|09-07-2011 10:04 PM|
|jk'n||I found out a little more information today. On the pre-loading, he thought I was talking about the other end of the drive...at the differential. When I said I was talking about the yoke at the output of the transfer case he said oh, just torque it to spec and done. Whew, I thought I had gotten myself into another can of worms! Cancel that!|
|09-06-2011 11:08 PM|
|09-06-2011 10:53 PM|
Original Replacement Parts D35-YOKE-U - Heavy Duty U Bolt Yoke Conversion Kit - Quadratec
|09-06-2011 09:56 PM|
I talked to one of the guys at work and he mentioned something about pre-loading on the output shaft and asked if I marked the position of the nut on the shaft. Of course I didn't. I assumed I would be able to put it back into place via proper torque. What is the procedure?
|09-06-2011 07:42 PM|
|Nutthouse3000||Did it while on the jeep. Only cause I didn't have all that cool stuff to stabilize it if I'd taken it off.|
|09-04-2011 09:06 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||sounds like some good tools to have^ haha. You gota improvise alot of times with these beasts.|
|09-04-2011 08:55 PM|
I got a set of easy outs today. $10.00 at the local Auto Zone. I drilled on the broken bolts. The bolts wouldn't budge with the easy out. I suspect that, since the bolt broke because of binding, they were held in place too well for use of the easy out. If the bolt had broken from over torquing, the threads would still be free spinning and the easy out would have worked. I drilled progressively larger until I reached tap size on both bolts. Then tapped the hole. I'll have to wait until Tuesday to get a new seal for the yoke.
The lesson that I learned from this is that the next time I have any binding on assembling parts, I'll run a tap and die on them to eliminate the binding. I got a set of thread restoring tools from Sears and there is just about everything in there that I'll probably run into. I used them on the skid plate bolts and anchors. I'll be able to thread them in by hand now. Getting them out required a lot of patience.
The yoke seal had a lot of caked in sand and gunk behind it. Glad you suggested above to remove it. I cleaned it all up and hopefully with new oil in the transfer case, the output bearing will be OK.
|09-03-2011 11:15 PM|
And the joy!
Got two jeeps. Love em both. Although, I'll love the YJ a lot more when it can haul me round town.
|09-03-2011 11:11 PM|
|09-03-2011 10:57 PM|
yeah, project jeep must be nice. Mine is my DD, so when its done I don't go anywhere unless someone lets me borrow a car (thank goodness I am trusted haha). It's awful not being able to drive them though. Goodluck finish getting it running.
|09-03-2011 10:53 PM|
Thank God that this is a project jeep and not my DD. I bought it in December of 2010 and it hasn't been on the road since. The clutch was slipping and I replaced it. Now I'm trying to get it back together and it has been one challenge after another. I have done some cleaning up as well. Once the transmission is back up, I'm hoping that it will be a while before I have to take it back down. I replaced some seals on it because there were some signs of leaking. I'm hoping it is dry on the outside after the tranny and transfer case are filled with fluids.
|09-03-2011 10:41 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Haha don't you love when a little project gets this big and sucky... hahaha. I know I don't. glad you got it all worked out man|
|09-03-2011 10:36 PM|
Update: I got the yoke off. This whole clutch replacement has been quite an experience. To get the yoke off of the output shaft on the front of the transfer case I had to undo the other saddle clamp - and guess what happened. Yup, you guessed it...I broke another of the bolts. Now I have two to remove tomorrow. The good news is that I did get the yoke off without breaking anything else. That is the good news. The not so good news is that based on what I see on the seal that mates with the yoke surface, that will have to be replaced. There are two seals there, one for the place where the spline ends too. The way that I got the yoke off was putting a pipe wrench on the flat part of the yoke and torquing against that. The nut size that holds the yoke on is 1-1/8". It took a pretty good effort to get the nut off.
I didn't have any sockets big enough to go up to 1-1/8" so I took the opportunity to get a Craftsman set of sockets and 3/4" drive. The first 3/4" socket drive set that I have ever owned. I could have bought a large drive for my 1/2" drive set but I figured that the torque required to break loose the nut on the yoke would be too much for it. After having removed the yoke I would say that if I had applied that kind of torque on the 1/2" drive, it likely would not have survived it. Choosing to torque against the yoke was the correct way to go now that I have the pieces apart.
My next question is will the yoke be replaceable if I have trouble getting the bolts out?
|09-03-2011 06:58 PM|
|jk'n||Take the yoke off or did you do it while it was on the jeep?|
|09-03-2011 06:54 PM|
|Nutthouse3000||Had the same issue. Easy out worked fine for me.|
|09-03-2011 05:53 PM|
|jk'n||How do I get the yoke off of the transfer case? I'm thinking that I have to put a wrench on the yoke itself and torque against that instead of the shaft of the transfer case output lest I screw up anything in the case. That about right?|
|09-03-2011 05:12 PM|
And the answer is......my jeep is a MONGREL!
The PO of my jeep is my neighbor. He is more of a mechanic than me as I have spent my life in the study and practice of electronics. He took one microsecond look at the hardware and declared them both ANSI. After that it was easy as I wasn't assuming because most of the stuff I've found has been metric that these too were metric.
The u-join bolts were 1/4 - 28 and the bolts holding the skid plate are 1/2 - 13. Now I can confidently run a tap in and clean up the threads without worrying about making more of a mess than I already have with the busted bolt.
|09-03-2011 03:34 PM|
Here is an update. First thanks for the replies above. There is not enough bolt left for vice grips, that was the first thing I tried when it broke. Craftsman makes a power out bit and bolt removal tool that I think I'm going to give a try before drilling and easy out. The bolt is pretty accessible on the yoke. The more I ponder this, I'm thinking of taking the route that 1995yj318 suggested. Having the yoke off of the transfer case will allow for careful drilling in better light.
Some other information I'm finding out as I get into this. These bolts that bolt into the yoke are difficult to get in so the first thought that occurred to me after I get the busted bolt out is to run a tap in the hole and a die on the bolt. Problem is that evidently Chrysler, in their infinite wisdom, chose a 6mX.9 thread for this application. I have looked all over the local Kingdom to find a tap and die and there are none that I could find. The standard seems to be 6mX1. Some good news is that I was able to find the exact replacement bolts in a universal joint repair kit at Pep Boys Automotive. So, at least if I get the broken one out, I'll be able to bolt up the drive shaft.
While I'm on the subject of bolts and threads, I measured up the skid plate bolts that bolt into the frame. They look like the originals and they have the same issue as the bolts on the u-joint. They are pretty seized up. The diameter seems close to 12 mm but the pitch doesn't quite match up to 2mm. It isn't 1.75 either. is it possible that it is also an odd ball at 1.9? I did try matching it up to SAE but nothing matched there either. I was going to try and clean the threads up before running the bolts back in. Any help there would be appreciated.
|09-03-2011 02:57 PM|
|yjdad||Did you try removing all of the other u-joint bolts and taking the driveshaft back off? There is probably enough bolt shank left to grab onto with a pair of vice grips. If that doesn't work, a drill, an easy-out and some carefully placed heat are your only options.|
|09-03-2011 10:21 AM|
|barjeep||if there is any thing to grab a hold of try the bolt out ihave had good luck with them.|
|09-03-2011 10:16 AM|
|1995yj318||remove the yoke and clamp it in a drill press center punch it and drill it with a small bit then keep moving up in bit size till you almost hit the threads then try the easy out. just don't break of the easy out.|
|09-02-2011 10:27 PM|
Busted U-Joint Saddle Bolt...Suggestions?
Ok, I did something stupid (with my son's help) and now I need to recover from my blunder and teach my son what to do when this happens. He is 16 and was manning the wrench when the bolt broke....doesn't realize his own strength. It was really my fault because I should have run a tap in to clear the threads and a die on the bolt. That would have made putting the drive shaft back up on the transmission easy. Now I have a broken bolt to remove. In the past I have drilled them out but this is a more critical application. I'd like to back it out. I was on the sears site and saw that they have power out bolt removers, do they work? Or should I use and easy out? Any suggestions?