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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-21-2014 09:23 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrede View Post
What type of paint and process are you using? Has anyone powder coated a Savvy?
You can powdercoat it, Gerald at Savvy loves powdercoating his aluminum armor. I wouldn't powdercoat the gas tank skidplate though. If you use it on trails where you need a gas tank skidplate, you'll just be always trying to keep the powder coating touched up with paint.
09-21-2014 08:03 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrede View Post
What type of paint and process are you using? Has anyone powder coated a Savvy?
I clean it, prime it and paint it just like anything else.
09-21-2014 07:37 PM
Vrede
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post

I painted my Savvy skid before installing it, and I soon be painting my new-to-me Savvy arms & Savvy tummy tuck. If you like the brushed aluminum look, you can clear coat...it's a "color" of paint.
What type of paint and process are you using? Has anyone powder coated a Savvy?
09-21-2014 05:47 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrede View Post
I am looking at getting the Savvy Gas Tank Skid. Do I need to clear coat it to prevent rust?
rust is a type of corrosion specific to iron and iron-alloys. steel is an iron alloy. aluminum is not.

therefore aluminum won't rust. it will however corrode. it's your call if you want to paint the skid or not. some people don't, but they often live in the desert and haven't seen snow, rain or salt...like ever. Personally, having grown up in the salt/rust belt, I know what corrosion does to aluminum and steel.

I painted my Savvy skid before installing it, and I soon be painting my new-to-me Savvy arms & Savvy tummy tuck. If you like the brushed aluminum look, you can clear coat...it's a "color" of paint.
09-21-2014 05:47 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrede View Post
I am looking at getting the Savvy Gas Tank Skid. Do I need to clear coat it to prevent rust?
No it won't rust, it's aluminum. Been running Savvy's bare aluminum gas tank skidplate for years on two different trail TJs, it's a great choice... it has withstood impacts that made me cringe.
09-21-2014 05:32 PM
Vrede I am looking at getting the Savvy Gas Tank Skid. Do I need to clear coat it to prevent rust?
08-11-2011 10:20 AM
Black Magic Brakes I'm surprised that no one has posted up a very great alternative to aftermarket skids if you have a body lift.

Grab an 03 up skid and slice the mounting flanges horizontally above where the tank straps sit.

Overlap them 1" and then weld, rivet, or bolt them back together.

That gives you a much higher skid that is much harder to bash on the rocks and stumps and costs very little.

You need to find one local because shipping sorta ruins a great cheap mod.
08-11-2011 10:00 AM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jersey Sahara
Can i just replace the gas tank skid or do I have to replace the whole tank if I go with one of these?
Nope, just the skid, but you do have to drop the tank to do it.
08-11-2011 09:40 AM
Jersey Sahara Perfect mine is rusted through and I wanna put a new one on and get the rust outa there
08-11-2011 09:38 AM
geiman Just the skid, although I believe some of the skids require the old one be left on, Savvy's I know does not however.
08-11-2011 09:37 AM
Jersey Sahara Can i just replace the gas tank skid or do I have to replace the whole tank if I go with one of these?
08-11-2011 09:22 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
Someone is a little sensitive of their bolts

I never said anything about the bolts, and that is the pic straight from the website. I just said the UCF is more visually appealing. And by that, I was refering to how the sides of the skid flow with the rest of it. I like how the UCF skid has a smooth transition from the sides to the underside, to the back....vs the separate welded pieces.

I understand that you would have to try to see the bolts on the Savvy skid....that's why I didn't make that an issue, but apparently it is for some people.

Your design explanation makes sense. If that is how you need to make it to make it as strong as it can be....more power to you. I respect the R&D that went in to figuring that out.
I'm not particularly sensitive about them, but we've had a lot of folks complain and I can't keep the design valid without them.

The other thing that hasn't been brought up is what happens when you weld 6061-T6. It's no longer the T6 temper where the welds are, so I wrapped the ends of the mounting flanges around to the sides which will help retain the sides if you manage to hit something hard enough to break the welds.
08-11-2011 08:39 AM
TXST8tj
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
You also picked the worst picture possible to make your point. If you use the upper holes in the Steel Mounting flanges and have a rear bumper, you have to get down on your hands and knees to even see the bolts.

If you you look at this pic, you can see how high the tank is relative to the rear bumper and what you would have to do to see the bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes
Shame on you Mo, you're supposed to get down on your hands and knees to take the pic so everyone can see the unappealing bolts.
Someone is a little sensitive of their bolts

I never said anything about the bolts, and that is the pic straight from the website. I just said the UCF is more visually appealing. And by that, I was refering to how the sides of the skid flow with the rest of it. I like how the UCF skid has a smooth transition from the sides to the underside, to the back....vs the separate welded pieces.

I understand that you would have to try to see the bolts on the Savvy skid....that's why I didn't make that an issue, but apparently it is for some people.

Your design explanation makes sense. If that is how you need to make it to make it as strong as it can be....more power to you. I respect the R&D that went in to figuring that out.
08-11-2011 04:55 AM
Wesboy At risk of repeating what's already been said...
I wanted to replace the dented stock skid and get a bit more clearance, so went with Savvy. Taking advantage of my BL, total skid clearance gain was 1.75".
And strong! Within 24 hours of install, dropped the rear end in a ditch. GTS landed on the point of a broken drain made of steel and cement and slid off. Don't think the stock skid would have fared so well.
Old skid/New skid comparo.
08-11-2011 01:11 AM
Jerry Bransford It was a Tomken skidplate I replaced with my Savvy aluminum skid. I don't miss that heavy Tomken in the least, though it was great when I first installed it back in 1998. Back then, that type of skidplate was about all that was available.
08-11-2011 12:01 AM
NHWRANGLER i have a tomken skid. things rugged. they dont f**k around. highly recomended. made some sld rock contact
08-10-2011 11:58 PM
IndyJeepMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by tj00wrangler View Post
I really like my Rokmen. I did do the BL and MML at the same time as the Tank skid.

In this picture you can see that the tank is the same level as the exhaust. It is actually about an 1"-2" higher than exhaust.
Attachment 62222

Attachment 62223
Rokmen makes a really nice skid. Dave is also a really nice guy, a real pleasure to speak with. For the money most people don't need the extra weight saved by switching to aluminum so steel works for many people its as simple as that.

Of course aluminum has many advantages, but most people don't NEED those advantages. I like to buy aluminum because where I live rust is a nuisance, and since I like to spend stupid amounts of money and be different I buy aluminum. lol. But steel works, so don't feel obligated that if you don't have aluminum you arent a Jeeper, or a hardcore wheeler. They did work with steel back in the day on the trail and still do!
08-10-2011 11:39 PM
DevilDogDoc You mean the all new hardware that replaces everything including the Christmas trees that UCF doesn't include for more money on theirs?
08-10-2011 11:39 PM
tj00wrangler I really like my Rokmen. I did do the BL and MML at the same time as the Tank skid.

In this picture you can see that the tank is the same level as the exhaust. It is actually about an 1"-2" higher than exhaust.
Attachment 62222

Attachment 62223
08-10-2011 11:35 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc View Post
Still loving mine Blaine!
Shame on you Mo, you're supposed to get down on your hands and knees to take the pic so everyone can see the unappealing bolts.
08-10-2011 11:32 PM
jrussblues
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes

It would work better if they notched the flange behind the receiver. Some drawbars and recovery points have to be cut down or that flange notched if you want to get the hitch pin in.
In a perfect world, it does keep rocks from destroying my tank though, that's a plus.
08-10-2011 11:30 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post
Teraflex, works great.
It would work better if they notched the flange behind the receiver. Some drawbars and recovery points have to be cut down or that flange notched if you want to get the hitch pin in.
08-10-2011 11:24 PM
jrussblues Teraflex, works great.
08-10-2011 10:16 PM
DevilDogDoc Still loving mine Blaine!
08-10-2011 08:52 PM
IndyJeepMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cons_Table View Post
Psh...this guy...
Hahaha. I am..

but for serious
08-10-2011 06:31 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
The strength is in the design. I do like the look of full radius corners, but structurally they are immensely far stronger and resistant to denting or deformation than a pair of bends are connecting two flat spots.

The reason you see double bends to get around the corner is vendors aren't willing to spend the time and money that it takes to make their own bending dies and top punches so they just use whatever the shop supplying their parts has in stock as far as tooling goes.

If the tooling is just good enough, then that's what you get in your finished part, just good enough.
I agree, an arch supports itself throughout it's radius, thus making it stronger when faced with compression. Do all of your Savvy parts come with the same warranty?
08-10-2011 06:18 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
That's a cool warranty, lol I wish all my parts made that same claim!
The strength is in the design. I do like the look of full radius corners, but structurally they are immensely far stronger and resistant to denting or deformation than a pair of bends are connecting two flat spots.

The reason you see double bends to get around the corner is vendors aren't willing to spend the time and money that it takes to make their own bending dies and top punches so they just use whatever the shop supplying their parts has in stock as far as tooling goes.

If the tooling is just good enough, then that's what you get in your finished part, just good enough.
08-10-2011 04:57 PM
necromancer_tat
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
As normal with Joe, he's just confused. The Savvy skid is very much stronger than the factory skid and we have a guarantee that if you can make it fail offroad, we'll replace it for free as long as we get to use the pics of how you did it and where you did it to show folks just how far you have to go to tear one up.

So far, no one has been able to take us up on the warranty.
That's a cool warranty, lol I wish all my parts made that same claim!
08-10-2011 04:48 PM
G54 I put on the Rokmen. Like most others I suggest you go with that or the Saavy if you want aluminum. I'm still a fan of steel though.

Side view:

08-10-2011 03:54 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan View Post
Im just going with a cell when my stretch is done, or I would go with the Rokmen, or Savvy.
Psh...this guy...
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