|08-24-2011 02:44 AM|
|alamike||I did my wiring with the lightforce harness simply because it came with everything I needed; a relay, amp, all that stuff. Even with the forum help I could never figure out how to wire it into my factory switch, but I wired it to the point where they would come on when I switch on my brights. I ended up at a local shop and let them wire it into my factory switch for $30. It turned out really well. It has a really clean look and I really like being able to use them without my brights.|
|08-24-2011 01:49 AM|
|08-23-2011 11:29 PM|
|Shelby427||Simple on yours. Use the power feed on the factory lamp wiring to trigger a relay to power the high watt lamps.|
|08-23-2011 07:18 PM|
|nu arty boy||How did this come out? I am in a similar situation as I got a set of Striker 170s that are going to replace the factory fog lights. I want them running to the factory on/off switch. I was thinking of just using the factory wiring but after realizing that these are 100w lights (vs 55w of the factory lights) I left it alone.|
|07-11-2011 09:23 PM|
|alamike||Thanks Shelby. I'm gonna go try to finish it up now. I'll let you know how it goes.|
|07-11-2011 02:57 PM|
If you wish an indicator lamp also, then it would be wired like this.
I don't care for how they have you wire up the harness via the directions. If something would happen on the wire to the high beams, it could blow out the fuse for the high beams.
This way both your main power and switch power(s) are fused so that if something happens to any of the three wires that have power going to the relay, or the two coming out to the lamps, a fuse will blow for them and you'll still have headlamps.
|07-11-2011 02:27 PM|
OK, pretty simple actually. Pop the relay off, it should have each of the terminals marked with a number, as follows.
#30 is the connection for fused battery power to run the lamps.
#85 is the ground connection for the relay.
#86 is the trigger connection, needs a 12 volt power to fire up the relay.
#87 is the output connection, this is what feeds your lamps power.
Simplest and safest is a with a simple two pole switch, on/off.
Here's how you would wire it.
Terminals # 30 and #86 get powered from a fused connection to the battery.
Terminal # 87 gets wired to the hot lead for your lights.
Terminal #85 gets connected to your switch. The other end of the switch is run to a ground.
And of course you have to hook up the grounds for the lamps.
In this way of doing it, you will not need to run power wires through the dash.
You use the switch to apply a ground to the relay to turn it on/off, which in turn turns your lights on/off.
Take a look here on some diagrams of wiring up the relay in various configurations.
Some as I explained above, and some doing it a different way, and even some that allow for an on indicator lamp, and even an on lamp and off lamp.
Though the last two require a 5 pin Bosch relay so those are out for you.
The Bosch Relay Unraveled
Here's my set up laid out for you.
|07-11-2011 01:45 PM|
I bought the Lightforce harness to wire it up. That harness came with a relay so.
Shelby, I would love it if you could show me how to run them at my discretion. I have a separate switch that I want to use. My email is email@example.com if it's easier to correspond that way. Thanks.
|07-11-2011 10:46 AM|
The way the system is set up, least by the harness directions, you will only be able to use the lamps when the high beams are on and the switch is in the on position.
Clicking to low beams, or flipping the switch off(even if the high beams are on) will turn off the lightforce lamps.
They are using a simple Bosch style relay. Effective and it works. The tap to the high beam wire, is the trigger. The switch is the power to activate the relay. The relay gets it's power to run the lamps, after activated, from the fused lead to the battery. And of course the relay has to have a ground connection to work.
If that's how you want em to work wire it as directed.
As for using the factory fog lamp switch, you could but you'll have to wire it completely differently.
The pin codes on the back of the switch are as follows.
#1 is the dimmer control
#2 is the switch out put
#3 is 12 volt in
#4 is ground
If you already have a set of lights wired up to the factory fog switch, I can diagram out to wire up your new lamps under the hood, and not have to go into the dash. BUT they will only work on low beams.
If you want the lamps to be run at your discretion, I can show you how to wire them up that way also. But it would be advisable to have them on a separate switch.
|07-11-2011 04:24 AM|
Thanks for the link... After reading through the instructions provided, it looks like you were right. If you attatch the blue wire to the Active high beam wire, you activate the light. Your wiring harness may not appreciate the light not being run through a relay though... Especially for the HID lights which would have a high current draw on your headlight circuit.
Seriously consider running those lights through a 30 amp relay to protect your Jeep's factory wiring harness...
|07-11-2011 04:12 AM|
Lightforce - Products
|07-11-2011 03:52 AM|
|Wheel2Work||The orange wire on your stock switch is for the dash light dimmer circuit... I believe that you tie into the ACTIVE high beam wire, so your lights CAN'T come on while you have the high beams on, but unless I see the circuit I can't be positive.|
|07-11-2011 01:19 AM|
|Turtles TJ||link to the lightforces? Im not aware of the product|
|07-11-2011 01:18 AM|
I bought some Lightforce's the other day and the wiring is pretty self explanatory. I've got all of it done except one part. The instructions say to "find the active high beam switching wire located on the back of the headlight" and wire one of the wires provided into it. Okay, cool, but if I splice into this wire will this make my Lightforces come on when I switch to the high beams? What does this wire look like by the way?
Second question: I mucked up the switch they provided which is okay because I was planning on wiring to my factory fog light switch. I read somewhere that there's an orange wire coming out of the factory switches that you can splice into and it'll work. Can anyone confirm this? Or...since I'm a electrical retard give me a how to do this guide? Thanks in advance fellas.