|07-19-2013 01:52 PM|
|LameStory||Picked up a spare the other day because of this thread. But fair warning, either prices have gone up or I got robbed. Mine was nearly $4.00. Still not bad, though, for the peace of mind.|
|07-19-2013 01:33 PM|
|06-23-2013 05:25 PM|
|Jbyrder||This happened to me today on the trails. Luckily one of the guys I was with had already heard about this happening. Ill be replacing it hopefully next weekend|
|06-14-2013 09:01 PM|
You want to clutch (stick shift) or put the trans in neutral before shifting into, or out of, 4-low. The user manual suggest going 2 mph. I like to stop and put it in. If it doesn't slide in I move forward a foot and try again.
It will be the same with the 2013. If you broke it it wouldn't shift into a different mode (2wd, 4hi, 4low). You could tell on the instrument panel and it would behave like the first post.
FROM THE USER MANUAL
2H to 4H or 4H to 2H
Shifting between 2H and 4H can be made with the vehicle stopped or in motion. With the vehicle in motion, the transfer case will engage/disengage faster if you momentarily release the accelerator pedal after complet- ing the shift. Apply a constant force when shifting the transfer case lever.
With the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift an automatic transmission into NEUTRAL (N), or press the clutch pedal on a manual transmission. While the vehicle is coasting at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h), shift the transfer case lever firmly to the desired position. Do not pause with the transfer case in N (Neutral). Once the shift is completed, place the automatic transmission into DRIVE or release the clutch pedal on a manual transmis- sion.
NOTE: Shifting into or out of 4L is possible with the vehicle completely stopped; however, difficulty may oc- cur due to the mating teeth not being properly aligned. Several attempts may be required for clutch teeth align- ment and shift completion to occur. The preferred method is with the vehicle rolling at 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h). Avoid attempting to engage or disengage 4L with the vehicle moving faster than 2 to 3 mph (3 to 5 km/h).
Failure to engage a position completely can cause transfer case damage or loss of power and vehicle control. You could have a collision. Do not drive the vehicle unless the transfer case is fully engaged
|06-14-2013 06:54 PM|
|en1ma||This still applies to 2013 jku I'm assuming? I was futzing around with the 4wd when I bought my jku the other day and didn't understand the proper procedure for shifting. I went into 4wd then it felt stuck when I tried to move it back into 2h. Didn't want to move. Eventually it did when I went from park to drive but was hoping I didn't do anything wrong. How do I know if I broke this bushing? I'll go order a few... If my shifter is solid and doesn't want to move easily I'm ok?|
|06-14-2013 04:22 PM|
I'm giving this a sticky vote.
|09-03-2011 07:18 AM|
$120 was highway robbery. It sounds like the reason they won't file it under warranty is they known Chrysler won't pay them $120 for this work.
|09-03-2011 06:29 AM|
|jeepkingtn||The are exact same part.|
|09-02-2011 03:55 PM|
|09-01-2011 10:19 PM|
|09-01-2011 08:12 PM|
|09-01-2011 07:43 AM|
|demarpaint||In order to change that bushing you have to be under the vehicle? You can't remove the cover from inside the vehicle and do it? Thanks!|
|09-01-2011 02:36 AM|
Alright, so, assuming that the bushing for the upper connection connecting the shifter to the rod, is the same as the lower connection to the transfer case, then the problem is fixed. i just through one of those bushings on there as hard as I could. really wish it was more mechanical rather than a little piece of plastic...
we'll see how she works. just used my last bushing. need to go get a few more!
haha thanks JK'N... i am sure i will have more questions later.
|09-01-2011 01:38 AM|
|09-01-2011 01:27 AM|
Alrigh I have an issue with this too. I figured out the problem with the plastic bushing underneath the center console that connects the shifter to the rod and replaced it.
NOW i am having a simliar issue. Shifter is loose. Bushing is INTACT. rod is moving when actuated but still... nothing is happening and is completely loose.
What do i gotta do? do i need to access another bushing somewhere? some kind of linkage? if so... how do i get to it? Thanks FELLAS!
|07-06-2011 09:02 PM|
After the embarrassing ride home at the end of a yella strap last weekend from the 4x4 trails I was at, I am going to change that little bushing once a year whether it needs it or not. Changing it was a breeze in the driveway; in a mud hole, not so much.
There was remnants of the old bushing on the pin and the flange of it was still there. It looked more deteriorated from the elements being underneath the truck than abuse. It looks and feels like it is made of nylon and a little experience I have with nylon tells me it won't hold up too long in that environment.
I just got my Jeep a month ago so I donít' know how many may have been changed. I suspect this is the first time. The one I put in yesterday might last three years but based on a reminder in my Outlook it only has 364 more days to go.
BTW, GREAT topic here. This is the one that got me to sign up. I should have looked this up on my BlackBerry while I was waiting on that yella strap. That was bad...
|07-03-2011 06:43 PM|
|07-03-2011 11:22 AM|
|jeepkingtn||I loosened the center console and slide the cable back in place. My guess is if your 4WD shifter is totally loose and will slide back and forth it is the top bushing and if you shift the lever and the shifter still goes into the notches somewhat it is the lower bushing. When I bought it the bottom bushing was gone. Thanks again.|
|07-03-2011 10:31 AM|
|jeepkingtn||Mine went out when I tried shifting into 4WD and I am stuck in 4WDH. Is there a way to get it back into 2WD until I can get to a dealer and get the bushing? My shifter is totally loose and slides back and forth. Thanks!|
|06-23-2011 09:26 PM|
|Off Road King||ya, that's why I just went ahead, found where it was, and got a few extras|
|06-23-2011 11:17 AM|
|ppzi||Mine went last week and the dealer charged me $120 to replace it and said that it broke because I was offroad. I'm working on trying to get get corporate to call the dealer and cover it under warranty.|
|06-22-2011 07:48 PM|
|Off Road King||Ya, I finally found it... And I have two extras in the glove box now|
|06-22-2011 10:51 AM|
|jk'n||I think you need a drop light in the right place and if you peer in from the right direction you will see it. Looking at it from directly below the trans-axle blocks the view, any further in towards the center-line of the jeep and the skid plate blocks the view. You can barely see it looking in between the exhaust pipe and the tans-axle.|
|06-22-2011 09:56 AM|
|Off Road King||
|06-22-2011 07:55 AM|
|06-22-2011 07:45 AM|
|06-22-2011 07:40 AM|
|06-22-2011 07:37 AM|
My son's YJ uses a mechanical linkage and that is the manly man solution.
|06-22-2011 07:34 AM|
|06-22-2011 07:03 AM|
***** A WARNING TO ALL JK OWNERS 07 TO BRAND NEW WHO WHEEL *******
***** MANUAL TRANSMISSION OR AUTOMATIC....IT DOESN'T MATTER ********
This little sixty cent bushing of death will break at the most in-opportune time when you are out in the middle of no-where. God help you if you don't carry a spare......or five in the glove box.
When I broke mine, I was accused of man handling my stick......
Well since then I've been handling it like a girly-man....
My stick has been much better since.....
It hasn't eaten any additional bushings.....
But I think it is just a poor system and it is just a matter of time before I break another bushing.
If you wheel with a club and keep extras in the box for when your stick gets bent out of shape and goes loose....think of the joy you will experience when you know you have a spare in the box! Now if someone else manhandles their stick....think of the fun you will have when you produce one of those bushings waaaaaay out in the woods. I relish the thought.
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