the SYE and CV shaft. This also set me up to run higher clearance belly skids. I have absolutely no regrets. I got a Tom Woods set up and they have a great warranty. I broke the Cardan joint on a trail a few years a later due to a ujoint failure. i sent everything back to them, and they rebuilt it with brand new Ujoints and sent it back to me under warranty (read: FREE minus initial shipping).

That said, i ran a D35 w/ a lunchbox locker and Chromoly shafts for about a year, w/ 33's, steel wheels, and hard trails. The splines on the chromoly shafts started to tweak and that's why I upgraded to the F8.8.

You could easily get a Bolt in Dana 44 but if you buy one of those, it'll be expensive, about $1000 just to get one when i checked inot it. Sometimes they got for good deals on forums but you really have to surf around and dig for them- they are out there though, as a friend of mine scored F/R Rubi D44's out of a lightly used rubi TJ that was being built into a buggy for something stupid low... think of to the tune of $300-$500. that's the exception, but proof those deals are out there. Be patient... they will come along.

A lot of people do Ford 9" swaps too, or they will get the kits from currie enterprises. They say doing that will set you up to run 40's when you get the right shafts/gears, but of course there is a price tag with that.

good luck, happy hunting!
Thanks for the input sick.....it kind of disapoints me that I found everything I wanted in my jeep (5 speed, 6 cylinder, lift, tires, quick discon) but didn't even think to check the rear because I thought the jeeps drivetrain was built to last....disapointing.
06-06-2011 04:51 PM
clg82 So does everyone agree that upgrading the SYE/CV are essential before upgrading the rear axles? And also what is the purpose of this?
06-06-2011 04:50 PM
sickboy98tj x2. Get the SYE and CV shaft in there ASAP. And you will need that if you go for the 8.8. I have that in my TJ from a '97 exploder eddie bauer (disc brakes, 3.73 gears to match my D30, added ARB) and I love it. I ran it w/o an SYE for a few months and due to the slightly off center diff had a catastrohpic uJoint failure and had to get towed home and to the shop. I finally broke down and bought the SYE and CV shaft. This also set me up to run higher clearance belly skids. I have absolutely no regrets. I got a Tom Woods set up and they have a great warranty. I broke the Cardan joint on a trail a few years a later due to a ujoint failure. i sent everything back to them, and they rebuilt it with brand new Ujoints and sent it back to me under warranty (read: FREE minus initial shipping).

That said, i ran a D35 w/ a lunchbox locker and Chromoly shafts for about a year, w/ 33's, steel wheels, and hard trails. The splines on the chromoly shafts started to tweak and that's why I upgraded to the F8.8.

You could easily get a Bolt in Dana 44 but if you buy one of those, it'll be expensive, about $1000 just to get one when i checked inot it. Sometimes they got for good deals on forums but you really have to surf around and dig for them- they are out there though, as a friend of mine scored F/R Rubi D44's out of a lightly used rubi TJ that was being built into a buggy for something stupid low... think of to the tune of $300-$500. that's the exception, but proof those deals are out there. Be patient... they will come along.

A lot of people do Ford 9" swaps too, or they will get the kits from currie enterprises. They say doing that will set you up to run 40's when you get the right shafts/gears, but of course there is a price tag with that.

good luck, happy hunting!
06-06-2011 04:45 PM
Ibuildembig Call Jeremy at Custom Diffs, he is a personal friend of mine and can do your gears and SYE stuff too.

He was a TTC winner and knows his stuff as well as anyone in the country.

573-483-3343
06-06-2011 04:39 PM
clg82 Wow what a great thread....I am in the same boat as the OP....thanks for the topic firefighter
06-06-2011 04:33 PM
firefighter777 whats the cost of sye/cv installed. i have absolutely no time to do it myself.
06-06-2011 04:32 PM
nick50471 No SYE.

If you upgrade axles you should add SYE/CV
06-06-2011 04:28 PM
firefighter777 thats weird I can see them. how about this...

06-06-2011 04:17 PM
nick50471 Pics not working
06-06-2011 04:05 PM
firefighter777





Im gonna say theres no sye, but tell me if you see something I don't.
06-06-2011 12:13 AM
WhiteSandsJeep For under a thousand you can have a 8.8 with a limited slip delivered to your door ready to bolt in from ECGS.
Complete Ford 8.8" Rear Axle Assembly Jeep TJ Ready to Bolt In Axle Swap
06-05-2011 11:11 PM
Jerry Bransford Take a pic of the front of the rear driveshaft and post it, we then can tell you if you have a SYE and CV driveshaft. Or look at the rear driveshaft and count how many u-joints it has. If it has three total with two u-joints up front, it is a CV driveshaft and you also have a SYE kit installed. If the rear driveshaft has two u-joints, one at both ends, then you have the factory driveshaft which is a bit iffy/short for a 4" suspension lift.

A 4" lift is actually quite an optimal height for a TJ. My last TJ (stolen) had closer to 5.5" of suspension lift and my present TJ has a 4" lift but it actually does a better job on the really tough trails I enjoy doing.
06-05-2011 11:07 PM
Black98 well if you plan to keep this for a long time invest in a nice ford 8.8 rear, you cant go wrong with that
06-05-2011 10:58 PM
firefighter777 not that i am aware of. previous owner could have added it not sure. I bought the jeep with the lift to save cash.
06-05-2011 10:54 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter777
I have auto trans and I would like to spend as less as possible, but I understand how much things costs. i really dont see myself jumping up to 35's anytime soon. I have a 4 in lift and Im holding out to get a 5in RE kit. I dont wheel it terribly hard, it has only seen rocks once so far. But I would rather do it right than do it cheap.
Are you running a SYE and CV driveshaft with your 4" lift?
06-05-2011 10:52 PM
firefighter777 I have auto trans and I would like to spend as less as possible, but I understand how much things costs. i really dont see myself jumping up to 35's anytime soon. I have a 4 in lift and Im holding out to get a 5in RE kit. I dont wheel it terribly hard, it has only seen rocks once so far. But I would rather do it right than do it cheap.
06-05-2011 10:42 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter777 View Post
Currently have the D30 front and weak D35 in rear with 3.73 gears. I run 33's and wanted to regear but figured it would be stupid to regear the 35.
If you don't also want to install a locker, it's entirely reasonable (within reason of course haha) to regear your axles for 33" tires. If you have the 5-speed, 4.56 would be a good ratio.

But the Dana 35c does start getting a tad iffy with 33" tires if you're doing hard trails so if you have the $$$, there are a few ways to upgrade it or install something that will hold together with that, a locker, or even with 35" tires. Your budget is the key issue, what do you feel you can spend?

By the way, I corrected what you said that I quoted a bit... the front Dana 30 is actually a fairly strong axle as it is and is commonly used for 35" tires.
06-05-2011 10:40 PM
Wrangler06 a lot of people regear the 30 and 35 especially with 33s..most people do upgrades once they get to 35s but d44s would be a stronger option or a ford 8.8 rear and upgrade the 30 but ill let the smarter ones chime in ;]
06-05-2011 10:35 PM
firefighter777
Advice on Axle Upgrade

Looking to upgrade my axles. Currently have the weak D30 front and D35 in rear with 3.73 gears. I run 33's and wanted to regear but figured it would be stupid to regear the 35. So whats everyone's advice on the easiest route to go with the axles and gears more suitable for my set up. I can barely weld and dont have much experience with axles so thats something to keep in mind also. Thanks for the opinions everyone!

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