|11-23-2011 08:27 PM|
nice project,it looks to be in perfect shape
you done a hell of a job on that patch work
|11-05-2011 06:31 PM|
|gryph||Jeep is looking great, the repair was 1st rate and I'm sure the time you spent underneath the jeep will pay off in the long run !|
|11-05-2011 06:09 PM|
|10-31-2011 09:48 PM|
|yjJEEPyj||nice Fix on that rust hole! Props On that. And the whole build is looking great. I need to clean up my frame a lil also. Im building a 94 Yj. Started out.. just a vehicle. but now im in love with her Looking forward to seeing your progress|
|10-09-2011 08:00 PM|
|onroad||Haha, actually that is what I'll be doing eventually, but what you see there now is just the chopped off end of the original one. When I tried to take the whole piece off, the threaded inserts were all spinning and I had to cut the bolts off, and in order to get the cutoff wheel in there I had to hack it all up. So just cut the end off and stuck it on there so it looks a little better for the time being. When I replace all the flares I'll be going with the short ones. And maybe put tube steps in.|
|10-09-2011 07:29 PM|
Looks good. I see you are putting the short fender flares that taper on instead of sticking with the long "running board" type.
I switched mine as well. I originally wanted to keep that look, but I could not find any replacements.
|10-09-2011 06:40 PM|
Here is the result of the patch--
From this angle it looks perfect but if you look down the side with the right reflection, you can see a definite wave in it. It's not critical to me anyway since I'll be putting on black diamond plate sideplates that will cover most of it, to about an inch below the Jeep logo. If it really bothers me I'll work it a little more with filler when I start the painting process.
Today I cut off the old trashed bumperettes and trailer hitch. I just went at it with a cutoff wheel because those inner bolts had nuts behind them that I could not reach unless I drop the fuel tank skid. I had plates dropping out back there too, that maybe the nuts were welded to long long ago, but not any more. To ease the installation of the new bumper, I welded in threaded inserts from the front so I never have to mess with getting nuts behind the crossmember.
Sanded it all good, primed and used chassis coat. And some rusty metal primer for the skid plate, but one day I think I'll swap that out for a stainless one.
|10-07-2011 07:02 PM|
Thanks, yeah I'll be staying with the hunter green metallic.
I filled, primed, and sprayed a temporary topcoat (rattle can of color matched touchup) on the repair. With the topcoat on I see there are a few flaws in the surface. I didn't do enough work on the filler, and there are a few low spots and sanding marks. Overall it's pretty good, from a few steps back it's hard to notice unless you're looking for it. I might go back in and work it with some more filler when I get a chance, but for now the hole is patched and I'm happy. I'll post a pic of the (semi-finished) result when it's light out and I have time.
|10-07-2011 02:37 PM|
Nice repair Greg. I was wondering when we were gonna get an update!
When you paint, you are keeping the factory dark green, right?
|10-06-2011 07:14 PM|
|10-06-2011 06:13 PM|
I got around to tackling the rot hole in the rocker panel today. Little hole, big job, lol. It's my first try at body work. So far it's working out ok. I'm currently in the body filler stage after a full day of work.
Luckily the rot didn't yet creep into the embossed Jeep logo. If it did, there's no way I'd even try to recreate it. Beyond my metalworking skill. The plan would have been to cut the whole logo out, replace it with flat metal, and use a raised emblem there, and do the same on the other side. I'm happy I was just able to save it, it was close.
I think this is a pretty common spot for rot. The door support right behind the panel traps moisture, and it looked really bad once I uncovered it, as you see in the second pic.
I really didn't want to get into replacing the whole door support, so I covered it with rust converter, and sprayed the back of my replacement piece with zinc galvanizing compound.
Welded it in place with repeated tack welds, spread out to prevent warping. Once I ground it flat I had lots of little gaps. Had to weld, grind, weld, grind a number of times to get rid of all the pinholes, all the while fighting with it burning back on me, and tweaking my mig settings. Sheetmetal welding is something I haven't had much experience with.
Just waiting for filler to dry, then I'll prime it and put a temporary topcoat on it until I get around to painting the whole Jeep.
|09-22-2011 12:34 AM|
Man I love this, when I'm trying to get some damn body work done!
|09-08-2011 10:45 PM|
|09-08-2011 06:23 PM|
|09-06-2011 06:27 PM|
I'm on board as well... Good
Job man I'm sure the jeep
Is happy again
|09-06-2011 04:36 PM|
|09-06-2011 04:28 PM|
|College_fishman||following now! sweet build|
|09-05-2011 01:39 PM|
How about to fold down(maybe remove) the windshield & replace cowl... How do the wipers come off?
|08-23-2011 10:58 PM|
|onroad||Oh no, gotta be able to recline! I mean with this halftop I can't go back far, but when you need a nap you need a nap.|
|08-23-2011 05:08 PM|
Ohhh ok. No wonder they looked different than these I am considering...
Bestop TrailMax II Seat 39436-09 | eBay
Also, it looks like mine will not recline...
|08-22-2011 10:16 PM|
Yeah they sure are. The outer material is vinyl, and the inner material is fabric. Funny thing is they're not quite as 2-tone as I expected. These are the exact ones: Bestop TrailMax™ II Sport Front Seats in Fabric for 76-06 Jeep® CJ-5,CJ-7,CJ-8 Scrambler & Wrangler YJ,TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec
Got black denim, and the outer portion is not nearly as dark as pictured. But I like them anyway.
|08-21-2011 04:41 PM|
|billy_YJ||Hey onroad... Your seats look two-tone. Any of the Bestop Trailmax II's I have found are just one solid color. Are they in fact two-tone?|
|08-19-2011 11:31 PM|
|Always Stuck||Cut them out with a thin grinding wheel and call it a day. Buy new bolts and all is good. That's what I did with mine because they can be a bitch.|
|08-19-2011 07:12 PM|
|onroad||Well mine aren't broken, but they're original with 200k miles on them. I'd estimate there's a couple inches of sag. I definitely notice it now with 16" wheels and P245/70 tires. The new leafs are 1.5" lift, so I should gain a good few inches. The tires actually rub the fender flares slightly when it hits full compression.|
|08-19-2011 08:57 AM|
Well good luck with that. I was wondering how to tell when its time to replace the leafs. One friend of mine said as long as they are not broken, no need to replace. Mine do look a little flat, but I don't really have a frame of reference. Is there a benefit to new leaf springs, besides a higher ride?
|08-18-2011 05:43 PM|
I tried installing my new leafs today and ultimately failed. I was at home, so I'll have to try again at my shop with some heavier duty tools. Didn't get past the driver's front spring. I had that side all apart up to the rear eye bolt, and ran into the classic problem of the bolt being stuck inside the bushing sleeve. I mean STUCK. More stuck than possibly anything I've ever seen. I'm a mechanic and I deal with pain in the ass stuff all the time. I went at it with a 10 pound sledge and couldn't budge it, I rocked my entire body weight on it with a 3 foot breaker bar to try to turn it loose, no luck. I was almost lifting the Jeep up with it. I had it soaked up in PB for hours. It's unbelievable... there's never been anything the huge breaker bar couldn't accomplish.
I'd try to heat it but I think all that's gonna do is start a stinky rubber fire and annoy the neighbors. It was about all I could physically do in my driveway. I have a little 4 gallon compressor here, but I can't run any serious air tools on it. I'm off Thursdays and Sundays, but the shop is closed Sun, so next Thursday I'll try again at the shop. I'll see if I can spin that bolt out with an impact gun. If that doesn't work, I guess all I can do is stick a cutoff tool up in there and go to town. If all 4 of the large eye bolts are this way (and probably will be) it's gonna be real fun.
|08-14-2011 08:26 PM|
|onroad||Well this should be a partial solution-- I ordered a cab cover for it. If I know we're gonna have a torrential rain storm like we're having, I'll throw it on. So at least I can keep it dry when it's parked and I have good forecast info. If I'm out on the road or can't get to it for any reason, then it'll get wet, but at least I can protect it some of the time. Might be a good thing to use when it snows too.|
|08-14-2011 07:34 PM|
|onroad||I do, but I'm planning on getting rid of it. It's not in great shape, and I don't have anywhere to store it. I have very limited space here so keeping it around isn't an option. So I'm just gonna make the best of the situation, put some drain holes in the floor and let the water exit. I don't care if things get a little wet, I just don't want the deep pools of water that I found this morning.|
|08-14-2011 06:49 PM|
|billy_YJ||If worse comes to worse, you still have the hard top, right?|
|08-14-2011 12:27 PM|
Ouch. I could tell after I installed this halftop it was going to leak. I can see pinholes of light through the stitching, the collars around the rollbars are far from water tight, and most of all I've had a very hard time getting the door seals to line up right.
As for the door seals... I think it's just a case of an old Jeep with 20 years of stress on the body and frame, trying to line up with a brand new top. Seems like the slightest tolerances being off causes hell when trying to get the door surround, and the weatherstripping sewn into the fabric, to line up just right. I've fought with it for 3 (dry) days, and got it as good as it's going to be.
Today, so far, we've had about 8 hours of constant pouring rain. A nice extreme leak test. Well, I went out to check up on her and there's about 3 inches deep water on the floor behind the front seats. (LOL... all I can do is laugh it off, rather than my natural reaction to freak out) The rear cargo area is also fully wet everywhere. The back cover was sagging and pooled up with about 10 lbs of water, which was creeping it's way in through seams and the roll bar collars in back. I stuck a few cardboard boxes in there to temporarily prop it up. I have a bow kit made for truck tonneau covers on order, which I'll cut to fit the Jeep and support the cover.
So I guess mother nature is winning, and there's not much one can do to fight her. The vitals, electronics, dash, seats, etc, stay dry, the water just gets in around the sides, and gathers on the floor. My solution is to observe, and drill some strategically placed drain holes in the floor. Why fight it when I can just let it pass through. I don't care if things get a little wet, just don't want water sitting there and rusting out my floor. Oh well, it is what it is.
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