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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-10-2007 09:33 AM
ryobi
Finished

Well, it only took a new clutch kit.

It now shifts like a champ.

No binding or grinding from a dead stop.

I also rigged a tranny mount. So, now when I drop the skid plate I don't have to worry about dropping the tranny and transfer case too!

Thanks to all who replied with advice and possible solutions.

Now, on to the exhaust system...........
09-17-2007 06:10 PM
Jeep_Geek I am assuming you have this style internal slave then?

Internal Slave Cylinder (inside the bellhousing)

The external has it mounted on the outside of the bellhousing.

I know the internal is non rebuildable not sure about the external though.
But they are both capable of bleeding
If you do have the internal than the line that runs out of the passanger side of the bell housing and stops is the bleeding side. bleeder screw is on the end use a 1/4 inch wrench and hold it with another wrench.

Make sure all the bolts are out of the bell housing before prying it away from the engine. I believe there are 8 large bolts that come off the bell housing. If you are unsure about prying you can just as easily wiggle and shake the crap out of it and it will slide off just the same.

I pry it alternating from side to side to keep it even about half way up the side of the bell housing between the engine and the housing ( you need a small crack to start prying of coarse).

The inspection plate is must have. You would not want anything to fly up in there and hit your flywheel or clutch.
09-17-2007 01:28 PM
ryobi The rolling in first gear with the clutch in is going to be a problem with either the master or slave cylinder. (wont let the clutch fully disengage
ANSWER: It may just need to be bled or fluid added or replaced. If you have the internal style slave cylinder than I would recommend replacing this when you do the clutch no matter what.( they are prone to problems)

Yes, It is one of the no adjustable, one piece, no service required types. Can I replace this with an earlier rebuildable, bleedable ones?

2. I would not recommend trying to rebuild the transmission unless you have done it before.
You will need a hydraulic press, gear puller, and also tools to measure shaft play etc.

Makes sense. Thanks!

3. The cross member they are referring to is the skid plate itself.

OK, so they intentionally designed it so that to do any service on it that requires removing the skid plate to be a pain in the A**. Shiney

4. You will need to pull the transmission back about 6 inches before you can drop it out. The Input shaft is what is keeping it up, it slides into the clutch that is attached to the flywheel and your engine. Use a pry bar between the bell housing and engine to separate them or just wiggle it and push. make sure you have it on a jack with wheels that will allow it to just roll back.

There is a gap between the thin metal inspection plate and the bell housing adapter. Is that where I should stick the pry bar? Will this damage the inspection plate? Do I absolutely need the inspection plate? Could I get by without it?
09-17-2007 12:35 PM
Jeep_Geek 1.
The rolling in first gear with the clutch in is going to be a problem with either the master or slave cylinder. (wont let the clutch fully disengage
ANSWER: It may just need to be bled or fluid added or replaced. If you have the internal style slave cylinder than I would recommend replacing this when you do the clutch no matter what.( they are prone to problems)

2. I would not recommend trying to rebuild the transmission unless you have done it before.
You will need a hydraulic press, gear puller, and also tools to measure shaft play etc.

3. The cross member they are referring to is the skid plate itself.

4. You will need to pull the transmission back about 6 inches before you can drop it out. The Input shaft is what is keeping it up, it slides into the clutch that is attached to the flywheel and your engine. Use a pry bar between the bell housing and engine to separate them or just wiggle it and push. make sure you have it on a jack with wheels that will allow it to just roll back.

Hope this helps!
09-17-2007 11:16 AM
ryobi
Clutch? Transmission? Some advice needed

Ok,

When I bought my YJ (1994, 2.5 liter, 5 spd man.) it had 154,00 miles on it and the clutch has never been changed. The master and slave cylinder has been replaced before. the gear oil level in the tranny was replaced since I became the owner 1500 miles ago.

Putting the vehicle into gear was very difficult. It took considerable force to make the shifter enter 1st gear. It was the same for 2nd gear. It was a little easier to put it into reverse but there was usually some grinding noises (high pitched). Putting it into 3rd, 4th, or 5th was no problem. This is all while I was sitting still, completely stopped with the engine running.

So, I got into the habit of putting it into 1st gear while the engine was stopped (no problem doing that) then starting the vehicle and then driving off.

Shifting while driving is no problem. As long as I am down shifting and still rolling a little bit the tranny slips right into gear. Now, if I completely stop and then try put it into 1st gear it again becomes extremely difficult.

I checked with the previous owners and they said that it had been like that for so long that they got into the habit of putting it into 3rd and then quickly shifting into 1st. This works MOST of the time.

Then my stepdad noticed something. He noticed that if I started the engine while in gear and clutch pedal depressed the vehicle bagan to roll. I had experienced this before but attributed it to the fact that I was on unlevel ground. So, Iwent and found a parking lot and I puttered around at about 3 MPH in 1st gear with the clutch pedal pushed down.

So, I went out and got a new clutch,pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot bearing. Since I am dropping the transmission to change the clutch out I need to know; Do I need to go ahead and have the transmission rebuilt? Money is, of course, an issue. Does this indicate I need to have the transmission completely rebuilt or do I just need synchronizers or something else? Is this something I can do myself? The diagrams don't look TOO difficult. I can see where possessing a jig or something to hold everything aligned while putting the case back together might be needed. Has anyone done this before?

I would like to bulletproof this process as much as possible. I am having considerable trouble getting the tranny out. So, far I have removed the transfer case and unbolted the transmission completely. The transmission shows no signs of leaving willingly, although I have removed all eight of the bolts that attach it to the engine. I know that I have to pull the tranny backwards somewhat to get it to drop out, but how much? Since the exhaust is in the way I am removing the tail pipe completely to give myself some room to work.

Plus, what is this rear crossmember bar? The manual states that after dropping the skid plate you jack the tranny up slightly and remove the rear crossmember bar/brace to drop transfer case. Well, when I dropped the skid plate the transfer case and tranny tried to follow it down because nothing was holding them up BUT the skid plate. Is that normal?

While I've got this all of this undone I have found a hole in my exhaust system and the it is, of course, welded. I am planning on replacing this with new pipes as cheaply as possble I am thinking a generic cat. converter with a cherry bomb muffler. Any suggestions.

Thank You all in advance for your assistance.

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