|12-05-2013 05:42 AM|
Bolts fell out ? Assuming they never tightened them properly.
FYI .. You can not force a 9/16 into a 14mm. Assuming the bushing/mount hole was reamed for it to work.
|12-03-2013 08:23 AM|
Track bar bracket axle side
2012 JKU with 47,000 miles.
Stock except for aluminum front bumper, winch and front leveling puck. Stock tire size but switched out to snow tire tread.
Experienced death wobble. Suspension bolt upgrade done previous to the DW by a garage. Not sure they did the best job, rear control arm bolt fell out a few days latter. They forced a 9/16 bolt through the 14mm frame side track bar bushing and 14mm bracket hole.
Looked at Planman's videos and diagnosed:
Bad ball joints.
Bad drag link ends.
Bad tie rod ends.
Bad track bar bushings.
Ovaled out track bar bracket bolt holes - axle and frame ends.
Have not checked the upper and lower control arms, but will.
Have checked wheels and tires for balance and roundness.
Seeking advise on:
The best axle side track bar bracket. Would prefer a bolt on since I don't weld. Not much to choose from for a non lifted Jeep.
Or would weld nuts be the way to go.
Teraflex track bar.
Tie rod ends.
Drag link ends.
Also looking for a shop in Montgomery County MD to weld the track bar bracket or weld nuts.
|11-06-2013 07:25 PM|
|jkmohican||Jus replaced the track bar and pitman/drag link end, everything else is sound. Aligning it tomorrow but I must admit I'm terrified to test it to see if it is gone. It only happens at 55+ On large pot holes so as you can imagine, If I still have it I will most likely break something else. I wish there was a safe way to test if I still have it. Everything up front is solid and feels good around town now... We'll see.|
|11-06-2013 12:44 PM|
This was the best post ever! I just fixed my death wobble on my 08 Wrangle JK. Much better now. Thanks for the very informative videos.
Pirate Girl Deb
|11-02-2013 10:47 AM|
|11-01-2013 04:00 PM|
I just finished changing the lower control arms and the track bar bolts and it was not an easy task for one person. If you have air tools I recommend using them for removal of the bolts. To get to the bolt/nut on the lower side of the front trackbar, you need to be sort of a contortionist. I did not do the upper arms, forget that.
How I wish I had a lift. Doing this and reaching the 125 lbs of torque on the wrench on your back is not easy at my age.
I am glad I'm done with this...
|10-30-2013 07:24 PM|
|10-30-2013 04:10 PM|
|10-30-2013 02:41 PM|
Okay, I just received my bolt kit, but no instructions.
I included a picture of the bolts received, (nuts and washers not included in the picture).
Can someone tell me where these go? From left to right?
|10-30-2013 09:11 AM|
However, left unfixed, or masked with the steering stabilizer, it can end up taking out the ball joints, unit bearings, drag link and tie rod ends, steering box, control arm bushings, etc.
If those other components are damaged or worn, and all you do is address the trackbar, you will still have problems, and the trackbar (bushings, bolt holes, etc.) may end up with issues again.
|10-29-2013 04:57 PM|
|jkmohican||So quick question for you... I've PMd you about a week ago about welding washers to my track bar mounts due to ovaled holes, you answered that is the common fix so I'm doing this next week. My question is, kinda to get a better understanding from your videos and article, is that since I replaced the front track bar, it's torqued to spec and has no ovaled holes (when it's all said and done), this should mean I should no longer have death wobble because based on your article, you say how the track bar is THE cause of death wobble, and other steering components mainly just cause shimmies. Since the track bar is the component in charge of keeping the axle aligned, that should mean that if the track bar is within the correct spec, no death wobble should occur, considering death wobble is the case of all the components trying to fix what the track bar can not, is this correct? (Sorry for long question.)|
|10-27-2013 11:19 PM|
planman, indeed I did and talked to my son about it, besides encouraging him to watch the videos. He's not in a place where he can easily get together with friends (most of whom I wouldn't trust with a spud gun, much less a tool) and try and make a better diagnosis.
I've asked in the Minnesota forum, and with luck, he may wind up at a fellow Forum member' place next weekend.
And yes, those are great videos!
|10-27-2013 10:10 PM|
|2013 gecko||Great videos and after watching I think I'm going to do some preventative maintenance.|
|10-27-2013 09:26 PM|
Few dealer techs have the training to fix the problems.
|10-26-2013 05:18 PM|
Non-DW Shimmy - Shop Rec Needed
My 18-year old college freshman has reported the Non-DW shimmy when turning left, usually at speed on the freeway, on our '09 JKUS. I'd like the consensus of which dealership in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area to have it seen by, as it's still under its extended warranty and tuition ain't cheap, even at a state school!
Thanks for your opinions and experiences, as I realize not all Jeep dealership service shops are created equal.
|09-04-2013 05:15 PM|
|GonzoBobH||It's stopped, but to be honest - in the back of my mind, any time I am driving, I wonder if it is going to happen again.|
|08-29-2013 12:37 PM|
|08-29-2013 12:35 PM|
If you have done everything I show in the videos, then you need to go further and do everything I include In the inspection checklist at the beginning of this thread.
It is highly unlikely that the stock lower ball joints are still good at 105k miles.
|08-28-2013 12:54 PM|
|mud707||I've experienced dw on my 07 X unlimited last week I bought it used at 36k and now it has 105k stock condition and read this thread, but can't find anything wrong. First I undid the stabilizer and proceeded to check my track bar, but it has a 13/16th bolt on it instead of the 14mm (or is 14 the diameter of the shaft itself?) that is listed is this normal? To be on the safe side I went torque it down to 125lbs but it was pretty much set there already. Next I check the draglink and tierod everything seemed good then moved on to the ball joints and control arms wich are good. Any other suggestions?|
|08-27-2013 02:18 PM|
I ended up adding adjustable lower control arms by teraflex, finally put in my adjustable track bar and then had the beast aligned.
Drives great, but only time will tell.
Comment on the LCA - crazy beefy monsters.
Regarding the information in the posts, tell me if I have this correct:
Ensure camber, caster, toe, etc. are all withing the specified range. Oh, and watch the video.
Did I miss anything?
|08-08-2013 01:01 PM|
|08-08-2013 10:11 AM|
|08-07-2013 10:20 PM|
I would suggest just buying a whole OEM style trackbar off quadratec for $80. will save you lots of frustration.
on my 08 the bushings were both different sizes, the frame end being smaller. Was supposed to not press the outer bushing sleeve out, and install the new bushing inside it. First of all, i didnt know that before i did it, oops. Could NOT find a replacement bushing WHATSOEVER. Furthermore, that's not the right way to do this. At all.
Besides that, takes an hour or less to change a trackbar. The bushings? Heh....hope you have a torch.
I was able to get a used trackbar for a song off this forum though.
|08-07-2013 01:26 PM|
|08-07-2013 01:01 PM|
Spec'd front oem trackbar replacement bushings for the '08 JKU at Quadratec. Their description of the bushing says it's for the frame end only from '07-'09 and for both ends from '10-'13.
Anyone know why the difference and where to get both?
|08-07-2013 12:34 PM|
Guess I have a lot of reading to do tonight, since I...
JUST FREAKING EXPERIENCED THE TERROR OF THE WARBLE!!!!
Holy Crap that was a wild experience, damn near bouncing off a residential but pocketed mountain road. Reading about the warble is one thing -- and certainly doesn't prepare you for the experience.
Hmmm, where to start.
|08-06-2013 03:57 PM|
Technically, they are F9, not grade 9.
Regarding the torque wrench, it will hold its calibration longer if only used to clockwise/tighten and not used to loosen anything.
Does that mean you can't use it to tighten/torque a reverse thread bolt in a counterclockwise fashion? No.
It just means that you shouldn't use a torque wrench to loosen a bolt, and it will hold its calibration longer if you only use it to clockwise/tighten/torque.
|08-06-2013 02:44 PM|
Bolt Grade Ratings
US bolts only come in Grade 2; Grade 5; Grade 8; and Stainless / Grade 8-18.. There is no Grade 9.
What Are the Different Grades of Bolts? | eHow
|08-06-2013 02:16 PM|
I don't totaly agree with the statement that torque wrenches only be used for tightening direction.. Some may take this as meaning that the wrench can only be used in a clockwise direction.. As long as you are tightening you can do counter-clockwise torque jobs too.. (For left hand thread applications).
That's probably what he ment but there is always the possibility of some confusion here by some inexperianced people in here! Otherwise good job!
|07-27-2013 04:11 PM|
I have the cheapest torque wrench i could find. Offbrand from oreilly auto parts. But its guaranteed forever. One time it fell apart and almost seriously hurt me. A screw on it wasnt properly torque. Go figure. But it is calibrated well and they replaced it no questions asked. Maybe buying the cheapest one wasnt the best idea.
This one was calibrated from the factory.
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