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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-21-2011 01:59 PM
xloudnproud http://http://s1213.photobucket.com/...urrent=001.jpg
08-19-2011 06:29 PM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud
Yeah its 4.0 and a fairly fresh one at that... air intake, exhaust, 33" tires, 6" lift, brand new 4.56 gears, 5 speed gps and speedo read at 86 mph im screaming alot about 3700 rpm... I could prolly hit low 90's but Im sure I would be red lining
Cool. Congrats man. PleAse if your 6inch on 33's can you take a pic. I wana go up to a 6inch fr 35's but my 33's are fresh soo i wana lift and wait for them to expire.
08-19-2011 05:30 PM
xloudnproud Yeah its 4.0 and a fairly fresh one at that... air intake, exhaust, 33" tires, 6" lift, brand new 4.56 gears, 5 speed gps and speedo read at 86 mph im screaming alot about 3700 rpm... I could prolly hit low 90's but Im sure I would be red lining
08-19-2011 04:27 AM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud
Got my new speedo gear installed so now I actually know what speed Im going top speed is 86 mph with 4.56 and 33" and she is screamin too... runs great with new gears just gotta get rear end to stop dripping since I put new diff cover on now took off gasket and used high temp diff silicone hoping that would do trick but still drips...either gonna buy one of those lube lock gaskets or go back to oem cover.
86? Your a 4 liter? 5spd? Shouldnt you be able you go faster?
08-18-2011 11:52 PM
xloudnproud Got my new speedo gear installed so now I actually know what speed Im going top speed is 86 mph with 4.56 and 33" and she is screamin too... runs great with new gears just gotta get rear end to stop dripping since I put new diff cover on now took off gasket and used high temp diff silicone hoping that would do trick but still drips...either gonna buy one of those lube lock gaskets or go back to oem cover.
08-15-2011 12:07 AM
xloudnproud HEY WIZ I got a Aussie for sale cheap its one I bought for my install but never used.
08-14-2011 06:18 AM
wiz i will be doing an aussie up front and detroit tru track in the rear. tru track and gears are already here just need to get the aussie.
08-13-2011 07:20 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yep. And where my trails are concerned, if I don't need to be in 4Lo, I usually run in 2wd. Seldom do I need or use 4Hi on a trail until it gets tough enough to shift into 4Lo. For me, 4Hi is mostly a paved road thing for use when the roads are covered in snow or mud. I only use 4Hi offroad when the roads are deep sand or if I have to get through a stretch of mud.
I'll be sure and follow that advice! Thanks! My rubi is bone stock, and I was wheeling with guys that all had 35's, I was just scrambling trying to keep up! lol
08-13-2011 07:02 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
Thanks for the advice! Does that include the Rubi 4:1 case as well?
Yep. And where my trails are concerned, if I don't need to be in 4Lo, I usually run in 2wd. Seldom do I need or use 4Hi on a trail until it gets tough enough to shift into 4Lo. For me, 4Hi is mostly a paved road thing for use when the roads are covered in snow or mud. I only use 4Hi offroad when the roads are deep sand or if I have to get through a stretch of mud.
08-13-2011 07:00 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Don't do that. The planetary gears inside the transfer case were absolutely screaming when you did that, your speeds need to be held down when you're in 4Lo. It's not a good idea to shift past 2nd gear when you're in 4Lo due to the rpms the plantetary gears inside the t-case would be subjected to.
Thanks for the advice! Does that include the Rubi 4:1 case as well? I usually run in 3rd gear when in 4 low in my Rubi if I'm not trying to cross an obstical. Otherwise everyone else pulls off and leaves me. If I'm hurting it by doing that I'll take the time to switch back to 4 high.
08-13-2011 02:14 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud View Post
i put it in 4low and was redlining in 5th at about 17mph lol...
Don't do that. The planetary gears inside the transfer case were absolutely screaming when you did that, your speeds need to be held down when you're in 4Lo. It's not a good idea to shift past 2nd gear when you're in 4Lo due to the rpms the plantetary gears inside the t-case would be subjected to.
08-13-2011 02:10 PM
xloudnproud Day 2 of driving on regear have not done any off roading but i put it in 4low and was redlining in 5th at about 17mph lol... and driving down the highway unsure what my actual speed was need to re install my gps but running fairly high rpm in 5th est 75 mph gears are fairly loud other than that glad to have my Jeep back
08-13-2011 07:53 AM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkproximity View Post
I've seen it work before..

With a clutch type limited slip.. in order to even get power in the first place to the tires they have to overcome the clutch in the differential.. in otherwords they must be providing resistance to engage the clutch which a tire with traction will do. Now applying enough brake pressure to allow the clutch to engage but still let the wheel spin and both tires will move regardless of traction..

However in the scenario you just described (which as you described it sounds to me like you're referring to an open differential) if one tire has no traction at all and the other has 100% traction, a limited slip diff is designed to only send power to the tire with traction anyway so braking will not be beneficial as the tire with traction is already getting all the power and the one without is getting none.

I think the braking trick works best when both tires are continually losing traction enough that you want both to keep spinning so when they regain traction they will both have equal momentum..

Hope this makes more sense
You're correct, I was describing an open carrier. I'm thinking a clutch style limited slip would behave the same way though. I think a locker is the best way to go myself, if you're going to do any wheeling where a tire might come up off the ground. I have no idea which one is the best though, lol
08-12-2011 11:35 PM
darkproximity
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat

It's never once gotten me unstuck either, but I hear it repeated over and over again, and nobody ever challanges it... I'm not a differential gear expert, but I've got a pretty good grasp on mechanics, pysics, and math, and to me it just doesn't add up unless there's another equasion I'm not seeing that factors into it somehow. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, I just don't see how it's possible to add equal resistance to both tires, and all of a sudden have less resistance to movement on the tire that initially had the most resistance to movement in the first place.
I've seen it work before..

With a clutch type limited slip.. in order to even get power in the first place to the tires they have to overcome the clutch in the differential.. in otherwords they must be providing resistance to engage the clutch which a tire with traction will do. Now applying enough brake pressure to allow the clutch to engage but still let the wheel spin and both tires will move regardless of traction..

However in the scenario you just described (which as you described it sounds to me like you're referring to an open differential) if one tire has no traction at all and the other has 100% traction, a limited slip diff is designed to only send power to the tire with traction anyway so braking will not be beneficial as the tire with traction is already getting all the power and the one without is getting none.

I think the braking trick works best when both tires are continually losing traction enough that you want both to keep spinning so when they regain traction they will both have equal momentum..

Hope this makes more sense
08-12-2011 10:48 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud View Post
you are right my friend the brake when applied deal is a myth that doesnt work...ive tried all it does it slow to spinning tire
It's never once gotten me unstuck either, but I hear it repeated over and over again, and nobody ever challanges it... I'm not a differential gear expert, but I've got a pretty good grasp on mechanics, pysics, and math, and to me it just doesn't add up unless there's another equasion I'm not seeing that factors into it somehow. I'm not saying anyone is wrong, I just don't see how it's possible to add equal resistance to both tires, and all of a sudden have less resistance to movement on the tire that initially had the most resistance to movement in the first place.
08-12-2011 10:22 PM
xloudnproud you are right my friend the brake when applied deal is a myth that doesnt work...ive tried all it does it slow to spinning tire
08-12-2011 08:40 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkproximity View Post
LSD can act as a locker with a little brake pressure.. it provides power to the tire with traction.. if you apply a little brake pressure it will fool the lsd in a sense by making it think both tires have traction thus allowing both to spin regardless
I keep hearing this repeated over and over, and I'm sorry, but it doesn't make much sense to me.

You've got one wheel on the ground with 100% traction, and one wheel in the air with 0% traction, you apply the brakes, factory set up to provide equal force to both tires.... now you have one tire with 100% traction, plus lets say 50% less force being applied to it because the brakes are reducing the amount of engine force to that tire, and you've got 1 tire in the air that didn't have any traction at all to start with, and it also has 50% less force being applied, because the brakes are also reducing the force applied to that tire as well.

In my head I tend to picture things mathmatically, so here goes:

Tire on ground 100% traction, tire in air 0% traction, the difference is 100% so the tire in the air will just spin and the tire on the ground will go nowehere...

Tire on ground plus 50% from applied braking force = 150%.... Tire in air, plus 50% from applied braking force = 50%... the difference is once again 100% between the same 2 tires in the same I'm stuck and can't move situation.

In my minds eye, I can't see applying the brakes to produce forward movement in a stuck situation anny differently than just reducing your throttle by the same amount as you would've applied the brake pedal.

Unless you have some way of ONLY applying the brake to the tire that is up in the air, then you won't be able to direct your engine torque to the tire that is on the ground that has all the traction.

If you think I'm wrong about this then please take the time to explain it to me.
08-12-2011 05:51 PM
xloudnproud Regear is complete and Jeep is rolling the only thing is the locker was not installed by the mechanic because he strongly strongly felt it was a very bad idea going in a daily driver the amount of front steering problems I would have had. The Jeep drives very good and speedo is way off gonna have to get that recalibrated. Other than that got a good deal on labor and back driving my Jeep will well noticed low end power.
07-20-2011 12:37 AM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud
Should have all parts together for regear this, Friday Nitro gears 4.56 new front and back, New carriers front and back, new spider gears for rear, New Spartan Locker for front, Front and rear master install kits, and please no one bash me but new chrome front and rear diff covers... Im excited to feel this difference in driveablilty
Good luck and tell us how it went.
07-19-2011 11:42 PM
xloudnproud Should have all parts together for regear this, Friday Nitro gears 4.56 new front and back, New carriers front and back, new spider gears for rear, New Spartan Locker for front, Front and rear master install kits, and please no one bash me but new chrome front and rear diff covers... Im excited to feel this difference in driveablilty
07-14-2011 01:13 AM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud
Yeah if you are going bigger than 3.92 you have to get new carriers front and rear... i got mine both on ebay for $65 a piece brand new. make sure they say for 3.92 and higher guys wouldnt want to buy same thing you already have
Cool good info. Soo i think am gonna go an aussie auto up front and leave the lsd in the rear. Is there aftermarket clutch plate s for the lsd? Something more heavy duty?
07-13-2011 09:16 PM
xloudnproud Yeah if you are going bigger than 3.92 you have to get new carriers front and rear... i got mine both on ebay for $65 a piece brand new. make sure they say for 3.92 and higher guys wouldnt want to buy same thing you already have
07-13-2011 09:08 AM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by xloudnproud
Best all done at one time and plus with mine I am having to change carriers cause the gear ration break is 3.92 and down so since I have the stock 3.73 I had to by new carrier to hold 4.56
I gues me too am 3.73 too. Front has the same concept? I will need new carrier up front?
07-13-2011 07:36 AM
xloudnproud Best all done at one time and plus with mine I am having to change carriers cause the gear ration break is 3.92 and down so since I have the stock 3.73 I had to by new carrier to hold 4.56
07-13-2011 01:47 AM
TJ-Q8 A week? My jeep is parked 2 months now. First the bent head and i was waiting for my sye kit to arrove because i have too much vibration. And for the cable locker its too pricey. I would rather get the true trac for $600. If i regear now can i later just change the carrier and add a locker?
07-12-2011 11:21 PM
xloudnproud I am tracking my regear parts every day even though they said delivery date is 15th ... I cant wait to have this power back lol plus my Jeep is just getting moved from one tree to parked under the next in my yard for the past week untill I put in shop
07-12-2011 05:36 PM
jrussblues Cable connects from the driver to the diff. It mechanically actuates the locker via a special rear diff cover. Pricey but no delay and rock solid.
07-12-2011 04:41 PM
darkproximity Not 100 percent sure on how they work exactly
07-12-2011 03:29 PM
TJ-Q8
Quote:
Originally Posted by darkproximity
Ox lockers are cable actuated typically.. they are around 7 to 800usd and some companies are offering a free heavy duty diff cover with purchase.. I have an ox diff cover and man is it thick lol
Nice but they are a bit pricey. Cable? I know there is electric and air but cable? How do they work?
07-12-2011 03:09 PM
darkproximity Ox lockers are cable actuated typically.. they are around 7 to 800usd and some companies are offering a free heavy duty diff cover with purchase.. I have an ox diff cover and man is it thick lol
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