|11-11-2011 12:29 AM|
|bagged92sdime||i know this is an older thread, but I figured I'd throw my $.02 in...I have a 00 sahara running 35's on a OME 2.5" lift and a 1" body lift and I have no problems with it.|
|09-17-2011 09:51 AM|
|The White Yeti||
For a mall crawler with 35's you can keep things pretty basic and cost effective.
Lift: Zone 3" is a great value, rides great, flexes great, not too complicated
Keep the wheels @ 4" back spacing or less.
That being said, if your just wanting it looks good...most people don't know the difference between 33's and 35's...so don't over extend.
I completely agree that with 35's you should upgrade your steering and brakes, especially if you increase your wheel size from 15" (tire and wheel weight goes up quickly and varies drastically by tire/ wheel type and brand) and you will want to change the gearing (if you have 3.73 or 4.10, you can live with it for a while, I am)
With the above lift and 35's on my LJ (all else stock) I have wheeled some pretty great trails @ Rock Run (in Pa) and Rausch Creek (in Pa), now will it land me on the cover of a magazine..NO!....did the tires rub in the fender wells....yes hence the body lift!....am I done building....no way!
|08-29-2011 07:50 AM|
|shawnyancey||thank you to everybody for the posts. from what i gather, i should start with a better base model such as the rubicon to get some factory upgraded axles and suspension parts, and then either plan on big bucks for 35" tires or choose the simpler and cheaper path with 33" tires. anyway, thank you for all of the GREAT information, and for being patient with my obvious lack of knowledge. i know just enough to be dangerous, so my point in asking the question was to avoid some obvious mistakes. please continue to post any suggestions - thank you!|
|08-29-2011 03:43 AM|
|Ryan1||Its all one big happy family here. I dont think there are too many familys out there who dont disagree and argue time to time. Just a minor verbal domestic going on here.....|
|08-28-2011 10:23 PM|
WOW. I have been here for the last 8 months and I am surprised at some people here. I love reading on how to wheel your Jeep and love it. Mine is pretty much a "mall crawler" of a Jeep. Stock suspension with 31" tires. And like you shawlyancey, my Jeep is for cruising with the top down in the summer and snow driving in the winter. But I have no problem taking it out in the farm field or the woods for any reason. From what I have read here, put some 33 inch tires under it and lift it about 3 inches. That will give you a nice look and hopefully make you stand out a bit like you want to on the street. Hope others here will help.
|08-28-2011 10:20 PM|
Hmmm, no I really don't know why you tend to start arguments with me, but I know that there will always be people who try to put you down in life. I just walk right through them. On the other hand, I hardly ever get in arguements with people. I can name a handful of people who like to pick them with me however. I have many friends and acquaintances both on WF and in the rest of my life. 99% of them would probably say I'm an alright guy. We all let our words get out of hand sometimes. But to jump on someone on an internet forum over something like this is just silly and childish. And if you say I am being childish, at least I have an excuse I don't hide my age from anyone, but that doesn't mean I don't know what I am talking about on occasion.
Now I don't want to drag this on and I am willing to be an adult about this. I know you weren't trying to personally tick me off, just point out whatever flaws you saw in my suggestions. Thats perfectly fine, and I agree whole-heartedly with most of it. So there is nothing left to disagree about. It really dissapoints me that a thread like this turns into a debate between other members. I am sorry to both the OP and everyone else involed. Sorry if I offended you in anyways. I'll just mind my own business from now on, and let you pros handle it.
|08-28-2011 09:04 PM|
Anyways. Good luck. I'm moving on.
|08-28-2011 09:00 PM|
And Jerry and rda, I am not trying to insult you in any way. but out of all the people who posted suggestions, three of you decide to try to disprove my sugestion? I am sorry If there is a hole or two in a plan I made up in 3 minutes. It takes alot more thought and effort to plan a good jeep build than that. But obviously this isn't my build so I am not going to put that much effort into it. Its a jeep forum. Seriously...
Ibuildembig, I agree. Get it done the cheap country way
|08-28-2011 08:58 PM|
You just like to come after me don't you? Ever since I joined this forum you have jumped on me every change you got. Keep it up, it doesn't bother me.
I did say thats how I'd do IT "RIGHT" now whose to say what my definition of it is? He asked a question and I am answering his question. Why would I talk about an offroad rig in a thread that has nothing to do with that? Use context. I obviously am talking about how I would build a "budget mall crawler for a business" because thats how I summed up what he was asking. It's all my own damn opinion and I am entitled to that. If you have a problem with it, I suggest you get over it. Your never going to be able to change another persons feelings or opinions with your kind of attitude.
|08-28-2011 06:21 PM|
|Jeepoffroad04||opc orn:: popcorn:|
|08-28-2011 06:07 PM|
|08-28-2011 03:35 PM|
My opinion, but doing it "right" for street only use would be MetalCloak - no lift, changing the gearing, and making sure the steering and brakes are up to snuff...also need to do something with the tire carrier for the extra weight. Any lift is pointless and only serves to worsen an already bad handling vehicle...also makes getting in and out that much more difficult, and puts more stress (more than just adding 35's anyway) on the control arms/bushings.
In reality, a street-only rig shouldn't really be modified from stock anyway (they are a bad enough road-vehicle as is)...but we all know people who do so for the look. Their Jeep, their money, their choice.
|08-28-2011 03:34 PM|
|Ibuildembig||Im tellin ya, 6" from RC and be done with it|
|08-28-2011 03:21 PM|
|08-28-2011 02:47 PM|
|08-28-2011 02:36 PM|
He asked about suspension, not drivetrain or brakes or steering. So I didn't include any of that. I answered his question.
It is entertaining how you both try to tell me how wrong I am though. Have a nice day.
|08-28-2011 11:31 AM|
|08-28-2011 11:04 AM|
|nick50471||I think we are all forgetting the fact that the OP has already said it will be a mall crawler.|
|08-28-2011 10:39 AM|
You also need a beefed up steering system like from Currie, the stock steering you kept in the picture is definitely not up to 35" tires. A rear track bar relocation bracket is a band-aid, adjustable length track bars for the front and rear are needed to do it "RIGHT".
Not to mention better brakes are needed as do the axles need to be regeared for 35" tires.
|08-28-2011 09:39 AM|
|08-28-2011 08:12 AM|
This is how I would do it RIGHT. You can ran 35s on road with a 44/30 combo easily. Aka a 4.0 LJ with 44/30 axles would be prefereable. Okay so acquire this jeep^
BDS 3inch suspension (or zone on a budget)
JKS 1 inch MML
JKS 1.25 BL
adjustable front track bar or relocation (I dont know what comes with BDS kit)
rear trackbar bracket
Metal cloaks if you want to spend the money, otherwise I would get PSC for a mid price or smittybilt if you want the cheapest. At least repaint the smits. Genright also makes some mean tubes.
Add you 35 inch tires and new rims with correct backspacing.
now cycle your suspension and extend bumpstops to proper length. There is a good chance with having an LJ and installing the mml that you can remove your tcase drop, or at least reduce it.
Your done. Add bumpers, winches, rockers, decals and stickers to your hearts desire.
Your looking at around 4k for the suspension and fenders and stuff the expensive way or 2600 the cheapest way.
|08-28-2011 07:34 AM|
|rda616||Myself, I always buy a quality part that will last so I don't have to do it all over again in a couple years. This is why I wouldn't recommend rough country, procomp, superlift, trail master or a few other cheap kits . They simply don't withstand the test of time. Why buy a lift to find in two years you have lost half what you originally gained due to a poorly engineered product made of sub standard materials.|
|08-28-2011 03:48 AM|
You could always do an air ride suspension similar to Kelderman. thoser are adjustable several inches. Therefore you cold go with 33's first and if you didnt like em you could go with 35' or vice versa. I assume air ride would ride well too..............
|08-28-2011 01:42 AM|
|BlackMetal 2004TJ||maybe try a 33" tire and 3" or 3.5" lift combo instead. that would certainly be cheaper and probably better on gas. because above 4" requires extra work to be done. I've heard that Zone lift kits are good and are a decent price so i would take a look into that|
|08-28-2011 01:17 AM|
|08-27-2011 11:56 PM|
|08-27-2011 08:47 PM|
From what I read above for what you want to do, this to me would be the easiest and safest way... Rough Country's 4" N2.0 Lift, it will clear 35" tires no problem. The lift it self is about $499. You wouldn't really need to add anything else to the lift kit. I ran that lift and everything it came with, with 35s and nothing else for a while. It rides fine for a DD, but it is a short arm lift. If you run the Transfer Case drop that comes with the kit, you will not need a longer drive shaft. If drive line vibrations do occur, then a slip yolk eliminator and longer drive shaft will be needed. You can get the kit for $525. If you can do all the labor then that's free.
If you can find a TJ that has a Dana 44 rear axle, that would be strong enough for mall crawling and running 35" tires, and you guys could re-gear it to 4.56 or 4.88's, depending on the transmission. (auto - 4.56, manual - 4.88). You want to try and avoid a Dana 35 rear axle as it is not strong enough if someone does decide to wheel it, and it is just plain weak. You can strengthen it by adding a Superior C-Clip Eliminator Kit. Re-gearing will bring the ratio closer to stock, and improve gas mileage significantly. I run 35s with 4.88s and I get 16-18MPG on highway. The Dana 30 front will handle the 35s fine for a daily driver.
A steering linkage is next to improve safety and strength. I run a Currie Steering set up, very strong but is about $400. Crown Automotive and Rugged Ridge also makes a strong steering setup I believe for under $200.
Upgrade the brakes to heavy duty pads to ensure good stopping power.
No sure what the tire coverage laws are there, but stock flares are ok and would look fine. You can search Craig's List for a used set of 4-6" flares for tire coverage.
Tires - Pick a tire of your choice and preference. I run Toyo MTs and they are a very nice tire on the highway, they go for about $300/tire. They are loud at highway speeds. BFG All Terrains are a quiet tire on road that is excellent in all weather and highway. I have run both, and the BFG is smoother, but the Toyo's look good, and are great off road with the deep tread. Baja Claw TTC is a mean looking tire as well.
Rims - Pick a rim of your choice, a 15" rim will make the tire look bigger and also give it more side wall protection. I run a 15x10 with 4" backspacing built in, and it gives it a wider look IMO.
This is the basic just to get you up and running as a daily driver with little to no off-roading, hope it helps. Any questions feel free to PM me. I will be glad to help.
Some links for you:
Jeep TJ N2-Series Suspension Lift
Crown Automotive Part HDSTRGCR1 - Heavy-Duty Steering Kit without Stabilizer by Rough Trail for Jeep
Rugged Ridge 18050.82 - Rugged Ridge Heavy Duty Tie Rod Kit for 93-06 Jeep® Cherokee XJ, Grand Cherokee ZJ, Wrangler TJ & Unlimited - Quadratec
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tail Shaft Conversion Kits (you want the NP231 Kit for $525)
|08-27-2011 03:55 PM|
|08-27-2011 01:04 PM|
|darkproximity||It works.. I wheel with a guy who has that setup and while he wants an SYE and cv ds its still working for him|
|08-27-2011 01:02 PM|
Will work well for a mall crawler like the OP wants though.
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