|01-20-2014 07:07 PM|
|yomondo||Sorry lysol, I don't know the answers to your questions.|
|01-19-2014 08:52 PM|
|01-19-2014 10:48 AM|
Also, I want to be able to pull the fabric up in the back of the seat where the map pockets are. Can I at least pull that part up? Is there a zipper or something back there?
This is the area that I'm referring to in the back (I'm planning on installing lumbar support if I can peal the fabric up high enough):
|01-12-2014 01:12 AM|
|01-11-2014 04:53 PM|
After leaving my seats on TWICE and needing to be jumped TWICE, I finally fixed my wiring. (Again, this is on my 2012 JK Sahara.) I had originally wired the hot lead to the 12V plug that's within the arm rest. This is not a switched power supply and is always on. Whoops. To rewire, I tapped into the 12V outlet near the climate controls. This was trickier than I anticipated - nothing like yomondo's writeup.
To remove the climate control panel, I needed to also remove the dashboard that surrounds the gauges and radio. For the sake of completeness to my install, and to satisfy my OCD, here are the steps I took to get behind that climate control panel.
Removing the climate control panel on the 2012 JK Sahara
1. Remove the small tray on top of the dash. Under this is a screw, remove.
2. Under the steering wheel is a 'U' shaped cover. It's held in with clips and can be removed by pulling from it's top and working your way down.
3. This will reveal two screws at the top of the 'U' - one on either side of the steering wheel, remove them.
4. Remove the window switch assembly. This was a bit tricky but it's only held in with some clips. I gently pushed a small pry bar under the bottom edge to lift it out. Be careful to not damage your dashboard! A plastic "spudge" tool might be better.
5. Once loose, you need to unplug the switched. This plug is held in place with a red sliding lock - just like the ones on your doors. (You have removed your doors before, right? )
6. Under the switches you just removed, there's another screw, remove.
7. The top dash can now be removed. Start on the left and pull it straight towards the back of the car (the clips are parallel to the ground). i inserted my fingers into the vent to get a better grip. Work your way around to the radio and you should be able to remove this with little trouble. Try lowering the steering wheel for more clearance.
8. This now exposes two large tabs that are on the top of the climate control panel. Grab the top of that panel and pull. That's it!
I also removed the center console (the part that surrounds the shifter, etc) and the small panel that has the mini cargo net. To get to the heated seat power wires, I also had to remove the passenger seat - I probably could have avoided this. Oh well.
The plug for the 12V outlet looks like this:
Only two of those have wires: the bottom is ground, the other is hot power - tap into that.
Sorry for the lack of pics! Best of luck!
|01-03-2014 04:36 PM|
|01-02-2014 11:47 AM|
I ended up extending the switch wiring and mounted below the window controls. Looks great!
Btw. These seats get HOT!
|01-02-2014 07:08 AM|
|01-01-2014 10:49 PM|
I just finished installing on my 2010 JK. My wife's 2013 JKU already has factory heated seats.
|01-01-2014 02:45 PM|
|01-01-2014 02:43 PM|
Also did you do this on your wife's 2013? If so were there any differences with the interior redesign? Did she have seat airbags?
|01-01-2014 01:30 PM|
I took the liberty of converting Yomondo's tutorial into a PDF. I did this mainly for myself as it is easier to read on ipad this way and it makes it easier to print out if needed (sometimes I like to take notes as I am installing things with lots of steps)
anyway, thought I would share it in case anyone else wanted it.
|01-01-2014 12:40 AM|
|12-31-2013 10:54 AM|
|12-31-2013 10:10 AM|
|flyfish29||Anyone do this on JK seats with airbags? Any issues or precautions?|
|12-31-2013 08:59 AM|
|jeffs24||I ordered mine from CorbaHeat.com on 12/25... due to arrive today!|
|12-24-2013 12:34 AM|
|rd3i||I purchased mine from Amazon - they were sold by a third party called CobraHeat LLC. Looks like you can buy them directly from their site http://www.cobraheat.com. They show up on the top-right as one of their Top Sellers; $85.|
|12-23-2013 05:21 PM|
|yomondo||I believe I got mine from Jegs about 3 years ago, and I think I paid $82 or $83 for them.|
|12-23-2013 05:03 PM|
|12-23-2013 04:53 PM|
|12-23-2013 04:47 PM|
|Chrimbler||I have Wet Okole neoprene covers. Would seat heaters put out enough heat to go through the seat cloth and the covers, or should I just put them under the covers?|
|12-23-2013 04:25 PM|
|wassup8687||Where are you guys getting the seat heaters from?|
|12-23-2013 03:16 PM|
|rd3i||Small update to my previous post. The 12V outlet within the arm rest of the 2012 JK is NOT switched power. It's always on. For now I'll just have to remember to turn off the seat heaters when exiting the car. Luckily I will only need to pull up the center console to reach the power wires to re-route them to the dash.|
|12-22-2013 09:44 PM|
|12-22-2013 09:33 PM|
|12-22-2013 07:16 PM|
I just completed this mod on my 2012 JK Sahara. It took me about 6 hours - which is much longer than I anticipated. I got hung up on a few areas, details to follow.
I will describe any differing changes by noting the original step numbers in yomondo's original post. By the way, yomondo, you rule. Your post was super detailed and exceptionally helpful. Thanks!
1. My WarmSeats kits looked exactly the same. When unplugging your seats, you only need to unplug the "master" plug. That is, there's only ONE connection between the seat and the chassis. The other plugs under the seat can be left alone. My passenger seat had a larger yellow plug, compared to the black/gray plug on driver's side.
6. I used an 18" torque wrench to give me the leverage I needed to undo the seat bolts. The wrench is max rated at 75lbs and this was sufficient to loosen all bolts.
9. The outside sides of each seat also had a black zip tie, helping keep the fabric on. I cut this and did not replace. Seems OK so far. You can see it in this picture of my driver's seat on the right side, just inside the seat cover. (oriented NNW - SSE)
12. I used two pair of needle nose pliers to manipulate the C rings. Wasn't too bad, but would have been easier with the right tool.
13. The seats already had a hole! Centered, at the very back. Was plenty large to fit the plug/wire. (My index finger fit easily.)
15. When sliding the pad under the passenger seat cover, be mindful of the occupant pressure sensor (used by the air bag system). I place the heating element above the sensor. The sensor's wire also went through the existing hole in the foam.
19. The driver's seat also has an adjustment lever that needs to be removed. Simply pop off the center cap with a screw driver. Then, use a T40 and unscrew - it helps to hold the handle to prevent it from moving during loosening/tightening. Once removed, you can easily pull the seat cover over the mechanism.
21. When sliding the pad up the seat back, I found it easier to place my hand,
palm up, between the pad and the foam. This allowed me to keep some space between the pad and the foam within the seat, sliding it easily right to the top.
23. #@*&!!*&%$#! This part cost me time and some skin. Manipulating the seat back fabric was incredibly difficult and time consuming. I cut myself twice and had to open another beer to cope. Getting the front and back fabric to reconnect was painful. I ended up using a screwdriver-sized nail puller to help "hook" the plastic clip and pull. As always, the second seat was a bit easier than the first.
25. I still haven't zip tied the wires. I think I'll be able to do this at a later date.
27 - 30. Holy center-console-batman. I wasted a ton of time here, trying to get the console loose enough for me to install the switches. I wish my console disassembled like the OPs. Hopefully these instructions help:
a. Remove the two T30 Torx screws located on either side of the console, towards the back. You will have to slide each seat forward to see them.
b. Remove the shift boot. It has clips to the rear of the car and forward pointing hooks/tabs pointing forward. Therefore, grab that sucker on the rear and pull up to disengage. You did remove the shift knob first, right? Get the 4wd selector knob too, while you're at it.
c. Loosen the forward portion of the center console. This part contains the cup holders and trim surrounding the shifter and 4wd selector. This is done by grabbing either side (left and right) and pulling up until the clips become undone. Work from forward to back or vice versa.
d. Lift the forward portion slightly to reveal two additional T30 screws on either side of the console. They're about 5 inches back from the front of the console.
e. This next part was difficult. Remove the forward portion of the console by wiggling, twisting, bending (slightly), and shimmy-ing. It helps to pull the e-brake up as high as possible. Having the entire console (forward portion and main portion) loose during this was helpful. Not sure if it was necessary, but I also removed the center console "net", located just in front of the shifter. I did this by hooking a screwdriver into where the net disappears into, on either side, and pulling. There are clips on the top edge, and tabs on the bottom. Pull back and lift out.
f. The center console should now be quite loose and you should be able to lift the rear about 6-8 inches high. This was enough for me to look up and inside and reach the necessary wires.
31. I decided to place my switches on the front side of the arm rest - just above the cup holders. I felt this was convenient since there is switched power for the 12V plug inside of the console. I used a 3/4" wood drill bit and then expanded the holes slightly with my Dremel and roto-bit.
There is one bundle of 4 wires (red, black, green green/red), running up the passenger side of the console, which feeds both the Aux 120V outlet and the inside 12V socket (in the arm rest). I pulled off some of the tape and then used a quick-splice connector for one seat. Another quick-splice connector completed the job. Ground wires were mounted where OP placed them. I secured the red/black power wires with some black tape every 6 inches or so to help keep them orderly.
That's it! Hopefully these extra steps for a 2012 JK help you guys.
|03-03-2013 07:07 PM|
|03-03-2013 05:16 AM|
WarmSeats Waterproof Seat Heater Installation
|03-03-2013 04:49 AM|
he was talking about the switches that are waterproof
13/16" (21mm) Waterproof Switch Cover
This is a clear plastic cover for 13/16" (21mm) round switch. Cover snaps on and offers protection from the elements. It only covers the top of the switch.
13/16" (21mm) Waterproof Switch Cover
waterproof-switch-coverRetail: $2.00Sale Price: (You save: 10%)
|12-10-2012 10:47 PM|
If you're referring to the switches, where did you mount yours? I've seen people post up about mounting their switches in the coin tray facing up. I can see how that location and orientation can easily catch water if rained on even lightly.
If you're referring to the relay under the seat, I suppose in heavy rain, especially if the floor gets flooded, some water may find its way in there, and possibly blow the fuse or kill the relay.
I haven't had any problem with my setup yet, even after several light and heavy rains.
Nice to hear at least that they took care of you under warranty.
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