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Topic Review (Newest First)
08-11-2011 09:20 AM
Black Magic Brakes I'm surprised that no one has posted up a very great alternative to aftermarket skids if you have a body lift.

Grab an 03 up skid and slice the mounting flanges horizontally above where the tank straps sit.

Overlap them 1" and then weld, rivet, or bolt them back together.

That gives you a much higher skid that is much harder to bash on the rocks and stumps and costs very little.

You need to find one local because shipping sorta ruins a great cheap mod.
08-11-2011 09:00 AM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Sahara
Can i just replace the gas tank skid or do I have to replace the whole tank if I go with one of these?
Nope, just the skid, but you do have to drop the tank to do it.
08-11-2011 08:40 AM
Jersey Sahara Perfect mine is rusted through and I wanna put a new one on and get the rust outa there
08-11-2011 08:38 AM
geiman Just the skid, although I believe some of the skids require the old one be left on, Savvy's I know does not however.
08-11-2011 08:37 AM
Jersey Sahara Can i just replace the gas tank skid or do I have to replace the whole tank if I go with one of these?
08-11-2011 08:22 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
Someone is a little sensitive of their bolts

I never said anything about the bolts, and that is the pic straight from the website. I just said the UCF is more visually appealing. And by that, I was refering to how the sides of the skid flow with the rest of it. I like how the UCF skid has a smooth transition from the sides to the underside, to the back....vs the separate welded pieces.

I understand that you would have to try to see the bolts on the Savvy skid....that's why I didn't make that an issue, but apparently it is for some people.

Your design explanation makes sense. If that is how you need to make it to make it as strong as it can be....more power to you. I respect the R&D that went in to figuring that out.
I'm not particularly sensitive about them, but we've had a lot of folks complain and I can't keep the design valid without them.

The other thing that hasn't been brought up is what happens when you weld 6061-T6. It's no longer the T6 temper where the welds are, so I wrapped the ends of the mounting flanges around to the sides which will help retain the sides if you manage to hit something hard enough to break the welds.
08-11-2011 07:39 AM
TXST8tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
You also picked the worst picture possible to make your point. If you use the upper holes in the Steel Mounting flanges and have a rear bumper, you have to get down on your hands and knees to even see the bolts.

If you you look at this pic, you can see how high the tank is relative to the rear bumper and what you would have to do to see the bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes
Shame on you Mo, you're supposed to get down on your hands and knees to take the pic so everyone can see the unappealing bolts.
Someone is a little sensitive of their bolts

I never said anything about the bolts, and that is the pic straight from the website. I just said the UCF is more visually appealing. And by that, I was refering to how the sides of the skid flow with the rest of it. I like how the UCF skid has a smooth transition from the sides to the underside, to the back....vs the separate welded pieces.

I understand that you would have to try to see the bolts on the Savvy skid....that's why I didn't make that an issue, but apparently it is for some people.

Your design explanation makes sense. If that is how you need to make it to make it as strong as it can be....more power to you. I respect the R&D that went in to figuring that out.
08-11-2011 03:55 AM
Wesboy At risk of repeating what's already been said...
I wanted to replace the dented stock skid and get a bit more clearance, so went with Savvy. Taking advantage of my BL, total skid clearance gain was 1.75".
And strong! Within 24 hours of install, dropped the rear end in a ditch. GTS landed on the point of a broken drain made of steel and cement and slid off. Don't think the stock skid would have fared so well.
Old skid/New skid comparo.
08-11-2011 12:11 AM
Jerry Bransford It was a Tomken skidplate I replaced with my Savvy aluminum skid. I don't miss that heavy Tomken in the least, though it was great when I first installed it back in 1998. Back then, that type of skidplate was about all that was available.
08-10-2011 11:01 PM
NHWRANGLER i have a tomken skid. things rugged. they dont f**k around. highly recomended. made some sld rock contact
08-10-2011 10:58 PM
IndyJeepMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by tj00wrangler View Post
I really like my Rokmen. I did do the BL and MML at the same time as the Tank skid.

In this picture you can see that the tank is the same level as the exhaust. It is actually about an 1"-2" higher than exhaust.
Attachment 62222

Attachment 62223
Rokmen makes a really nice skid. Dave is also a really nice guy, a real pleasure to speak with. For the money most people don't need the extra weight saved by switching to aluminum so steel works for many people its as simple as that.

Of course aluminum has many advantages, but most people don't NEED those advantages. I like to buy aluminum because where I live rust is a nuisance, and since I like to spend stupid amounts of money and be different I buy aluminum. lol. But steel works, so don't feel obligated that if you don't have aluminum you arent a Jeeper, or a hardcore wheeler. They did work with steel back in the day on the trail and still do!
08-10-2011 10:39 PM
DevilDogDoc You mean the all new hardware that replaces everything including the Christmas trees that UCF doesn't include for more money on theirs?
08-10-2011 10:39 PM
tj00wrangler I really like my Rokmen. I did do the BL and MML at the same time as the Tank skid.

In this picture you can see that the tank is the same level as the exhaust. It is actually about an 1"-2" higher than exhaust.
Attachment 62222

Attachment 62223
08-10-2011 10:35 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc View Post
Still loving mine Blaine!
Shame on you Mo, you're supposed to get down on your hands and knees to take the pic so everyone can see the unappealing bolts.
08-10-2011 10:32 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes

It would work better if they notched the flange behind the receiver. Some drawbars and recovery points have to be cut down or that flange notched if you want to get the hitch pin in.
In a perfect world, it does keep rocks from destroying my tank though, that's a plus.
08-10-2011 10:30 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post
Teraflex, works great.
It would work better if they notched the flange behind the receiver. Some drawbars and recovery points have to be cut down or that flange notched if you want to get the hitch pin in.
08-10-2011 10:24 PM
jrussblues Teraflex, works great.
08-10-2011 09:16 PM
DevilDogDoc Still loving mine Blaine!
08-10-2011 07:52 PM
IndyJeepMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post
Psh...this guy...
Hahaha. I am..

but for serious
08-10-2011 05:31 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
The strength is in the design. I do like the look of full radius corners, but structurally they are immensely far stronger and resistant to denting or deformation than a pair of bends are connecting two flat spots.

The reason you see double bends to get around the corner is vendors aren't willing to spend the time and money that it takes to make their own bending dies and top punches so they just use whatever the shop supplying their parts has in stock as far as tooling goes.

If the tooling is just good enough, then that's what you get in your finished part, just good enough.
I agree, an arch supports itself throughout it's radius, thus making it stronger when faced with compression. Do all of your Savvy parts come with the same warranty?
08-10-2011 05:18 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
That's a cool warranty, lol I wish all my parts made that same claim!
The strength is in the design. I do like the look of full radius corners, but structurally they are immensely far stronger and resistant to denting or deformation than a pair of bends are connecting two flat spots.

The reason you see double bends to get around the corner is vendors aren't willing to spend the time and money that it takes to make their own bending dies and top punches so they just use whatever the shop supplying their parts has in stock as far as tooling goes.

If the tooling is just good enough, then that's what you get in your finished part, just good enough.
08-10-2011 03:57 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
As normal with Joe, he's just confused. The Savvy skid is very much stronger than the factory skid and we have a guarantee that if you can make it fail offroad, we'll replace it for free as long as we get to use the pics of how you did it and where you did it to show folks just how far you have to go to tear one up.

So far, no one has been able to take us up on the warranty.
That's a cool warranty, lol I wish all my parts made that same claim!
08-10-2011 03:48 PM
G54 I put on the Rokmen. Like most others I suggest you go with that or the Saavy if you want aluminum. I'm still a fan of steel though.

Side view:

08-10-2011 02:54 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
Im just going with a cell when my stretch is done, or I would go with the Rokmen, or Savvy.
Psh...this guy...
08-10-2011 02:50 PM
IndyJeepMan Im just going with a cell when my stretch is done, or I would go with the Rokmen, or Savvy.
08-10-2011 02:36 PM
CSM41
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
I'm not the biggest Savvy fan, but the savvy skid is WAY better than the UFC Al skid. Aluminum is stronger than steel by weight. If your aluminum skid weighs half of the stock skid, you are going to have a much weaker skid vs the stock one. My favorite is the rokmen skid. $100 less than savvy and 3/16" steel instead of aluminum.
I have the Rokmen skid and like it. However, I wish I had done better research because if I had, I would have gone with the Savvy skid. My old stock skid was so rusted that when I removed it, it practically
disintegrated. Even the straps were toast causing me to buy a set of new ones. By the time it was all said and done, the difference in cost was negligible. I also had to sand and paint the new skid as well.
08-10-2011 02:05 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
The savvy skid is not lighter. 4# heavier as stated above.
Right, so still not seeing your point about an aluminum skid plate that is half the weight of the stock skid, unless you're still trying to say that Savvy's skid is not heavy enough to be stronger than stock.
08-10-2011 02:00 PM
jgorm
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
You're a little confusing here; are you stating that the lighter Savvy skid will be weaker than the stock skid?
The savvy skid is not lighter. 4# heavier as stated above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
As normal with Joe, he's just confused.
Nope, not confused one bit Blaine, but you'll never pass on a chance for a quick jab.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
If you're gonna buy a steel skid, you may as well go with the one from EMP. All steel skids are about the same with the same drawbacks, so why pay more?
The EMP is flat bottom.
08-10-2011 01:46 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
As normal with Joe, he's just confused. The Savvy skid is very much stronger than the factory skid and we have a guarantee that if you can make it fail offroad, we'll replace it for free as long as we get to use the pics of how you did it and where you did it to show folks just how far you have to go to tear one up.

So far, no one has been able to take us up on the warranty.
Oh I fully understand that, I was just hoping he did. I really didn't want to have to post pics of my pathetic stock skid to show how weak it is.
08-10-2011 01:45 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm View Post
I'm not the biggest Savvy fan, but the savvy skid is WAY better than the UFC Al skid. Aluminum is stronger than steel by weight. If your aluminum skid weighs half of the stock skid, you are going to have a much weaker skid vs the stock one. My favorite is the rokmen skid. $100 less than savvy and 3/16" steel instead of aluminum.
If you're gonna buy a steel skid, you may as well go with the one from EMP. All steel skids are about the same with the same drawbacks, so why pay more?
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