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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-12-2012 08:55 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Nice update, thanks!
No problem, I'm planning on doing a follow up review of the Currie Currectlync steering. It's currently in transit to me and I'll have it installed some time next week hopefully. Everything in my entire front end is brand new with less than a thousand miles on any given part except for my track bar, which has a new bushing on the axle side. The steering gear box is a Remanufactured PSC box, all of my front control arms are Currie, I have the Currie axle housing kit installed as well. The Ball joints are brand new Spicer joints, the unit bearings are brand new Timken assemblies. Currently there is no play at all in any of my front end parts except for the RR steering, even my shocks and springs are brand new as well. I'll post back in this thread when I have the new steering installed so I can confirm or deny one steering over the other in a true back to back comparison.
04-12-2012 08:21 PM
Jerry Bransford Nice update, thanks!
04-12-2012 07:58 PM
necromancer_tat I got a PM today asking me about this steering. I realised that I hadn't updated this thread, or part 2 of this thread.

Let me start out by posting this video:

Why inverted T steering sucks on a lifted vehicle. - YouTube

And let me swear on a stack of Bibles that everyone that warned me about this steering was right, and I was wrong. Do not buy this steering unless you like fearing for your life when you drive down the road and don't want to remain in your lane... It worked awesome for me, for all of about a thousand miles, then it just didn't work anymore. It was really weird, it worked fine on my way to work, then on my way home I couldn't keep my Jeep in my own lane unless I sawed the steering wheel back and forth constantly like in the old movies... it sucked!
08-15-2011 11:57 AM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector6 View Post
did you make a conversation piece outta this steering yet?
No, I still run it, the only problem I've had so far is one of the tre rubber dust boots busted, I either over tightened it, or I over greased it. I've driven all over town, up to 65-70 mph, and I'm still not running a stabilizer. I haven't experienced any shimmy or wobble.
08-15-2011 11:11 AM
Vector6 did you make a conversation piece outta this steering yet?
06-25-2011 08:13 AM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Well, if you can distinguish my wry sense of humor, more than a teeny bit of sarcasm and vast amounts of knowledge on certain subjects from sounding high and mighty, good luck. My dry matter of fact posting style has been very offputting to more than one person that thought he knew something.



I don't know that I'm an expert in offroad steering, but I am exceptionally experienced with the TJ and making it go offroad on about any size tire that works.



Yeah, that's a tough place to be because well working durable steering isn't cheap even when you don't go mainstream with proven solutions and the proven solutions are anything but cheap.



I'll wait for the full berating and belittlement until you get to know me better. In the meantime, I'll be nicer.



I believe that puts you ahead of me in the time game. I've only been doing this since May of 99 when we got our first TJ.
Sorry, I don't usually get so thin skinned when people give me a hard time, I guess I just need to harden up a bit. I got your PM with your phone number and I appreciate that you would offer to help, that's pretty cool


Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
I believe that puts you ahead of me in the time game. I've only been doing this since May of 99 when we got our first TJ.
I'm far from being ahead of anyone, This is my first TJ build. As far as Jeeps go I've owned an 86 CJ7, a 95 YJ, 2 97 TJ's one of which is the TJ I'm building now, an 04 TJ, and an 03 Rubicon which is my current daily driver. The 86 was lifted on 33's when I got it and I just left it like it was. The 95 was lifted on 33's when I got it and I just left it like it was, my first 97 TJ was left stock while I had it, my 04 was left stock while I had it, and my Rubicon is also stock.... So although I've had and wheeled several Jeeps over the years this is my first TJ build.

Over the years I've built 2 Suburbans, a k5 blazer, 2 Broncos, a Chevy Luv, 2 F150's, an F250, and prolly a couple more that I'm forgetting right now. I've done solid axle swaps, high steer conversions, 1 ton running gear upgrades, mulitiple engine swaps and upgrades, and that's just one the 4x4 side of the house. I've also built a few hot rod Camaros (I've owned 7), an Elcamino, a few Mustangs (I've owned 6), an S10 pickup with a 400 small block, and a couple of Trans-ams... On the motorcycle side of the house I've built 6 sport bikes and 3 Harleys. And on the snow mobile side of the house I assisted in building 2 world champion hill climbers.

My expertise is electrical work though, I spent 10 years as a custom automotive electrical mechanic, I've got about 5 years as a profesional electronics tech, and I currently work as a goverment contractor assisting in rewiring US Navy ships and upgrading the old analog ships in converting them to more modern computer controlled systems.

Once again I'm sorry I got thin skinned, and I appreciate that you're willing to help me out
06-24-2011 10:34 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I wasn't calling you wrong, I was just pointing out that you rubbed my nose into something that you had already stepped into. As I posted earlier in this thread or another one I've done research into steering mods, and I've seen your posts on several forums and I respect your knowledge and oppinions. I've built well over 20 off road rigs for my own personal use over the last 15 years or so give or take... I'm not new to this, but I do value educated oppinions as long as they don't take on a high and mighty stance.
Well, if you can distinguish my wry sense of humor, more than a teeny bit of sarcasm and vast amounts of knowledge on certain subjects from sounding high and mighty, good luck. My dry matter of fact posting style has been very offputting to more than one person that thought he knew something.

Quote:
I realise that you're an expert in off road steering, and you and I agree on a lot of things like making something work well is more important than figures and geometry on paper...
I don't know that I'm an expert in offroad steering, but I am exceptionally experienced with the TJ and making it go offroad on about any size tire that works.

Quote:
I build my rigs for performing in the conditions that I wheel in. Right now that includes the sandy beaches of the Outer banks, a good friend of mines private property in Back Bay/Pungo area of Virginia Beach, and the local Jeep Klub I belong to that wheels in Crozet Va....

I don't have a large budget to build with, I understand that there are a lot better options available than what I can afford to pick from, but I'm trying to build the best that I can with the money I can afford to spend, and right now my credit cards are melting from the heat I've been putting on them lately....
Yeah, that's a tough place to be because well working durable steering isn't cheap even when you don't go mainstream with proven solutions and the proven solutions are anything but cheap.

Quote:
If you are willing to volunteer your knowledge and expertise free of charge to me when I'm having issues or I'm trying to decide between two competeing products than I will gladly listen, but if you are only going to chime in after I've made my choice and criticize me or belittle me for making the choice I made I'd appreciate it if you didn't post negative stuff in my thread.
I'll wait for the full berating and belittlement until you get to know me better. In the meantime, I'll be nicer.

Quote:
I might be a newb in the online forum dept, but I have over 15 years experience building custom vehicles.

Thanks.
I believe that puts you ahead of me in the time game. I've only been doing this since May of 99 when we got our first TJ.
06-24-2011 08:20 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Only fools stagnate in their knowledge and stick to ignorance through obstinance and stubborness. After I made those posts, I got the pleasure of spending some time discussing the cylinder assist with the owner of PSC in his motorhome at the KOH race. I mentioned "ram" assist and he gently corrected me and I've made it a point to no longer be ignorant.

I was wrong then and now try to be better and having used "ram" for so many years, I still find myself typing and correcting it, but at least I'm trying to learn.
I wasn't calling you wrong, I was just pointing out that you rubbed my nose into something that you had already stepped into. As I posted earlier in this thread or another one I've done research into steering mods, and I've seen your posts on several forums and I respect your knowledge and oppinions. I've built well over 20 off road rigs for my own personal use over the last 15 years or so give or take... I'm not new to this, but I do value educated oppinions as long as they don't take on a high and mighty stance.

I realise that you're an expert in off road steering, and you and I agree on a lot of things like making something work well is more important than figures and geometry on paper...

I build my rigs for performing in the conditions that I wheel in. Right now that includes the sandy beaches of the Outer banks, a good friend of mines private property in Back Bay/Pungo area of Virginia Beach, and the local Jeep Klub I belong to that wheels in Crozet Va....

I don't have a large budget to build with, I understand that there are a lot better options available than what I can afford to pick from, but I'm trying to build the best that I can with the money I can afford to spend, and right now my credit cards are melting from the heat I've been putting on them lately....

If you are willing to volunteer your knowledge and expertise free of charge to me when I'm having issues or I'm trying to decide between two competeing products than I will gladly listen, but if you are only going to chime in after I've made my choice and criticize me or belittle me for making the choice I made I'd appreciate it if you didn't post negative stuff in my thread.

I might be a newb in the online forum dept, but I have over 15 years experience building custom vehicles.

Thanks.
06-24-2011 06:35 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
For the record, it's funny that you poke fun at me for using a similar term that you used yourself in your "Everyone is a critic" post after building the Rock Yacht.

"Yep, you nailed it. I've bent one too many ram shafts by bumping the tie rod into rocks to not put make one and install it."

So now it's my turn to poke fun, for the record, a ram shaft is... "insert about a million off color jokes here"

But for real, you did a really nice job on that build and I'd love to know half of the stuff you've forgotten over the years

Only fools stagnate in their knowledge and stick to ignorance through obstinance and stubborness. After I made those posts, I got the pleasure of spending some time discussing the cylinder assist with the owner of PSC in his motorhome at the KOH race. I mentioned "ram" assist and he gently corrected me and I've made it a point to no longer be ignorant.

I was wrong then and now try to be better and having used "ram" for so many years, I still find myself typing and correcting it, but at least I'm trying to learn.
06-24-2011 05:26 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post

For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
For the record, it's funny that you poke fun at me for using a similar term that you used yourself in your "Everyone is a critic" post after building the Rock Yacht.

"Yep, you nailed it. I've bent one too many ram shafts by bumping the tie rod into rocks to not put make one and install it."

So now it's my turn to poke fun, for the record, a ram shaft is... "insert about a million off color jokes here"

But for real, you did a really nice job on that build and I'd love to know half of the stuff you've forgotten over the years
06-24-2011 04:11 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Yep, that's the last one I did where I attached the cylinder to the tie rod. Never again.
When you say that the assist attached to the tie rod causes the tie rod to roll, does that mean there will still be a dead spot in the steering?

Also in one of your previous posts you mentioned that you used washers that you sourced from mudflaps... did you cut them out of the rubber of the flap or did the flaps have 1/4 inch washers that you repurposed? After you installed one on each end how much of a dead spot was left? And did you try using one on the drag link to tie rod connection?

Thanks for your help.
06-24-2011 04:06 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
We will have a kit available within a week or two that will have all the parts needed to do this as a straight bolt in option. You won't be able to readily bolt in a normal assist cylinder. The cylinder needs to be customized to shorten it's overall compressed length so that it will fit between the stabilizer and draglink threaded adjuster when turned to the right.
I have already purchased the AGR kit. I was looking at my steering set up yesterday and there really isn't much room to mount the assist cylinder unless I want to start chopping up the track bar and stabilizer brackets and maybe even my sway bar mounts as well to free up some room...
06-24-2011 10:37 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc View Post
This one is the Rock Yacht isn't it ?
Yep, that's the last one I did where I attached the cylinder to the tie rod. Never again.
06-24-2011 10:36 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Thanks for the input, I had already thought about getting an aftermarket knuckle on one side to attach the steering assist to and I might just do it sometime as a future upgrade. My funds are completely depleted at the moment though. Right now I've got 2 options of how to mount the assist without having to do major fab work:

1st option, mount to where the original steering stabilizer mounts and the other end to the drag link.
We will have a kit available within a week or two that will have all the parts needed to do this as a straight bolt in option. You won't be able to readily bolt in a normal assist cylinder. The cylinder needs to be customized to shorten it's overall compressed length so that it will fit between the stabilizer and draglink threaded adjuster when turned to the right.

Quote:
2nd option, mount to axle tube or diff cover on one end and the other end to tie rod.

If I understand correctly the better option would be the stabilizer/drag link mounting?
You could go to the tie rod on the Inverted Y, but for the same reasons the stabilizer is to the draglink, you will run into interference issues if you try to attach it to the tie rod, not to mention you will roll the draglink.
06-24-2011 03:50 AM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
The best way is to take it directly to the steering knuckle, second best way is to the draglink if the components can handle the load. Worst is the tie rod.
Thanks for the input, I had already thought about getting an aftermarket knuckle on one side to attach the steering assist to and I might just do it sometime as a future upgrade. My funds are completely depleted at the moment though. Right now I've got 2 options of how to mount the assist without having to do major fab work:

1st option, mount to where the original steering stabilizer mounts and the other end to the drag link.

2nd option, mount to axle tube or diff cover on one end and the other end to tie rod.

If I understand correctly the better option would be the stabilizer/drag link mounting?
06-24-2011 03:16 AM
97wrangler-242
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat

squeal on some surfaces (parking lots) on tight, low speed turns that draw attention. Likely due to the ackerman on the design?"

My stock steering does this. What is it caused by?
06-24-2011 12:21 AM
DevilDogDoc This one is the Rock Yacht isn't it ?
06-23-2011 11:30 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Thanks for the information about mounting the "hydraulic steering assist" properly, I'm currently doing research as to the best way to mount it. I appreciate any insight you can provide.
The best way is to take it directly to the steering knuckle, second best way is to the draglink if the components can handle the load. Worst is the tie rod.

Quote:
Refering to one of your other posts about using spacers to correct the tie rod roll I took a closer look at the differences in the ball joint angles and I see what you were refering to about how the tie rod will need to move up and down on each end as the steering cycles. If I put a spacer on the end of the drag link where it ties into the passenger side TRE to prevent or limit some of the roll, will that still alow the necessary movement to prevent binding as the steering cycles without exessive tie rod roll?
Since you now understand what the SAI causes, now you can extrapolate that knowledge into understanding about what spacers do. The only way to stop the roll is to put a hard spacer between the body of the TRE and the top of the steering arm. But, now you see what will happen. Something has to give as the steering turns. Anything you put in there that gives will also let the tie rod roll or have movement. Any movement equals a dead spot on center.

Also, I build steering, lots of custom steering. You might have seen some of my work on the Rock Yacht that was on the cover of Crawl awhile back or in another issue where I set up the steering on the Yellow Unlimited that belongs to one of the Editors. As such, I help out my buddies from time to time with their steering. One of them has a TJ with the WJ conversion which has a knuckle to knuckle tie rod with the assist cylinder attached to it. One of the issues he's dealing with is the tie rod roll so he asked me to slow it down.

I used washers first in a 1/4" thickness that I cut from a resilient truck mudflap and then 2 of them under each tie rod end body. If I used 2 of them under each one, the steering was in such a bind that you could not turn it with the steering wheel with the engine off and the axle on jackstands. If I used one, there was still play and the tie rod rolled. If I used one on one side and two on the other, it was still binding.

I put one on each side, called it good because it was better and my buddy is happier but it is by no means fixed or ideal.
06-23-2011 03:45 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow_Fox View Post
Id like to kno how it turns out
I will update this post with part 2 after I have it installed, which will hopefully be this weekend depending on the weather.

And I will give an honest and straight forward oppinion of how I feel about it good bad or ugly.
06-23-2011 03:39 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.
I did extensive research on steering upgrades for over a month before I decided on the Rugged Ridge system. I don't expect it to stand up to a custom built set up, but for what I'm planning on using it for it will work and it was in my budget.

From everything I could find online there were people that were happy with some set ups and unhappy with others, there are positive and negatives to every steering solution out there. The bullet proof perfect set up is very possible to create, at a very steep price, but all of the rest, that are bolt on or really close to bolt on, will have some draw backs one way or the other.

Here are some quotes from various forums that I found with a quick search online. I'm not going to post who said each quote because I'm not sure about internet copyright law and I copy pasted their oppinions but I didn't want to drag them into anything. So if you read this and I'm using a quote that you would like removed please PM me and I'll remove it imediately.


ORO U-Turn:
"I've run the ORO U-Turn for about a year now. To do over, with the price, I think I'd go Currie HD.

The ORO U-Turn was not hard to setup. It seems very strong. They had some problems with premature tie rod end wear on the earlier drag links but seem to have mitigated it with a redesign. I have not experienced the problem as I traded my generation 2 drag link for the new generation 3 prior to install. The ORO service, I experienced, after the sale to upgrade the drag link was great. I spent a lot of time getting the steering "just right" and the alignment "dead on" and do not run a steering stabilizer now with the kit. The Jeep tracks very well. I do get some
tire squeal on some surfaces (parking lots) on tight, low speed turns that draw attention. Likely due to the ackerman on the design?"
"I recently replaced my ORO with a Currie and Iím much happier. The ORO is a good kit but it does take some work to get it dialed in correctly. My ORO was one of the first Gen III kits so I never had any issues with the draglink. The Currie is just as strong as the ORO. I also noticed when I installed the ORO I lost some of my turning radius. After switching to the Currie I gained all of it back. The Currie is hard to beat for the money."
"I've always answered up to this question as being 50/50 between the ORO and Currie. I actually have the ORO set up. I really like the feel of the
crossover steering and the fact that the TRE's it uses are easy to get your hands on and reasonably priced. Having said that, about 50% of the time I wish I would have went with Currie because it installs as a direct replacement, meaning my old steering linkages could be left at camp as a spare. I also would have flipped the driver's side TRE on top of the knuckle and gotten a good bit more ground clearance. The real reason I didn't go with Currie is the proprietary TREs they use, which are pricey and only made by them; there's no picking one up at Napa. I know mrblaine has a different outlook on the reasoning of passing on the Currie because of the TREs, and it is ok and very valid, I just choose not to carry two $50 TREs with me when I can easily get what I need at Napa for $25 if I should ever break one."
 
"Dont get it, I ran this on my jeep for about 6 months and had serious problems with death wobble. I ended up putting the stock system back on to stop the death wobble. I read somewhere that directly connecting the tires to one another instead of the Y scissor style stock steering is what was causing the problems. The Y style allows the tires to flex or pull slightly away from one another when going over bumps, directly connecting them does not and throws off the rotational mass by pulling both tires and hence starting death wobble.

I ended up just giving it away cause i didnt feel right selling it knowing the problems i had with it. In hindsight i should have looked into getting a refund but i deployed shortly after i took it off and figured it had been too much time so seek a refund by the time I returned

I have since gone with the Currie Correctlynk steering and have had zero death wobble. Its a very stought unit, the pictures dont do it justice. I havent compared measurements but it looks just as thick as the ORO"
Currie Currectlync:
 
"I run the Currie setup, too. While it is nice and beefy, it's definately not the end-all, be-all solution. I'm running around 7" of lift, and the drag link/tie rod junction joint hits the sway bar mount on the passengers side when turning to the right, and it's damned near impossible to keep an alignment on it. Also, since it keeps with the stock design, toe changes quite a bit when the suspension flexes due to the extreme angle of the drag link.

One of these days I'm going to be sick enough of it to get off my ass and build my own traditional inverted "T" steering using the Chevy 1/2 ton TRE's & DOM tubing. Until then, I'm dealing with it."
 
"First of all I just want to make it clear that I am not bashing Currie at all, I love their products.
However, I intalled their Currectlync a few months back and I recently started noticing some drivabilty problems. When I investigated a little I noticed that the tie-rod end up on the pitman arm has noticable up and down movement within the socket.
It's disturbing because I haven't been wheelin with it yet and the tie-rod end is obviously shot.
The only thing that I have done was flex it out to check my bumpstop lengths.
What I'm thinking is that the oversized tie-rod end doesn't have as much movement as the smaller unit, and when I flexed the suspension out it maxed out the
travel on the tie-rod and tried to pull the ball out of the socket and now it is loose."
"Wow. I noticed this on mine too. I got my system last week and only has 50 miles or so on it. Guess I'll call Currie and see whats up."
"i did the currie set up about 6 yrs ago and havent looked back since!"

"...Oh, BTW in one of the threads someone asked if anyone had had any problems with the Currie set up. I bent mine first trip out in my trail rig. When I called Currie all they had to say was "that shouldn't have happened" and offered no further support. So I'm not a fan of Currie, mostly because of of their "customer no-service" in this instance. "
"I'm with you on this one. I had a TRE go bad after less than 5k miles and maybe 6 relatively mild wheeling trips. I called Currie and they said I probably put too much grease in there and offered to sell me a replacement for $50. "
 
 
 
 
 
Rugged Ridge:
 
"I'm running the RR steering, no problems at all, one year so far."
This person replaced his Currie set up with a Rugged Ridge set up and was happy with it.
http://www.myxj.net/blog/173
 
"Well after testing the steering not on just 1 outing but 2 I have to say it holds it own when it comes to strength on the rocks and tight trails. The steering felt very positive and I had a peice of mine that I got some thick tubing under there thats not going to bend as easy as the stock one. I also noticed my turning radius seems to be a little tighter than before. In those tight canyon washes at Truckheaven the steering and my powersteering pump got a work out if it was going to fail it would probably be there. But there are are a few small issues that do need to be addressed : First off there is a small bit of roll on the tierod when turning left too right but hardly noticeable when on the road. It has about the same as stock steering setup so it really not an issue. I did put some of those poly spacers that tightened it up a bit. When the suspension is colapsed and extended there is feedback in the wheel to correct. I would say it would get better if I used a drop pitman arm but I really rather stick with the stock length one. The tierod did barely touch my front diff cover but it wont be any kind of problem I am sure. Overall its a better than stock solution for alot less money than most setups out there and you really cant go wrong buying this set up."
 
"I figure I will give my insight on the Rugged Ridge steering. I had it on my zj at 4.5 inches for about 4 months with no drop pitman arm and it ate up the boot on at the pitman arm. I also had really bad tie rod roll so I got the JCR spacers. I ended up removing it and selling it and replacing it with currie set up."
"its a decent setup for the cost, the only complaint i have about mine is the tie rod rolls over when steering from side to side giving u a big dead spot in the steering wheel, and just in case anyone wants to comment yes mine is installed correctly and everything is tight as a virgins a$$ "
06-23-2011 03:27 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Just like the draglink causing tie rod roll when it mounts to the tie rod, the steering cylinder will have the same issue. The only spot it will be neutral and push on the tie rod straight is when the wheels point straight ahead.

Any other angle and due to the SAI, the ram will point upwards or downward and because the tabs on the clamp mount the end of the ram slightly inboard, you get the same tie rod roll to the limit of travel the TRE's have. Only now you are wasting travel in the steering ram.

There are very few folks that set steering assist cylinders up correctly and there are about a million examples of how to do it poorly.

If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.

For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
Thanks for the information about mounting the "hydraulic steering assist" properly, I'm currently doing research as to the best way to mount it. I appreciate any insight you can provide.

Refering to one of your other posts about using spacers to correct the tie rod roll I took a closer look at the differences in the ball joint angles and I see what you were refering to about how the tie rod will need to move up and down on each end as the steering cycles. If I put a spacer on the end of the drag link where it ties into the passenger side TRE to prevent or limit some of the roll, will that still alow the necessary movement to prevent binding as the steering cycles without exessive tie rod roll?
06-23-2011 10:32 AM
Yellow_Fox Id like to kno how it turns out
06-23-2011 09:34 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I don't have time for a lengthy reply right now, but I did a lot of research before I made my purchase. I wasn't pointing at any one particular set up when I said I wanted something I could get parts for locally, Currie isn't the only set up that uses custom parts. I appreciate the input about the ball joint angles and how much up and down swing the tie rod goes through in it's side to side travel. I'm curious as to the reason I shouldn't mount the ram to one end of the tie rod, since that's how I did plan on using it. Thanks for the input.
Just like the draglink causing tie rod roll when it mounts to the tie rod, the steering cylinder will have the same issue. The only spot it will be neutral and push on the tie rod straight is when the wheels point straight ahead.

Any other angle and due to the SAI, the ram will point upwards or downward and because the tabs on the clamp mount the end of the ram slightly inboard, you get the same tie rod roll to the limit of travel the TRE's have. Only now you are wasting travel in the steering ram.

There are very few folks that set steering assist cylinders up correctly and there are about a million examples of how to do it poorly.

If your reseach on mounting steering cylinders is anything like your research on steering systems, you may find yourself with something less than satisfactory.

For the record, ram assist is a term for a Dodge pick-up on a tow truck, or maybe a wheelchair for a male goat.
06-23-2011 03:55 AM
necromancer_tat I don't have time for a lengthy reply right now, but I did a lot of research before I made my purchase. I wasn't pointing at any one particular set up when I said I wanted something I could get parts for locally, Currie isn't the only set up that uses custom parts. I appreciate the input about the ball joint angles and how much up and down swing the tie rod goes through in it's side to side travel. I'm curious as to the reason I shouldn't mount the ram to one end of the tie rod, since that's how I did plan on using it. Thanks for the input.
06-22-2011 10:56 PM
DevilDogDoc All well said Blaine, just not what he wanted to hear I think. People wonder what the difference is between a $300 kit and a $100 kit. Well one works and the other doesn't plain and simple.
06-22-2011 10:27 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Did you check for play in the steering box yet? It is adjustable.

May help with all the play you are getting.
That's a fair bit of internet lore that shouldn't be repeated. The jam nut and adjuster on top of the steering gear is for setting the lash on the sector gear and is not for removing play in the steering. The play comes from stuff that is worn and not from excessive gear lash.

If you tighten up the lash, all you are doing is prolonging the inevitable and that's a new steering gear or rebuild.
06-22-2011 10:23 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I read plenty of reviews, and no matter which steering system I tried to find reviews on it was always the same, half of the people loving it and praising it, and half of the people hating it and condeming it. I checkout reviews for Curries Currectlync, the Rugged ridge system, the Crown set up, the Rock Krawler set up, Bullet proof steering, the ORO u-turn set up, and on and on and on...
It's unfortunate that that there are some folks that comment on Currie that don't own it. It is very simply the best bang for the buck you can purchase and install with simple hand tools.

I'd love to see any of the reviews you found for the Currie that were unfavorable.

Quote:
With every set up there were lovers and haters, it made it super hard to make a choice... So ultimately I chose a set up that: 1. Uses parts I can get at a local auto parts store in case I brake something,
I hear that quite often about the Currie. It seems to bother some folks that they use TRE's that are proprietary. I could see anyone being bothered that did not carry a single spare part for their rig, but we all do or should, so I always wonder what's different about the Currie TRE's?

If you cut a sidewall, are you going to drive back to the parts store and get a spare tire or plug kit?


That's also generally a moot point anyhow. I've been wheeling with, using, installing, and been around folks on the trail with the Currie stuff since the first day it was released for sale many many years ago.

I could count easily 50+ sets I have personal continual contact with over the years and the vast majority of it is in or has been in use in JV on 35's.

In that time with that quantity, I've seen 1 broken draglink from the owner doing something very stupid that was replaced under warranty and a couple of worn TRE's that have also been partially or fully replaced by Currie.

The set on my wife's rig in now well over 50,000 miles on 35's and is as tight today as the day I put it on and anytime I let folks drive it, they always comment on how tight and responsive the steering is.

Quote:
2. Is a lot stronger than stock but still bolts up in the stock location without having to drill out my knuckles. 3. I was aware of the "dead spot" that is supposed to accompany an inverted "T" style steering set up, and I also found out through a little research online that 2 or 3 washers, or a poly spacer of correct thickness on the TRE's that attach the knuckles and or on the axle end of the drag link will eliminate the "dead spot"
You should study up some on SAI or Steering Axis Inclination and what it does. SAI means that because the upper balljoint is inboard of the lower, as you cycle the steering from lock to lock, one steering arm rises and the other lowers. That creates a huge amount of misalignment between the two sides.

Being involved in many steering conversations, I checked the difference the other day just to see how much it was. With the wheels straight ahead, I clamped a piece of steel angle to the top of one of the steering arms with the tie rod removed. Then I turn the steering knuckle to full lock and the end of the angle dropped 4" at the other side. That means there is a very large disparity in how parallel the tops of the steering arms are to each other when you cycle the steering which means anything you trap under the bodies of the TRE's to kill the dead spot can not be solid or you will tear something up.


Quote:
4. I plan on, and already have on order the AGR Rock Ram system that I will also be adding to my Jeep and reviewing at a later date.
A bit of advice when it comes to cylinder assist. Avoid the temptation to connect one end of it to the tie rod. Of all the places possible to connect, that is the least desireable from a performance standpoint.

Quote:
My goal with each review that I post, is to try to give other people who might be looking for the same replacement parts that I was, some better information to make their decision than what was available to me when I had to make mine.
Hopefully this helps.
06-22-2011 08:45 PM
Shelby427 Did you check for play in the steering box yet? It is adjustable.

May help with all the play you are getting.
06-22-2011 05:06 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vector6 View Post
very nice, great photos... i have the same product in the corner of my garage.. i ran it for about 3 weeks and couldn't stand the sloppy steering any longer and put my stock stuff back on.. it does make an interesting conversation piece though.
Thanks for the input, I've heard about the sloppy steering issue. Right now I already have about 6 inches of "dead spot" at the steering wheel with the factory set up.

After I install the system "as shipped" I will post another review and determine if I get more slop, or less, than a worn out factory setup. And I also plan on doing both the washer mod to the steering, and the plastic spacer mod to it as well, and I'll post my thoughts on both mods and weather they really make a difference or not.

Ultimately I'm going to be adding the AGR Rock Ram system a piece at a time starting with the steering box, and I'll document what each piece does to help improve an old worn out (97) Jeep TJ steering set up.
06-22-2011 05:00 PM
necromancer_tat I read plenty of reviews, and no matter which steering system I tried to find reviews on it was always the same, half of the people loving it and praising it, and half of the people hating it and condeming it. I checkout reviews for Curries Currectlync, the Rugged ridge system, the Crown set up, the Rock Krawler set up, Bullet proof steering, the ORO u-turn set up, and on and on and on...

With every set up there were lovers and haters, it made it super hard to make a choice... So ultimately I chose a set up that: 1. Uses parts I can get at a local auto parts store in case I brake something, 2. Is a lot stronger than stock but still bolts up in the stock location without having to drill out my knuckles. 3. I was aware of the "dead spot" that is supposed to accompany an inverted "T" style steering set up, and I also found out through a little research online that 2 or 3 washers, or a poly spacer of correct thickness on the TRE's that attach the knuckles and or on the axle end of the drag link will eliminate the "dead spot" 4. I plan on, and already have on order the AGR Rock Ram system that I will also be adding to my Jeep and reviewing at a later date.

My goal with each review that I post, is to try to give other people who might be looking for the same replacement parts that I was, some better information to make their decision than what was available to me when I had to make mine.
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