|09-03-2011 06:06 PM|
|jk'n||The rear drive seal on the transfer case is not too difficult to change out. Got one at the dealer, wasn't that expensive. Already had the rear drive out. Pulled the seal with a seal puller. It was a little difficult to pull the seal because of the metal flange that surrounds it. The new seal with metal flange was pressed in using a seal driving tool. $10.00 at harbor freight. One of the seals I replaced I used a piece of ABS pipe to drive the seal in. Driving the seal in I used a rubber mallet. That worked well.|
|09-02-2011 01:55 PM|
|Tyewilly||It's the transfer case rear output seal. Pretty straightforward to change. Remove driveshaft, remove and replace seal, replace driveshaft. You'll probably lose a little fluid when you pull the slip yoke out, so be prepared to top off the transfer case with atf when you're done.|
|09-02-2011 10:23 AM|
I don't know about this specific part... but I know nothing is EVER easy when it comes to the Transfer case / Tranny / Lower Engine Seals
|09-02-2011 10:19 AM|
|jfbilbro||It's called a rear transmission seal. the mileage sounds about right, depending on your tire size and gearing|
|09-02-2011 09:24 AM|
Garyk what do you call the seal for the trans? Where the yoke goes into the trans? Also how hard is it to replace? Do you just drop drive line, pull old seal out & press new one in?
What does your jeep get as far as mpg? I'm only getting 14 from mine, before I put the new engine in I only got 13.
|09-01-2011 02:42 PM|
I don't think the IAC/TPS could cause a long time to start, as those are idling sensors. It might be a fuel pump.
|09-01-2011 12:28 PM|
|Garyk||You probably can get away with a seal on the trans. The high idle could be the TPS or IAC. TPS runs about $35, the pintle on the IAC can be cleaned with some electrical contact cleaner. If you use carb cleaner be very careful, it can damage the IAC ( I know). The long time to start could be your fuel pressure regulator or the fuel line is draining back at the pump or related to the IAC/TPS, try those first and see how it goes.|
|09-01-2011 01:14 AM|
All fluids were drained from both the transmission (gear oil) and the transfer case (ATF +4 transmission fluid). The front seal is behind the slave cylinder. Remove the slave, and the plate that holds the seal. I used a standard seal puller for all of the seals. After removing the front seal and replacing it, I used a product similar to form-a-gasket and replaced the plate. The transmission rear seal requires separating the transmission from the transfer case. The space between the transmission and the transfer case should be dry. On mine the transmission side had oil on it so I replaced the rear transmission seal. That one is just pulled and replaced. After replacing the rear seal and cleaning up the oil in the space on both the rear of the transmission and the front of the transfer case, I also cleaned the small drain hole at the bottom using a length of solid #14 copper wire I applied the form-a-gasket like sealer to the mating surfaces and bolted the transmission back to the transfer case. The seal on the rear output on the transfer case was just pulled and replaced. If memory serves me correctly, the seal on the front of the transfer case is on a metal plate similar to the front of the transmission. Currently my transmission and transfer case has been bolted back up to the engine after new clutch and pressure plate was bolted up. Tranny and transfer case are still empty but will be filled after I deal with a few other issues while the skid plate is down. The skid plate has been undercoated while it was off. When I pulled the transmission down I had to disassemble the the shifter tower and removed the shift lever. There is two boots that seal the shift lever and transfer shift from the outside. Below that at the top of the shifter tower on the transmission is a rubber cap that keeps dirt and water from getting into the transmission through that orifice. Mine was cracked and there was quite a lot of sand that had gotten into the top of the shifter riser which took me a while to thoroughly clean out. The transmission oil on mine looked like it hadn't been changed since it was new and it has 95k original miles on it. The transmission oil also looked like it had some water in it. When I fill the transmission, I am going to use some cheap 30 weight oil and run that for about a week driving it back and forth to work and then drain it and put the normal gear oil in it. I am not sure what contaminants had gotten into it from the top leaking rubber cap and want to give the transmission a chance to flush itself out and thus the reason for running a cheaper lighter weight for a week. I'm hoping to be able to drive it next week.
It will be a lot of work to change those seals out and you will have to bleed the oil linkage line out before the clutch will work right after breaking the line to pull the transmission. If you want to stop the leaks, you will have to bite the bullet and pull the transmission. Might be an opportunity to replace the clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder while it is apart. I got those three pieces from NAPA for just over $400.00 in a "kit". The kit also included a new pilot bearing. That required a special puller to get out of the fly-wheel.
|09-01-2011 12:32 AM|
92 YJ Tranny & High Idle
I have a 92 that I just put a new 2.5 in and I have noticed that where the drive line goes into the tranny it has been leaking it has thrown it all over the bottom of the tub. Is this just a seal that need to be replaced? If so how hard is it to change, and what is it called?
I also had one other issue when you try to start it it takes it a while to start, its like it isn't getting enough fuel, but when it does start it runs fine, although it idles at 1000 rpm is this normal? If not how do I slow the idle on it?